Help Please

[Gravel-Hounda 0]

Hi all.

Won these off a local trading site, 1st edition Brat/Ford Ranger wheels and tires. They're for my 'basher Brat', don't want to destroy my "pretty Brat". I just want to know why the rears have slots in them (top wheels in pic) I can't seem to figure out what the slots are for. I've got them on my 'basher Brat' at the moment, but haven't run it yet.

Might look at trading them for a set of "rad2rads" alloys for my 'pretty Brat' if any one interested in a set of 1st edition Brat/Ford Ranger wheels and tires. PM me. Have replaced the two 'not so good looking' tires with two near new ones.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers'

Del

[terry.sc 16]

The slots will be there because someone has tried to fit them on a different chassis with a shorter axle, so instead of using the 5 spoke disk adapter they have slotted the wheel so it can be used the wrong way round, the slot fitting over a pin in the axle.

[Gravel-Hounda 0]

The slots will be there because someone has tried to fit them on a different chassis with a shorter axle, so instead of using the 5 spoke disk adapter they have slotted the wheel so it can be used the wrong way round, the slot fitting over a pin in the axle.

Cheers' terry.sc

That sounds logical. But why? These wheels would look stupid the other way round. Also hard to get them centred and sitting right now. Nevermind, it's only for my 'basher Brat' anyway, and what's wrong with a couple of wheels coming off, would make for great video footage lol

Cheers'

Del

[terry.sc 16]

That sounds logical. But why?

If you have a different buggy or truck at the time, for example an RC10 which just uses a cross pin, and you want to fit the wheels on the wheel will need a slot. If you don't have access to any machining equipment (no Dremels back then!) it would be difficult to cut a slot in the rear of the wheel while relatively easy to cut one in the front part. So the front gets the slot.

[WillyChang 1814]

how far back when?

Dremel predates Tamiya by, oh i dunno, 20yrs or so?

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/misc/history/Pages/default.aspx

[terry.sc 16]

Dremel predates Tamiya by, oh i dunno, 20yrs or so?

Did you have one in the early 80s? It was certainly something I hadn't come across then.

Even 10 years ago they were still seen as an 'industrial' tool, I remember paying over £100 for one for work use in the mid 90s, the same style is now available for a quarter of that price. Now the price has come down so much everyone has one and their copies are as cheap as anything.

[WillyChang 1814]

yea dad did... was using it when doing mods to Kyosho Scorpion Beetle so that'll be early 1980s.

Unit had rotary speed dial on the blunt end; dad also had the drill press attachment - still does.

Before Dremel i used to take my projects to my grandpa's office and use his tools to cut/grind... he was a dentist, see...

Hi-speed drill was fast, he also had a foot-pedalled belt-driven slower speed drill which i found to be better fun/control.

For heavier-duty grinding his resident denture maker had some chunkier machinery too.

Current setup is a 200 series hung high up with flexy wand extension handpiece... just like childhood, no need to evict patients.

[Gravel-Hounda 0]

yea dad did... was using it when doing mods to Kyosho Scorpion Beetle so that'll be early 1980s.

Unit had rotary speed dial on the blunt end; dad also had the drill press attachment - still does.

Before Dremel i used to take my projects to my grandpa's office and use his tools to cut/grind... he was a dentist, see...

Hi-speed drill was fast, he also had a foot-pedalled belt-driven slower speed drill which i found to be better fun/control.

For heavier-duty grinding his resident denture maker had some chunkier machinery too.

Current setup is a 200 series hung high up with flexy wand extension handpiece... just like childhood, no need to evict patients.

So can I flatten off the slot with a dremel so that the wheel nut goes completely on? Or are those rear wheels now ******ed? I hope not `cause I really want to use them on my 'basher Brat' Don't really want over-use my "pretty Brat"

Cheers'

Del

[BiggusDitchus 38]

Why would you have to do anything to get the nut to fit? All the previous owner has done is cut a slot into the wheel, if you fit the wheel to the Brat the correct way round you should still have plenty of thread to get the nut on.

[terry.sc 16]

Just fit the wheels on as normal, put a washer between the wheel and nut to prevent the nut digging in to the wheel.

[Gravel-Hounda 0]

"Why would you have to do anything to get the nut to fit? All the previous owner has done is cut a slot into the wheel, if you fit the wheel to the Brat the correct way round you should still have plenty of thread to get the nut on".

Biggus.

The nut does not fully go on. So either the Brat and Frog have different length axles, therefor what I have is an old Frog chassis. Which I might add was listed as a Brat chassis. Comparing my re-re Brat to the "so called" old skool Brat chassis, the thread sits 'flush' with the outside of the 'nylock' nut on the re-re. Where-as the thread on the 'old skool' chassis is half-way through the 'nylock' nut. Not really holding as well as it could. I know I could use two flat nuts to create a lock-nut type of set up. But that's just two extra nuts to undo, and that's not 'cool' out in the field.

Cheers'

Del