Kyosho Screw Cement / Screw Locking Compound

[Live Steam Mad 17]

Hi, I am trying to get hold of Kyosho Screw Cement like it shows you to use in the manual. I can't find any for sale at all in TC, Ebay, or web.

Where do I buy this stuff from?

Or if I can't, what can I use as an exact or almost exact replacement?

Did Kyosho simply rebadge someone else's screwlock compound ?

Anyone ? Help

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[WW-nut 0]

Never built a Kyosho, but can't you just use Tamiya threadlock?

[Turbojoe 0]

Hi, I am trying to get hold of Kyosho Screw Cement like it shows you to use in the manual. I can't find any for sale at all in TC, Ebay, or web.

Where do I buy this stuff from?

Or if I can't, what can I use as an exact or almost exact replacement?

Did Kyosho simply rebadge someone else's screwlock compound ?

Anyone ? Help

Cheers,

Alistair G.

Try using blue Loctite LINK.

Joe

[terry.sc 16]

Where do I buy this stuff from?

You didn't as far as I know, it just came in the little tubes in the kits.

Everyone just used Tamiyas threadlock, and all threadlock in r/c car kits is just rebadged and repackaged Loctite threadlockers.

If you want a colour match then you'll have to go for Loctite 290 because it's green, but it is much thinner and is designed to be added after everything is assembled. If you want a threadlock that acts the same as Kyoshos then use Tamiyas threadlock as it's the same type, just a different colour.

[Live Steam Mad 17]

Never built a Kyosho, but can't you just use Tamiya threadlock?

Because it's very messy (turns into strings LOL) and doesn't seem to penetrate onto the threads as it's viscosity is not low enough so I can never be sure that any has actually gone onto the threads so I always end up putting the stuff on the end of the nut as well which makes the car look like it's got blue blobs on it And when I do finally use it like I did on my Top Force , the screws in the bottom of the chassis (the countersunk ones) were so tightly held by this stuff that the heads were completely destroyed when trying to remove them which was most annoying.

I went to using the Tamiya threadlock because a few years back I tried Loctite (bought in England, made in Ireland) in the blue tube and it didn't seem to hold the nut onto the bolt. Maybe I tried undoing it as a test, before it was hardened properly?

Anyway I dug it out again the other day and tried it and actually was quite impressed by the Loctite. Maybe it's aged in the tube and now cures faster? Can't have left it for more than 1 day (I think?) before I tried undoing the Loctite'd parts again. BTW it's an anaerobic adhesive and goes hard when there's no air. Which is odd since I thought it would therefore harden in the tube before you open the packet? LOL. Anyway now the same Loctite really grabs hold of the nut and I had to turn with moderate force on the 3mm non Nyloc nut for many many turns until it came off, just the perfect strength. I made sure to clean the threads first with White Spirit before I started - maybe that had a bearing on things? Anyway was very pleased, and it penetrates the threads very easily, it's quite runny. Goes quite hard when cured but not like concrete like the Tamiya one above does.

DOES this Loctite in the blue tube (blue runny liquid, general purpose Loctite threadlock) damage any plastics that anyone knows of? Anyone?

In future I am going to be using this Loctite in the blue tube from now on.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[OCD 514]

................................................

Good news, Tamiya replaced that old stringy stuff with this ^^

I've used quite a bit of it and it's a huge upgrade over the original blue formula. (This new stuff is red) Part number is #54032

HTH

-Steve

[Live Steam Mad 17]

Try using blue Loctite LINK.

Joe

Thanks. Mine is probably very similar if not identical formulation but my packaging and tube is completely different since it is Loctite UK sourced. Always interesting to see what they look like in USA.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[Live Steam Mad 17]

You didn't as far as I know, it just came in the little tubes in the kits.

Everyone just used Tamiyas threadlock, and all threadlock in r/c car kits is just rebadged and repackaged Loctite threadlockers.

If you want a colour match then you'll have to go for Loctite 290 because it's green, but it is much thinner and is designed to be added after everything is assembled. If you want a threadlock that acts the same as Kyoshos then use Tamiyas threadlock as it's the same type, just a different colour.

Ah so I'd have to buy a NIB kit to get one. A touch expensive LOL.

Yep I agree about the rebadging. Makes sense.

Colour match is not important for now (maybe I'll change my mind later on). Interesting you mention that Kyosho's threadlock in (all?!) their kits was green and same characteristics as Tamiya's. Funny I thought it would have been more like Loctite's since Tamiya's was a bit rubbish in certain respects that I have mentioned here earlier LOL.

Pity there is no Loctite that is green and like Loctite medium strength general purpose? Would be ideal for old Kyosho's.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[Live Steam Mad 17]

................................................

Good news, Tamiya replaced that old stringy stuff with this ^^

I've used quite a bit of it and it's a huge upgrade over the original blue formula. (This new stuff is red) Part number is #54032

HTH

-Steve

Wow cool interesting to see Tamiya have finally come to their senses and released a decent threadlock after all these years

Pity it's red Would have been better green so to match Kyosho's threadlock

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[Turbojoe 0]

Thanks. Mine is probably very similar if not identical formulation but my packaging and tube is completely different since it is Loctite UK sourced. Always interesting to see what they look like in USA.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

Glad it worked for you. I use it religiously on every nut and bolt on my helicopters. You don't need much. Just enough to wet the threads. Too much and it just makes a mess. A small tube should last for years on small items like our cars and helicopters. NEVER use the RED Loctite if you hope to ever get it apart again!!!

Joe

[Live Steam Mad 17]

Something I just noticed... I came to the end of the tube faster than I expected, which was odd but then again I had used it quite a bit in the past. There was about 0.75ml out of the 3ml tube contents that was like a light blue paste instead of a mid /dark blue runny liquid. Then I noticed a message on the back of the card packaging, it said " AT LEAST 50 PER CENT AIR SPACE IN [THE] TUBE IS NECESSARY TO KEEP THE CONTENTS FLUID" so I think I may have caused that?

But then I got to thinking about the last time I used it a few years ago and I seem to remember it being more of a light blue paste than a runny dark blue liquid...? Maybe that's why I had trouble with it... because it was already partially cured (the stuff that I was using). This was presumably either because I got a bad tube from a bad batch or because it had been stored in the wrong conditions (even though it was a brand new and unopened tube at the time).

This time around however it worked much better, it was a dark blue runny liquid, low viscosity. Maybe that's how it is supposed to be. Until I ran out and just encountered paste in the tube when I squeezed the last dregs out of the tube.

Also I see that Thunder Tiger do a green threadlock which is a Loctite equivalent. Presumably a good replacement for the Kyosho threadlock since it's the right color or maybe close to it. It was on Ebay USA with expensive shipping.

Now as I come to think about it, why is it that 3ml of this stuff costs 3 quid?! It was 2 quid last time I bought some, as well.

24ml of it costs 13 quid !!!

Why the heck is it so expensive? It can't be so difficult to produce, surely? Methinks you pay for the Loctite name...

I'll have a look into getting a generic threadlock, much cheaper (if there is one) and preferably green color and I'll report back here if there's any success. Needs to be medium strength, low viscosity. High strength stuff is apparently the stuff that cures in seconds and is basically permanent (you can't dismantle).

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[Live Steam Mad 17]

Threebond (Japanese but available worldwide) make green color CODED i.e. on the packaging, general purpose , " Medium Strength ", anaerobic threadlock (it says that 1300 series are High Strength on the website below, but the packaging says that 1360 is Medium Strength) ;-

ThreeBond TB1360 High Temperature

http://www.threebond.co.uk/PRODUCTS/ThreeB...10/Default.aspx

...because it is anaerobic it may attack plastics (I wish I knew which ones ).

It mentions that it is Medium Viscosity (I wonder what they mean by that i.e. really needs figures to back it up. Loctite 242 is 1000 CPS viscosity, Loctite 243 is 1200 CPS). Threebond 1322G is low viscosity which is preferable and it's Medium Strength, but I wonder what color it is? Surely should be the same color as 1360 as they are both Medium Strength?

The packaging shows 1360 to be Medium Strength here ;-

http://www.bikebandit.com/product/7848

Note the green triangle Strength / Color coding (which seems to indicate that the threadlock is green). The only other reason I know that it is green is because it says so here (also confirms that it is Medium Strength) ;-

%5burl="http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=nLsm5oluhuEC&pg=PA10&lpg=PA10&dq=Three+Bond+green+%22medium+strength%22&source=bl&ots=oH-4s_RhQ4&sig=9ASm6qXug0phE2NMJh1tOacKeAo&hl=en&ei=bmmQSu29LYOOjAf0otnnDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=4#v=onepage&q=&f=false" target="_blank">http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=nLsm5ol...;q=&f=false</a>

Note here that this book says Loctite 242 is low strength. Hence we really need figures here. Loctite's breakaway torque is 20Nm. Threebond's figures are harder to find. I found some here ;- http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/product/seri...g/1300list.html ...but I need details on the full line up, and their US website is useless in this regard and their UK website requires you to contact them for details. Which I probably will do in due course.

As a quick guide, 10ml of it is 3.50 GBP / 4.40 USD approx. Compared to Loctite which is 3 GBP for 3ml.

The above color coding seems to hold until you see other packaging featuring larger quantities of their product. For example ;- http://www.soprimadirect.com/boutique/fich...p;code_lg=lg_fr

...has a RED color coding!! What is going on here ? I think I will contact the manufacturer about this.

ThreeBond also make a NON-anaerobic threadlock (1401B) which is green in color and does NOT harm plastics ;-

http://www.threebond.co.uk/PRODUCTS/ThreeB...11/Default.aspx

...unfortunately this one is Low strength.

What I am looking for is this non-anaerobic green one in Medium Strength low viscosity...

Right I just contacted Three Bond in Japan and also their UK site, and I'll report back here with anything useful. LOL.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[Live Steam Mad 17]

I got an interesting and useful piece of information from a guy selling " Pro-Bolt Threebond Threadlock " on Ebay, he said "This Threadlock is Clear, medium strength and of low viscosity" which raises the possibility of merely adding a touch of green food coloring dye and there we go, a perfect replacement for the Kyosho Threadlock (as in, this one should work good). I hope the dye would not affect the effectiveness of the threadlock...

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[Live Steam Mad 17]

Well I got some Loctite 243 for other things for the time being, and it's very good, consistency is not too runny like my other stuff, it's slightly paste like but still runs nicely, just perfect. It's blue of course LOL. BTW I still can't understand why 3ml costs 3 quid?!

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[Live Steam Mad 17]

I actually finally got my hands on some original tubes of Kyosho Screw Cement . I got 4 tubes, the seller still has some available on Ebay. 2 tubes have a larger white cap, and 2 have a small red cap.

Pic's ;-

Cheers,

ARG

[Alecito 0]

I know that this is about thread lock, but anybody knows how can I do to remove this green kyosho threadlock ?

They use it for the optima mid. The usage is to bond the belt cover to the upper deck.

I;m restoring an Optima mid custom and I would like to know if I can clean it or if I have to go with a new one

Thanks.

[Live Steam Mad 17]

I know that this is about thread lock, but anybody knows how can I do to remove this green kyosho threadlock ?

They use it for the optima mid. The usage is to bond the belt cover to the upper deck.

I;m restoring an Optima mid custom and I would like to know if I can clean it or if I have to go with a new one

Thanks.

Have you got any e.g. PlusGas Dismantling spray / lubricant in your shed or something? I used that on an old car dynamo to crack the rust off the bolts and be able to undo them. It might just work on the threadlock?

You could use very hot water which may soften the threadlock? Unless your plastic parts are Thermosoftening plastic instead of Thermosetting plastic, in which case it will warp the plastic.

Any chemicals which eat and softens the threadlock may eat your plastic parts though...

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[OCD 514]

An old trick that works for me is to heat the screw head up with a soldering iron to soften the threadlock.

Can't say this would work if it's set in plastic though

-S

[Alecito 0]

An old trick that works for me is to heat the screw head up with a soldering iron to soften the threadlock.

Can't say this would work if it's set in plastic though

-S

Belive it or not, sometimes the easy way, is the best way...

during this weekend I tried to clean the lexan covers of the optima mid´s belt and I discovered that the alcohol works great to clean the green threadlock without any consequence for the plastic.

Also I used to remove the thread lock of the upper plate and it works.

Once I finished with the alcohol, I continued with regular dishwashing liquid and the result was great... almost like new without affecting any parts.

Bye.

[Live Steam Mad 17]

................................................

Good news, Tamiya replaced that old stringy stuff with this ^^

I've used quite a bit of it and it's a huge upgrade over the original blue formula. (This new stuff is red) Part number is #54032

HTH

-Steve

How strong is this Tamiya 54032 threadlock? I've tried Loctite 270 (Green, you will shear the head off a 3mm screw before it will undo) and Loctite 262 (Red, almost but not quite as strong, releases a 3mm nut from a 3mm screw with VERY hefty force and a Tamiya "Large" sized screwdriver), and Loctite 243 (Blue, easily undo-able with a small screwdriver like the blue handle Stanley one that I use for 2mm screws). Looking for something between 262 and 243...

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[Live Steam Mad 17]

OK so I bought some of the Tamiya AG Anaerobic Gel Threadlock and used it and it's quite useful for putting into holes where screws are going first into plastic and then onwards into metal, since it is a gel and does not flow so doesn't go back into the plastic along the threads by capillary action and ruin the plastic (most threadlock eats plastics).

It's strength is only about the same as Loctite 243, just slightly less.

Cheers,

Alistair G.