Wild Dagger Needs More Speed.

[RibTickler 15]

Well tried it out my Wild Dagger with 8 shocks on the road. I couldn't belive how slow it was compared to the Boomerang i just built and tried for the 1st time the same day.

So would an up grade to 2 x HPI GT 550 and 2 x 4500mAh NiMH ( don't want LIPO'S as i just made 6 x 6 cell NiMH packs ) and a 14.4v ESC make a difference?

If yes? Which ESC will do. No soldering if possible. Would the HPI GT ESC be OK? Or is there a cheap one out there? Must have reverse.

[backtomyroots 432]

The short answer is yes, the HPI ESC & 550 motors will give life to your Dagger. The Tamiya Dual ESC is only good for the Sport Tuned motors which may not make the big jump you are looking for.

Don't forget, you'll have to securely mount that second battery somewhere but there are chassis kits available to do that.

Here's much more info:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=40840

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=41343

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=44787

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=41184

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=40802

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=41222

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=41308

Good Luck !

[dannos85 0]

Thats looks Nuts!

I should have done it to mine, way back when..

I used an mtroniks dual esc on mine with brake/reverse light output.

Have a look on ebay for one, they're good but require soldering.

Traxxas evx or evx-2 are good too.

[Mad Ax 9312]

I've used the HPI GT speedo on my Dagger and it works a treat - it's a very good ESC. I was using HPI 550 motors (I think they're Titans but not sure) at 14.4v - the motors are extremely cheap, but you do need to reverse-time one of them otherwise it won't run smoothly. Basically you just need to dremel off the lugs, cut the solder on the capacitors, and turn the endbell in the right direction. Then crimp/solder/glue the endbell in place, resolder the capacitors, and you're done.

There is a method to work out where is 0* timed, and from there you can work out how far you need to retard the motor to get it to run properly in reverse for your front gearbox - problem is I can't remember what the method is.

Your 8-shock mod looks great - you'll definately need it for the extra weight of 2 battery packs! I had terrible trouble with the shocks being too soft on mine. What shocks are they, and where did you get them from?

Bear in mind that your outdrives / dogbones might not last long with 14.4v. Try to avoid CVDs - the torque might kill them. You can get HD outdrives from Tamiya (part number unknown) and tougher dogbones from Ho Bao - details are in this forum somewhere but I don't know where.

Avoid alloy suspension components - 14.4v torque is too much and will rip them apart.

Keep us informed - I'm currently dismantling my 14.4v Dagger because I found the torque was just too much, the gearboxes are Ok but the suspension components aren't really up to the task. My 14.4v setup is now in my Clod/TXT Hybrid

[RibTickler 15]

These are the shocks.

Link Removed - Please read the rules regarding live ebay links

On order i have

2 x HPI GT 550 1145

Ofna 17145 REAR DOGBONE EVO OFN17145

Tamiya TG10 Long Wheel Axle

Multi Wheel Widener Adapter Link Removed - Please read the rules regarding live ebay links

Do i need to do that mod to these HPI GT 550? Can't i just stick them in?

What about a better steering servo? or is stock fine? I have 2 spare. And what is a servo saver? Do i really need one?

[Mad Ax 9312]

I think the HPI motors are advance-timed - this means that they run faster in forwards than in reverse (also the brushes get damaged if you run for too long in reverse).

Because the Dagger has a reversed gearbox, you need to mod one motor to reverse-time it - otherwise you'll have one set of wheels turning faster than the other, which will upset the top speed and cause wierd handling. Re-timing isn't quite as hard as it looks - just take it steady and take your time. There's a thread on here about it somewhere.

If you're going to use wheel-wideners then you'll probably need a stronger servo. I'd say try it without first - I ran mine with wheel wideners and found it impossible to control with a stock servo. I modded mine to run two servos linked together which gives much more torque - sadly no pics as yet but I might put my chassis up for sale soon, so will take pics then.

A servo saver will stop the servo's gears from stripping in a big crash - I'd recommend you use one, especially if you're going with a stock servo with plastic gears. Kimbrough servo savers are very good.

Cheers for the shock link - might order a set for mine!

[RibTickler 15]

OK. Now i need a new :

servo

servo saver

and

stronger turnbuckles ( steering bars off servo )

But which ones? Cheap as poss please, but not if is just going to break quick.

[RibTickler 15]

Would this ( MG995 TowerPro Servo ) work with a Acoms AR-201 reciever?

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12832

[Mad Ax 9312]

The MG995 is a pretty good servo, I'm pretty sure it'll work with Acoms radio gear

[28yoKid 0]

I did the 550 thing with my old WD. Was a speed demon, but ate dog bones, and the torque damaged the screw holes where the gearboxes join the chassis. Was gonna invest in a alu frame but bought an erevo in the end. Have fun!