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Posted

Great comparison photos and links guys, thanks! I think I can live with the differences...haven't got a lot choice in any event!

tap tap tap.....still waiting for it...tap tap tap

Will go and play with a HOR while waiting :(

Posted
tap tap tap.....still waiting for it...tap tap tap

Will go and play with a HOR while waiting :)

That's an even more expensive habit than R/C I should think. :D

Plus, I doubt if anybody's wife would put up with a room full of those in the basement.

Posted
Doesn't this violate some sort of code for using HPI parts on a Tamiya car? :D

I felt the same way when it first dawned on me to try it.. I even waited two months and continued to pursue using the kit shocks, by toying with them in every possible manner.. I tried using the TRF shocks but the angle becomes to extreme and rub on the rear tyre. So I finally I gave installed the plastic ones that come in the HPI kit.. unfortunately they work 100% better than the SRB "improved" version in the 2010 kit.

Lynch me, tar me if you must.. :) but they work! The orange anodised top actually goes quite nicely with my BC orange and white paint motif - "ducking from the stones"

Posted
Doesn't this violate some sort of code for using HPI parts on a Tamiya car? :)

HPI used to make hopup parts for Tamiya cars once upon a time. I have this very nice HPI TA02 tub that I've based my TA02 rally car around. It has the battery up the middle like a DF03. Very nice balance with the battery that way and reduces body roll.

Posted
Great comparison photos and links guys, thanks! I think I can live with the differences...haven't got a lot choice in any event!

tap tap tap.....still waiting for it...tap tap tap

Will go and play with a HOR while waiting :)

hehe i think he means a kyosho 'hang on rider' or hor i have one to great bikes the man hangs of aruond corners!!

Posted
I doubt if anybody's wife would put up with a room full of those in the basement

he he, it's hard work keeping them quiet :) !

But yes, they are of course the Kyosho 1/8 RGV or NSR. I have 2 RGVs - one complete with all the hi-po mods done up like a Ducati 851 Superbike and another, which is not finished, that will be Kevin Schwantz box art, but with a 28BB motor.

Posted

Been following this thread for a while, and I've got to ask this question. I can understand buying a rere to build and run but why buy any more when you can buy an original for less money? Surely you would be better having an original as a shelfer instead of a repop particularly with the shell differences (which thanks to all the knowledgeable people on here are so well documented).

Posted
... I can understand buying a rere to build and run but why buy any more when you can buy an original for less money? Surely you would be better having an original as a shelfer instead of a repop particularly with the shell differences ...

rere to build and run ... true

buy original for less money ... false ... if you see it from the point of view of having to break into the blister packs and assemble new parts ... pure heaven :)

having an original as a shelfer instead of a repop particularly with the shell differences ... true ... as i think most of us here do have that and will keep the original as a shelfer ...

-------------

on another note, as since most places have sold out, can I assume that the first batch have actually been sold out and so the next time i see some availability, that will be the second batch with the cage amendments???

still do not comprehend why that became a slight annoyance ...

can some one check in the ss 2010 manual that the rear cage has the code ... 19335554 ... which is the code for the rear cage for the buggy champ 2009 ...

had a look at the olde rr and ss and they both look to be using the same rear cage though not verifiable as no part number provided in those manuals

Posted

Well here's mine, arrived yesterday from RC Mart.

Very impressed when I unwrapped it and feasted my eyes on the gorgeous box art, was a bit less impressed when I opened the box.

One of the UJs was missing from the blister pack and on closer inspection I found that the blister pack was not actually sealed down. I found the UJ bouncing around loose at the bottom of the box (as it must have been all the way from Hong Kong). This is slightly annoying for me as I was intending to keep this NIB. If the blister had been fine that would have been ok, if the blister had been sealed down but no UJ then that would have been great - a real one off, but as it is it is basically just an opened blister, which is not really what I wanted.

SandScorcher007.jpg

SandScorcher009.jpg

Had a quick look at the rear cage and I'm pretty sure it is a duffer one. I think whoever packed it also knows it is a duff one because there was a tear in the bag and the part of the cage with the hole on was sticking through the bag as if someone had pushed it through to examine it. The holes look appalling. I haven't compared it yet to me BC one but I can see straight away that they are in the wrong place.

SandScorcher010.jpg

SandScorcher011.jpg

I can only assume Homer Simpson is running the QC at Tamiya these days.

SandScorcher004.jpg

Very cool!

I've included a pic from the manual. Note it shows the rear light lens on the sprue as shaded which denotes "unused". :) As if Tamiya! I'm pretty sure that a whole heap of those lens are going to get used!

SandScorcher013.jpg

One last pic - of the bag. I can see Tamiya used a pic of the original to screen print the bag. You can see the Autohaus symbol on the nose cone.

SandScorcher027.jpg

So there we have it. A NIB SS with an opened blister pack and a torn parts bag. Bummer. But on the plus side I did get the shopping bag and the ESC and I have the satisfaction on knowing I have one of the very early ones :D

Incidently this is the first time I have ordered something like this from a Far Eastern seller and I must admit I was expecting it to be a Japanese market one but this is an English language one. How can I tell if this is a US market one of a European market one?

Posted

Olly , condolences on the blister issue but you could just glue it down? That's how they are secured at the factory after all. At least yours weren't torn like they were on my Buggy Champ! Obviously that quality control issue from 6 months ago still hasn't been fully nailed down.

Have you contacted the seller about the cage? They should have a replacement for you as Tamiya have issued them to all sellers who got a dud.

Posted

Anyone who bought these for an 'investment' (whatever that is?) and wanted it to stay perfect NIB for say 10 years is going to be disappointed if the glue is already coming undone, as glue degrades over time. I have kits from 1979 which haven't unglued yet.

The news isn't all bad though, as you can surely replace the rear cage, as it is in its own bag when shipped from Jason and UHU clear glue will seal that shut and it won't be visible ever, just use a clothes peg until it dries!

Paul.

Posted

Thanks Wandy. Am about to send a mail to Dinball about the cage. Can't forsee a problem as (if I've understood this correctly) Tamiya have sent out a load of replacements for the early ones.

Not sure what to do about the blister. I did wonder if I could glue it down. Maybe Prit Stick? But maybe it's not that big a deal, if they're all like that.

My BC blisters were cruddy too.

Obviously the blister forming machine is still a bit rusty from when Tamiya packed it away in the 80s.

Loaded, I hear what you're saying about the lack of investment potential in these modern kits but to be honest that wasn't really what I was looking at. I ordered this as soon as I heard about it and between ordering and receiving I realised that I didn't actually have any hankering to build one (I already have BC) so I was left wondering what I actually wanted one for. I'd pretty much decided to leave it NIB for the future. I've got a son who's already going to get a NIB Wild Willy 2 for his 18th (he's only 7) so maybe I'll save this one for his 21st! :)

I'm not really that bothered about the blister now, I was just a bit shocked when I saw the poor quality. I've had one guy tell me the same happened to him and he found the UJ inside the rear tyre after a long long search of the box!

Posted

Uhu clear, it is for plastic and paper and dries clear :)

I didn't mean you, about the investment, but some people have mentioned the word investment, as if by magic the Scorcher re issues will be worth $3000 in 10-20 years, but personally I don't see it. Wish 'em luck though :D

P.

Posted

Absolutely. I've only been in this hobby a couple of years but even I can see that modern day kits will never be worth what older kits are worth today.

I don't mean to take this thread in a different direction but would like to just quickly say that I believe old mint kits (e.g.Blazer) are worth a fortune because they came from an age where nobody considered the concept of investing them for the future and so a mint NIB really is a rareity. If someone had told me when I was a kid that my brand new Lunchbox or Stadium Blitzer would double in value in about 15 years time if I left it in the box then I wouldn't have believed them because the concept of that didn't really occur to me.

To get the thread back on topic I'll say that no, I don't think this re-re SS will ever be worth a fortune.

Posted
Doesn't this violate some sort of code for using HPI parts on a Tamiya car? :)

not really, i have a mid 90's HPI TA02 chassis conversion kit...

Posted
For those of you that want better shock dampening on your SRB, SS, RR/ buggy champ, I have found a good option..

These are for the HPI cup racer so they have skinnier bodies and fit the SRB very well. You will need to buy the 4 mm ball ends and 4 mm adjuster from HPI... they come in different lengths and you will need the longer ones in front

I just want to point out to purists, that F201 shocks can be made to fit fairly easily. They are smaller in diameter than standard touring shocks. I plan on fitting a set to a modified SRB in my future.

Cheers,

Skottoman

Posted

As far as an 'investment' goes, I dont think that comes into it with most people here.

The rerelease has given hobbyists a chance to have that NIB experience that they maybe couldnt have had before.Well, thats my opinion anyway.

Im sure Im not the only one that has been affected by the SS10 rerelease, its injecting the hobby with new enthusiasm.

For all those out there with the original Sand Scorcher, whether NIB. New built or in the process of restoration, I salute you. I'd love one.

But for now, as far as Im concerned, I love this SS10. I enjoyed buying it, bringing it home, opening the box, sniffing the contents, building it and soon to be running it. Thats what hobbies are all about arent they?

Cheers,

Steve.

Posted

I unboxed mine today, it's just too nice to dive straight in and start building, going to have to plan this one. Might even wait until we get our new house next month where I have a nice light workspace at the back of the garage to build it from.

Still looking for someone to do the shell in boxart for me. Any takers?

Posted
For those of you that want better shock dampening on your SRB, SS, RR/ buggy champ, I have found a good option..

http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/87597/

These are for the HPI cup racer so they have skinnier bodies and fit the SRB very well. You will need to buy the 4 mm ball ends and 4 mm adjuster from HPI... they come in different lengths and you will need the longer ones in front

Ball adjusters

http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/85282/

4.3 mm ball studs

http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/75116/

I just want to point out to purists, that F201 shocks can be made to fit fairly easily. They are smaller in diameter than standard touring shocks. I plan on fitting a set to a modified SRB in my future.

Cheers,

Skottoman

I have to admit that my F103 that I use for racing has after market parts to everything else except the chassis and front bumper ... but if someone decides to use their SRB (called a Racing Buggy is it not :) ) to race then I do not see any reason why not to upgrade their shocks

Do post any pics if anyone decides to install aftermarket shocks to their SRBs ... cheers

Will there any stock SRB racing anywhere in the UK now???

Posted

I fully intend to run my Buggy Champ at the Retro Racer buggy class at Hinckley when it starts again in the summer. Motors are limited to silver can so essentially stock.

It'll get thrashed by the Frogs, Hotshots and the Hornets but I don't care, I still want to run it so that I can tell the grandkids I use to race an SRB.

Retro Racers pics

Posted
I fully intend to run my Buggy Champ at the Retro Racer buggy class at Hinckley when it starts again in the summer. Motors are limited to silver can so essentially stock.

It'll get thrashed by the Frogs, Hotshots and the Hornets but I don't care, I still want to run it so that I can tell the grandkids I use to race an SRB.

Retro Racers pics

whatever hair i have on my back just stood on ends looking at that ... :) LOL ... looks like i have to get some after market shocks for my hotshot and i will be there ... 2 hrs drive for me from south of london though ... **** ... my rere hotshot is still a shelfer which will not be for long ... i think the video even showed a truck racing amongst them ... what a laugh !!! just absolutely wonderful ...

I am sure if there are a few of us with SRBs turning up ... they might just start a retro SRB series ...

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