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Posted

Could any members please share what make of paints they used on the Scorcher shell as I take it that it's still very hard to come across Tamiya TS paints still.

Posted
Could any members please share what make of paints they used on the Scorcher shell as I take it that it's still very hard to come across Tamiya TS paints still.

Haven't used them on a Scorcher, but I did use them to give a King Blackfoot a Scorcher look - Humbrol #14 French Blue Modellers Spray & #22 White Gloss Modellers Spray :wacko:

Posted
Could any members please share what make of paints they used on the Scorcher shell as I take it that it's still very hard to come across Tamiya TS paints still.

They are still available by buying them from Ebay. I got mine from an Ebay seller in Hong Kong. There was no problem with postage from HK to me in UK (NW England). I got TS8 and TS16 (red and yellow).

Cheers,

Alistair G.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
Just mine and im in UK, got it from time tune models. Looks good to me but no doubt it wont be fitted for months lol knowing me!

Probably build it up sooner to see how it feels. Not cheap so hope it works and lasts well really.

Do hope tamiya bring out some more cool hop ups to!

Just waiting on my SS bodyset now!

I have fitted the Tamiya ball diff to my re release Buggy Champ and it works well. It needs to be adjusted fairly tightly by rotating the rear wheel as explained in the instructions but once set up the limited slip function works. It makes a hard to drive car like the Buggy Champ/S Scorcher without a diff into a great handling vintage buggy. I have also replaced the standard Tamiya shocks with HPI Cup racer shocks and this helps handling and the shocks don't leak oil. The Tamiya Ball Diff is a must for the Buggy Champ/S Scorcher if you want to drive it on anything other than sand or other low traction surfaces. Thanks Ian

Posted
just built the ball diff and find it very notchy :lol:

its pretty hard to get it running smooth, unless the screw is fully tight.

Weird. I built one up the other night and it was very smooth.

- James

Posted
just built the ball diff and find it very notchy :)

its pretty hard to get it running smooth, unless the screw is fully tight.

Mine is very notchy as well ...

:lol:

I have taken it apart and built it again and still notchy.

Grummmble....

  • 7 months later...
Posted

Hey guys

Relatively new here, quick question(s) about my Re-Re SS with regards to painting body:

Does it require priming before paint, and how do you guys go about masking the body (e.g. the round lines on the bonnet)

I'm going with a relatively box art job, with pearl white instead of pure white.

Cant wait to start the build of this thing, opening the box was so exciting, reminded me of my teen years for sure. I've got a Tamiya Ball Diff coming, and a Tamiya 23T Super Stock BZ motor, do you think this motor will be ok for the SS, I was tosing between a Sport tuned and this.

I've got the same BZ in my Fox runner, and it absolutely halls with it.

Look forward to responses

Cheers

Posted
I've got a Tamiya Ball Diff coming, and a Tamiya 23T Super Stock BZ motor, do you think this motor will be ok for the SS, I was tosing between a Sport tuned and this.

I've got the same BZ in my Fox runner, and it absolutely halls with it.

Look forward to responses

Cheers

I fitted a Super stock TZ to my SS but never run it as the brush leads touch the aluminium gearbox housing. I was worried this would short out. I ended up going brushless instead.

Posted

Being cynical it's a limited run to generate interest and they keep it going whilever theres revenue being created. On a less cynical note there is always the chance tamiya struck a supply deal for a certain number of a component, after which they discontinue the model. The latter is rather unlikely though given tamiya support models with spare parts for years n years.

Posted

in the 2011 catalogue it is called a "limited vintage edition"

but that could mean it is limited to 5,000,000 units over 3 years . . . . . !

Posted

I wonder what the average daily sale rate is of the rough rider and sand scorcher - across the globe it must be double digits per day, so thats at least 4000 per annum, and probably a lot more ?

Posted
I wonder what the average daily sale rate is of the rough rider and sand scorcher - across the globe it must be double digits per day, so thats at least 4000 per annum, and probably a lot more ?

i guess alot more :lol:

Posted
What about masking tips, have any of you guys tried liquid mask? I bought some humberol liquid mask from my LHS, might give it a try

probably more trouble than its worth, if you're only doing a boxart scheme

gotta apply 3-5 coats of mask to build it up thick enough so its easy to peel off

need a steady hand to cut it using a super sharp blade... giving you 100001 opportunities to nick the underlying paint

tape is easier - doesn't need drying time, can be relied upon for a straight edge, cuts nearly as easily

Posted
probably more trouble than its worth, if you're only doing a boxart scheme

gotta apply 3-5 coats of mask to build it up thick enough so its easy to peel off

need a steady hand to cut it using a super sharp blade... giving you 100001 opportunities to nick the underlying paint

tape is easier - doesn't need drying time, can be relied upon for a straight edge, cuts nearly as easily

Ok, Cheers for that.

Maybe a combination of both tape and liquid mask. Tape the bulk of it, then liquid mask the round edges, going over the edge of the tape, pulling the tape up might lift the liquid mask off aswell? Thoughts?

Posted

Ok, another question regarding paint/finish:

Is there some kind of putty or something to use when fitting the nose cone to eliminate the gap between body and nose cone? Havent screwed mine on yet, but test fit seems rather ugly on the joint.

Posted
Ok, another question regarding paint/finish:

Is there some kind of putty or something to use when fitting the nose cone to eliminate the gap between body and nose cone? Havent screwed mine on yet, but test fit seems rather ugly on the joint.

You sure you want to fill it?

Box art shows a join there....on the finished model it represents the gap between the nose and the bonnet.

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