Need Some Drifting Set-up Advice Please

[taliesin 260]

I've got a spare TT-01 kit lying around and have decided to build a dedicated drift car and see how it goes. I've tried just banging a set of drift tires on a car and haven't been all that impressed, so I thought I'd give it a real try by building one from scratch.

First and maybe most importantly: should I lock both the front & rear diffs or just the back - the back only seems like the better choice, but I'm not sure.

Second: which of the following motors would be better? [mostly b/c I have them lying about ]:

1. sport tuned

2. gt tuned

3. super stock TZ

Third: other than aluminum prop shaft are there any must have mods? [naturally it will have full bearings, ESC and oil shocks]

Fourth: tires - I bought a decent looking pair of hard plastic drift tires with rounded edges, but don't know yet how they will work. Tamiya D spec drift tires blow goats. Any other brands you would recommend? Sushi Drift? Anybody tried them?

Fifth: how about the HPI D box [drift assist unit]? Is it worth the $90 or is it a gimmick?

I would appreciate any/all advice b/c I want to give it a fair shot. Obviously there will be some practice required, but if the car is set-up properly then I can decide honestly whether it is something I want to continue with.

[terry.sc 16]

1) Just lock the back diff. Set it with slight toe out on the front, with soft front springs and stiff rear springs.

2) Can't say, not tried any of them. Strangely enough a lot of drifters are using higher turn motors so the extra torque helps kick the back end out.

3) Alloy propshaft and some adjustable steering linkages so you can remove the standard toe in on the front will do.

4) Can't help with tyres, always stuck with home made PVC rings over old tyres.

5) The D-Box works by counter steering when your drift goes too far, so you don't spin out.

HPI has several videos demonstrating it on their website http://www.hpiracing.com/videoplayer/31/ http://www.hpiracing.com/videoplayer/32/

If you fancy trying one, save a bit of cash by getting the Futaba G190 instead, same gyro just a different label.

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

Well, I've tried out drifting with a TL01 and Tamiya's Drift 'tires.' It needed improvements in the setup, because I didn't even lock the rear diff for example, but I still got a reasonable impression of how these cars approximately respond. I think that the movie in which the DBox is shown is highly exagarated.

The result which they show without the Dbox is when you have rear diff locked, harder rear than front suspension, toe out on the rear and when turning in giving some additional throttle and justing keeping turning in instead of counter steering to reduce oversteer.

[floppydisk35 0]

To get more steering control during a drift, the front shock oil should be thicker than the rear

EDIT: At least that's what 1:1 drift cars do

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

To get more steering control during a drift, the front shock oil should be thicker than the rear

EDIT: At least that's what 1:1 drift cars do

The problem is that RC and 1:1 drifting is completely different. The shock oil thing you mentioned may apply (don't really know that ), but 1:1 drift cars often are RWD (or have most power on the rear wheels when 4WD) and the front wheels can steer way further (bigger angle) compared to normal cars and RC cars.

[taliesin 260]

What about gear ratio? Should I change the spur/pinion?

Which is more important - the low end grunt to get the tires spinning or lots of RPM to keep them spinning?

[WillyChang 1814]

stick with the stock 19 on 61 ratio, works fine for anything sportuned to silly brushless for D

i favour HPI T-Drifts in all their flavours; if in doubt which to choose go the slicks on any 26mm wheel

Tamiya Super Driftech suit 24mm wheels if that's all you have, they run the same

both are less grippy than Tamiya's Type-D, those grip too much for how we like it

ABS tyres are too much of a pain these days now with commercial offerings available; even the ones neatly machined don't go on as easy (or come off too easy) & never run true without some running-in. T-drifts & Driftechs will outlast several sets of ABS tyres.

[secretsg 0]

1 - Lock diff in the back and get the oneway for the front.

2- TZ. You need the extra power to kick the rear end out.

3 - Not sure with TT-01.

4 - If you prefer a real rubber then go with HPI T-tires with patterns. All other ones like Tamiya SD, Yokomo and regular T-drift are resin/plastic. Keep in mind the T-drift is 26mm and Tamiya SD are 24mm.

5 - Save your money. If you really want just get a cheap heli gyro (like this - http://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITEDHOBBIES...gital/Analog%29 ) for half the price of the "drift box."

Hope that helps.

I've got a spare TT-01 kit lying around and have decided to build a dedicated drift car and see how it goes. I've tried just banging a set of drift tires on a car and haven't been all that impressed, so I thought I'd give it a real try by building one from scratch.

First and maybe most importantly: should I lock both the front & rear diffs or just the back - the back only seems like the better choice, but I'm not sure.

Second: which of the following motors would be better? [mostly b/c I have them lying about ]:

1. sport tuned

2. gt tuned

3. super stock TZ

Third: other than aluminum prop shaft are there any must have mods? [naturally it will have full bearings, ESC and oil shocks]

Fourth: tires - I bought a decent looking pair of hard plastic drift tires with rounded edges, but don't know yet how they will work. Tamiya D spec drift tires blow goats. Any other brands you would recommend? Sushi Drift? Anybody tried them?

Fifth: how about the HPI D box [drift assist unit]? Is it worth the $90 or is it a gimmick?

I would appreciate any/all advice b/c I want to give it a fair shot. Obviously there will be some practice required, but if the car is set-up properly then I can decide honestly whether it is something I want to continue with.

[taliesin 260]

Thanks for the replies gentlemen. I think I will build the kit this weekend if time allows. I'm thinking about sticking a NIB Dyna Run Stock Racing Motor in it that I bought recently just to see what its like. I put a post up to see if it was anything special, but nobody has replied so I'm guessing it isn't anything super rare or anything.

The only thing I will have to upgrade later will be the adjustable steering links b/c I don't think I've got enough parts lying around to do it. I've got some adustable rods & ends for TL-01, DT-02 and a few others, but I may need to buy a NIP hop-up. Should only take a few minutes to refit them when they arrive.

I do have two more questions:

1. Is there any appreciable benefit to using better outdrives and CVDs for drifting or is it a minimal difference?

2. Is the upgraded steering assembly worthwhile on a drifter? I can see it making a big difference for racing or such, so I'm wondering if it is important when drifting or if the weight shift is the most important part rather than lack of slop in the steering?

[slydar 241]

the steering is worth getting. when drifting, youre constantly steering, thats basically what its all about, having a nicer steering set up will just make for more accuracy and more fun.

with a TT01, the front diff, just pack it full with grease. even an automotive type, just anything that is thick. this works well to "tighten" the front diff, which definitely helps it slide more predictably.

i wouldnt upgrade the dog bones etc.

on a TT, you want a steering set, maybe some toe in rear uprights (rcmart TT01R type, theyre like $3) an alloy prop, bearings and down to a 19t motor (which i can say first hand, will work with a teu101bk).

any further upgrades are wasted money really. the above set up will work and its fun, if you find its something youre into, you can get a TA05 or TB03 for not that much. and they need 0 mods to be 10x better than a TT. the TT suspension design is just a little too dated to ever perform any where near as well as tamiyas other tourers. plus they slop is massive and incurable really.

[TWINSET 1793]

Any idea what grease I'd need to lock a rear diff?

The diff is 'sealed' for grease, just not sure what thickness (weight?) I need to look for

[VinceVegaUK 0]

Hay all,

I have my TT01 with hop ups set up for drifting and i even drifted it with the D1RC drift team at Oulton park last weekend :-)

It drifted well and i out did a few of there drivers all be it they where staring out too. I noticed the Pro guys running carbon chassis and using HPI drift tyers ( a hard plastic/rubber).

Im using fully mouled ABS plastic wheel which work well enough but i found they where too slippy against the other guys on the HPI tyers so couldent get much speed up and if i started to slide backwards or was on a slight incline the speed bogged down. Other than this i usually blast it around works car park on a lunch break and practice drifts around some plastic cups. I also find the ABS wheels drift a bit better on carpet when i take it to my local club for a bash in-between races

The Car & Hop-Up's (most of the hop ups aren't necessary but it does work better with them, i bought them for my car when carpet racing but i use my TA05 now)

TT01 Chassis

Fully Ball Raced

Alloy Shaft

Metal knuckle uprights all round (only coz the plastic ones broke)

Adjustable upper arms (provides a little camber set up)

Anti roll bars

Alloy ball raced steering rack

Carbon Brace

UJ joints front (if you want to use a one way but i found it not as easy to drift with a front one way)

Swaped out the Pogo friction dampers with the plastic CVA oil dampers

Motor 19t Quad Reedy (not essential it was donated to me and is pritty quick with lots of torque)

BlueBird High speed high torque servo with high torque saver

Gears 18t metal pinion and a 62t Kyosho helicopter spur (this has one tooth less on the pinion and one tooth more on the spur than the normal Tamiya set up (i also put a small bit of left over moulding plastic wedged into the gap of the motor mount groove to keep the motor firmly fixed as there is a little bit of movement in it normally and it seams to let the gears sit better with these option gears)

Setup:

I got a very easy to handle setup quite quickly.

Rear Diff

If you have some spare sticky silver anti wear grease just pack the rear bevel gears in the diff with it (i had about 3 full pots lying around so i pack it to the brim with it (or Blue-tack))

Front Diff

just use normal tamiya diff grease so it spins nice and freely. A front one way just made the car really unpredictable and understeered alot when i really wanted it to turn in, swaping it for a normal diff fixed it.

Front dampers

Soft oil and springs

Rear Dampers

Hard oil and spring (if you don't have hard oil use less holes)

Anti roll bars

Hard Rear (blue)

Soft Front (Red)

Camber

0 front and rear

Toe

Rear: a little in (stock)

Front: 2 degree In for stability and will greatly improve straight line control a good starting point, 1 or 2 degree out for a quick flick drift action but seems very unstable going straight and you can loose the drift easily.

Wheels

Full moulded ABS plastic wheels (or get some ABS plastic pipe from you hardware store at the right diameter for your normal rims and cut them and fit them youself, i think there is a little oven trick to soften the pipe up a little so you can pop it over the rim but haven't tried it)

Alternative HPI Drift tyers

That should do it.

TBH if you have a stock TT01 for a very quick set up just fill you rear diff with blue tack, a bit of toe out on the front and cover your (rubber) wheels in a few rounds of electrical insulation tape and go for it.

Later

VV

Oh and don't bother with a drift box

Check out my car drifting at my local club this Thursday with the setup as mentioned above to prove it actually works .

[TWINSET 1793]

Never thought of blu-tac - I guess due to the absence of any traction, there's not much to cause it to heat up and go gooey :headslap d'oh:

Cheers

[redzone 212]

the best thing for the front diff i have found is to shim it up using the large diameter tamiya diff washers that sit between the side gears and the housing, also tamiya anti wear greaseon top of that. basically if you try and drift a car with a front gear diff it will drift better one direction than the other, as one side will open wheel easier than the other. front one ways are good as you get a "handbrake" effect by braking on your transmitter.

i have used blu-tak and hot glue etc in front gear diffs before but they all turn to goo in no time!

[WillyChang 1814]

Never thought of blu-tac - I guess due to the absence of any traction, there's not much to cause it to heat up and go gooey :headslap d'oh:

Cheers

blutac still goes all gooey after a while, some ppl add superglue in with blutac ... but i dun think they plan on removing the gunk

better non-permanent locker is "silly putty" sold in toyshops in a plastic egg shell

[TWINSET 1793]

blutac still goes all gooey after a while, some ppl add superglue in with blutac ... but i dun think they plan on removing the gunk

better non-permanent locker is "silly putty" sold in toyshops in a plastic egg shell

Cheers Willy, will give that a go - only £3 an egg on eBay

[WillyChang 1814]

that much!? wow inflation has struck bad...

for A$10 i bought a bag of "polymorph" granules, that white plastic that softens < 100degC... haven't yet tried it in a diff

all the dozens of TT01s built so far i've used Shoegoo, works great if you've got patience to wait overnight.

I glue up only the potmetal innards of the diff as a unit - so it is unattached to the nylon bits, can be slid out

and the gears washed in thinners or acetone.

To 'save' time i usually keep a diff's worth pre-glued ... so when needs be,

a TT01 can be thrown together in under 2hrs flat from kit to ready-2-drift.

[VinceVegaUK 0]

the best thing for the front diff i have found is to shim it up using the large diameter tamiya diff washers that sit between the side gears and the housing, also tamiya anti wear greaseon top of that. basically if you try and drift a car with a front gear diff it will drift better one direction than the other, as one side will open wheel easier than the other. front one ways are good as you get a "handbrake" effect by braking on your transmitter.

i have used blu-tak and hot glue etc in front gear diffs before but they all turn to goo in no time!

yea the blue tak is a quick fix i find the anti wear grease works a treat an no need to wait.

I didn't think about the diff rotation being more on one one side, next time i drift i will see if i can notice it. i might try the one way again but for now im having fun with what i have set up all though the hand brake technique of a front one way might help.

Tnx

vv

[VinceVegaUK 0]

Update!

Check out my car drifting at my local club this Thursday with the setup as mentioned above to prove it actually works .

Thanks

VV

[redzone 212]

so did u try tightening up the front diff?

[VinceVegaUK 0]

so did u try tightening up the front diff?

nope thats just how i have set it up as above, the rear diff is tight packed with anti wear grease, the front diff spins freely with normal thin grease and works normally as a bevel diff. It drifts fine and is predictable with a little toe in too so its more stable in a straight line, lets me do some scandinavian flicks into corners as seen in the vid down the straight on the left.

TBH i don't know why you would lock the front diff as this would cause understeer although having a front one way i guess would keep the car pulling once your in a drift and keep your speed up maybe?

I found using a front one way coming on and off the throttle and bliping it quite hard to handle because of the nature of a one way. when i'm in a turn in and i come off the power the one way is free giving more steer, i come back on throttle and the fornt diff becomes locked so i got a twitchy balance between understeer and oversteer though the drift when turning and bliping the throtle whichi feel didn't drift well so i have kept it the way i have it now.

Thanks

VV

[redzone 212]

yeah they definitely require a different driving style..

only cars i've ever had problems drifting had open front diffs. i'm running a TA03F now which is way more awesome with a front locker..

[WillyChang 1814]

currently playing with a "CounterSteer" setup with the rear end overdriven by nearly 70%

goes against every convention & drives really wierd (eg plough-on understeer on liftoff!?) but can be pretty effective if mastered

[TWINSET 1793]

Bought me a car to play with http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...9250&id=169

Silly Putty's weird stuff though, it settles like liquid if you leave it alone for an hour, even if you roll it into a ball before re-egging it

[redzone 212]

currently playing with a "CounterSteer" setup with the rear end overdriven by nearly 70%

goes against every convention & drives really wierd (eg plough-on understeer on liftoff!?) but can be pretty effective if mastered

i'm looking at doing it to my TA03F, will only be a mild change though due to using a 15T and 16T pulley on the belt, what do you think about doing it that way??