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Posted

Well I just got the DS and it time to build her because she will be a racer as its the last 2wd tamiya made thats actually decent. In regards to the dampers am I supposed to drill a hole in their caps? Ive read "they" are supposed to be aeration. If so what size hole to make? And yes I will be using nimrods chasis and bulkhead. After I finish this thread, im going to order the parts and repro body.

Posted
Well I just got the DS and it time to build her because she will be a racer as its the last 2wd tamiya made thats actually decent. In regards to the dampers am I supposed to drill a hole in their caps? Ive read "they" are supposed to be aeration. If so what size hole to make? And yes I will be using nimrods chasis and bulkhead. After I finish this thread, im going to order the parts and repro body.

UH NO WAY!

The dampers on the Dyna Storm are called "Sleeved" dampers. They are a bladder-less design that allows the air inside to mix with the oil, hence the term aeration. This is just the common/modern style of damper now. If you drilled a hole in the cap (that's aluminum cap BTW) you would shoot all your damper fluid out on the first stroke. It's the original Hi-Cap dampers that had the hole already drilled in the upper cap. Of course these dampers had bladders that kept the air separate from the oil (and kept the oil inside as well).

Just follow the kit instructions for building and setting up the car. They are very good!

Posted
UH NO WAY!

The dampers on the Dyna Storm are called "Sleeved" dampers. They are a bladder-less design that allows the air inside to mix with the oil, hence the term aeration. This is just the common/modern style of damper now. If you drilled a hole in the cap (that's aluminum cap BTW) you would shoot all your damper fluid out on the first stroke. It's the original Hi-Cap dampers that had the hole already drilled in the upper cap. Of course these dampers had bladders that kept the air separate from the oil (and kept the oil inside as well).

Just follow the kit instructions for building and setting up the car. They are very good!

Thanks 94 you have always helped me. Be it my Avante adventures or now my DS.

Posted

Exactly as 94 says! :-)

Eventually they all leak however B)

If you haven't built em, you may want to sell them new and use the money (should be good) towards the 501 dampers.

Not to put you off; they do work well indeed, they just require rebuilding more often than you may expect. They look goooood too! :(

Posted
Exactly as 94 says! :-)

Eventually they all leak however B)

If you haven't built em, you may want to sell them new and use the money (should be good) towards the 501 dampers.

Not to put you off; they do work well indeed, they just require rebuilding more often than you may expect. They look goooood too! :(

Yes they can leak quite easily. The reason being that the lower seal-cartridge starts to back out and drops the o-rings. At this point all the fluid is ejected downwards onto the suspension and track. The nice thing is that none of the parts get lost, they just slide down the shock shaft. I found that tightening the seal-cartridge as hard as you can (by hand) really goes a long way to keeping the shock together. I haven't had them fall out the entire time I was running it at our local off-road track (though I wasn't racing). The dampers have been great ever since...

The 501 shocks are very nice with a similar design & function as the Sleeved Dampers. The kit says to leave a little air to avoid hydrolock. The nice thing that is not explained in the manual, is that the plastic upper caps have a pre-moulded bleed holes. Simply drill out the hole and fit a small screw to plug it up. Now after you build your shocks, you can bleed all air as well as excess fluid. This allows you to set & match the rebound rates of your shocks left to right as well as front to back. This keeps your car handleing the same side to side. The more fluid inside the shock, the faster the rebound will be (speed at which the rod pops out on it's own after being pushed in). Of course if you have too much fluid, the damper will hydrolock and this will ruin your handling.

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