Ta03r Tub And Ff01

[floppydisk35 0]

As you guys might know, the FF01 tub chassis was taken directly from the TA02. Now, the battery positioning of the TA02's tub (50768) is at the back end, and this is bad for a FWD. My question is: Is there a way to move the battery pack up front? I mean, my 4200 pack weighs nearly 500g! By putting the battery nearer to the front, weight distribution should improve.

The TA03R's tub's battery position is at the front, and that's a plus in this case. Now, does the TA03R's tub (50637) fit over to the FF01 chassis? I searched Google all morning and I haven't found anything, really. I'm not planning to do any purchases or anything, it's just that this question about weight distribution has been bugging me all the week. Thanks for all your input

[redzone 212]

badword no! you could make an FF03 from a TA03F that has had the rear stripped of its driveline though.

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

As you guys might know, the FF01 tub chassis was taken directly from the TA02. Now, the battery positioning of the TA02's tub (50768) is at the back end, and this is bad for a FWD. My question is: Is there a way to move the battery pack up front? I mean, my 4200 pack weighs nearly 500g! By putting the battery nearer to the front, weight distribution should improve.

The TA03R's tub's battery position is at the front, and that's a plus in this case. Now, does the TA03R's tub (50637) fit over to the FF01 chassis? I searched Google all morning and I haven't found anything, really. I'm not planning to do any purchases or anything, it's just that this question about weight distribution has been bugging me all the week. Thanks for all your input

Although the TA03 and FF01/TA02 construction look somewhat like each other, they do use different mounting points on the chassis. So like redzone mentioned, it's easier to modify a TA03 with FRP or carbon plates to drive with FWD only (it doesn't matter whether you have the "R" or "F" plates set, the lower plate is the same, which is used for mounting the battery slot).

I am not that certain though that it will give better handling. There will be little to no weight on the rear at all, and the question is how much grip there will still be on the rear.

To prevent or reduce this, the suspension setup will require even harder set suspension on the front and softer on the rear just to keep the balance right (for the front also to keep it from bottoming out all the time). The toe-in that the rear uprights that the TA03 has could make the problem slightly smaller, but it may not be enough.

[irenL 0]

the same bottom plate for TA02 FRP chassis kit suggested a forward battery mounting when used for FF01... forward by 8mm or so if memory serves me right.

There is nothing wrong with the TA02 tub the FF01 is running with, work in more negative camber in the rear, set rear toe to 0 via TL01 toe blocks, and run yellow (medium) springs in the back, coupled with blue in the front. I'm running the super mini CVA plastic dampers, same piston valving as stock, but up the oil weight to #900 or 90 weight.. This is the best combo I've driven with, 5 yrs ago. Agile yet well planted. In fact, there are times I have to swap the blue for the whites up front.

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

What I forgot to mention... If you're looking for a better balance of the car by changing the battery position but want to keep the FF01, I would make my own chassis plates and fit the battery in the length of the car to get the weight more towards the centre of the car (looking from left to right) and with that reduce the body roll of the car. A little like this:

The pictures come from the RCTech Forum (Link to thread). The car uses what seems like a nylon or FRP single plate chassis and 1:10th scale pan car front suspension on the rear. Very lightweight

But as IrenL mentioned, the stock TA02 tub is pretty nice, too!

[floppydisk35 0]

Thanks for all the input everyone!

To redzone: Or a TA03F front end and a TA03R tub chassis for even more front end weight xP But that would finally end in one big crash in my hands! xDD

To Origineelreclamebord: That FF01 must fly! Though, there's not a lot of FF01 bits left in there apart from the front end. Still looks cool thou xD

To irenL: Lately I've been thinking for this combo: These damper oils (70 front, 50 rear), these yellow springs, and these blue springs for the front (I was actually gonna use black springs. But that would have been wayyy to much then..:S) Would it work?

[irenL 0]

To irenL: Lately I've been thinking for this combo: These damper oils (70 front, 50 rear), these yellow springs, and these blue springs for the front (I was actually gonna use black springs. But that would have been wayyy to much then..:S) Would it work?

1. glow engine car springs of the same colour will have slightly firmer rate.

2. 70/50? That will work with 2 hole pistons front and back. 50 will flow too easy through the 3 hole piston. Personally, I like to fill both front and rear dampers with the same oil weight. That setup of mine was for running 40F/35R foam tyres on asphalt. It works on 32R compound belted 24mm slicks as well... Basically any tyre with stiff sidewall. Early morning when the track is cold and the sugar water still fresh, I flip the foams back to front. For sure, by the end of the race day, both front and rear foam tyres were about the same rolling diameter. And still useable for the outlaw mini class as well. The FF01 is probably the only FF chassis from tamiya which can be paced wildly into corner. The FF02 needs a quite radically different setting, and much different driving style... can't let off the throttle completely -basically just floor it and it will still turn hard, especially on cold days.

[floppydisk35 0]

1. glow engine car springs of the same colour will have slightly firmer rate.

2. 70/50? That will work with 2 hole pistons front and back. 50 will flow too easy through the 3 hole piston. Personally, I like to fill both front and rear dampers with the same oil weight. That setup of mine was for running 40F/35R foam tyres on asphalt. It works on 32R compound belted 24mm slicks as well... Basically any tyre with stiff sidewall. Early morning when the track is cold and the sugar water still fresh, I flip the foams back to front. For sure, by the end of the race day, both front and rear foam tyres were about the same rolling diameter. And still useable for the outlaw mini class as well. The FF01 is probably the only FF chassis from tamiya which can be paced wildly into corner. The FF02 needs a quite radically different setting, and much different driving style... can't let off the throttle completely -basically just floor it and it will still turn hard, especially on cold days.

So, are you suggesting of using these (90 weight) shock oil for blue and yellow springs for the FF01?

(BTW, the FF02 sounds interesting...)

[irenL 0]

So, are you suggesting of using these (90 weight) shock oil for blue and yellow springs for the FF01?

(BTW, the FF02 sounds interesting...)

yup, that's the oil.