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Posted

After the Tamiya Mini scene has exploded at the local club, I was running a M03R, although could not pass on a brand new M05 chassis that came up on ebay for £45 posted less the wheels and shell.

So far mine has been fully ballraced, ball diff fitted, 3 Racing shocks and Universal shafts.

We are all running Team Orion 27T Club motors and I am the only one running a weighted Team Orion 3200 Lipo.

Wheels are Ansmann treaded on the front and foams on the rear. ESC Novak Rooster and running a ABC wide arch shell or Chevron Monster shell

At the moment I only seem to be getting 3rd and 4th place each week.

Speed wise I am pushing them down the straight, although cornering they are pulling away from me.

If anyone can give me tips on wheel camber/toe-in settings, which shock oil weight, shock platform ride heights, Body shell ride heights, Getting the most out of the motor etc, I would be a very happy racer.

Thanks in advance

Posted

I myself have just moved from a M03 to a M05. Our club run out the box stock (apart from tyres). Our track is tight and twisty. I find i have people in the corners as i find it turns in better than the M03. What sort of track do you run on? Have you tried different tyres? I run Xpress XPA-118 and find it gives me loads of grip on carpet without the grip-roll.

I'm running a 16T pinion, Stock friction shocks, silver can motor.

Posted
We are all running Team Orion 27T Club motors and I am the only one running a weighted Team Orion 3200 Lipo.

...

Speed wise I am pushing them down the straight, although cornering they are pulling away from me.

you sure that lipo gives enough 'punch' to pull out of corners?

with newer packs these days offering 30-50C and ppl using lipo pack warmers, ahem...!

Rooster should be ok on current capacity.

If anyone can give me tips on wheel camber/toe-in settings, which shock oil weight, shock platform ride heights, Body shell ride heights,

my M05PRO running 0-0.5deg toeout

rear toe-in 1.5 may reduce straights speed if you've got 0 now

blue(white) springs front, yellow(white) rear

super mini CVAs 40wt 2-hole; with the long spacer inside... gives ~5mm rideheight

stock camber - had a look at the option set, not much adjustment available there

seems to handle pretty sweet, feels as nimble as my M03

Getting the most out of the motor etc, I would be a very happy racer.

stock motor tuning... HUGE BLACK ART :lol: ... our racing has gone Hobbywing 13T combos which avoids all the meddling

but back in the olde daze...

Zapped your magnets?

Trued your comm until its minimum diameter?

ceramic bearings (if BBs allowed) or knife-edge stock bushings with a countersinking toolbit

high-silver brushes? double pigtails? soldered to the tab? brush shaping?

aligned your brushhoods properly?

optimised your brush spring tension properly?

steel pinion? (get the heaviest one you can find)

no grease in the gearbox

... etc

Posted
I myself have just moved from a M03 to a M05. Our club run out the box stock (apart from tyres). Our track is tight and twisty. I find i have people in the corners as i find it turns in better than the M03. What sort of track do you run on? Have you tried different tyres? I run Xpress XPA-118 and find it gives me loads of grip on carpet without the grip-roll.

I'm running a 16T pinion, Stock friction shocks, silver can motor.

Although just to throw into the mix I am up there with the M05 and M03 using my nicely vintage M01 :lol:

Xpress tyres on our track all the way though...

Posted

Thanks for the advice and tips so far.

The track is designed each week in a school basketball court size hall, mainly for 1:10th Touring cars using tug boat ropes on carpet.

The 2 guys beating me are running a M03 & M03L using stick packs.

I tried a pair of RP24's slick tyres on the front, although with the Lipo I cannot seem to get the power down. I did get some Cooper Rally block style tyres off Twisty, although these seem to be too much grip.

Just won some TRF shocks from Moosey off ebay, so hopefully they may be better then the current 3 racing blue shocks.

Will the M03 turnbuckle set fit the M05 as I am also having problems with the steering arm popping off.

Posted
At the moment I only seem to be getting 3rd and 4th place each week.

Some might say thats pretty good though! Are you sure its not your skills that need upgrading...?!!

(please take it in the jovial manner it was intended!)

Posted
Some might say thats pretty good though! Are you sure its not your skills that need upgrading...?!!

(please take it in the jovial manner it was intended!)

:lol:

I think I am going wrong by running Lipo as its not going to match a 4500 Team Orion stick pack in weight.

With the car being much Lighter, the punch coming from the Lipo is most probally just being lost in wheelspinning.

Normally a pair of Ansmann racing rubber tyres last 6 five minutes races lol.

Posted
Will the M03 turnbuckle set fit the M05 as I am also having problems with the steering arm popping off.

The standard M05 steering turnbuckle angle is massive. Using the long ball studs from the M03 on the steering arms fixes that problem.

Posted
The standard M05 steering turnbuckle angle is massive. Using the long ball studs from the M03 on the steering arms fixes that problem.

I fitted uprated turnbuckles to my Mini and the wheel on a couple of occasions went under the steering arm. (Would this solve itself if I use the furthest screw thread on the ally steering arm)

Tried Tamiya M chassis tyres on the front and foams on the rear, which the car seemed to understeer on corners. (Should I be using carpet tyre glupe ??)

Tried 10th scale treaded wheels and the front plastic wheel snapped around the nut lol.

Ended up using a brand new pair of Ansmann racing tyres and adjusted the TRF spring platfom down by 5 rings, which the car seemed to handle brillantly.

To get the best performance though I think I need to fit a Tamiya Mini shell as the Monster chevron shell cannot be lowered enough, unless I cut the shell.

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