Monster Beetle

[Live Steam Mad]

My front shocks with paint on are the yellow ones, I was a little scared to try as last night like a fool I tried nail polish remover (not mine ) on the battery end caps and on/off switch mount and it reacted with the plastic which has just cost me a new A parts section (£22.50 ) Obviously nail polish remover is more aggressive than I thought. I'll pic some white spirit up as I think we have run out but I figured as it looks like acrylic paint NPR would have worked better, I'll remember that for next time. Still I suppose I have a spare chassis now.

Nail Polish Remover usually contains Acetone which eats Polycarbonate and some other plastics as you just found out!

White Spirit is perfectly harmless to ABS but eats Styrene ( Monster Beetle body ) so you have to watch out.

Cheers,

ARG

[Boothy]

Nail Polish Remover usually contains Acetone which eats Polycarbonate and some other plastics as you just found out!

White Spirit is perfectly harmless to ABS but eats Styrene ( Monster Beetle body ) so you have to watch out.

Cheers,

ARG

Ah, I should ask these things first I guess

Just went to the local hobby shop and picked up a batterey pack and fast charger. I have also just realised that my upper pivot bolts that are missing are slightly longer than the bottom bolts as they go through the front suspension mount. I am hoping the frog screw bag has two of these in it, otherwise will the frog ones work ok?

I also just ordered one of mooters ally top mounts as mine is broken, I discovered this when I removed the insulation tape I thought they had used to tie the arial too. Still adds some bling

I am now at £160 and still dont have a body or shocks and I am not sure if I should change the old radio gear and MSC yet...

Andy

[Live Steam Mad]

Ah, I should ask these things first I guess

Just went to the local hobby shop and picked up a batterey pack and fast charger. I have also just realised that my upper pivot bolts that are missing are slightly longer than the bottom bolts as they go through the front suspension mount. I am hoping the frog screw bag has two of these in it, otherwise will the frog ones work ok?

I also just ordered one of mooters ally top mounts as mine is broken, I discovered this when I removed the insulation tape I thought they had used to tie the arial too. Still adds some bling

I am now at £160 and still dont have a body or shocks and I am not sure if I should change the old radio gear and MSC yet...

Andy

Personally I would change to old radio gear LOL. An Acoms MK3 would just scrape in as acceptible I think and it's my favourite of the controllers of that era. I'd stick with the MSC myself and use a separate RX pack and NON BEC RX like ARC 227 (don't ever try to use an RX pack on a BEC RX. 2 voltages into the same input kills the receiver, I've done that before with a Hitec RX ).

Body used to be 15 quid a couple of years ago when Jason had 50+ of them for sale at once. Then the UK sellers got hold of them and the price doubled

Wait for the Scorcher re-re and grab 3 bodies from Jason. 1 for the shelf, 1 for light runs on the BEACH, and one to beat the carp out of.

Cheers,

ARG

[Boothy]

Personally I would change to old radio gear LOL. An Acoms MK3 would just scrape in as acceptible I think and it's my favourite of the controllers of that era. I'd stick with the MSC myself and use a separate RX pack and NON BEC RX like ARC 227 (don't ever try to use an RX pack on a BEC RX. 2 voltages into the same input kills the receiver, I've done that before with a Hitec RX ).

Sorry you have got me I'm new at this and have no idea what a separate RX pack is really, I have just used google and I see that an Arc 227 is a receiver and an rx pack is a battery but I am not sure I follow what you mean?

This is my receiver...

I am guessing mine is BEC as it has it on there, but I am lost as to what all that means I'm going to give it all a go and have just cleaned it all up ready for when the car can go back together.

I have another newbie question, I just bought a battery and charger, my battery is a 3700mah and my charger is this one RIPMAX CHARGER CLICKY its switchable between 2, 3.5 and 5 Amps, it came set on 2a but there were no instructions in the box, I put it on charge but its been on over an hour and is still not ready.

I have done some digging and it looks like 2a is too low however I cant work out if I need to be on 3.5a or if 5a will be ok? I am guessing 5a is the fastest charge?

Also the fact I have done it on 2a will that be ok? I am guessing so but will take twice as long to charge?

thanks again

Andy

[Boothy]

Well I just set up all my electrics on the bench to test everything now I have a battery and the motor does not turn, I have tested with a volt meter and I am showing over 8 volts (7.2v batt) at the terminals on the motor and this changes with the speed control so I guess all that is fine. Do we have any tips other than junk the motor and spend even more money?

I know nothing about motors so I dont know what to look for.

Thanks again

Andy

[TA-Mark]

I have another newbie question, I just bought a battery and charger, my battery is a 3700mah and my charger is this one RIPMAX CHARGER CLICKY its switchable between 2, 3.5 and 5 Amps, it came set on 2a but there were no instructions in the box, I put it on charge but its been on over an hour and is still not ready.

I have done some digging and it looks like 2a is too low however I cant work out if I need to be on 3.5a or if 5a will be ok? I am guessing 5a is the fastest charge?

Also the fact I have done it on 2a will that be ok? I am guessing so but will take twice as long to charge?

thanks again

Andy

Charging on 2 Amp won't hurt the pack, but it will take almost 2 hours. Charging on 3.5 Amp will take just over 1 hr and will give the most cycles from the pack before it dies. Charging on 5 Amp will make the pack "punchier" but will cut into the life of the pack.

Always check battery temps near the end of the charge, if it's getting very warm on 5 Amp, use the 3.5 Amp setting. Run the packs warm off the charger, they will loose their peak even after a few hours of being charged.

[TA-Mark]

Well I just set up all my electrics on the bench to test everything now I have a battery and the motor does not turn, I have tested with a volt meter and I am showing over 8 volts (7.2v batt) at the terminals on the motor and this changes with the speed control so I guess all that is fine. Do we have any tips other than junk the motor and spend even more money?

I know nothing about motors so I dont know what to look for.

Thanks again

Andy

Is the motor in the gearbox when testing? Tight gearbox or something binding will prevent it from running. Check if the motor works directly from a battery out of the car.

[Boothy]

Is the motor in the gearbox when testing? Tight gearbox or something binding will prevent it from running. Check if the motor works directly from a battery out of the car.

Hi the motor was just on the bench, I'll test it straight from the battery now.

[Boothy]

Just tested it straight off the battery and its dead, nothing at all. Not even a hum or buzz?

[Boothy]

Ok I just took the motor apart to see what I could see, the magnets and windings look ok and the motor turns freely. I took this photo of the end bit.

I tested votage right onto the ends of what I am guessing are the brushes, the middle bits. One is springy the other seems tight, one looks obviously worn. Is that the problem?

Andy

[TA-Mark]

One of those brushes is totally wornout, bent and doesn't appear to have been touching the comm. Time for a motor rebuild or replacement.

[Boothy]

One of those brushes is totally wornout, bent and doesn't appear to have been touching the comm. Time for a motor rebuild or replacement.

By rebuild is that just new brushes or does it look worse than that? I will have to see if you can get bits for a technipower (thats if thats what it is).

This thing is getting more expensive all the time lol.

What would be a good suggested motor if its better to buy new? Tamiya ones look more expensive than the others.

Andy

[Boothy]

Ok I got it working, it looks like the brushes were not touching, it needs a clean and new brushes by the looks of it. I plugged it straight onto the battery and boy did it go! I think I nearly had a heart attack.

[SKIPP]

Pivot bolts in screw bag D 9465665

Dear Boothy the upper arm step bolts are 3 x 22 mm.(longer for mb and blackfoot)because they

go through the upper shock tower.frog has no upper shock tower,so the step bolts are 3 x 20mm.

to short for mb.the rest of the step bolts are 3 x 20 mm. in the rest of the suspension.

these longer ones are a little harder to get.If ypu look at tadays showroom you'll see someone

just picked to tamiya dealer screw boxs.I would check with him and see if he has some in

those boxes.you might get lucky.all gears are available new.mb counter gear set

is different than frog.tamiya still sells counter gear set and pinion new, or tower hobbies has them.

All other gears are same as frog/subaru brat.

have fun,

skip

[SKIPP]

Pivot bolts in screw bag D 9465665

Dear Boothy the upper arm step bolts are 3 x 22 mm.(longer for mb and blackfoot)because they

go through the upper shock tower.frog has no upper shock tower,so the step bolts are 3 x 20mm.

to short for mb.the rest of the step bolts are 3 x 20 mm. in the rest of the suspension.

these longer ones are a little harder to get.If ypu look at tadays showroom you'll see someone

just picked to tamiya dealer screw boxs.I would check with him and see if he has some in

those boxes.you might get lucky.all gears are available new.mb counter gear set

is different than frog.tamiya still sells counter gear set and pinion new, or tower hobbies has them.

All other gears are same as frog/subaru brat.

have fun,

skip

[Boothy]

Ok I got it working, it looks like the brushes were not touching, it needs a clean and new brushes by the looks of it. I plugged it straight onto the battery and boy did it go! I think I nearly had a heart attack.

I was hoping that would not be the case but kinda guessed it would, I have ordered 3 of the frog bags but guess I am going to have to pay the over inflated ebay prices for bag D, I cant find the user you mention?

Cheers

Andy

[Live Steam Mad]

Sorry you have got me I'm new at this and have no idea what a separate RX pack is really, I have just used google and I see that an Arc 227 is a receiver and an rx pack is a battery but I am not sure I follow what you mean?

This is my receiver...

I am guessing mine is BEC as it has it on there, but I am lost as to what all that means I'm going to give it all a go and have just cleaned it all up ready for when the car can go back together.

I have another newbie question, I just bought a battery and charger, my battery is a 3700mah and my charger is this one RIPMAX CHARGER CLICKY its switchable between 2, 3.5 and 5 Amps, it came set on 2a but there were no instructions in the box, I put it on charge but its been on over an hour and is still not ready.

I have done some digging and it looks like 2a is too low however I cant work out if I need to be on 3.5a or if 5a will be ok? I am guessing 5a is the fastest charge?

Also the fact I have done it on 2a will that be ok? I am guessing so but will take twice as long to charge?

thanks again

Andy

A separate RX pack comes from an era when receivers did not have BEC circuitry and they needed to run a separate battery pack just for the receiver and servos alone. This was 4 cells, so with dry cells gave 6V and with NiCd gave 4.8V. The main motor for the car needed 7.2V for good efficiency and needed to be big for large currents, so that had it's own battery pack of course.

BEC means Battery Eliminator circuitry. It first came in (as regards Acoms radios sets) with the ARE 227, with the later MK3 sets. The early MK3 sets had ARC 227 (and AS5s servos instead of AS7's).

BEC allowed as the name suggests to get rid of the separate RX pack, so saving the weight there. Unfortunately it means that when the main drive motor pack is exhausted the car then goes out of control as there is not enough left in it to bring the servos back to neutral (a bad thing when one of them is moving the Mechanical Speed Controller) so the car goes around in circles and smashes your body into a kerb.

Ages ago I found out the hard way that if you accidentally use a separate RX pack whilst also using a BEC receiver or BEC built into the ESC, you will be supplying the RX with 2 sources of voltages and it fries it, even though the BEC circuit and the RX pack may be at almost the same voltage. Just something to be aware of...

I run an Acoms MK3 in my Frog with an ARC 227 (not BEC) and a separate RX battery pack and the original 1983 Frog Mechanical Speed Controller.

Regarding your charger, the battery is 3.7 Ampere Hours capacity, so will need 3.7 Amp's for 1 hour. Give it 2A and it will take 3.7 / 2 x 1 hour, i.e. nearly twice as long. The manufacturers always recommend charging at the 1 hour rate (in this case 3.7A) for best cell life (the most cycles for your cash). You can safely charge at a maximum of 2x the hourly rate as long as you are using a PEAK cut off charger. The 1st time you charge them they may get very hot but from then on will not get as hot when charging. If they are NiCD cells then you can let them get to cup of tea hot. If they are NiMH, hand hot (45 celcius max.) is the most you can let them reach otherwise you will reduce their life significantly if you keep letting them get too hot. On more expensive chargers you can alter the delta peak to suit the cells so they don't get too hot all the time. NEVER charge cells that are warm. ALWAYS use VENTED type cells if you don't like explosives LOL.

LiPo is Lithium Cobalt Oxide and can quite easily burn your house down if you overcharge them since they start a fire that cannot be stopped (they burn underwater like Phosphorus etc.). LiPo MUST be charged at NO MORE THAN the 1 hour rate.

LiFe cells are WAY safer as the Lithium Iron Phosphate cannot thermal runaway unless absolutely stupidly abused. LiFE needs a special charger and has only 6.6V and less capacity than LiPo.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[Live Steam Mad]

Ok I got it working, it looks like the brushes were not touching, it needs a clean and new brushes by the looks of it. I plugged it straight onto the battery and boy did it go! I think I nearly had a heart attack.

By the looks of the top brush holder there was no brush on it (brushes are soft Copper-Carbon) so if you used it as is you have let the hard Nickel plated brush holder press against the Commutator (the circular end part of the motor) and you have probably damaged the Comm. to some extent. Then again the comm. will need a re-skim in a motor lathe after this amount of time as it's probably scratched and pitted and burned etc.

Also if the motor has been run hard for a long time it's magnets probably got very hot and it may have made the motor weak so be warned about that LOL.

I would suggest a new, rebuildable motor. My money would be on a nearly new condition Reedy Modified. They are well cheap off Ebay. No one wants brushed motors now except us vintage guys.

However you would be best advised trying a model shop and buying new. Brushless would be more efficient but are one heck of a price for a combo (ESC / motor) in a UK shop. If you do want brushless, check it fits from someone on here, first.

Technipower and Technigold are going to be expensive to buy and haven't been made for maybe 15 years..

Cheers,

ARG

[Boothy]

My money would be on a nearly new condition Reedy Modified. They are well cheap off Ebay. No one wants brushed motors now except us vintage guys.

I'll start again by saying thank you for all of your help

Just had a look on e-bay but there are non in this country at the moment, what sort of motor would be best for the MB? I dont understand the nuber of turns and what it means? Also are the sport tuned 540's any good or just expensve for what they are?

Andy

[Boothy]

I have just spotted a Tamiya super stock TZ on e-bay but also the ANSMANN RACING CLASH motors look really good value if I only understood what the differences were. Off to hunt google

[Live Steam Mad]

I'll start again by saying thank you for all of your help

Just had a look on e-bay but there are non in this country at the moment, what sort of motor would be best for the MB? I dont understand the nuber of turns and what it means? Also are the sport tuned 540's any good or just expensve for what they are?

Andy

The reason that I mentioned about Reedy motors was because the armature is dynamically balanced to a VERY good standard (they don't vibrate horridly like cheap motors and reach their top speed with wonderful smoothness). I saw several on Ebay USA a while back and bought a 12 double to go in my Top Force.

Tamiya modified motors vibrate a lot but have very powerful magnets. They are best bought from places like Stellamodels or RCMart (both Hong Kong sellers where I tend to get my stuff from).

Tamiya's Sport Tuned is a NON-rebuildable 27 Turn Single which has quite a few degrees of advanced timing on it. Torque is down at 350g.cm compared to Tamiya's e.g. Super Stock RZ at 500g.cm if I remember right (because the magnets are the same as the RS540SH i.e. poor, but RPM of the Sport Tuned is subtantially higher RPM than the Mabuchi RS540S (the one that the MB came with, with black plastic endbell and no advanced timing) but takes more current but that's no problem with modern battery packs.

I would suggest a Tamiya Super Stock RZ. I had a few of them and the speed is excellent compared to a stock motor plus they are rebuildable and you can get spare brushes. They are 20 quid in HK and roughly 40 quid in UK approx. if I remember right. They do 27,500 RPM no load.

BUT...

With high RPM motors you will have to watch out that you are not overgearing the motor since it needs a smaller pinion to reach it's power band (high top end RPM).

Other members here will be able to tell you if you can get a different pinion or if you need to change your pinion when running the ORV chassis with large tyres and high RPM motors. WIth my Frog it isn't an issue due to smaller tyres.

Low turn motors have high RPM but less torque but draw more Amps and have more power. High turn motors have low RPM but more torque but draw less Amps and have lower power. In general.

Brushless motors need 1/2 the number of turns to get the same RPM / power.

Cheers,

ARG

[Live Steam Mad]

Tamiya Super Stock RZ spec's and pictures and box are here in my long disused showroom ;-

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...496&id=5475

Just ask those on here whether it's suitable for use with MB before you buy one LOL.

I'm actually using an original Mabuchi RS540S with my ORV chassi'd Frog. Excellent speed. Smaller tyres though of course, like I say.

SSRZ will have way more torque so will accelerate faster. Even though it's lower turns, it's got VERY much more powerful magnets.

Brushless motors have even more torque for same equivalent RPM, in general.

Cheers,

ARG

[chris350z]

I have just spotted a Tamiya super stock TZ on e-bay but also the ANSMANN RACING CLASH motors look really good value if I only understood what the differences were. Off to hunt google

i have the clash 23t in my at first they lock up abit, but soon were in

[chris350z]

Does anyone know if the two battery end caps and the on/off switch mount come up very often? Mine are a mess and after trying to clean them up I just made them worse I have seen they come as part of the chassis which is about £30, other than that I can get the Brat ones for just over a tenner but being anal they are not the same colour.

I have had a look on e-bay and in the classifieds but I cant find anything.

cheers

Andy

are these the end bits you want? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tamiya-9005299-Black...=item56386d925d

[Boothy]

are these the end bits you want? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tamiya-9005299-Black...=item56386d925d

I can't believe that, I looked everywhere they must of only come on today. I just paid £23 to get the complete set with chassis