Jump to content
TWINSET

G Made Balrog - Now The R1

Recommended Posts

how does it perform?

are you impressed?

Haven't had the chance to try it on rocks yet, hoping to get out on Monday

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Been playing with the balance - 430g (15oz) across the front axle

build041.jpg

build042.jpg

build043.jpg

Pavement Pizza paintjob

build044.jpg

build045.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm calling it Vomouflage - urban camo for a Sunday morning :unsure:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:lol: OPTIONS!!!!!!

http://www.junfac.com/

Alu Cs

Top Link Mount

Skid Plate Cover

Light Kit

High Clearance Links

Clocked Cs

Alu Knuckles

Shock Braces

Alu link mounts

Diff guard

op1.jpg

op2.jpg

op3.jpg

op4.jpg

op5.jpg

op6.jpg

op7.jpg

op8.jpg

op9.jpg

op10.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

now i'm glad i didn't get a crawler last year, this thing is too cool.

it may be my first non tamiya since i got back into rc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ah man.

ordered mine the other day.

i will have a look and order some more bits

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I like it, looks pretty sweet.

Me too. Also, that has got to be the easiest paintjob ever!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Took it out for a good kicking at the weekend :lol:

The motor cogs (stutters at low revs) like a loony and the drag brake is relatively non-existant - 20-30 degree grass slope and the truck gently rolled down it :)

Worth knowing;

Threadlock the ball ends to their respective screws, and any major or inaccessible metal/metal fixings - especially the link mount screws (link mounts to axles)

The plastics used don't compress much to 'tension' the screws and on the link mount screws, normal (not nyloc) nuts have been used, so definitely threadlock those

Front shocks (only) leaked a little, but only puddled around the top of the ball end, the ballend itself didn't have any oil on it, so a very small leak.

Tires/Foam were too hard for where we were - very rough rock but tires still struggled for traction - Hammers/Mem Foam were significantly better

The battery over the rear axle didn't seem to create any real issues, except for (near) vertical climbs, but I doubt it would've coped much better with it over the front axle either.

I turned the battery plate over so that it was slightly lower, but it's only about 3/8" / 10mm different either way.

Whole truck seems pretty strong, treated it like any other crawler I've run, and nothing busted yet

Carnage;

Nothing broke, three battery packs used, and wasn't exactly kid-gloving it (note bent shock brace in 2nd pic)

build047.jpg

build048.jpg

build049.jpg

build050.jpg

build051.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The crawling equivalent to 'nekkid and draped over a Countach'

build054.jpg

build055.jpg

build056.jpg

build057.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
cool.

im picking mine up today.

did you get hit with customs charges?

No, although it did have a full value declaration, so just got lucky :)

How much did you get hit?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
No, although it did have a full value declaration, so just got lucky :)

How much did you get hit?

£5.11 vat

£13.50 handling charge.

i thought it would be more.and i have have got away with it more often than not,so not to bad.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

finally got it out of the boot of my car and sneaked it in the house.

looked at the documents and i was lucky.

junfac marked it gift and $45 worth.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorted out the cogging - changed the motor :D

Got a Hacker A20-12XL and garden tests would suggest the cogging is no more :D

It's tiny compared to the EZRun, and apart from being quite noisy, it works great

Had a helluva job finding one in UK, but Park Aero were kind enough to order one in, turned up in a couple of days!

build059.jpg

To fit it, asked Sideways-King to make me a 3mm stainless motor plate - this motor has 16mm or 19mm mount holes, not standard 25mm 540 holes

Excellent job done, and well fast too - cheers Chris

build058.jpg

build060.jpg

build061.jpg

Also modded the skid as per Elbo's build and bought some triangulating top link mounts;

build062.jpg

build063.jpg

build064.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dig just released;

r1_dig0.jpg

r1_dig1.jpg

r1_dig2.jpg

r1_dig3.jpg

r1_dig4.jpg

r1_dig5.jpg

Main features

  • CNC machined from solid billet aircraft aluminum and carbon steel
  • Super light weight
  • Carbon steel dig outdrive (Heat treatment)
  • Brass slide rod keep things moving smooth
  • Works with mini and standard sized servos
  • Easy Installation

What's included

  • Dig system x 1
  • Servo plate x 1
  • Servo mount x 2
  • Linkage x 1
  • Installation Screws and Bolts

Required: Mini or standard sized servo, 3 Channel Radio (A 3-position Aux channel is required. A 2-position Aux channel can be used as well, however only rear dig can be used.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Mark

The programming is dead easy - I found it worked best using a 4 cell battery pack to power the programmer (there's 2 sockets on top edge, one for battery pack and one for ESC)

One button cycles through the mode (forward/reverse, brake settings etc) and the other is for the variable on each mode (brakes on/off, drag brake power etc)

Once you set it up, press 'OK' button to store settings - it really is that easy!

I managed to set mine up with no problems. I was relatively unimpressed by the performance using a Nimh battery. I came to find out after purchasing that the motor used for the EZ Run crawler combo is a 380 motor which in my opinion is foolish. I haven't had the cogging issues you speak of and I actually had to lowe my drag brake setting as it would hold on a **** near vertical surface! In order to get more wheel speed, I recently switched to a 18C 3S 2500 Mah lipo battery. Much improved!! Love your R1....

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've only evolved as far as NiMh - me and anything that may explode if misused are best kept separate :)

Not sure if it's here or another forum, but apparently any .5 turn motors mean theyre a 540 armature, whereas whole numbers mean it's a 380.

The drag brake was really poor with the stock motor, even on a 10-15 degree grass slope the truck rolled, and trimming it out started it cogging.

Since I switched to the Hacker it's been a lot better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've only evolved as far as NiMh - me and anything that may explode if misused are best kept separate ;)

Not sure if it's here or another forum, but apparently any .5 turn motors mean theyre a 540 armature, whereas whole numbers mean it's a 380.

The drag brake was really poor with the stock motor, even on a 10-15 degree grass slope the truck rolled, and trimming it out started it cogging.

Since I switched to the Hacker it's been a lot better.

;) And one day I will be able to decipher exactly what the badword you are talking about Andy. Digg, cogging........... I'm totally lost when you guys speak about these things.

:D and on the lighter side, those portals will work nicely on a project I have in mind.

Can you digg it!...... ;)

Henk ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
;) And one day I will be able to decipher exactly what the badword you are talking about Andy. Digg, cogging........... I'm totally lost when you guys speak about these things.

:D and on the lighter side, those portals will work nicely on a project I have in mind.

Sheesh, where's me crayons ;)

Cogging is a motor stuttering - the easiest way to imagine it is with a pinion with half the teeth missing - the truck jumps forward in set intervals, but most noticeable at slower speeds

Dig is effectively a rear-axle disconnect and brake - you can lock the rear axle to allow far tighter turning.

When engaged on the rear axle, the front wheel's spinning 'digs' a hole (if the ground's soft enough)

Locking the rear axle is referred to as front dig, just to simplify things ;) (it's the front wheels that'll do the digging)

GMade's vid of dig;

Mine;

As well as tighter turning, the dig can be used to control climbing; you can disconnect drive from the rear axle so that the rear wheels don't flip the truck when scaling vertical faces (need a 3 position 3rd channel for that though)

You can also brake the rear axle for descending steps, kinda like creeping down with the handbrake on

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

;) Andy, I will obviously have to build something that can digg but not cog!

Now I really must get something to try and see what you just described to me. There goes my pocket money........

Henk ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...