G Made Balrog - Now The R1

[TWINSET 1793]

Andy, I will obviously have to build something that can digg but not cog!

Now I really must get something to try and see what you just described to me. There goes my pocket money........

Henk

I think cogging is purely a brushless phenomenon - I just fancied doing it on the cheap, but ended up spending pretty much the same as a Novak ESC and a 55t lathe motor

[TamiyaVancouver 5]

Saw your truck in one of the RC Magazines today!

Mark

[TWINSET 1793]

Saw your truck in one of the RC Magazines today!

Mark

Cool - got a pic?

I've not heard anything about it

[backtomyroots 432]

Yep, I think it's in Reader's Rides - RCCA - I'm away from home but I'm certain it's RCCA .

[TamiyaVancouver 5]

Yep, I think it's in Reader's Rides - RCCA - I'm away from home but I'm certain it's RCCA .

Sorry, don't have a pic. As mentioned above, it is in the Reader's Rides Section of "Radio Control Car Action" magazine.

Mark P.

[TWINSET 1793]

More goodies from GMade and Junfac;

Low CG Battery & Servo Plate for R1 Axle

Main features

• This product allow Gmade R1 to put the weight of the servo and battery over the front axle for better rock crawling performance
  
• Lowers the overall center of gravity
  
• Exceptional quality and silver anodizing finish
  
• It allows you to mount a small LiPo pack or custom configured battery pack over the front axle
  
• Easy Installation
  
• Fits Gmade R1 Axles
  

What's included

• Servo plate x 1
  
• Battery plate x 1
  
• Aluminum servo mount x 2
  
• Aluminum spacer x 4
  
• Installation Screws & Nuts
  

R1 Delrin Skid Plate

Main features

• Delrin skid plate wraps under the side plates to help you slide over the rocks better
  
• This skid moves the links to a triangulated inboard position
  
• Mounting the links inside the chassis plates gives the bottom of the chassis a smooth edge to slide over rocks
  
• CNC Machined from solid billet delrin
  
• Exceptional quality
  
• Easy Installation
  

What's included

• Delrin Skid Plate x 1
  
• Installation Screws & Nuts
  

[mobias 0]

Does anyone here know where you can get the R1 in the UK? I see Fusion Hobbies sell them but apparently they sold out of their last R1 yesterday and I really wanted one to play with on holiday next week I know that Junfac themselves take quite a while to ship them. Wish I hadn't left it so late but I only decided I really wanted one the other day.

[TWINSET 1793]

As far as I know, Fusion are the sole source for GMade in the UK (possibly even Europe)

[mobias 0]

Yeah I was doing a little bit of searching on google and that seems to be the case. The girl at Fusion is going to see how quickly they can get me one but I doubt its any faster than me ordering direct from Junfac. I'm surprised not more people stock their stuff, they make a lot of good quality kit.

If anyone here has a second hand R1 they want to sell, I may be interested

[mobias 0]

Got myself an R1 on order now from Fusion Hobbies. Can't believe this truck slipped my attention for so long. I've been watching all the clips of it on youtube to get myself hyped up. It looks like a lot of fun and really the sort of kit I thought the CR-01 should be - a truly decent crawler and rock racer.

Can anyone here who has one recommend a good ESC/motor combo that would give decent top speed but also an acceptable crawling ability? I've been reading a lot of info over on the RCcrawler website but there seems to be so many different variable's. It can get confusing, I guess its a bit of trial and error. I need a set up that is reasonably inexpensive and that ideally has a drag brake. I'd also like to put a cockpit and driver dude in it but I've heard the interior room is small, people have done it though.

[Percymon 2184]

To stand any chance of fitting a driver figure you've got to mount the battery on the front axle, leaving you the battery tray for esc and radio. Even the you ideally want a small esc.

[mobias 0]

To stand any chance of fitting a driver figure you've got to mount the battery on the front axle, leaving you the battery tray for esc and radio. Even the you ideally want a small esc.

I've noticed though that some people make a little shelf area under the front body nose for storing the receiver or ESC. If you scroll down halfway to the bottom of this thread and have a look. Its ideally the thing I'd like to go for http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281935 The guy has even made a little engine model.

[mobias 0]

Does anyone here know whether Tamiya's 35t CR crawler motor would fit in the R1? I got an Mtroniks crawler ESC with a 35t limit and I wanted to go no lower than 35t in my R1 because I wanted at least some speed at full throttle. I was just wondering whether the motor's end bell would snag the top right link? It doesn't look like there's much room in there. I've got a stock silver can in there and its actually fine for bashing and light crawling but I want a drag brake so I've got to get a new motor in there that won't blow the ESC.

I absolutely love my R1. Great build, took no time at all and very straightforward. Not sure what i'm going to do with my battery situation yet. I really don't like having my huge stick pack coming out the back of the chassis. I may put it on the rear axle but I guess that means fabricating some sort of shelf for it to sit on which I guess might not be that difficult. Either that or go down the Li-Po route. Li-Po's are a totally unknown area for me though so I would need to do my research there.

[BigJag 36]

I have just upgraded to LIPO. It's really not that difficult. Follow the instructions and you'll be good. Nothing to be afraid of. Oh and they turn the fun factor up to 20.

[TWINSET 1793]

Must admit to being lipophobic myself until the changeover was forced upon me - still got all my digits and two 'as new' charging bags.

Just read the instructions properly, take the advised safety precautions and you'll be good.

As for the motor, I fitted a EZRun 540 in to mine, but it meant moving the transmission right back (using available mounting holes)

It's 50mm long, and a constant diameter, so the tapered endbell of a mod motor should be ok, provided Tamiya didn't make their crawler motor overly long.

Have you got another motor you can test the fit with?

[mobias 0]

Have you got another motor you can test the fit with?

Yeah I've got a couple of RZ's in my TXT. They have what looks like a similar size endbell. Without going to the hassle of taking them out to test I've done an approximate measurement and it does look like Tamiya's CR motor would fit but only just. I don't know why Junfac made the R1 chassis cage so small. If it was just 10mm or so bigger everything would fit in comfortably. Its an insanely fiddley little area to work in.

I will definitely go down the LiPo route sooner or later. I've been reading up on it and it sounds great. I think I might also put 4WS in my R1 too. Its turning radius isn't the best. Its my first non Tamiya RC kit though and I'm well impressed.

[backtomyroots 432]

so, are the mounting holes for "standard" 540 size motors then on the motor plate ? Would it be safe to say that most brushless are this size ?

What then, seems to be the maximum length and diameter motor to install ?

I was thinking of this:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXBBME&P=7

or even one of the traxxas velineon set ups. Thoughts ?

Sorry, my R1 is still packed away. But on the positive side, the body panels are away at the painter . Stay tuned - that's teaser info right there.

[TWINSET 1793]

so, are the mounting holes for "standard" 540 size motors then on the motor plate ? Would it be safe to say that most brushless are this size ?

What then, seems to be the maximum length and diameter motor to install ?

a 50mm long, 35mm diameter EZrun just fits if you use the rearmost mount holes for the transmission;

If you 'inboard' the lower links though, you lose that option;

A 380 outrunner fits fine either way (scroll up)

[backtomyroots 432]

Thanks Andy !

[mobias 0]

Took my camera out with me this weekend to get some shots of my finished R1. Really chuffed with how it turned out and I must say that hands down this is the most fun RC car I've ever owned. At the moment I've got a standard silver can motor in it and I'm deliberating what motor to finally put in there. I think my R1 is definitely destined to be a rock racer with crawling capabilities rather than an all out dedicated crawler. I do like having a bit of speed at my disposal when I need it and the R1 seems to be at home as much tearing around doing small jumps as it is slowly working its way up some boulders. It just seems a great all rounder. I've got a Tamiya CR tuned motor which is 35 turns but I'm just a bit worried its going to be a tad slow for my liking. I may end up going for something like Tamiya's dirt tuned motor which is 27 turns but has a little more grunt than the standard silver can.

I really wanted my R1 to be as scale looking as possible. Some of the more scale looking R1's people have done look fantastic I think. I made a little mesh enclosure to hide the electronics and Scorcher dude kindly volunteered to be my driver. He didn't seem to mind having a lot of his back and top of head sawn off to fit there but I must say he might be a bit of a better driver if he actually looked where he was going and not off to the side all the time. No wonder he keeps smacking into things

My battery is mounted on the rear axle for now. Seems ok but the car does have a tendency to back flip a lot. Anyway it'll do until I switch to Lipo. Scale accessories are all standard Proline stuff but I'll probably add a bit more. One thing I'd love to do is make some black netting (a la Hotshot) for the window areas. Anyone here know how you go about doing that? Or where to buy some?

I'd like to get different tires. I've heard mainly bad reports about the standard G-made ones that are fitted but they seem ok for bashing about. I would like to get some that are more scale looking though.

Decals are a combination of bits and bobs I had laying around. My LHS had some Hornet decals for sale so I mainly used those.

[backtomyroots 432]

mobias, killer G1 ! You have nearly convinced me to build mine .

[mobias 0]

mobias, killer G1 ! You have nearly convinced me to build mine .

Cheers. Go for it, its a simple little build. You can pretty much do most of it in an afternoon or evening. If you're going to run yours then I suggest doing what I've done and just stick a stock silver can in there and have fun with it as rock basher before deciding whether or not to make it a dedicated crawler or not.

[backtomyroots 432]

If you're going to run yours. . . .

, blasphemy !

But, thanks for the tip on the motor. Have you any video f it running at top end ?

[TWINSET 1793]

Forgive him Christopher, he knows not what he's saying

It is a good crack though, maybe treat yourself to a second one to thrash - mine was on it's roof and bent up before the first battery ran flat

[mobias 0]

, blasphemy !

But, thanks for the tip on the motor. Have you any video f it running at top end ?

I'll try and take a little film of it running this weekend with its 27 turn silver can in there so you can get an idea of speed. This guy's got a stock silver can in his but he's running lipo's so its a bit faster. There's a couple of short bits where he's going full throttle http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkSvEPV8_74 He's also go 4WS, which looks like a good addition because the turning circle of the R1 is pretty dreadful with front steering only. Not great for bashing.

I can totally understand you not wanting to run some of your beautiful trucks but I think the R1 is definitely worth running. One of the reasons I've really taken to the whole scale crawler thing is that your truck actually looks better once its been run, all the mud and dirt really adds to the look.