Cost Of Restorations?

[Old Falcon Lad]

All

I've bought a few wrecks from eBay to start my restoring career, and just wondered if the average restoration project usually ends up as costing more than buying a new kit or complete model? I'm doing these as a labour of love, but can already see the decision could be hard as to whether a car is indeed a project or just a donar for parts!!

What do you all look for when considering a 'project' car? I guess this will depend on rarity, patience and enthusiasm!

P

[Gruntfuggly]

It will almost definitely cost more to restore than to buy a new kit, but where is the fun in simply buying a kit?

[berman]

I've heard a few people say that the best thing to look for is completeness in a second hand RC, as it will cost you less to restore in the long run.

I have yet to take heed to this, and have a few restored tamiya's that have cost me more than a NIB counterpart.

You are better off paying a little bit more for a complete or near complete than the cheapest wreck IF you want to restore it.

If you just want a runner and to drive the pants off it and see how many cartwheels it can do, then by all means, get a cheap wreck

[SteelRat]

From my own point of view, I've never restored a car to the kind of "Just built from a NIB" kind of quality that many would see as a true restoration, largely because I always want to run the cars that I build. I tend to replace the bodyshell anyway, so all I'm concerned with is the general quality of the chassis. I'd never pay for a complete wreck, but if the general condition is OK, all the bits are there and there are no major breakages, it provides a good basis for the project car. Additionally, I've found that my first year in the hobby was a lot more costly as I've gradually built up a stock of various spares. This year, I've spent a lot less because I've had spares lying around from other projects.

As you rightly say, if the car is too much of a wreck, it's not really good for anything other than donor spares.

To answer your question, I'd say my project cars don't cost more than the equivalent NIB if you compare stock parts, but they're usually heavily modded, so that's what tends to bump the cost up.

[Old Falcon Lad]

From my own point of view, I've never restored a car to the kind of "Just built from a NIB" kind of quality that many would see as a true restoration, largely because I always want to run the cars that I build. I tend to replace the bodyshell anyway, so all I'm concerned with is the general quality of the chassis. I'd never pay for a complete wreck, but if the general condition is OK, all the bits are there and there are no major breakages, it provides a good basis for the project car. Additionally, I've found that my first year in the hobby was a lot more costly as I've gradually built up a stock of various spares. This year, I've spent a lot less because I've had spares lying around from other projects.

As you rightly say, if the car is too much of a wreck, it's not really good for anything other than donor spares.

To answer your question, I'd say my project cars don't cost more than the equivalent NIB if you compare stock parts, but they're usually heavily modded, so that's what tends to bump the cost up.

Thanks for the replies guys. I can see what you mean - bit of initial cost buying tools, paints, greases etc, plus a few dodgy buys off eBay. I now have a Hornet, Bear Hawk and Super Sabre in various states of disrepair, but I think I'll start with the Hornet. For project #4, I may look for something more complete as per your sage advice! But for me the most fun will be in finding the parts and building them again. And now I'm prepared for the costs!!!!

Paul

[SteelRat]

Just a word of warning Paul, this thing gets addictive, as I can kind of see you already know!

Out of interest, does your name come from your first car? My very first ebay wreck was a Falcon. Paid 30 quid for it, and it formed the basis of my Taisan Beetle that's in my showroom (if you're interested )

[Old Falcon Lad]

Just a word of warning Paul, this thing gets addictive, as I can kind of see you already know!

Out of interest, does your name come from your first car? My very first ebay wreck was a Falcon. Paid 30 quid for it, and it formed the basis of my Taisan Beetle that's in my showroom (if you're interested )

Yes, rumbled. I too was a kid in the mid-80s and had a Falcon. Only just getting back into Tamiya models, a scarey amount on years on (22ish I think!!). I've already drawn up a fairly unachievable list of cars I want to put together again, mostly based on the ones I remember from school days. What do you reckon to this lot, which probably dates my era:

1. Grasshopper l

2. Hornet

3. Falcon

4. Fox

5. Hotshot 1

6. Hotshot 2

7. Boomerang

8. Supershot

9. Bigwig

10 = Midnight Pumpkin

10 = Bullhead

Now I already realise that 4, 8, 9 and 10b are pretty dear, so this could take a while or a minor lottery win!

PS I have a small lad who's 2, and already taking an interest!

[bside]

I'm currently restoring a 1991 Mudblaster and I'll have spent $200+ when all is said and done. Keep in mind the body and paint alone are about 50$ and electronics were the next major expense.

Most of the spare parts, chassis, screw bags, hop ups, etc were relatively cheap ranging from $1-15.

A re-issued Subaru Brat kit goes for about $120 on ebay so if I didn't have an affinity for my 19-year old kit, I would have likely saved by buying a new kit and even upgrading it.

Could have fixed it for under 50 but I wanted to modernize it a bit. The truck will be 90% new when complete.

With the exception of the electronics and the body, most mods are vintage or re-issue parts as to stay true to the vintage nature of the truck. All found on ebay..

Here's a rundown of the parts I've ordered (prices do not include shipping):

New chassis parts tree (grey) - $8

New rear axle set from frog/brat - $15

New set of Tamiya Pin Spike Monster Tires (4) - $18

Full set of Yeah Racing blue teflon coated bearings - $10

2 sets of Yeah Racing 80mm aluminum dampers (with extra steering components) - $27

CRP reinforced rear shock mounts - $6

CRP front shock tower support (missing 3rd piece to attach to rear shocks/mounts so decided to fabricated custom brackets to connect to frame) - $6

Losi Sport adjustable steering rods 2.5" (to work with centered servo) - $6

New original diff gears - $1.50

New metal transmission bearings 850 - $2

New updated metal rear suspension holders (from Brat) - $2

4 screw bags - $10

New Tamiya 540 motor - $5

Traxxas XL-5 waterproof ESC - $28 (I love ebay!)

Traxxas TQ transmitter and micro-receiver - (gift)

Traxxas weaterproof receiver box - $2

Only items left to purchase are:

Aluminum rear body mount brace - $35 (with shipping)

Body - $40

Items to be re-used:

Most of the transmission assembly including metal gears, spacers, motor mount

Front and rear arms

front shock tower

Rear body mounts

Front bumper

Original Acoms Servo

Hope this helps.. PM me if you have any questions..

Seb

[Old Falcon Lad]

Cheers Seb,

I can see how this can happen! I'm working on a Hornet that was in a shocking state and a Bear Hawk that was a bit better, and I have a list of parts needed that's pretty long! But tracking down the parts is all part of the fun isn't it? If I wanted a new car I could just go and buy a kit tomorrow!

I'll try and keep track of costs though!

[bside]

Cheers Seb,

I can see how this can happen! I'm working on a Hornet that was in a shocking state and a Bear Hawk that was a bit better, and I have a list of parts needed that's pretty long! But tracking down the parts is all part of the fun isn't it? If I wanted a new car I could just go and buy a kit tomorrow!

I'll try and keep track of costs though!

Have to agree with you on that.. My brand new Slash is giving me dirty looks from across the room while I obsess over an old beat-up Tamiya

This was my first ebay experience as well and I'm totally hooked!

My first RC back in the late 80s was a Falcon.. wish I still had that kickin' around...

[MAD RACER]

I find that i Re realise kits make a restore so much easyier.

Im restoring 3 Hot Shot 2,s from a poor state.

So Far its cost me a new Boomerang Kit and a heaps of new Hot Shot parts.

Really if you dont enjoy cleaning and reaplacing parts you would be better off buying a re re kit if its out.

I Bought a original Hot Shot of my mate for $20 as it was so bad he was going to throw in the bin. After 3 cans of degreaser, over 30 hrs and a heap of new parts it cost me close to a new re re one. But this a original with all the original parts. I bought a Super Shot of the bay from the states and cost me $530 posted. New Re Hot Shot is $230. By the Time i pulled it down and replaced all worn out and broken bits it needed a re re kit as a doner. That Was expensive. Its a runner too. It looked to be in really good nic but lots of parts were cracked or held in place with C.A glue.

Its the luck of the draw i say.

[RichieRich]

In the last couple of years, I've restored and built 3 RC10s using NIB parts. It can get quite expensive. Building a new stealth transmission from NIB parts can cost just about $100. If you factor in ebay, prices can get out-of-hand quite fast. I enjoy bringing old stuff back from the dead so the enjoyment outweighs the prices. Currently, I have three restoration projects going and I know one is going to cost me a pretty penny.

[Old Falcon Lad]

In the last couple of years, I've restored and built 3 RC10s using NIB parts. It can get quite expensive. Building a new stealth transmission from NIB parts can cost just about $100. If you factor in ebay, prices can get out-of-hand quite fast. I enjoy bringing old stuff back from the dead so the enjoyment outweighs the prices. Currently, I have three restoration projects going and I know one is going to cost me a pretty penny.

Yep, it's the bringing an old unpromising heap of junk back to life that interest me too. I have a Hornet that I want to get back working, pretty much standard rebuild, plus a Bear Hawk that will get upgraded wheels, shocks, motor and ESC if I can afford it. On that, would you think a Sports Tuned would be about the best choice for the BH, with a 15T pinion? I'm thinking this plus TEU-101BK, plus some Dyna Storm rims and rubber. Also leaning away from Box Art and towards a hot orange paint job! Thoughts?

P

[TA-Mark]

Yep, it's the bringing an old unpromising heap of junk back to life that interest me too. I have a Hornet that I want to get back working, pretty much standard rebuild, plus a Bear Hawk that will get upgraded wheels, shocks, motor and ESC if I can afford it. On that, would you think a Sports Tuned would be about the best choice for the BH, with a 15T pinion? I'm thinking this plus TEU-101BK, plus some Dyna Storm rims and rubber. Also leaning away from Box Art and towards a hot orange paint job! Thoughts?

P

Restoring can be expensive and you only really do it for the enjoyment of seeing something transform from a pile of junk into a thing of beauty. The Fox I bought second hand and then repaired into a usable runner ended up costing me more than it would have to just go buy a rare NIB kit. The Fox.

Better motor for the Bear Hawk would be the Tamiya 27T Dirt Tuned combined with the TEU101-BK ESC. I was impressed with this combination in a 2WD buggy. The Dirt Tuned has an included dust cover which protects the motor from the dirt being showered up off the rear wheels.

DF03 alloy or plastic CVA dampers fit to the Bear Hawk nicely and are much better than the kit pogo sticks.

When you upgrade the wheels on the Bear Hawk, if you keep it on the kit sized 2.0" wheels, the best pinion size to use with a 27 turn motor is a 17T 32dp steel (From an E-maxx). The Dyna-Storm wheels are Tamiya Star Dish 2.16" and the 17T pinion works best with this size as the tyres are very low profile. If you Increase the wheel size to the current DT02 2.2" wheels (Same as DF03 on the rear), I would recommend going with the 15T 32dp steel pinion with the 27 turn motor (again from an E-maxx). The kit alloy pinions are very soft and wearout quickly.

Another worthwhile option is to fit a DF02 Assembly Universal shaft set on the rear. These fit without any needed modification.

I think it would look great in hot orange and nice 'n easy to see! I plan to paint mine yellow (no surprises there).

Mock up in the art program to see what a change in body and decal colour would look like.

[JeepnMike]

Yes, rumbled. I too was a kid in the mid-80s and had a Falcon. Only just getting back into Tamiya models, a scarey amount on years on (22ish I think!!). I've already drawn up a fairly unachievable list of cars I want to put together again, mostly based on the ones I remember from school days. What do you reckon to this lot, which probably dates my era:

1. Grasshopper l

2. Hornet

3. Falcon

4. Fox

5. Hotshot 1

6. Hotshot 2

7. Boomerang

8. Supershot

9. Bigwig

10 = Midnight Pumpkin

10 = Bullhead

Now I already realise that 4, 8, 9 and 10b are pretty dear, so this could take a while or a minor lottery win!

PS I have a small lad who's 2, and already taking an interest!

LOL. My small lad just turned 3, just old enough to know where the throttle is and find the next un-movable object to mangle your pride and joy.

If I can add anything to this thread and looking at your top 10 above, take into consideration available parts at the moment! 6 of your 10 have re-releases so parts are much easier to get. I have been trying to find suspension parts from a Supershot and Hotshot II and it is slim pickings (even tooling around ebay daily). I also bought a beat Hotshot with every intention of doing a full restore and ended up buying a re-re and using the other for spare parts. I realized that all of the parts needed to restore was going to cost more than it would to buy a new kit. I have no intention of putting mine on shelves so I just couldn't justify the time and $ towards something I would enjoy abusing and repairing.

[Old Falcon Lad]

LOL. My small lad just turned 3, just old enough to know where the throttle is and find the next un-movable object to mangle your pride and joy.

If I can add anything to this thread and looking at your top 10 above, take into consideration available parts at the moment! 6 of your 10 have re-releases so parts are much easier to get. I have been trying to find suspension parts from a Supershot and Hotshot II and it is slim pickings (even tooling around ebay daily). I also bought a beat Hotshot with every intention of doing a full restore and ended up buying a re-re and using the other for spare parts. I realized that all of the parts needed to restore was going to cost more than it would to buy a new kit. I have no intention of putting mine on shelves so I just couldn't justify the time and $ towards something I would enjoy abusing and repairing.

Thanks for all the great advice guys, I'll put it to good use. So what were the 6 releases - GH, Hornet, Boomerang, Hotshot, MP and one other? My top 10 is just a wish list, and I have no time frame in mind to complete it! Points noted on costs of rebuilds vs new kits though! I have ideas of building a Bigwig up from bits, but that way probably leads to the dark side...

Mark, your Hawk would look good in the yellow. Are you gonna stick with the speed discs or upgrade? And your tires are nearly as slick as the ones I inherited!

[TA-Mark]

Mark, your Hawk would look good in the yellow. Are you gonna stick with the speed discs or upgrade? And your tires are nearly as slick as the ones I inherited!

Honestly I can't stand the speed disc wheels. They look like they belong on a plough.

I've run my Bear Hawk with the Dyna-Storm wheels and it handles great with them (borrowed the set from my DT02MS) just to see what it went like. Square spike tyres on the rear and rib/spike on the front. For looks though and to keep the buggy looking as scale as I can, I have fitted Buggy Champ (3 piece) Wheels to it. I attempt to make my hard bodied buggys look as scale as possible.

I've changed the front skip plate to a nudgebar. Added Grasshopper nerf bars to the side. Added Fox bar work around the motor on the rear. Added rollbars inside the cockpit. Added a spare wheel atop the rear bar work. Added 4 spotlights and tail lights with LEDs. Repositioned the front dampers to the rear side of the front towers. Fitted turnbuckle upper links. Fitted Thundershot universals. Messed with the steering geometry to remove the bumpsteer. I'm also powering it with a 4600Kv MambaMax brushless system and IP4000 Li-Po. It's changed the appearance and drive quite a bit.

No photos yet! Not until I'm finished.

I have a 2nd Bear Hawk body that I intend to fit to a DF01 chassis with Buggy Champ rear wheels all round for a 4WD Bear Hawk. Same modifications to the appearance.

I have a feeling the DT02MS's ball diff will fit too. Still need to test fit the one from the DT02MS and if it does fit, buy the Bear Hawk one.

[Old Falcon Lad]

Honestly I can't stand the speed disc wheels. They look like they belong on a plough.

I've run my Bear Hawk with the Dyna-Storm wheels and it handles great with them (borrowed the set from my DT02MS) just to see what it went like. Square spike tyres on the rear and rib/spike on the front.

Mark, do you have the part ref numbers for these tyres and wheels by any chance? Sounds like what I'm after. And your beast sounds great, can't wait to see the pics.

Paul

[TA-Mark]

Rear:

Tamiya #53084 - Square Spike Rear Tire (1 Pair)

Tamiya #53093 - Spire Spike Rear Tire (1 Pair)

Tamiya #53086 - Rear Star-Dish Wheels (1 Pair)

Front:

Tamiya #53083 - 2WD Rib-Spike Front Tires (1 Pair)

Tamiya #53094 - 2WD Triple Rib Front Tires (1 Pair)

Tamiya #53085 - 2WD Front Star-Dish Wheels (1 Pair)

I have both types of tyres in my spares depending on the running conditions. I get better bite from the square spikes on very loose dirt. I wouldn't recommend you run these on sealed surfaces. Triple rib on the front and a road hawg on the rear for tarmac driving.

I have these wheels fitted to most of my 'racer' type models. They are even on the DF03MS in my avatar.