Removing & Stripping Paint From Lexan Polycarbonate

[VagabondStarJXF 350]

This thread needs to focus on the polycarbonate aspect

True. Sorry for changing the focus on it but I figured that if it works on both then that's a major bonus.

[Hibernaculum 933]

Oh no, that's fine I am just hoping that Corona Powered's goal of making this the "lexan paint stripping thread to rule them all" is fulfilled. I need to find this De-solv-it stuff myself now, as I have some bodies to try. I will look into it and report back if I have any success.

H.

[HunterZero 76]

We need to focus in particular on removing cured Tamiya PS paint, since it so far resists removal except by chemicals that destroy the polycarbonate like acetone.

And has anyone managed to get hold of a bottle of Tamiya polycarbonate body cleaner yet and given that a try on PS paint?

- James

[Shanks 5]

Just tried another poly bodyshell with the de solv it stuff last night & it had no problems removing the white paint it was backed with or the day-glow pink the front part was painted in but it has lightly fogged the plastic & is having problems removing the other paints that are on the body, so De solv it easily removes some makes of paint but as all the shells I've stripped with it so far were all bought second hand I have no idea what paints were used on them.

[HunterZero 76]

OK, made it to the hobby shop yesterday, and saw that they had the Tamiya polycarbonate body cleaner in stock, so I thought I'd give it a try.

I have a touring car shell with well-cured PS1 white paint to test on, and....

What do you know, it worked!

You apply a small bit at a time with a rag, and rub it just like the video, and the paint gradually comes off. It is slow going, but I did clean off the roof of the car within 15 mins or so, and hardly used any cleaner, so one bottle should do around 2 shells.

- James

[Corona Powered 1]

Wow. That is awesome news about the Tamiya Polycarbonate body cleaner. I'll have to get some. Off to the hobby shop...

Is it similar to Parma Fashine?

[HunterZero 76]

Is it similar to Parma Fashine?

No. It smells rather like the PS paint itself, sort of like ketone nail varnish remover, so I'd imagine it's the same thinner used in the cans. Fashine was more citrus, and Fashine didn't budge cured PS paint.

- James

[Live Steam Mad 17]

No. It smells rather like the PS paint itself, sort of like ketone nail varnish remover, so I'd imagine it's the same thinner used in the cans. Fashine was more citrus, and Fashine didn't budge cured PS paint.

- James

Fascinating. I will probably recognise the smell from Chemistry lessons at A level LOL. Excellent news that it works on cured PS paints!

I wonder if the solvent will damage Styrene? Any chance that someone could try some on a cracked old shell?

Wish that my LHS Vulcan Hobbies was a Tamiya dealer but alas despite years of pleading no chance. I'll have to try ModelZone for mine.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[HunterZero 76]

Fascinating. I will probably recognise the smell from Chemistry lessons at A level LOL. Excellent news that it works on cured PS paints!

It is slow going though, I'll tell you now. You can only really work on a small 3cm diameter patch at a time.

- James

[Hibernaculum 933]

Still, if you use those soft Tamiya cloths, and if the results aren't cloudy....

It will be worth all the effort

James, is the plastic clear afterward in your test?

H.

[HunterZero 76]

Still, if you use those soft Tamiya cloths, and if the results aren't cloudy....

It will be worth all the effort

James, is the plastic clear afterward in your test?

H.

Yes, plastic is clear. I used soft tissues, not a cloth. Depending on the cloth you use, you'll use it up out of the bottle faster. After a bit more work, I'd say you could do one shell with one bottle, but you'd be pushing it to do more than 1 and 1/2 with one bottle.

- James

[Hibernaculum 933]

Can I ask where you bought the Polycarbonate body cleaner from? Or if anyone knows any stores in Australia that have it?

I rang the Tamiya importer (or their outlet), and naturally their answer was:

"Never heard of it. Is it a new product?".

FAIL.

H.

[Crash Cramer 617]

I too would love to hear what part number Tamiya has put on the Lexan shell cleaner or what ever name they gave it. I also wonder if you can use a soft bristled toothbrush to agitate and apply the cleaner. I can't wait to find me some, is it in the USA yet, anyone know???

Thanks for THE thread to get to the bottom of cleaning paint from our precious and hard and/or expensive to replace bodyshells.

[Hibernaculum 933]

It's called Tamiya Polycarbonate Body Cleaner. Item 87118. Google for those details and you should find some online stores that have it. But you'll probably need to find one from your own country as it may not be something you can import (I know you can't in Australia).

Also, I sent Hunterzero a PM a week ago to ask where he found it, but I never got a reply. So I rang around and eventually found it. In the Sydney area, you can get it from Hobbyco for $9 a bottle. However, other hobby stores seem to have no idea it exists yet.

Cheers,

H.

[Crash Cramer 617]

Thanks for the item number, you think you have it bad finding it, TamiyaUSA doesn't even know what it is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now that is how it feels to be a Tamiya nut in the USA. Thank YOU

[Hibernaculum 933]

I too can confirm that this stuff works.

I have a mint, original Frog body that I painted about 6 months ago with Tamiya PS paints, and I wasn't happy with the colour.

Using a Tamiya cloth, this new product is removing the paint leaving the lexan clear.

It takes a lot of time, but it gets there. It's not something I would want to do very often - cleaning a whole body will take many hours.

Also, there is a caveat I think.

In some places, after rubbing the paint away, I have noticed the lexan develop some tiny internal hairline cracks. That is, the body doesn't crack but, at certain angles under light, you can see the internal composition of the lexan has developed tiny, tiny cracks.

It does not appear to seriously compromise the strength of the body, but of course I have not tested this yet. It just shows though, what terrible material lexan is. It is strong initially, but the mere removal of paint using a delicate product by the same company, can affect it. And of course if it cracks it can't be repaired. I really hate lexan for these reasons, and would rather have a more breakable body plastic on all cars that can actually be repaired.

Cheers,

H.

[Splended 4]

I have stripped several body shells, with mostly very good results, and I did experience something new with every shell. Sometimes I noticed hairline cracks when finnished, other times it was the fogginess that catched my eyes. That made me think that I was doing it the wrong way. Too much liquid? Did the liquid attac the polycarbonate? Well, typical things like that. But when I finally got the time to repaint one shell, I noticed that all the hairline cracks and fogginess disappeared. That left me realize that it's the paint itself that causes the damages. Not me or the liquid I use.

So, my message is: Don't panic if the shell seems damaged after a paint strip. Take your time and do your best when repainting, and it will turn out just fine!

Since paint removing is time consuming, and doesn't always turn out as planned, I am now mostly using "Faskolor" paint. It makes my life easier if I want to change colour or fix a terrible airbrush job :-) I just use my Tamiya paint boxes as a reference to get the colour right when mixing the Faskolor.

[Live Steam Mad 17]

Since paint removing is time consuming, and doesn't always turn out as planned, I am now mostly using "Faskolor" paint. It makes my life easier if I want to change colour or fix a terrible airbrush job :-) I just use my Tamiya paint boxes as a reference to get the colour right when mixing the Faskolor.

Or use Tamiya PC paints? They are still able to be found from time to time on Ebay and a UK shop in the Channel Islands. I grabbed several pots of PC paint in the last few months to paint my Frog with. I wrote a Frog brush painting (came out looking as good as spray cans) guide also here on TC.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[HunterZero 76]

Sorry, I've been away from Tamiya for a bit, indulging in my other hobby - the lead role in the NSW premiere of a musical.

Mine came from Hobbyco in the QVB. I need another bottle, so please don't buy them out, leave me some!

Also, there is a caveat I think.

In some places, after rubbing the paint away, I have noticed the lexan develop some tiny internal hairline cracks. That is, the body doesn't crack but, at certain angles under light, you can see the internal composition of the lexan has developed tiny, tiny cracks.

I found that when rubbing the bodyshell, it can generate quite a bit of heat. I think it's this heat that is doing what you are seeing. You just have to go really slow, and don't rub too vigorously.

I had the same thing happen when trying to remove paint from lexan with polish and a slow dremel and felt tip.

- James

[WillyChang 1814]

when you rub the lexan too much, the material will fatigue... that's most likely causing the hairline cracking you see

its a real funny liquid inho, just leaving it on the paint doesn't really do much - until you rub & rub & rub

haha you guys must've missed the pictorial --> http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=56172

[Calmac12 1]

Here are my experiences with De-Solv-it graffiti cleanup.(Not sure of availability outside the UK).

It worked well for me easily removing the original paint which I don't think was Tamiya PS. The polycarbonate was left badly clouded. Some could be removed with wire wool. I painted it as normal anyway and the clouding did not show through at all.

Hope this helps.

[Fried Tyres 48]

Has the body become brittle at all?

Amazing paint job by the way!

Chris.

[Calmac12 1]

Has the body become brittle at all?

Amazing paint job by the way!

Chris.

Thanks Chris,

Body doesn't appear to have gone brittle really, still feels the same. Hard to tell, I think it is fine!

Cheers

[lordraptor1 0]

On ‎1‎/‎28‎/‎2010 at 10:14 AM, Mouton said:

While I am unsure of how you have used the search function and how carefully you have read the threads found, I am sceptical that people really have recommended brake fluid for lexan bodies. It is an absolute no-no!

Brake fluid is only to be used for ABS plastic bodies and never on lexan as it will leave a matte finish and make it very fragile in the process. Same goes for Mr. Muscle Oven Cleaner and other oven cleaner products. Mr. Muscle is an IPMS favourite when it comes to remove paint from plastic models.

And yes, nitro fuel is perfectly safe for lexan, but remember to wear protective gloves. It must sit for a while and you will have to rub with a toothbrush, but the paint will come off without any harmful sideffects.

i have personally used paper towles soaked in dot 4 brake fluid with good results, with no issues.  it is all in the method of application but it is time consuming as badword

[lordraptor1 0]

now some points, first i dont know how you guys are getting nitro fuel to remove paint on polycarbonate, it it was a viable option then thre would be a lot of nitro cars and trucks running around with paintless blotches on the shells.

 

now on to more important matters LOL.  i recently heard of someone using jet UPVC abs cleaner to remove paint however i cant confirm this because the product isnt available in the USA closest i can find to a cleaner is oatey clear cleaner for abs, cpvc, and pvc.  im thinking about picking some up just to try because i can test on a spot on my baja 5b body because i bought a replacement body that came in today for it.  if it works i will let you know however i know it was painted with pactra polycarb and alclad II lacquer so i dont know how it would fair for waterbased paints or the tamiya "acrylics" that reak of alchohol.

 

now if anyone has tried using the oateyABS/CPVC/PVC cleaner please by all means share your insights.

 

one last thing there was a story of someone using simple green, let me just say, ummm NO doesnt work at all.  again i have used pactra polycarb for years and it is now not available so i am going to be moving to createx and wicked colors for my shells which will be my first foray into waterbased/acrylic rc paint.  sure i could go with duratrax who bought the pactra line from testors but not for $8.99 a pop.