Egress Strip And Rebuid

[Meerkat]

Having been persuaded by Paul, (loaded), to keep and run the Egress I thought it might be interesting to post it all on here.

If it's of interest please let me know and I'll continue posting.

Otherwise, I'll just be asking for help.

All the bits bagged and labelled

Front box looks nice and clean.

Which is more than I can say for the rear.

What's left.

I need to strip down the shocks, so does anybody know what oil and how much I should be putting in them please?

Steve

[Missile]

im looking forward to the result

as for the oil.. I assume that some tamiya synthetic damper oil.. probably "soft" given the smallish size of the cylinder would be best.. and put as much oil in them as you can and still fit the inner top cap in (do the shocks have bleed screws?)

but im no expert and i could be wrong.. better to wait for someone who knows a lot more than I

[TIMECMDR]

A very nice project you have there.

There is a manual here on TC to assist you if you don't already have a copy.

Look forward to seeing the completed project, I recommend you subscrbe and then you can list the car and any others you may have in your showroom on Tamiyaclub as well as access to further facilities available on this club.

Regards

[loaded]

Hi Steve,

I am really happy you have decided to restore this car, just please don't be angry with me if you find that you don't have enough money for food...

Looking at it so far, your only problem is wheels and tyres, there are options out there which can be had that aren't as expensive as the brand new box art ones that display builders insist on using most of the time. There are also some corroded metal parts, how bad are they?

Regarding the shocks, I use a syringe to put the oil in, as you are much less likely to get air bubbles in the oil. You need to virtually fill them, trial and error, then cap them. Have you inspected the rubber caps? Are they perished? They might be OK, but it has been a long time. If oil overflows, wipe the thread dry before screwing the caps on.

P.

[94eg!]

Regarding the shocks, I use a syringe to put the oil in, as you are much less likely to get air bubbles in the oil. You need to virtually fill them, trial and error, then cap them. Have you inspected the rubber caps? Are they perished? They might be OK, but it has been a long time. If oil overflows, wipe the thread dry before screwing the caps on.

P.

The correct oil would 400cst. In Tamiya brand this comes in the soft pack and is yellow. You can also buy any other brands 400cst oil to get the same effect. Muchmore is one of the better brands. Simply fill, place the bladder on top, cap em, and be done. There's really no good way to match the amount of oil inside since they have a hole drilled in the upper cap. This means they do not build pressure inside as the piston moves up, therefore you cannot measure rebound. Gently placing the bladder into the oil and soaking up the overflow should provide you with as good a fill as necessary...

BTW: If the bladders inside the shocks are ruined, you can get away with using the front bladders from Tamiya's plastic CVA off-road dampers (from the DF02, DF03, or DB01). They are a thicker rubber, but the same diameter as the HI-Cap ones and seal up perfectly. The Hi-caps are the same inner diameter front & rear as well so you would need 4 front bladders from the CVAs...

PS: Budget about $200(us) for original wheels & tires. At least that's what they cost a few years ago...

[loaded]

That's true, the modern rubber caps will fit fine. Regarding the wheels, 94eg is right, new ones will cost a fortune, however, my thinking for a restoration that is going to be run, buy some second hand ones, there are some on eBay.co.uk right now closing in 5 days. If you need the rubber bladders (I was calling them rubber caps before) I have hundreds I can send you 4 in the post.

Keep well,

Paul.

[loaded]

This guy has put a modern motor in it, but check out the speed of this Egress:

Paul.

[Meerkat]

I hope you guys don't think this is going to be a concours effort

Just drained out the old oil and the rubber caps appear fine, thanks for the offer though Paul.

Just had to stop cleaning stuff as the sink trap had to come apart to retrieve this little fella before it got flushed away....

When will I ever learn?

What parts are you talking about being corroded Paul, there is some surface rust in places which I've already cleaned up, like the Phillips head screws, and the bearing outer races.

I've got a load of oil left over from which I bought ages ago, it's Team Associated pure silicon shock oil in 20, 25, 30, 40, 50, 60, and 80 weights.

Anyone any idea how these compare to the Tamiya colour coded stuff?

I've got a load of 11.1v 2200mAh Lipos that I use for flying, and I just wondered if these could be used with the correct esc and motor?

Thanks for the advice, I'm bound to need more...

Steve

[Meerkat]

Front shocks and diff disassembled and cleaned, and reassembled.

Forgot to take photos or the rear....

Steve

[94eg!]

Front shocks and diff disassembled and cleaned, and reassembled.

Forgot to take photos or the rear....

Steve

Did you use a good ball-diff grease when rebuilding your diffs?

If you find your diffs are not smooth, and they seem to cog (ie tighten & loosen again) every couple turns, rebuild them again. You will notice the metal plates the balls ride against are stamped out in a machine. This gives each plate a side with squared edges, and a side with rounded edges. You want the rounded edges facing away from the diff balls. The square-edge side is much flatter than the round edge side and lets the balls run smooth without tightening up. The same goes for the smaller thrust washer plate. Took me about 5 tries to figure this one out. If your still having trouble getting them smooth, swirl the plate around on some fine grit sand paper (400 or higher) and little dab of bearing oil. The oil will allow the sandpaper to cut smoother and keep the surface uniform. You can tell when your finished when the entire surfact is devoid of high spots. Once ready, wash the plates with dish soap or motor spray to remove the oil and install.

Use zero thrust plate shimms in the rear and about 2 or 3 in the front diff. This is a good combo for a runner. Even with zero shims, these diffs are still pretty tight, so no worries about slippage. The car will handle better with the front diff set a little tighter than the rear.

[Meerkat]

Thanks for that.

I have now adjusted the shims to have the front slighter tighter than the rear, the opposite was true.

Both are smooth, so OK there then.

For 94eg :

Will now start to rebuild the shocks, I take it that 400cst is all round?

Just found a table that says 400 cst is the same as Team Associated 30 weight. so I'll use that.

Steve

[loaded]

If memory serves the Egress and Avante use 1150 type 3 part thrust bearings (a race with balls and two thrust washers). They are awful, throw them away and buy one piece 1150 thrust bearings instead. I have these in my Group C cars and other cars which take this combo. Boomerang takes them, (which means Hotshot, Supershot etc as well) and the Porsche 959 as well.

They are cheap, I have hundreds of them :-)

Paul.

[Meerkat]

If memory serves the Egress and Avante use 1150 type 3 part thrust bearings (a race with balls and two thrust washers). They are awful, throw them away and buy one piece 1150 thrust bearings instead. I have these in my Group C cars and other cars which take this combo. Boomerang takes them, (which means Hotshot, Supershot etc as well) and the Porsche 959 as well.

They are cheap, I have hundreds of them :-)

Paul.

I've done a search for 1150 one piece thrust bearings, but I'm not sure what I'm actually looking for, have you got a link where I could get them from please?

Steve

[loaded]

On eBay if you type in 'One Piece Thrust Bearing' it is all that shows up :-)

I have a bunch if you want, just PM me, or buy from eBay!

Paul.

[94eg!]

On eBay if you type in 'One Piece Thrust Bearing' it is all that shows up :-)

I have a bunch if you want, just PM me, or buy from eBay!

Paul.

If your diffs are smooth, don't worry about the thrusts. Possible upgrade for the future though. Nice to know they fit...

BTW: Good to know 400cst is ~ 30wt. It's hard to find conversion tables because oil measured in "weight" has a large variance from brand to brand. CST is nice becuase it's an international standard. One brands CST should be the same as another (at least at room temp).

[WillyChang]

just use 30/35/40wt in those shocks and they'll be fine - not like you're going to be seriously racing that Egress?

[loaded]

He is going to race and he is going to win :-)

[Meerkat]

just use 30/35/40wt in those shocks and they'll be fine - not like you're going to be seriously racing that Egress?

Ah, but there's a difference between serious and competitive. (Just ask the Portsmouth manager).

Steve

[skip665]

Love it

Pulling an old Tamiya out of the loft and then stripping, cleaning, restoring, and then running - even better when its one you have had for years rather than just an ePay purchase

More pics please!

[Meerkat]

While I wait for those nice thrust bearings......

I've got an old Novak T4 esc and a cheap 27Mhz steer wheel type Tx and receiver, but just wondered if it's worth going lipo and brushless.

If I am going to use the old stuff, what brushed motor would you guys recommend and what tooth pinion to go with it?

And if brushless, can I use the 2200mAh 3s batteries I've got already, and what's a nice good value esc/motor set up?

Also, anyone know where I can get some realistic looking wheels and tyres from, (can't afford $200!), and a repro body shell?

Steve

[loaded]

I would recommend the Dynatech O2H motor, if you are after performance, as it is the highest performing motor from that era. Purists will say you should use a Dynatech 01R in this car, but you could also use a Technigold if you wanted old school. The Egress came with a 17T, 18T, 19T and 20T in the box, I assume you haven't found these? If you have, I would go Dynatech and 18T.

Now you are waiting for that annoying guy living in Czech to send you some thrust bearings, you can concentrate on the body. Have you done a close inspection, is it cracked all round, or just badly painted ? Nitro fuel is something many people here use to remove old polycarbonate paint, hoping that is what you painted it with way back then. If the car is painted inside, a quick repaint could be done outside, although personally I don't like this, many people swear by this as an easy way to repaint. Regarding the wheels and tyres, if you don't need to go boxart, there are other hex wheels that will fit.

Paul.

[Meerkat]

The body isn't bad, it's just cracked a bit at the narrow bit at the front.

Is there a good way to repair these splits, other than diamond tape?

Steve

[loaded]

Have a search on the forums here, there are loads of tips, some involving using special glue and strips of polycarbonate to strenghten the cracks from behind :-)

The search engine is your friend!

Paul.

[wolfdogstinkus]

I have used this stuff with good results on a runner lexan shell.

http://www.leisureshopdirect.com/LargeImag...amp;ProductID=0

I just put a patch on the back of the damage, wait for it to set hard and then file or sand to shape.

[Live Steam Mad]

Doesn't anyone do a repro. Egress body?

Regards,

ARG