crash alot 1 Posted February 9, 2010 high guys looking at racing a tamiya buggy just cause love the tamiya brand and its good fun sticking it to the badge snobs lol but which one would be better for me to get the db01 or the df03 im going to be running brushless in it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TA-Mark 195 Posted February 9, 2010 The DB01!! I have 7 worn DF03 alloy mainshaft gears that says the DB01 is better for brushless. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HunterZero 77 Posted February 10, 2010 +1 for DB01. Belt drive is almost bulletproof (but you will need a slipper clutch to protect the diffs, and possibly the stronger 501X diff parts), and it's a better handling car. - James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Power Surge 0 Posted February 10, 2010 +1 more for DB01. I have a Durga for sale if you are interested. PM me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
94eg! 837 Posted February 10, 2010 DB01. With a few hop-ups, it can hang with the big-boys... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jkyamog 18 Posted February 10, 2010 See older thread here: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=54656 I think the general consensus is DB-01, unless you really want shaft driven and/or you get a good deal w/ DF-03 or DF-03MS. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crash alot 1 Posted February 10, 2010 okay thanks guys for all your help im going to get a db01r kit but do u guys no what the front one way unit is and is it worth running it? also the post that u put up i been reading through and they were on about using a 501 diffs are they exactly the same then the diffs in a dbo1 and 501 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
94eg! 837 Posted February 10, 2010 okay thanks guys for all your help im going to get a db01r kit but do u guys no what the front one way unit is and is it worth running it? also the post that u put up i been reading through and they were on about using a 501 diffs are they exactly the same then the diffs in a dbo1 and 501 With the "R" version, you need to purchase wheels, tires and body separately. Factor this into the cost. One-way diff and/or center is only usefull as a tuning aid for racing. If you just want to have fun on a track, don't waste your money. It makes your brakes non-functional, so is only good in certain situations. It also makes it very difficult to take different lines and defend your position (at least in on-road I've experienced this). The 501X all-metal diff halves are a direct replacment for the half-plastic DB01 diff halves. The mian difference is they are more durable and consistent and they don't require you to glue the diff ring into place. Simply assemble and install. Having said that, I've run a Durga with a 14X4 motor w/ slipper, and another with a 15x2 motor and no slipper. Neither car has had any trouble with it's kit half-plastic diffs. As long as you set the diffs tight enough, they will not slip. I set the rear diff so the wheels stop spinning within a full turn when given a fast spin with my open palm. I set the front tighter than the rear (~3/4 turn when spun). If I have a slipper, I make sure it's tight enough to provide the punch I need, yet loose enough that it slips before the diff. This is not an easy thing to setup if you've never done it before. But after you understand how it works, it's a simple process... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
novaturbo 0 Posted February 28, 2010 The DB01!! I have 7 worn DF03 alloy mainshaft gears that says the DB01 is better for brushless. I've just ordered my second replacement, it's cheap to replace if you do so before it fails. But once it fails it's an expensive mess. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
highflyer 73 Posted March 2, 2010 DB01 hands down, did you buy one yet? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crash alot 1 Posted March 2, 2010 DB01 hands down, did you buy one yet? hi yeah have got it and been running it and won the b finals on sunday agaist pepole running b44 and b4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VinceVegaUK 0 Posted March 2, 2010 thats the why to do it :-p i did the same at my local in Bury (mancheaster) where do you race? i love my DB01, im running ezrun 5.5t and 20c lipo and goes like stink, i run a slipper and TRF dampers too. I just need some shue yellow tyres ready for the new outdoor season in april. I dont race in regiounals just casual and it does good against the B4's in fact most of the guys that have the $$$ have bought or upgraded from a DB01 to the 501x. later VV Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crash alot 1 Posted March 2, 2010 i race at reading and im running same brand motor but 8.5turn funny thing is they hate tamiyas all the club members and all they go on about is ae kit but so funny when u hammer them Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WW-nut 0 Posted March 2, 2010 i race at reading and im running same brand motor but 8.5turn funny thing is they hate tamiyas all the club members and all they go on about is ae kit but so funny when u hammer them Crash alot, where's the club at Reading? Couldn't find it on the BRCA website http://www.brca.org/ ta Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
highflyer 73 Posted March 2, 2010 hi yeah have got it and been running it and won the b finals on sunday agaist pepole running b44 and b4 Great to hear .. I get the "what is that" and "never heard of it" when I raced my 501X. Local offroaders are AE or Losi fans where I live.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Azkuma 0 Posted April 5, 2010 Hey guys, I've been looking at the Durga for a while now and wasn't sure which route to go to get one as I was thinking of the DB01-R or straight DB01 plus hop ups. When i did the calculation it works out cheaper to get the R then add wheels etc, but I just won a bid on ebay for a BNIB (factory sealed) DB01 + Futaba radio + battery + charger all for £150 So now I got one () can anyone tell me the difference between the carbon reinforced chassis and the high traction chassis apart from the visual ones (and cost) on the carbon one with the slots cut out at the battery location? Why would you use one instead of the other? Seems that I've been having luck on the DB as I also got a blue alu motor mount coming my way all for the princely sum of $0.99 + postage($4 ) again on ebay and that was my only bid . I guess I'm like a kid with a new toy and, oh hold on, I do have a new toy..... I've got a fully hopped up DF03 (Dark Impact) and a NIB DF03 Avante but I had a few issue running my Impact at my local track (Eden Park Raceway) and always came away with bits falling off or braking with the front suspension mount, carbon/alu, buckled and ripped holes on the gear mounting on part A5. Guys at the track told me to ditch it and go for an Associated or a Schumacher Cat or some such as they are quite fragile but I've been a Tamiya boy all my days so I didn't want to be same as those guys with their fancy sponsored cars an plus 'Da Durga' looks awesome and I'm glad I got it. Now I got 6 x 4WD in total and I'm still looking for more. (Must......get.........Super Shot...............somehow....) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
94eg! 837 Posted April 5, 2010 Standard chassis is fiberglass w/ medium flex. Carbon chassis is carbon fiber w/ low flex, holes below the batteries (what was Tamiya thinking here), and requires the motor heatsink plate. High Traction chassis is fiberglass w/ lots of flex and requires the motor heatsink plate... No reason to upgrade the chassis if you start with the regular fiberglass. Personally I don't get why The DB01-R includes a high-flex chassis and control arms, but then gives you a bunch carbon reinforced support pieces. I think they were just trying to pack in every hopup weather it makes sense or not... You will want to upgrade to carbon or aluminum suspension mounts and metal suspension balls. The standard parts allow the arms to pop out in a large crash. This doesn't really break anything, but the small spacers and balls get lost easily... BTW: I have that same 3-racing blue motor mount. It's not TRF blue and it requires more shims than normal... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeepnMike 150 Posted April 5, 2010 BTW: I have that same 3-racing blue motor mount. It's not TRF blue and it requires more shims than normal... Not to hijack a thread, but what are you talking about with more shims? I just installed the same motor mount in mine and it seems to go in fine and the spur gear and slipper clutch seemed to fit fine. Did I miss something? If I have to tear that thing apart again, that is gonna suck. LOL I already built it once with the stock mount and tore it all apart (diffs, etc.) to put in the aftermarket motor mount. While I am asking, is there a good source for 3Racing parts in the US? I think I have found the end of the internet and can only find places overseas. Thanks!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spaint2k 0 Posted April 5, 2010 The DB01!! I have 7 worn DF03 alloy mainshaft gears that says the DB01 is better for brushless. How does the DB01 run in your region? I know from your posts that belt-driven vehicles usually end up ruined because of the local conditions, so I'm wondering how well sealed the DB01 really is. Cheers, Steve Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Azkuma 0 Posted April 5, 2010 Standard chassis is fiberglass w/ medium flex.Carbon chassis is carbon fiber w/ low flex, holes below the batteries (what was Tamiya thinking here), and requires the motor heatsink plate. High Traction chassis is fiberglass w/ lots of flex and requires the motor heatsink plate... No reason to upgrade the chassis if you start with the regular fiberglass. Personally I don't get why The DB01-R includes a high-flex chassis and control arms, but then gives you a bunch carbon reinforced support pieces. I think they were just trying to pack in every hopup weather it makes sense or not... You will want to upgrade to carbon or aluminum suspension mounts and metal suspension balls. The standard parts allow the arms to pop out in a large crash. This doesn't really break anything, but the small spacers and balls get lost easily... BTW: I have that same 3-racing blue motor mount. It's not TRF blue and it requires more shims than normal... Ok but if you upgrade the motor and go with a brushless setup wont you need/require the motor plate for additional cooling effect? I've heard that some motors can melt the standard chassis in that position hence the chassis/motor plate options. I could be cynical and think that the standard chassis was poorly designed and gave Tamiya an excuse to sell more parts but hey, that's if i'm being cynical . So let me see if i understand the reasoning correctly: 1 - Standard chassis the in kit is fibreglass with medium flexability. 2 - Carbon fibre chassis has the holes cut away under battery and motor locations but it is less flexible than the standard kit chassis? Would this be more suitable to an indoor circuit? 3 - High traction chassis also has motor plate cutout is also made from fibreglass but is more flexible than the standard kit chassis? Would this be more suitable for an outdoor circuit with more rough terrain? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
94eg! 837 Posted April 5, 2010 You are correct on all 3 points. Usually you use the more flexable chassis when traction is low. This allows the car to react with the same amount of flex as the higher traction situation, and maintain a similar feel as it did before. If your not into racing, you don't need to waste money on them. The heatsink thing probably does help. But again you shouldn't have ANY trouble with heat if you know how to gear properly. With brushless it's best to have a small temp gun to be sure your not going over 160*f... BTW: The carbon chassis is a werid idea. All the battery holes do is let dirt in. Probably would only suit on-road or turf racing that is very high traction because the extra stress will try to twist the chassis more than normal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Power Surge 0 Posted April 6, 2010 Standard chassis is fiberglass w/ medium flex.Carbon chassis is carbon fiber w/ low flex, holes below the batteries (what was Tamiya thinking here), and requires the motor heatsink plate. High Traction chassis is fiberglass w/ lots of flex and requires the motor heatsink plate... No reason to upgrade the chassis if you start with the regular fiberglass. Personally I don't get why The DB01-R includes a high-flex chassis and control arms, but then gives you a bunch carbon reinforced support pieces. I think they were just trying to pack in every hopup weather it makes sense or not... You will want to upgrade to carbon or aluminum suspension mounts and metal suspension balls. The standard parts allow the arms to pop out in a large crash. This doesn't really break anything, but the small spacers and balls get lost easily... BTW: I have that same 3-racing blue motor mount. It's not TRF blue and it requires more shims than normal... You're talking about the R, right? Cause my standard DB01 chassis is plastic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
94eg! 837 Posted April 6, 2010 You're talking about the R, right? Cause my standard DB01 chassis is plastic. The R comes with the high traction fiberglass chassis, and the regular DB01 comes with the standard fiberglass chassis... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spaint2k 0 Posted April 14, 2010 No reason to upgrade the chassis if you start with the regular fiberglass. Personally I don't get why The DB01-R includes a high-flex chassis and control arms, but then gives you a bunch carbon reinforced support pieces. I think they were just trying to pack in every hopup weather it makes sense or not... Hi there, Are you talking about the M-parts? You've mentioned in a couple of threads that the DB01-R comes with carbon reinforced pieces that you would actually prefer to downgrade to the regular kit parts. However, I can figure out which parts you specifically mean, nor can I seem to find basic replacement parts for the DB01 (as opposed to the hopped-up parts). Steve Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
