Airbrushing

[JohnLunchBox]

Anyone done it before ?

I'm bidding on a compressor at the moment and will hopfully get an airbrush kit, Is it as easy as it looks ?

I plan to use a mixture of airbrushing and brushes to paint a shell (practising on a carboard box first i think) i want to do flames with shading etc is it best to do the flames using a brush and then airbrush the shading etc after or is there a better way to do this ?

[sosidge]

Do it all with the airbrush, it will look a lot better.

Airbrushing isn't hard as long as you keep your equipment clean, mask with care, and thin your paints correctly.

[DimmaDan]

Make sure the compressor is oil free! And i have just bought a double action air brush for detailing and i have a badger airbrush from Jozza.

[Big Al(2)]

Airbrushing is definitly the way to go. Once you get he hang of it, you will love it. Also, be sure to waer a mask or cover your mouth and nose while airbrushing! I used to do it without any protection and when I would blow my nose, it would look like a rainbow in the tissue! haha! Not to mention I would get horrible headaches as well!

[ChrisB]

Airbrushing all the way . Definitely second the oilless compressor advice, and you might also want to invest in a watertrap to remove moisture from the air before it hits the airbrush (only a few quid).

Just practice, practice, practice. I have to say I didn't think it was very difficult and you can always redo it if you are not happy. Experiment with the pressure settings and thinning ratio's for the paint you use until you get it how you like it, lots of thin coats is better than a few heavy coats.

The Hummer in my showroom was my first ever attempt at airbrushing and I was really pleased with the result. In fact its due for a bit of a "touch up" now the front body post conversion is done, so maybe something I can do this weekend.

As someone else has said - take the time to clean the airbrush properly afterwards and you should have no problems.

Chris

[rotor]

I hate airbrushing, tried it on a shell and ruined everything

Thinned the paint right and all, went thru two cans of propellant ( as didnt want to fork out for a compressor in case i didnt like it ) and never got any paint through at all.

Was most dissapointing, might try again oneday, does having a compressor that you can up the PSI on make a good difference ?

Chris

[DJTheo]

Airbrushing needs good equipment, alot of patience and experience, I also used it in the beginning, but since I usually paint simple few colour schemes, I mostly now use Tamiya cans which give a better result for far less effort and money, but if you want to do camo, flames and draw stuff there is no alternative to airbrush.

Cheers

[gozone]

I am very happy about my Badger 360 universal airbrush. It allows for more complex paintschemes, and of course, the funny thing called "fading". Yes, this can also be achieved using spray cans, but not in the same detail as with an airbrush. I use a compressor, bought very cheap from one of these "Home-markest" or what you call them, you know, places where you also buy hammers, nails and stuff, and fitted an watertrap-unit, with adjustable pressure, so nothing unwnated will enter the airbrush.

I also must point out, that it takes a LOT of practice, (in my opinion), to achieve, what i would call, a perfect result, (which i havent yet). i am always looking to improve, both designs, easyness of painting, and of course, striving to get a perfect shell..

Another cool thing about airbrushing, is the smaller amount of paint, actually exiting the airbrush. those days when everything in the "shop" was the same colour as the last item painted are over, as the overspray from the brush is next to nothing.

Also, as said before, finding the exact thinning rate is very difficult, and takes a lot of time to figure out. One ratio that suit one type/colour of paint, might not suit the other, (e.g. the difference between candy and "normal" colours).

The only way to learn this, is the old and very used phrase: "Learning by doing".

And yes, it can take quite a few shells before one gets very pleased with the result.

The most important things to remember is this: LOTS of patience, and thoroughness, as speeding up the process wont help you out in the end at all..

Good luck, should you choose to go down the road of airbrushing.

Cheers.

Michael

[HunterZero]

quote:

Originally posted by rotor

Thinned the paint right and all, went thru two cans of propellant ( as didnt want to fork out for a compressor in case i didnt like it ) and never got any paint through at all.

Was most dissapointing, might try again oneday, does having a compressor that you can up the PSI on make a good difference ?

---

id="quote">id="quote">

Having a compressor is far better than those dodgy air cans, very hard to get consistent pressure with canned air. Do yourself a favour, try it with a compressor.

When thinning the paint, what thinner/paint did you use? The thinned paint should be about the consistency of milk to go through an airbrush.

- James

[rotor]

Thanks for that info, i might have to give it another shot with a compressor then.

i was using the parma faskolor paints, was told to thin them with water, which never really worked at all, i hope this was the right thing to thin them with, if not what would be best.

if you have a compressor do you really need to thin the paint or can you just turn up the pressure of the compressor at all ?

I really want to use an airbrush again just for the huge range of paint colour thats out there

Cheers

Chris

[DJTheo]

Acrylic paints are supposed to be better thinned with window cleaner or alcohol then water.

Cheers

[ChrisB]

I've pretty much only used Tamiya acrylic paints and thinners and have found a 50/50 ratio to work well with my dual action airbrush and compressor.

ALthough its not mentioned in the literature or on the packaging the Tamiya polycarbonate paints in small jars (PC coded ones?) can also use the same acrylic thinners as the X series Tamiya paints.

I also heard that the like of Windolene makes a very effective thinner for acrylic paints, although personally I've always used Tamiya thinners and have always had good results.

Cheers,

Chris

[HunterZero]

Yep, 50/50 is the right ratio with Tamiya paints and thinners. I use Gunze Sangyo paints as well, they're very good.

- James

[Jackson]

My father actually just got into airbrushing (bought the equipment, but have yet to try it out). I have a question though. What paint would be good for airbrushing styrene Tamiya bodies? We have a few bottles of "Pactra Racing Finish ACRYL", but I am pretty sure those are for lexan bodies only. Thank you.[]

[WillyChang]

quote:

Originally posted by rotor

i was using the parma faskolor paints, was told to thin them with water, which never really worked at all, i hope this was the right thing to thin them with, if not what would be best.

---

id="quote">id="quote">

Faskolor can be shot neat right from the bottle.

At the max I'd thin by adding no more than 20% volume to thin.

Pretty sure I either used warm water or that X20 Tamiya thinner.

If the paint is too thick it will dry before it hits the lexan;

you'lll generate fantastic great big volumes of 3D spiderwebs.

Most amazed first time it happened. []

[rotor]

excellent, 3D spiderwebs

I didnt have much luck with faskolor right from the bottle either, ahh well might have to get a proper compressor setup then

Thanks for that info

Chris

[DJTheo]

50/50 is the maximum thinning recommended, you might also try less (20-30%) for better coverage and shine.

Cheers

[WillyChang]

Depends how anal you get, but when painting 1/24 ABSs using

Tamiya X paints used to paint the first few colour coats with a

thicker paint, then thin down the later coats much more.

Might even mist on a coat of pure X20 thinner at the very end.

Quite often can acheive a pretty good shine right off the gun, so

reduces need for rubbing down etc. Rubbing a 1/24 is not easy

as you could damage the ABS details quite easily.

[DJTheo]

Weird, I have read and usually do the opposite, first mist coats and then thicker ones as the first give better adhesion and reduce the risk of running and the last give more shine [?]

Cheers

[jozza]

quote:

Originally posted by rotor

excellent, 3D spiderwebs

I didnt have much luck with faskolor right from the bottle either, ahh well might have to get a proper compressor setup then

Thanks for that info

Chris

---

id="quote">id="quote">Faskolor needs a compressor, as it has to be pushed out of the brush at a higher pressure than solvent based paints. It shouldn't be thinned much either, if you thin it enough to work with aircans then it won't produce a good finish.

I used to really dislike the Faskolor paints, then I bought a good compressor and now I use nothing else for Lexan shells. The main advantage is that the thinners is cheap - you can't get any cheaper than some water from the hot tap []. Being able to use water to do thinning and most of the cleaning has allowed me to experiment a lot more and produce some nice results with Faskolor paints. Also, it's worth leaving Faskolor to cure for a few days or even a week - it cures and binds to the Lexan, but if you don't leave it long enough it's not very tough. After a week it is fully set and I find it withstands a lot more abuse than solvent paints.

[WillyChang]

When painting Fascolor, you should Heat the lexan to toasy warm

with a fan heater or hairdryer before shooting.

quote:

Originally posted by DJTheo

Weird, I have read and usually do the opposite, first mist coats and then thicker ones as the first give better adhesion and reduce the risk of running and the last give more shine [?]

---

id="quote">id="quote">

Meant thicker paint (less thinners), not thicker coats. []

Ya 1st coat should always be a "mist", especially with masking.

I've been painting & drying my ABSes upsidedown btw. [8D]

Seems to reduce drips and dustbunnies - I don't have a spraybooth.

[DCM71]

Faskolor, great stuff when thinned a little and a compressor with an air tank.

I find a Hopper type airbrush works better than one that has to cyphon the paint up.

[WillyChang]

If you don't already have one, Fascolor sell their own

Badger-type airbrush which ppl think is worth buying.

Supposedly works good for the Fascolor metallics.

I just use a 20yo Tamiya Airwork. []

[Incredible_Serious]

Well all... I have a Tamiya Spray Work compressor http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...id=25631&id=154 ...... and now I need an air brush. Anyone know an air brush that would work (BASIC is all I need, never airbrushed before). Anyone got one that would suit? Want to play....

Alex

[DJTheo]

quote:

Originally posted by WillyChang

Meant thicker paint (less thinners), not thicker coats. [

]

Ya 1st coat should always be a "mist", especially with masking.

I've been painting & drying my ABSes upsidedown btw. [8D]

Seems to reduce drips and dustbunnies - I don't have a spraybooth.

---

id="quote">id="quote">

Weird, also mean the same but still use more thinner at the start and less at the end as I have the feeling that thinner takes away some shine...

Nice tip with the upside down painting![8D], must hurt the neck after some time though... LOL

Cheers