How To Paint A Sand Scorcher

[macmeniac]

methods?

[Scorchio]

Most common I've seen here is whole car white first then mask for blue, thats how I did mine.

[SB_Aust]

This is quite a nice reference

http://www.rc-airplane-world.com/tamiya-sa...-bodyshell.html

[TamiyaDan]

.

[Paulzippy]

I used car paint..Plastic primmer then ford diamond white the whole shell.

Then we used liquid mask to cover area's along with masking tape and painted the other area's in Ford Olympic blue........... wait a day to dry add 5 coats of clear coat

pics below in link

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=55847

Im happy with finish

[bfst24]

I used car paint..Plastic primmer then ford diamond white the whole shell.

Then we used liquid mask to cover area's along with masking tape and painted the other area's in Ford Olympic blue........... wait a day to dry add 5 coats of clear coat

pics below in link

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=55847

Im happy with finish

i always use car paint too.usually from halfords.

the liquid mask does make it easier to use the first method described above.

[crass bug]

This thread is just what I'm looking for as I have 1 scorcher shell and 2 sand rover shells to paint.

I found graffiti remover the best stuff to remove the old paint.

I'm sure as a kid I just used standard cellulose primer and car spray to paint my scorcher and sand rover shell as plastic primer didn't exsist then, pre plastic bumper cars such as Ford sierra's wern't invented then.

Do people use plastic primer to help the paint stay on if you crash it, I don't intend to drive mine with the body on so should I just use the bog standard stuff as before, does anyone else just use standard cellulose primer.

Sorry to go off subject but Is it true the club do the best repro decals, is there much difference between repro and original decals I'm just wondering if it's worth spending the extra on the originals if I can still get them.

Lee

[Shodog]

I always use a primer becuase if you don't the paint will wick away from the details like the door lines. You can get crisp cuts between paint colors by using a high quality tape and shooting a bit of clear over the tape to help seal down the edges. To the original poster, paint the white first

[Alvarez]

This is the way I went about painting my SS10 shell.

Paint I used was Humbrol acrylic gloss white and gloss Ferrari red, along with some 10mm Tamiya masking tape and some high tack 3inch Homebase masking tape. Tools were a very sharp modeling knife and a decent paint brush with a smooth pointed ended handle.

First of was to lightly sand down any rough spots on the edges of the shell or any unsightly moulding lines (wheel arches) with very fine Tamiya finishing abrasive.

Once I had sanded it down I then washed it in warm soapy water and then rinsed in hot water and used kitchen towel to dry it.

I set-up a little spray booth out of 2 boxes taped together, I started with the white paint at first and made sure I sat it in a bowl of warm water to heat it up allowing a better spray finish.

I lightly went over the shell 5 times letting each coat dry sufficently before the next.

I let the white paint dry for a day until I went to tackle the masking of the red paint.

First of I got the major straight lines masked up with the 10mm Tamiya tape and any intricate curves I layed a large piece of the 3" tape over the area making sure I overlapped onto the areas I wanted to be painted red. I then got a very sharp modeling knife and gently cut the tape following the bodies lines. Do not press to hard you dont want to cut into the shell just the tape itself. Peel off the excess and your left with a perfectly clean masking line.

The two bonnet areas I just did the same by laying large pieces of tape over each part and then cutting out the centres.

Once I had masked the whole body I went around the edges of the tape with the handle of a paint brush and burnished them down, the better the tape is stuck down the better the finish.

I didnt attach any of the body parts for painting I did them all separately.

I painted the red in the same way as the white allowing sufficent time for drying.

Once it had all dried I then peeled all the tape off and was left with a perfectly sharp painted Scorcher with absolutely no bleed marks.

To paint the window surrounds I applied large strips of 3" tape which covered them entirely. I got the end of a paint brush and press the tape into all the window lines and then used a knife to cut out the inners. I then went around them again to burnish the edges of the tape down with the brush handle and then painted them with some Revel semi gloss black acrylic. Left to dry and then removed the tape and was left with sharp clean window surrounds.

Then applied the stickers trying to avoid putting my fingers on the sticky side of them and instead used the blade of a knife to apply them where I wanted them. Pressed them down firmly by running the back of my finger nail over them and they came out perfectly too.

All in all it took about 5-6 hours total to paint and decal the body.

In my opinion it really does come down to the quality of your masking tape and how well you apply it. Avoid if all possible not to layer tape up on the painting lines as the paint can bleed under the gaps very easily.

Also take your ime with the spraying dont go over the top with it and allow fine coats to prevent bleeding and the orange peel effect.

[BangkokBulldog]

Alverez,

Great painting tips and a fantastic looking shell you have there.Nice work!

[Alvarez]

Thanks.

Another good tip I found is to make the VW badge stand out a bit more. I got some gloss black acrylic and filled in the gaps on the badge, fill up the gaps with quite a bit of paint and then just lightly rub a finger over it to remove over run paint.

Once dry you are left with the crome VW logo backed with gloss black or whatever colour you fancy.

[smegs]

Thanks.

Another good tip I found is to make the VW badge stand out a bit more. I got some gloss black acrylic and filled in the gaps on the badge, fill up the gaps with quite a bit of paint and then just lightly rub a finger over it to remove over run paint.

Once dry you are left with the crome VW logo backed with gloss black or whatever colour you fancy.

If i ever get a sand scorcher can you paint mine. LOL.

[MSobke]

Another other tip I recently picked up...whichever color you spray first, after you have masked, respray a thin coat of that same color around the edges of the masking tape. The story goes that this helps seal the masking tape edge, and if you DO get bleed through, it is the same color as the color under the tape. This particular magazine article was referring to airbrushing, so I don't know how effective it would be with rattle cans, but it sounded like a reasonible idea to me...

[Live Steam Mad]

I'm sure as a kid I just used standard cellulose primer and car spray to paint my scorcher and sand rover shell as plastic primer didn't exsist then, pre plastic bumper cars such as Ford sierra's wern't invented then.

Do people use plastic primer to help the paint stay on if you crash it, I don't intend to drive mine with the body on so should I just use the bog standard stuff as before, does anyone else just use standard cellulose primer.

I wouldn't use Cellulose primer if I were you. Cellulose thinners based paints eat into the Styrene SS1979 / SS2010 shell, and I imagine the primer does too. I say this because my now long absent TC local friend Mike_T (wish he was here LOL, he came to visit me a couple of times and we had a great time talking about Tamiya RC models) used Cellulose paints on his Blitzer Beetle and then he wasn't happy with the finish (because it was reacting with the shell I assume but I forget now) so he used Cellulose thinners on it to remove the paint and when he came down the next morning all that was left was a black puddle on the floor...

If you must use paints that dissolve Styrene, use a primer first that doesn't!

BTW I am also interested in getting this SS paint job right as I want to do one in red and yellow like in the UK SS advert that I stared at for hours as a 7 year old kid and still do today

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[chris capobianco]

I wouldn't use Cellulose primer if I were you. Cellulose thinners based paints eat into the Styrene SS1979 / SS2010 shell, and I imagine the primer does too. I say this because my now long absent TC local friend Mike_T (wish he was here LOL, he came to visit me a couple of times and we had a great time talking about Tamiya RC models) used Cellulose paints on his Blitzer Beetle and then he wasn't happy with the finish (because it was reacting with the shell I assume but I forget now) so he used Cellulose thinners on it to remove the paint and when he came down the next morning all that was left was a black puddle on the floor...

If you must use paints that dissolve Styrene, use a primer first that doesn't!

BTW I am also interested in getting this SS paint job right as I want to do one in red and yellow like in the UK SS advert that I stared at for hours as a 7 year old kid and still do today

Cheers,

Alistair G.

I Think there are many schools of thought about painting that will achieve top level results. I am going to paint 2 sand scorcher shells, I am a rookie and have not painted any models that I have been proud of LOL. That being said I am going to run tests on other bodies first I can't see going for broke and shooting up a body that I have spent hours on sanding and prepping to come out no better than if I had a 5 year old do it. I know this will take me a long time, but I want to learn a lot here. any tips on wet sanding and how to cut and polish after paint would be greatly appreciated Thanks Chris

[Live Steam Mad]

I Think there are many schools of thought about painting that will achieve top level results. I am going to paint 2 sand scorcher shells, I am a rookie and have not painted any models that I have been proud of LOL. That being said I am going to run tests on other bodies first I can't see going for broke and shooting up a body that I have spent hours on sanding and prepping to come out no better than if I had a 5 year old do it. I know this will take me a long time, but I want to learn a lot here. any tips on wet sanding and how to cut and polish after paint would be greatly appreciated Thanks Chris

Hi Chris. Wow I've been away a while (retro gaming and console mod's) but I still have the interest in vintage buggies. Something that I thought was important to mention was that a while back I found P3000 grade Silicon Carbide and it turned out to be able to wet sand the paint a whole lot more safely and easily than with the previous grades that I was using (P1000, P1200, P1500, P2000, BTW Tamiya make the latter two grades, and I got P400,600,800,1000 and 1200 from a local car paint / car electrics shop for about 40 pence per sheet) since with the P2000 and below I was rubbing through the paint down to the plastic in certain patches, not good.

P3000 was very much more successful for me, I got it from Ebay of course since our local shops didn't have anything about P2000. Oh and of course don't buy Alundum or normal sandpaper or etc., make sure to get the waterproof type (Silicon Carbide, Wet 'n' Dry) as then when it clogs up you just agitate the abrasive sheet in warm water and it goes back to being not clogged again. You can feel and hear when the stuff is cutting, and when it's worn out, but that comes with experience.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[SHY69]

How about Bob Dively liquid mask?

[bad andy]

How about Bob Dively liquid mask?

How about it? I love the stuff!

[Yonez]

How long do you leave masking tape on after painting?

I'm afraid if I remove it too early the paint will bleed but if I remove it too late the paint will crack.

I'd like to try my hand at a scorcher shell come summer. It'll be many moons before it is hot enough in Norway to paint outside and I live in a flat so I can't paint in doors.

[neo]

How long do you leave masking tape on after painting?

I'm afraid if I remove it too early the paint will bleed but if I remove it too late the paint will crack.

I'd like to try my hand at a scorcher shell come summer. It'll be many moons before it is hot enough in Norway to paint outside and I live in a flat so I can't paint in doors.

One tip I have seen is to paint a good thick spot on a large spot of masking tape and once that's good and dry you know the main painted surface is dry and ready to remove the masking tape.

[SHY69]

How about it? I love the stuff!

I've only painted lexan shells, not these plastic ones (SRB) before. And for lexan the Bob Dively liquid mask makes the job 100 times easier and better, I just love it!

So, does the same go for these plastic shells?

There's so much hassle with masking tape!... not very flexible, bleeding, leftover glue etc...