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TIMtam

Df03 Brushless

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Hiii

Just ordered myself a EZRUN 5.5T Brushless system and i am goin to put it into my tamiya df03.

Could anyone advise me on what upgrades would be useful to keep my car running well (or just keep it running for that matter)

i have quite a few alloy parts already; prop shaft, wishbones, etc but is there anything else???

Hope you can help

Mike

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Hiii

Just ordered myself a EZRUN 5.5T Brushless system and i am goin to put it into my tamiya df03.

Could anyone advise me on what upgrades would be useful to keep my car running well (or just keep it running for that matter)

i have quite a few alloy parts already; prop shaft, wishbones, etc but is there anything else???

Hope you can help

Mike

The biggest upgrade you need to run that in a DF03, is to sell it and get a DB01.

Seriously, (actually that was mostly serious) if you do a search under DF03 and TA-Mark you'll find plenty of posts discussing how the DF03's alloy mainshaft gear turns to mush after a few packs of brushless fun. You can make your own assessment of the issue after you read through some of those posts.

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thanks but i have already spent quite a bit on alloy parts for it and i didnt really want to have to change chassis

thanks for your comment i will consider it if i have trouble

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Slipper Clutch and some smaller pinions (22T/23T) to get the ratio right for the brushless. Some DF02 universal assembly shafts on the front if you've not already done them (these are standard on the DF03MS kit). The dogbones tend to 'chatter' when steering. Turnbuckles are handy for easy suspension adjustments. Everything else is just cosmetic and will not improve performance or strength.

Keep a close eye on the mainshaft wear. When racing hard I was lucky to get 10 packs out of the aluminium gear with high power brushless fitted. Wornout 9 shafts to date over three DF03s, and still on the first pinion and spur in all. I've put 27T Dirt Tuned motors in mine now (and retired it as my racer). Atleast I get 100 or so packs through the buggy before buying a new slipper clutch set with the slow motor.

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i have quite a few alloy parts already; prop shaft, wishbones, etc but is there anything else???

The stock prop shaft was alloy. What did you upgrade it with?

Also, you never want to run alloy control arms. Instead of flexing in a wreck, they will bend and screw up the suspension. Also, their lack of flex will allow more energy to transfer to the gearbox breaking them more frequently.

The only upgrade you really need is a slipper clutch and gearing options as Mark said. Also, you might want to transfer your front alloy differential outdrives to the rear and run the half plastic/alloy ones in the front. The full alloy halves will keep your diff from loosening up as quickly (you still need to monitor their tightness). This will help reduce the likelyhood of diff melt down. Because you always want to run the rear diff a little looser than the front, so it's the one that's more likely to slip and heat up.

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The stock prop shaft was alloy. What did you upgrade it with?

i just upgraded it with the blue one for the looks :wub:

thanks for this help, i will probably get the slipper clutch just to protect my gears

:)

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i just upgraded it with the blue one for the looks :lol:

thanks for this help, i will probably get the slipper clutch just to protect my gears

:D

Your welcome Tim :D

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i just upgraded it with the blue one for the looks :lol:

thanks for this help, i will probably get the slipper clutch just to protect my gears

:D

The slipper protects the diffs as much as the gears. The slipper should slip before the diffs do. If the slipper is too tight or not there then the diffs will slip, get hot and melt.

I've been running automotive moly-graph grease on my alloy mainshaft and it has slowed the wear quite a bit. I just pop the top gear cover off every 10 runs and reapply a bit of it. Doesn't solve the problem, but it appears to be helping.

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