Jump to content
mtl_slo

Tamiya Porsche 959 4wd

Recommended Posts

Finally I have also managed to get this legend in my hands. It is not in a mint condition, but I am really happy to get it. It drives great, though it shows that previous owners really used it for what it was intended.

As far as I have noticed by now, it does not have original wheels and tires (though I got also original wheels but painted in silver ;)), there are no lights and body is in the front quite damaged, because prevoius owner did not use the front bumper (though I got this also :)).

Now, I have a few questions:

1.) What should I service? How are oil shock absorbers services? Are there any online guides for this? I would like also to oil all moving parts. Is there any online guide? Video would be prefered :D since I am new in this.

2.) Is the motor original? Because there is no sign on it. It should be, but how can I check?

3.) Where could I get tires for original wheels? Are there any substitutes?

4.) How can I remove the silver paint from original wheels without damaging them?

5.) Should I check some parts that could be damaged?

And the pictures:

2yn-Tamiya_thumb.jpg

jey-Tamiya_thumb.jpg

2ph-Tamiya_thumb.jpg

vgo-Tamiya_thumb.jpg

sr-Tamiya_thumb.jpg

mda-Tamiya_thumb.jpg

ed3-Tamiya_thumb.jpg

qj-Tamiya_thumb.jpg

1gi-Tamiya_thumb.jpg

x3o-Tamiya_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Finally I have also managed to get this legend in my hands. It is not in a mint condition, but I am really happy to get it. It drives great, though it shows that previous owners really used it for what it was intended.

As far as I have noticed by now, it does not have original wheels and tires (though I got also original wheels but painted in silver ;)), there are no lights and body is in the front quite damaged, because prevoius owner did not use the front bumper (though I got this also :)).

Now, I have a few questions:

1.) What should I service? How are oil shock absorbers services? Are there any online guides for this? I would like also to oil all moving parts. Is there any online guide? Video would be prefered :D since I am new in this.

2.) Is the motor original? Because there is no sign on it. It should be, but how can I check?

3.) Where could I get tires for original wheels? Are there any substitutes?

4.) How can I remove the silver paint from original wheels without damaging them?

5.) Should I check some parts that could be damaged

I own one, put I'm no expert.

1. Maybe start with the manual: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/manual.asp?id=59

2. Yep, looks original.

3. eBay and here: http://www.rcrallyraiders.com/Tamiya%20Por...59%20wheels.htm DSCF1476.JPG

4. Brake fluid.

5. Definitely do a full strip down and rebuild.

Great cars, here's mine: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...54297&st=40

Are you going to keep this as a runner, or retire her to a shelf?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I own one, put I'm no expert.

1. Maybe start with the manual: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/manual.asp?id=59

I have already tried, but I cannot get a medium resolution pages although I am registered. Any help on this?

2. Yep, looks original.

Great :).

Nice wheels, though currently there are 1:10 wheels installed (of course with different wheel axes), so I would need only tires 1:12. I do not like unoriginal parts so much, so for driving I will use the tires and wheels already installed, but I would like to get 1:12 tires for looks when it is flashing of the shelf :D. Though, as I have checked Ebay a little bit, this will come later on, because 90 USD for tires is currently to much for me. I will first try to solve the body, though also there we are talking about 100 USD + work. Hihi, I have already got the message, that the initial cost was the smallest problem :(;).

Anyway I would need a practise bumber if somebody has one spare :).

4. Brake fluid.

I have already thought about that and I will try slowly on inner side. Hope it will not melt also the plastic wheels :).

5. Definitely do a full strip down and rebuild.

Will try, but I am new in this, so I am still trying to collect the courage to open differentials, etc. Because disassembling is easy, putting it back together so that it works, this is a tiny problem from my side :).

A question here: when you open differential, does everything collapses or it sticks together, so you can do part by part?

Are you going to keep this as a runner, or retire her to the shelf?

A runner definitely. It would be a shame not to drive ti, since it drives so perfectly. But not on a dirt or race track. This is only for my enjoyment on nearby parking spot on a nice sunny Sunday:). Although also my daughter (2 years old) is slowly catching up with this crazy joy for car models, so she will drive it most probably. I am just waiting to get a brand new TT-01 for me (or her, it is yet to be seen, what she will like the most :)).

Anyway, I have a problem with the battery and still no charger, so I hope that it has no problems with driving. That would be great. Currently I have only tested it a little bit, because the battery has not been used, so if I give it a full throttle it only stops, but if I slowly ad the throttle than it is ok. Hope that it is really a battery problem and not something else.

My plans are as follows:

1.) Complete cleaning and oiling all the parts.

2.) New battery and charger for a proper test drive.

3.) Installation of practise bumper (first I have to get it).

4.) Body exchange or repair.

5.) Original tire installation.

6.) Installation of lights. Is this complex? What do I have to get?

But all this done slowly, because as I see this will not be a cheap hobby. :)

Anyway, nice restoration from your side :). Hope it drives as it looks. Do you drive it?

PS: Could you take a high resolution pictures of your 959, so that I could check if there is something unoriginal on mine? I do not need the pictures of the body but the chassis, motor and other parts. I would appreciate that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't run mine. It's also very unoriginal: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...c=54379&hl= so won't be much use to you as a reference. But you should check here: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/userrides.asp?id=59 where there are loads of pictures. As for the manual, you need to logon to that part of the site to get the higher res version.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Firstly i am no expert on these as i have not run mine since i bought it of ebay, nor have i stripped it down. What i noticed on yours is that the motor looks like it is mounted wrong as on mine the metal bar that sits on top of it is flat and on yours the wires are stopping it from laying flat. You have got an original technigold motor in it and you could get new brushes for it. If you plan to run it, they are prone to breaking suspension arms i believe and these parts are hard to come by and expensive when they show up.

I personally wouldn't put an original shell on it if you plan to run it, instead get a teamblugroove repro one from ebay ($30 + shipping). As for the lights keep looking on ebay as they pop up from time to time and are fitted to the shell with screws. Brake fluid will not melt the plastic of the wheels, but they are also on ebay as well or just strip the paint off and respray if needed.

Colin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Colin, yep the backbone doesn't look like it's fitted correctly. Agreed on the bluegroove repro shell for running. I'd also advice going for the thicker lexan option. For a runner I would think about getting the bluegroove hop-up parts.

Looks like the lights are installed from looking at the pictures. All the other plastic bits seem to be there too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You can find the manual in high resolution here: http://www.tamiyabase.com/manuals/manuals.htm

-Lars

Thx for this link, now I have it B).

Thx also to others especially for notice on motor mounting wrong. Anyway, now that I have manual I will work with that and check everything carfully, though it might take some time.

Also I managed to charge the battery today and Tamiya runs perfect :D. It was a pure joy :P.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A question for those that you are running 959s.

I have been driving it today fast for approximately 5 minutes and checked the motor that was a little warm. After that I have reduced speed and just walk it around the parking slot. But after a few more minutes the motor was really hot, so I stopped. Is this normal? I thought that driving slowly will cool down the motor, but it did the opposite. And it was not so warm outside, the temperature was 9 degrees Celsius.

Anyway, I have decided that when I receive TT-01, I will put 959 completely to pieces and rebuild it from start. It deserves that.B)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Congrats, looks good.

The rear springs are not the original ones. Swapping is common for improved handling, I expect yours handles very nicely considering these and the foam tires. Should be alot of fun to drive :P

The esc appears to have been expoxied to be made waterproof.

The motor is only held in place by the two chassis halves and one screw. Be careful not to loose the little white plastic collar that sits on the end of the motor; when you disassemble the car. These are very hard to replace if lost.

Check out the bluegroove thread for ideas of weak areas, and there is no need to hop up anything to enjoy the car if budget is an issue - they are great as is and I have run mine for years with no mods except for diff rear springs.

Enjoy!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have one new question. Is it possible to get the year when one particular car was produced?

I know they have started to build these beauties in 1986. When was the last car produced?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have one new question. Is it possible to get the year when one particular car was produced?

I know they have started to build these beauties in 1986. When was the last car produced?

Exact dates for when the models were discontinued are not available. Exact release dates are available though.

For best estimate as to when a model was discontinued, take a look at my overview af RC Guide Book entries on www.TamiyaBase.com . This will give a good indication +/- one year.

http://www.tamiyabase.com/guidebooks/guidedata.htm

-Lars

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Finally I have also managed to get this legend in my hands. It is not in a mint condition, but I am really happy to get it. It drives great, though it shows that previous owners really used it for what it was intended.

As far as I have noticed by now, it does not have original wheels and tires (though I got also original wheels but painted in silver :(), there are no lights and body is in the front quite damaged, because prevoius owner did not use the front bumper (though I got this also :)).

Now, I have a few questions:

1.) What should I service? How are oil shock absorbers services? Are there any online guides for this? I would like also to oil all moving parts. Is there any online guide? Video would be prefered :) since I am new in this.

2.) Is the motor original? Because there is no sign on it. It should be, but how can I check?

3.) Where could I get tires for original wheels? Are there any substitutes?

4.) How can I remove the silver paint from original wheels without damaging them?

5.) Should I check some parts that could be damaged?

I am currently restoring my old Porsche 959. It's been sitting in my box in pieces for the last 20 years.

In answer to your questions:

1. Download the manual from this site, then fully strip the car, clean it part, check for wear, cracks and missing parts for each part. Look for non-original parts, incorrect screw sizes etc that may have been used on the car. Fix or replace what is damaged/missing. I recently spent a couple of trips in Japan visiting all the hobby stores there (including Tamiya HQ), but had no luck finding any vintage porsche parts. Ebay is still the easiest source for parts.

2. The motor looks original... ie gold can. Possibly missing the technigold sticker though. You may want to pull it apart and check the brushes and clean the comm. Read the instruction manual for how to dismantle the motor and be very careful not to damage the brushes. A technigold motor in good condition is worth a lot of money on ebay.

3. The original tyres for this car were the rally tread. There is also a slick version, although I get the impression these were an aftermarket option, as the only tyres I ever saw in the box for the Porsche back in 1986-1987 was the rally. The wheels are yellow. Both can be purchased on ebay, although a pair (tyre and wheel) normally costs about US$50. Occasionally a decent deal pops up though.

4. Removing silver paint... not sure what solvents to use. I have the same problem and will gently scrape it off with a plastic (not metal) scraper and then polish to return a bit of plastic shine.

5. Lots of parts were easily damaged on the Porsche. Common ones that I am aware of: The front and rear prop shafts (the original shafts did not have the brass collar to strengthen the joint). The rear lower arms cracked really easily (R3 and R4). Some people have machined replacements out of metal. When the parts appear on ebay, they sell for approx US$24. The front arms are quite flimsy and break easily. The white steering arm sheers fairly easily (notwithstanding the servo saver spring!). The rear lower suspension links (the little black threaded piece) cracks easy. Also take a look at the gears. The technigold motor is quite torquey and therefore if the car was driven hard enough, some of the gears may be damaged. Also check the bearings and bushings. Tamiya bearings easily become filled with grit and will wear out and the bushings are guaranteed to wear from use and then generate un-needed slop in the axles. I'm replacing all of the bushings and old bearings with new rubber sealed ones (22 bearings total).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone know where I could get brushes for this motor? A year ago they were available on Ebay, but now nothing... :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
keep watching ebay the technigold brushes come up from time to time.

you could also use the Technipower brush if you wanted to.

I'm not really sure what the difference is between the technigold brush verse the technipower brush compound but the brushes fit in the cans. also the Dynatech motor used the same brush design.

one brush might be made of more copper then the other but i've never really looked at the difference.

---------------

'Madracer' once spoke about it: in this thread: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/lofiversio...php?t60390.html

"Yes you can use them all between them.

The instructions says only use Technigold brushes as performance will not be the same but that was just marketing hype ..

The differance is the technipower/tune motors you had to solder the pig tails on where the gold are pre soldered . Gold has vented brushes (large grooves to help bed in and keep com wear down.

The Dynatech are just plated gold brush holders. Will fit no problems.

I have all of these motors."

Cheers...

Thx, everything what I needed to know, though I am a little disappointed since it looks like I will have to true commutator and for now I do not even understand what that means :). Will have to give a call to my colleague that is electrican.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Does anyone know where I could get brushes for this motor? A year ago they were available on Ebay, but now nothing... :D

Have you found some brushes yet?

If not, let me know, I might be able to help. I think I have a set NIP but have to check?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cutting the comm or truing it, means to lathe cut the contact surface of the motor brush on the armature to make the surface perfectly level up and down and as perfectly round as possible.

this reduces brush bounce, and arching and increases the power a motor can put out.

http://www.rcracingusa.net/commcutting.htm

Technically stock motors require the commutator cut every 6-8 runs, modified 2-4, and very low turn motors with high timing every run to maintain performance.

that is why these type of motors are re-buildable.

Sadly not yet, though now I am looking at alternatives. Please check and let me know if you have it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sadly not yet, though now I am looking at alternatives. Please check and let me know if you have it.

Will do. You might just get lucky. I'm pretty sure the set I have has 540 VZ on the pack. I will post an image up for you in about 8 hours time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bingo

PM me if you want them or if you are getting tired of the 959 :o

Check out the original retailers price tag from 1989.

RX-540VZTechnigoldBrushes.jpg

What alternatives are you looking at? The 959 is not suited to a static shelfer, it wants to be run..lots. I say get a modern power system and some spare rubber and have a blast.

There is a 1 year gap in your thread too, where is this 959 at?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Bingo

PM me if you want them or if you are getting tired of the 959 :o

Check out the original retailers price tag from 1989.

RX-540VZTechnigoldBrushes.jpg

What alternatives are you looking at? The 959 is not suited to a static shelfer, it wants to be run..lots. I say get a modern power system and some spare rubber and have a blast.

There is a 1 year gap in your thread too, where is this 959 at?

GOLD DUST!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Bingo

PM me if you want them or if you are getting tired of the 959 ;)

Check out the original retailers price tag from 1989.

RX-540VZTechnigoldBrushes.jpg

What alternatives are you looking at? The 959 is not suited to a static shelfer, it wants to be run..lots. I say get a modern power system and some spare rubber and have a blast.

There is a 1 year gap in your thread too, where is this 959 at?

Heh, no way I get rid of the old chap :o. I use it only for fun driving a few times a year. I managed to get rid of the silver paint from the wheels (they were soaking in brake fluid for a month :D and whenever I went by rub little paint of)and currently I am looking for tires, though they are very expensive. So now I am using 1:10 wheels/tires from current Tamiyas. It is an excellent car, hopefully I will manage to slowly repair it. It would need also new body, but this will come maybe later. Everything is expensive with this chap.

Heh, the original price is a bargain :).

Anyway alternatives are thoroughly discussed in this post: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/lofiversio...php?t60390.html

PS: I responded to your PM, but I do not see it under Sent folder. Did you get it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anyway alternatives are thoroughly discussed in this post: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/lofiversio...php?t60390.html

PS: I responded to your PM, but I do not see it under Sent folder. Did you get it?

Gold Dust hey :o

You just need to tick save sent message before you send.

OK, I did read that thread. I was thinking alternative power system such as a TEU104BK electric speed control and a BZ Super Stock motor or a mild brushless combo for running. Do get yourself a ***** body shell for it too, you won't be dissapointed.

I did get your PM, I will check with my post office and get back to you soon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...