Body Panel Lines!

[Jumpinugly]

Hello gang! I hope all is well with everyone out there in Tamiya land!

Over the I've prided myself as an excellent painter of Tamiya and Kyosho bodies. However, I have become increasingly stumped as to how to adequately

apply dark thin panel lines to touring cars, GT40's, Porsches etc. As these areas are indented into the lexan on the outside and the inverse; being raised on the

outside I have messed up more than once in my approach. I've tried rubbing a black wash on the outside with mixed results. Sharpies offer a nice level of

control, but as we know they turn to mush when lacquers are applied.

I (very luckily) recently picked up three Kyosho Nostalgic kits; the GT40, Cobra, and Cobra Daytona. The GT40 was a bit tired, but the previous owner did a

wonderful job on the panel lines.

They were done on the inside of the lexan and are arrow straight. So I managed to purchase a NIB GT40 body set and (uncharacteristically for me) have fallen into

a terror over messing up this pristine Body Set.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated and as usual many thanks to you all.

Best regards, Jumpinugly

[VagabondStarJXF]

I've considered transposing a technique that I saw on youtube for doing custom designs on lexan shells. Basically you use a liquid mask to completely coat the inside of the shell then, using a sharpie, cut out the shapes required which is the panel lines in this case instead of any particular design. Then you should be able to paint away nice and neatly with your normal polycarbonate paints all without worrying about messing things up later. I still haven't tried it out though, haven't gotten round to buying the liquid mask stuff, so although it should work because it works with some really complicated looking airbrush designs it's still an untested idea on my end. I hope that might help.

And if you try it please let me know if I was right.

[Jumpinugly]

I've considered transposing a technique that I saw on youtube for doing custom designs on lexan shells. Basically you use a liquid mask to completely coat the inside of the shell then, using a sharpie, cut out the shapes required which is the panel lines in this case instead of any particular design. Then you should be able to paint away nice and neatly with your normal polycarbonate paints all without worrying about messing things up later. I still haven't tried it out though, haven't gotten round to buying the liquid mask stuff, so although it should work because it works with some really complicated looking airbrush designs it's still an untested idea on my end. I hope that might help.

And if you try it please let me know if I was right.

Hey Vagabond! Thanks so much for the reply! This seems like a valid choice. I will look into this and give it a shot on a junk spare and

will let you know how it goes. Many thanks, Guy

[c_a_r_t_e_r]

Kyosho micron tape - 0.4mm is the answer! I've used this both ways: Inside the lexan shell to mask then back with black, and on the outside of the shell in the body panel groove.

Hard to say which one was best - the first approach required some removal of the adhesive before backing with black and was trickier to layout, the latter approach means the tape is more vunerable on the outside of the shell - although to be honest if you're going to the trouble of panel lines then it's probably not going to be a rough basher shell!

I'd go with the 0.4mm tape on the outside - you can get really neat curves under your finger as you stretch it around the lines, and it sticks on there really well.

Good luck - post photos of your results!

Tim.

[Jumpinugly]

Kyosho micron tape - 0.4mm is the answer! I've used this both ways: Inside the lexan shell to mask then back with black, and on the outside of the shell in the body panel groove.

Hard to say which one was best - the first approach required some removal of the adhesive before backing with black and was trickier to layout, the latter approach means the tape is more vunerable on the outside of the shell - although to be honest if you're going to the trouble of panel lines then it's probably not going to be a rough basher shell!

I'd go with the 0.4mm tape on the outside - you can get really neat curves under your finger as you stretch it around the lines, and it sticks on there really well.

Good luck - post photos of your results!

Tim.

Dear Tim! Awesome! Thanks so much, I will try this for sure. I honestly never gave this one a thought. Best regards, Guy

[Chain Driven]

I agree with Carter, I usually use Kyosho micron tape combined with sharpie for tricky surface, as sadly even Kyosho's tape will come up from a recess if there is even the smallest amount of tension on it.

By the way, always wash the outside prior to applying the decals and tape, that'll give it more chance to stick firmly on the lexan.

jerome

[Sayer]

This might be an option too if you can find somewhere that sells them.

[Brooklyn Nights]

This might be an option too if you can find somewhere that sells them.

Nowhere in the UK sells them as I`ve looked!

Only available in the states it seems....

Cheers

Rich

[Sayer]

Nowhere in the UK sells them as I`ve looked!

Only available in the states it seems....

Cheers

Rich

Is ordering online out as an option?

[TamiyaDan]

.

[Sayer]

i've used those, they don't stick to lexan, and it will wipe off.

Good to know. Thankfully I didn't purchase any. It looks like I'll have to invest in these despite the claims of some stores that it will take weeks due to inability to transport paints by air?!

That, and their inexplicable vagueness about the surfaces it's suitable for or nib size.

**EDIT

HAH! - Still way too darned vague though

[VagabondStarJXF]

... completely coat the inside of the shell then, using a sharpie...

Oops. I meant a sharp knife not a sharpie. Still suffering from sleep depravation. :)

Hey Vagabond! Thanks so much for the reply! This seems like a valid choice. I will look into this and give it a shot on a junk spare and

will let you know how it goes. Many thanks, Guy

No problemo dude. I've just found some purple Maskol in one of my old Babylon 5 model boxes so I think I'll be giving it a try myself sometime soon (I hope). If I get it done first I'll let you know how it went.

[tamiyoman]

In my experience most people use either shrpie pens/permanent markers or kyosho Micron tape, I know the Micron tape sells very well both on ebay and on TC and lots of people on here use it.

cheers

[Jumpinugly]

You guys are the best! Thanks so much for chiming in on this subject. It's Micron or bust for starters, then the old standby: Sharpies.

Best to all, Guy

[VagabondStarJXF]

In my experience most people use either shrpie pens/permanent markers or kyosho Micron tape, I know the Micron tape sells very well both on ebay and on TC and lots of people on here use it.

cheers

I used to use the pens myself but my hand isn't as steady as I'd like so my efforts were a bit odd at best. To be honest I was going to try the Micron tape but now that I've found some Maskol I'm going to give that a shot first. Micron Tape definitely looks like the easiest and tidiest option.

[Brooklyn Nights]

In my experience most people use either shrpie pens/permanent markers or kyosho Micron tape, I know the Micron tape sells very well both on ebay and on TC and lots of people on here use it.

cheers

Here's a question....if you make a mistake with a sharpie permanent marker, would a normal pencil rubber/eraser remove the mark? I think it will as its on lexan but never tried it as yet! Anyone know?

Cheers

Rich

[VagabondStarJXF]

I used to use a little lighter fluid on some cotton wool. A quick wipe cleans it off and another clean piece of cotton wool wipes off the residue. I've never had any damage to my lexan shells doing this but then I've never left any residue on there long enough. I didn't always use a sharpie pen, often got other black markers to do the lines, but this technique seems to work on all the permanent markers I've used so far.

[Brooklyn Nights]

I used to use a little lighter fluid on some cotton wool. A quick wipe cleans it off and another clean piece of cotton wool wipes off the residue. I've never had any damage to my lexan shells doing this but then I've never left any residue on there long enough. I didn't always use a sharpie pen, often got other black markers to do the lines, but this technique seems to work on all the permanent markers I've used so far.

I actually think a rubber will work on ANY marker pen to be honest not just sharpie's.... Think its time to find some scrap lexan! If it does work than its one less chemical on the lexan!

Cheers

Rich

[Sideways-King]

Great topic. I've never done any panel lines on RC cars, though I've often admired and WOW'd out many of the showroom entries which have been done. I wanted however to chuck in my pennies worth. When I was in my 1/24th static building phase I used to thin the paint down alot and simply load up the brush with the thinned out paint and touch the top of the shut line and if careful enough it used to run down the channel perfectly. Obvious points to note, not TOO much on the brush but enough, move the body to roll it down the channel and with some tissue at hand wipe of any excess that creeps out on to the body. Unless your making a shelf queen and it's an ABS body then this wouldn't be much use, thought I'd chip in though.

Night all!