Brushless Requirements

[Pavster]

Guys,

Very quickly, do I have to have a slipper clutch if I want to use brushless? This is for any car, not a specific model.

Cheers,

Pav

[Kokuzu]

No, slipper clutches are not needed for any model.

it really depends how much power you want to 'donate' to you car:

There are some factors to be considered:

BL Combo type:

1. Power and torque varies a lot for the BL motors available today. Some are less strong than a super modified brushed motor....

2. Sensored motors support soft acceleration modes (limit the max. torque) as well as fully flexible break programming. Sensor-less combos have a very limited range of settings and are a little tougher to the drive train....

Car type:

1. Weight of the car to be accelerated: the heavier the car, the more torque the drive train has to cover. (assuming you have the right grip rates)

2. Type of car: Buggy, GP, rubber, foam etc. influence the grip rate. The higher the grip, the more torque the engine will bring into the drive train.

So a lot of talking but no clear message.... Sorry for that:-)

[Butler]

Slipper clutches are needed to protect the drivetrain when jumping. (Well landing)

[Origineelreclamebord]

Like Butler already mentioned, a slipper clutch is to protect the gears from hard hits when landing from jumps. It in the past has also been used as a traction control system, but nowadays it's not intended for such use anymore: Electronic functions are much more consistent if you want a smoother and less violent power supply.

For a brushless you certainly don't need a slipper clutch. If you want to keep your gears good for a longer period of time the best thing you can do is to buy a system that you can only throw into reverse from a standstill or low speed, and preferably set up at a mild acceleration.

PS: What IS a requirement for (many) brushless systems is a good battery. I wouldn't go for the unknown cheap-o brands unless you know it's a relabeled battery from an A-grade brand

[Pavster]

Guys, thanks for the replies. I have a DF03 MS which is what i would originally shove the brushless into(looking at a nice and cheap EZRUN 8.5/7.5 turn). I only play with the car once a month(if that) so not too worried about the gearings getting ruined. I want to get a nice cheap car to break so was asking about the slipper.

[stu22]

...PS: What IS a requirement for (many) brushless systems is a good battery. I wouldn't go for the unknown cheap-o brands unless you know it's a relabeled battery from an A-grade brand

+1

A slipper is not strictly necessary. There are plenty of DB01's out there running hot motors without one and holding up (the belt drive does help though.)

The battery is more important IMHO. An over taxed NiMH will vent itself, or with a stick pack, blow out the side. In one sense it's not "dangerous" since it can't start a fire like a LiPo, but you're gonna get some super heated steam that can scald human flesh and the electronics really don't like getting wet. I had a Trinity 4600 NiMH blow out a cell running a pretty mild Novak 13.5T SS.

[Origineelreclamebord]

+1

A slipper is not strictly necessary. There are plenty of DB01's out there running hot motors without one and holding up (the belt drive does help though.)

The battery is more important IMHO. An over taxed NiMH will vent itself, or with a stick pack, blow out the side. In one sense it's not "dangerous" since it can't start a fire like a LiPo, but you're gonna get some super heated steam that can scald human flesh and the electronics really don't like getting wet. I had a Trinity 4600 NiMH blow out a cell running a pretty mild Novak 13.5T SS.

You can check whether your NiMh battery is in good nick by looking at the temperatures of the cells seperately. If one is much hotter than the other(s), then it's probably not balanced right anymore - like LiPo batteries, you can of course also balance NiMh cells (although with LiPo it's a necessity, and with NiMh you can use them safely without).

Also, I've been told the risk of NiMh blowouts increases when the capacity of the batteries gets high. The battery technology is pushed to and effectively over the edge to get that little bit more power, which makes them unreliable. It's the reason why I chose for a Team Orion 2700mAh NiMh Rocket Pack (with TRX Plug) - worked great so far for all my cars (from Tamiya's Sports Tuned Motor to 8.5T Brushless) - and to be honest the average 20-35 minute runtime I got from each charge so far is good enough for me as well And I can probably squeeze more mAh in it and more runtime out of it if I would charge it slower and leave it charging over night.

[Pavster]

You can check whether your NiMh battery is in good nick by looking at the temperatures of the cells seperately. If one is much hotter than the other(s), then it's probably not balanced right anymore - like LiPo batteries, you can of course also balance NiMh cells (although with LiPo it's a necessity, and with NiMh you can use them safely without).

Also, I've been told the risk of NiMh blowouts increases when the capacity of the batteries gets high. The battery technology is pushed to and effectively over the edge to get that little bit more power, which makes them unreliable. It's the reason why I chose for a Team Orion 2700mAh NiMh Rocket Pack (with TRX Plug) - worked great so far for all my cars (from Tamiya's Sports Tuned Motor to 8.5T Brushless) - and to be honest the average 20-35 minute runtime I got from each charge so far is good enough for me as well And I can probably squeeze more mAh in it and more runtime out of it if I would charge it slower and leave it charging over night.

Well, I currently run an Ansmann 3700MaH 7.2v battery. Never really had any problems with it, but if someone knows anymore info as to whether it will run fine with brushless, please let me know!! I don't want anything to blow up!!