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Posted

I have a King Hauler with the MFU and having trouble running the wires along the ladder frame neatly. I first used black electrical insulation tape which came away so then tried 'duct' or 'gaffer' tape and it still came away after a while and the wires run close to the drive shafts and I worry they will get damaged.

Posted
I have a King Hauler with the MFU and having trouble running the wires along the ladder frame neatly. I first used black electrical insulation tape which came away so then tried 'duct' or 'gaffer' tape and it still came away after a while and the wires run close to the drive shafts and I worry they will get damaged.

Hi.

I used heat shrink tube it works really well and its very tidy.

It can be purchased from most palces thats sell elecrtronic gear or just do a search on ebay or the net for "Heat Shrink tubing".

You can get it in various colours and sizes once you have your wires in the heat shrink tubing use a hair dryer on the lowest setting about 15-30 cm away from the tubing ,the tubing will shrink around the wires .

Its a very good method .

Hope that helps :(

Stuart.

Posted
i use zip ties and them small sticky clamp things that come with the MFU or electrical unit set.

that is exactly how I wired the lights on my scania

Posted

This is during my M4A1E8 build and although it is a Tamiya Sherman tank, it does show how tie straps (zip ties) really work and could retain wires to a frame using any existing hole. AND they do make very small tie straps too.

HPIM3099.jpg

Ignoring the spaghetti issue in front of the speaker when I was experimenting with a Turnigy chip (which I have since removed) pretty much all my cables/wires lay flat and very neatly arranged.

HPIM3098.jpg

And just to show if off, here it is just before the tools were painted and added.

HPIM3151.jpg

HPIM3143.jpg

HPIM3146.jpg

HPIM3149.jpg

- Jeff

Posted

On my king hauler and knight hauler I braided the wires together in looms then covered the exposed ones with heat shrink tubing.

Posted
Panther F is that the mato sherman upper hull top on a Tamiya lower hull

Oh, no way! It's Nick Aguilar's resin upper hull, transmission cover and his T-23 turret as well with the Tamiya kit. Lots of scratch built parts and SCHUMO items (as well as other manufacturers) on there as well. My photos do not do it justice for you cannot see the texture in the casting for both parts ... PLUS, this was finished 2 months before that Mato thing came out.

His parts are high quality all the way, modelers grade.

- Jeff

Posted
Oh, no way! It's Nick Aguilar's resin upper hull, transmission cover and his T-23 turret as well with the Tamiya kit. Lots of scratch built parts and SCHUMO items (as well as other manufacturers) on there as well. My photos do not do it justice for you cannot see the texture in the casting for both parts ... PLUS, this was finished 2 months before that Mato thing came out.

His parts are high quality all the way, modelers grade.

- Jeff

Jeff, I Apologise to you and Nick, I just assumed that you had transplanted the mato upper hull onto the tamiya lower hull. Not realising that the upper hull could be bought in resin from Nick.

Posted

No apologies needed. That was an expensive build that took almost 2 years to complete. The biggest thing was attaching the Tamiya side fender extensions to Nicks resin hull and scratch build the front fenders out of styrene. Numerous other details like a full folding rear shelf, road wheel bearings with other metal upgrades in the suspension area. Kenny Kong metal tracks, IMPACT front sprocket, Daryl Turner rear idler upgrade ... too much to remember right now. :lol:

I started out with a few different parts at the beginning, but feel I made the right choices.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6601231/tm.htm

- Jeff

Posted
On my king hauler and knight hauler I braided the wires together in looms then covered the exposed ones with heat shrink tubing.

+1 for that recipe.

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