Glueing Or Bonding Metal Parts

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

Hi Everyone,

I am working on a project and I need a driveshaft length that doesn't actually exist. Therefor I am making my own custom driveshaft length by cutting down the driveshaft and lengthening it - the two cut pieces will be connected by a tube that fits perfectly around the driveshafts.

The driveshaft is regular steel, the tube is stainless steel. I need to bond the two materials together as strong as possible, as it will need to survive the brunt of a 2WD buggy with a quick (5T-ish) brushless system.

So I was wondering... What do you think would be the best (brand and type) glue to bond the materials together? (Or of course another way to bond them)

[DIFFLOCK 0]

apart from trying to weld them?

I guess JB Weld is a pretty good 2 part epoxy suitable for metal.

Diff.

[kevinthegerbil 1]

If you can get the adhesive to have a good bond, remember to make sure that you haven't put the balance of the drive-shaft out.

I can remember that the original Hotshot had a 3 piece drive shaft set and when I raced them in the 80's involved gluing them together. It was a relief when the one piece Boomerang drive-shafts came out.

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

apart from trying to weld them?

I guess JB Weld is a pretty good 2 part epoxy suitable for metal.

Diff.

JB Weld is a paste-like substance from what I can see...? So, how fine is it? Is it grainy or smooth, and is it a hard but mouldable substance (like clay) or more of a thick liquid (like a thick oil)?

And Kevin, the balancing will indeed be another issue. I might try letting the glue or JB weld cure while it's rotating - by either putting it in a drill or by fitting it to the car straight away and having it idle for 'some' time

[JeepnMike 150]

JB Weld is a paste-like substance from what I can see...? So, how fine is it? Is it grainy or smooth, and is it a hard but mouldable substance (like clay) or more of a thick liquid (like a thick oil)?

And Kevin, the balancing will indeed be another issue. I might try letting the glue or JB weld cure while it's rotating - by either putting it in a drill or by fitting it to the car straight away and having it idle for 'some' time

When the two liquids are mixed together it forms more of a thick gel type appearance that I would say is semi-mouldable substance that dries fast. It should actually be perfect for what you are trying to do and could possibly be the only thing that will last long-term.

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

When the two liquids are mixed together it forms more of a thick gel type appearance that I would say is semi-mouldable substance that dries fast. It should actually be perfect for what you are trying to do and could possibly be the only thing that will last long-term.

Ok, Nice So you kind of say it's stronger than a thorough application of Cyano Acrylate Glue? (Which was the first thing I thought of when I came with this plan)?

PS: I forgot to add: Those driveshafts (in this case DB01 Rear WO Universal Shaft) are made of pretty tough steel! I know my father buys cheap saw blades, but the fact that I totally blunted one shows that it's a pretty tough material I think!

[MadM@t 0]

Not sure that any kind of glue/bond would give you much durability,

I've added a pic for the way i would tackle this problem, easier than explaining, hope its of any use,

Matt.

[WillyChang 1814]

JB Weld will do it - it etches into metals and forms a very strong bond + space filler

roughen up the surfaces to be glued with edge of a file to give them more key, degrease thoroughly

when mixed its consistency of putty or epoxy, takes a day to cure properly and better if kept in a warm place.

I usually put it near a lit lightbulb (incandescent... none of that newfangled modern energy savers)

[TWINSET 1793]

There's two types of JB Weld too - ones a 2-part putty the other comes in two small tubes - the tube version is a lot runnier so may be easier to apply inside a bore, plus it'll squeeze itself around more

The tube stuff smooths down nicely with a wet finger;

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

Thanks for the replies I have ordered some JB Weld right away, the two tube one I'll make sure everything is degreased well: I guess white spirit+toothbrush, after that rinsing with water and letting it dry should do? And making the surfaces rougher shouldn't be a problem.

@Madmat: I see what you mean. It works right if there is enough room to make a thread. However, the tube is too thin to make a thread, but I am afraid the material is so thin that making any holes will seriously compromise it's strength (the tube is only 0.3mm thick - so it's actually a good question whether the tube is actually strong enough for running - I might fill it up with JB Weld completely depending on it's weight).

[Singapore_959 18]

The length you need may exist - you never know. Why not post up the dimensions you need?

Then people can look around or suggest options and ideas.

Did you pass everything?

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

The length you need may exist - you never know. Why not post up the dimensions you need?

Then people can look around or suggest options and ideas.

Did you pass everything?

Tamiya doesn't have it, so I started entering the lengths and ticked 'search description' on both ebay and google and found only Chinese manufacturer's stuff which has zero parts availability, no universals (just dogbones) and no way to check the quality of their parts.

The universals I've already cut will be for the Dyna Lightning, using the aluminum DT02 rear uprights from Square and the Dyna Storm Rear Arms. The width is slightly different than the Dyna Storm's uprights, making it unable to fit the DB01 Rear or Front universals, the Dyna Storm ones, the Dyna Blaster ones or the DF03/DF02 ones. For finishing the project I don't want to compromise performance with regular dogbones or cheap-o universals, so the only option left is to make ones fit. I don't want to wait for the TRF201 to come out, so I guessed 'making' my own ones would be the best option

I tried looking at carbon tubes first, but it's just asking to much for the right material and the right diameter. When choosing carbon, it was either a 3mm inside diameter shaft, or a 4mm one. Either way it would become hard to balance the final part as the diameter, as the driveshaft is 3.3mm in diameter. I did find a stainless steel shaft with the right diameter. Although slightly heavier, I knew it was more important than getting that 5 gram weight saving

PS: I will also use the same method on another project of mine, so it is destined to work... Or otherwise I wasted a lot of money, not just on the universals: Also on a whole custom project

PS: I may look at fitting TRF201 Uni's and/or uprights to the Dyna Lightning later on

[loaded 4]

+1 on the JB Weld. It is insanely strong. It is stronger than the sort of spot welds done on kitchen utensils, as I repaired a pair of tongs and when they broke again, it was in a different place. If applied correctly it is great stuff.

Paul.

[DIFFLOCK 0]

I forgot to mention that JB Weld (two tube version) is what has patched up a couple of small pinholes in the bottom of my motorcycle's fuel tank. No more leaks! Even when some petrol slopped over the epoxy all it did was make it easy to smooth out with my finger.

Diff.

[WillyChang 1814]

i JB Welded an engine mount 8yrs ago... there's a few hundred pounds there, still holding up strong

was joining aluminium & steel too, so it cannot be welded via conventional means - JB is great for dissimilar metals.

Plus there is plenty of oil & petrol around so welding sparks would've been too dangerous + restricted access.

2-part JB has about 10min working time; if its too runny when first mixed leave it for 5mins before working

[Singapore_959 18]

...

The universals I've already cut will be for the Dyna Lightning, using the aluminum DT02 rear uprights from Square and the Dyna Storm Rear Arms. ...

If I read that correctly, you are just trying to correct fit the square rear uprights on a std width DS? If so no need to cut anything! skype me with video and I can walk you through it - no need to cut anything but sounds too late

Interesting to learn about JB weld tho. Will have to buy some to keep handy.

Projects are fun.

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

If I read that correctly, you are just trying to correct fit the square rear uprights on a std width DS? If so no need to cut anything! skype me with video and I can walk you through it - no need to cut anything but sounds too late

Interesting to learn about JB weld tho. Will have to buy some to keep handy.

Projects are fun.

Woops In that case I will use these driveshafts for the other project I'm working on, it requires the same kind of driveshaft I don't have Skype, but I'll install it - unless you can explain it to me of course without video/using Skype

[emory70 153]

i don't know about compatibilty with steel and stainless steel, but there is a glue available for metal that is stronger than welding. it was developed for NASCAR, and it is so strong that when panels properly bonded, the metal will break before the glue does. my buddy uses it in the real cars he builds, cause it eliminates the chance of warping from welding. needless to say, it is VERY expensive.

ok, so i'm not a lot of help, but i have a vast wealth of useless knowledge

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

i don't know about compatibilty with steel and stainless steel, but there is a glue available for metal that is stronger than welding. it was developed for NASCAR, and it is so strong that when panels properly bonded, the metal will break before the glue does. my buddy uses it in the real cars he builds, cause it eliminates the chance of warping from welding. needless to say, it is VERY expensive.

ok, so i'm not a lot of help, but i have a vast wealth of useless knowledge

Well it is a nice thing to know actually I don't know what the product name is, but knowing it's out there is good if I do want something stronger than JB Weld - although I think it's not easy to find (from what I've read). I guess what makes the glue very expensive is not only it's price for the quantity you get, but also the actual quantity you can get - I think they don't sell the glue in small tubes of approximately 10ml?

[emory70 153]

probably not. my buddy says it is very expensive, and this is a guy that's building a $150,000 camaro

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

probably not. my buddy says it is very expensive, and this is a guy that's building a $150,000 camaro

That's probably somewhat over budget for me then I think...

In the meantime the JB Weld has arrived - I don't have time yet to try it all out, but as soon as I have the results on if it's strong enough etc, I'll let you guys know. Thanks for all the advice!