My Brushless Lunchbox

[emory70 153]

so i figured i'd start my own build thread. so far i have the crp front suspension more or less figured out. still need shocks though. rear suspension is up in the air. wheels and tires are hpi monster ss and pro line dirt paw. there's not much to see in the photo, but i think it's coming along to be a pretty menacing looking box. perfect!

[glassback 1]

so i figured i'd start my own build thread. so far i have the crp front suspension more or less figured out. still need shocks though. rear suspension is up in the air. wheels and tires are hpi monster ss and pro line dirt paw. there's not much to see in the photo, but i think it's coming along to be a pretty menacing looking box. perfect!

Looks like it's going to be a great truck! Love the front suspension and the wheel / tyre combo! Do they fit straight on with no mods? Can't wait to see more!

Rich

[emory70 153]

the hpi monster ss wheels come with adapters to fit them to most anything. i had a set of chrome ones on my old monster beetle and they chipped very easily. i'd advise against them

[emory70 153]

got my replacement package from tower hobbies (ups driver left last package on the porch, and by the time i got home, some passerby had stolen it. it was my radio, novak brushless, bearings, servo...). now i'm all set except for batteries and shocks. i know i want/need 3" units front and rear, but i'm having a time deciding on what ones. i know i'll need to be able to swap out springs and oil until i find what works for the truck, so i'm considering associated 1.02 shocks... but they are so expensive.

[gothcat 0]

Great looking build so far Looking forward to more pictures

[emory70 153]

thanks. i hope to have some progress soon. my body came in the other day, so i'm gonna try and paint and trim it for a poser shot

[emory70 153]

ok, so i placed my "final" order for my lunchbox project. $525 so far. oh, wait, i forgot the crp front end from ebay... gr... ok, $550 total. am i just a total tool, or is this normal?

[glassback 1]

Perfectly normal!!! Just wish I had the cash to spent on rc instead of boring housey things!!

What have you spent $500 on??

Rich

[emory70 153]

bearings, tires, wheels, shocks and springs, lexan body, novak brushless, radio, batteries, charger, servo, pinion, crp steering kit, paint...

just the usual stuff. i've had to kinda start over, as my original stash of rc junk had been decimated.

[emory70 153]

so what i thought was my last order showed up the other day. i was very happy until i realized that i can't read a ruler. i got rear shocks that are just plain r-o-n-g. grr!!! anyway... i have other things to work on like the steering and body mounts, which brings me to the point of my rant...

has anyone looked at doing more conventional long vertical body mounts for the lunchbox? i'm going to stare at my truck over the coming week to find a solution. i know a lot of folks are using aluminum mounts, but i know those have no give and will destroy a lexan body (esp used to warn against using aluminum mounts on serious runners and racers for that reason). long bolink style 1/4x20 nylon hardware seems to be a much better choice for those of us willing to depart from tamiya's engineering. the longer mounts flex more without breaking or damaging the body.

tests to follow, hopefully with some killer cell phone pics.

[MadInventor 3884]

so what i thought was my last order showed up the other day. i was very happy until i realized that i can't read a ruler. i got rear shocks that are just plain r-o-n-g. grr!!! anyway... i have other things to work on like the steering and body mounts, which brings me to the point of my rant...

has anyone looked at doing more conventional long vertical body mounts for the lunchbox? i'm going to stare at my truck over the coming week to find a solution. i know a lot of folks are using aluminum mounts, but i know those have no give and will destroy a lexan body (esp used to warn against using aluminum mounts on serious runners and racers for that reason). long bolink style 1/4x20 nylon hardware seems to be a much better choice for those of us willing to depart from tamiya's engineering. the longer mounts flex more without breaking or damaging the body.

tests to follow, hopefully with some killer cell phone pics.

What I used to do to help prevent trashing bodyshells was to mount a flat plate of aluminium or GRP about 2cm below the contact point with the bodyshell, then glue semi rigid foam to it. This can then be contoured to the bodyshell with a modelling knife, and a layer of velcro stuck to the top. velcro added to the underside of the shell then holds the body on. In the event of a crash or rollover, the foam has a small amount of give, and if it's a big wallop the velcro comes apart. The advantage to this is that no body post holes require drilling in the shell, so there is no weak point to split, and there is a much larger surface area for the bodywork to spread the impact over. This worked particularly well on a clodbuster I had where the plates could be mounted straight acress the original body posts after the tops had been chopped off.

For a lunch box shell, you could try cutting the pins off the old body post, screw a piece of lexan from the front > rear each side on the body posts, then add velcro to the lexan and the side of the bodyshell. If you roll it hard, the velcro will give way (Absorbing some of the impact energy), and the body will just be pushed into the tyres.

Hope this helps.

[emory70 153]

i've done the velcro body mount thing too. the truck is on hold right now, so i have time to figure out what i wanna do with it.

i need to get a proper setup for truck building/maintenance. the lopsided round kitchen table just isn't cutting it anymore.

i also have a few ideas for my clod(s), and it/they are probably gonna take top priority now.