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ShayD

Re-using Original Decals

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I have several cars lined up for restorations, enough to keep me going for months. But there's one question that stops me attempting at least 2 of them (Martini mk22/March BMW) Can I carefully remove the original decals, repaint the body and then reapply the decals? I keep meaning to try some experiments and haven't yet got around to it. So I thought I'd ask if anyone had developed a method?

I managed to remove several decals from an old Frog shell and store them temporarily on a PVC sheet ... but it's the reapplication that's the tricky part ... fresh adhesive etc ...

So anyone had any success? ...

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ooo that would be hard, the biggest issue is the glue not 100% pulling away from the body usually around the edges then when you reapply the sticker curls from the edge.

in film decals they make a decal softener however i'm sure that would kill the glue on the back, i've used VERY thin double sided tape on a few decals but it never looks great, thickens the decals.

once i tried to glue a decal down with rubber cement, i tacked both the body and the decal and well it came out thick like the use of double sided tape.

the best success i had was i laid a used decal down on a body using a heat gun, then while it was still hotish, i dropped some clear 5" wide 3m Clear tape on top and using the heat gun forced everything flat, then i had to go back and cut the clear tape back a little bigger then the used decal was cut so the edges would stay down, it made the decal thicker but wasn't too bad, this was a LARGE sticker on the hood so it was livable.

i once reused the decals on a black foot, after i stuck them back on the body i heavily clearcoated on top over everything i basically built up layers of clear on top of the body and decals and made them one surface. it came out ok, but doesn't look like stock.

I'm thinking of experimenting with photographers spray mount ... there are two types ... replaceable and permanent. This adhesive is very tacky and appears colourless. If you can get the decal off the model without it deteriorating signifcantly, It might be possible to reapply it with permanent spray mount and then, as you mention, clear coat it.

I have a March BMW, which mechanically is in excellent condition, but the paint is yellowing and the decals are lifting. I'd really like to make a thorough job of restoring it, but I want to avoid repro decals if possible.

I have a can of spray mount somewhere ... I will try some preliminary experiments with old decals etc.

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I would say this is almost impossible.

The decals that you peel off will curl heavily, and you will have a hard time keeping it from sticking to itself. I can't even imagine how you will manage to get them back on again...

But, if you make it, I will be the first to congratulate you ;)

-Lars

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Hey guys,

this is something that I'm trying to solve for some time now.

I have a like new Monster Beetle with a squashed Body. The decals are still perfect and it would be a shame to dump them.

I've read a post from someone with a Blackfoot here who managed to peel of the decals, de-glue them with an alcohol detergent and reapplied them sucessfully with SOME adhesive. But I failed digging up that post again...

Please tell us how that photographic adhesive works!

Christian

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I've just been reading about "3M 77 spray" ... some guys using it to attach decals to their RC 'planes ...

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I use boiling water. I've done it for 20 years. As long as you can peel the decal off you can then repair/paint the body. I keep the decal on a empty decal sheet, then just re apply them push them down and tip a kettle over each individual decal repress it down and dab it with kitchen paper. (then move onto the next decal, apply, kettle and dab.

Sometimes the decal might shrink but it's happened only a few times over all the years I've done it.

I was told this trick by a guy who used to run my local model shop when I was a lad. (obviously I would say you need to be very careful when doing it, as skin and boiling water = massive burns)

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I use boiling water. I've done it for 20 years. As long as you can peel the decal off you can then repair/paint the body. I keep the decal on a empty decal sheet, then just re apply them push them down and tip a kettle over each individual decal repress it down and dab it with kitchen paper. (then move onto the next decal, apply, kettle and dab.

Sometimes the decal might shrink but it's happened only a few times over all the years I've done it.

I was told this trick by a guy who used to run my local model shop when I was a lad. (obviously I would say you need to be very careful when doing it, as skin and boiling water = massive burns)

That sounds like a good technique ... I shall give that a try on a spare shell. Thanks very much. ;)

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