I'm trying to get my motor to give up smoking...

[mr_lister999. 3]

My motor in my Ranger keeps smoking about half way through the battery life (Only using the original hump back battery). Have tried 3 motors and 2 batteries and the same thing. My last motor got a cremation Gear box is reasonably smooth and the car goes alright but smokes and gets very hot. I have even used my modified motor casing which has a large cut out to allow air cooling but still the same thing!!! Am using an LRP speed control (its new and i had the problem with my old one as well). Any suggestions guys?

Edited by - mr_lister999. on 11 Sep 2002 19:11:19

[acprc 1443]

HIya...

Did this happen when you tried the other motors? are they all overheating? Are you straining the motor on rough surfaces or is it on any conditions.

Adam

[Shodog 1835]

I would gear it down. use the smallest pinion and largest spur. there has to be something stopping your drivetrain up. Are your motors worn out?

[DJTheo 2]

Strange, my SS runner runs even with new 1700mAh batteries and Black Motor Sprint without getting hot... Could it be that your gearbox is worn out and has high friction when its revving up?

http://www.vintagetamiyarc.com/

[mr_lister999. 3]

1 motor is old, 1 is lightly used, 1 is new. I run it on fairly short flat grass. Its very strange as my other cars (scorcher and rider drove fine for the full battery and only got reasonably warm. I might have to change to ballrace bearings and try that. What i don't understand is that when the car is lifted off the floor it revs fine, with nice accelerations and top speed. Put it on the floor and it goes fine, but smokes!!!! Its a shame i have never ran one of these cars fron New (as i am only 19) but i have never had any trouble in the past with other cars. I feel another rebuild coming on...

[raemin 0]

By chance would it be possible that there is some WD40 or any oil/grease related product on the motor collector? Just a stupid question, but given their is a comunication between the gearbox and the engine, I personnally had to tape the engine window in order to prevent the oil from getting in.

Raoul

visit my replica traderoom

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[mr_lister999. 3]

No oil on any of the bits, probably just worn bearings i suppose. Just tyaken delivery of a Scorcher, Rough Ridser and Ranger. I will try one with the ESC and see what happens. I will let you know when i do.

[raemin 0]

I would recomend to use a circuit breaker, instead of smoking the car would stop ...

Raoul

visit my replica traderoom

id=size1>

[mr_lister999. 3]

Well i was saving my NIB circuit breaker for my new built scorcher but i suppose this is the best bet. Worth a try i suppose.

[PandaBear 1]

Could be worn bearings, or (on a severe overheating) could also be a melted plastic endcap.

The rotor can heat up & melt the plastic around the endbell bushing enough to move it off-centre... thereafter you'll have brushes arcing & regular overheating. Quite a common problem with the black endbell Mabuchis.

[mr_lister999. 3]

I changed the bearings a while back (sorry, forgot to update forum). Works fine now. turned smoothly before though but it worked so never mind.) Thanks guys