Slammed 67' Bug Build Thread

[Tamiya1/10]

There are lots of replies, so didn't go through everyone of them....but is "slammed" similar to low rider? Does it have hydrallic shocks where the height can be adjusted? If not, I can see damages to the under carriage when going up a drive way or encounter a speed bump. The same for RC, if too low, sewage grid or uneveness on the road would scrap the underside and suffer road damages.

Just a thought, has anyone thought of putting a starter flint, from lighter under the RC so these slammed or low rider would create sparks when driving? I don't think a metal plate would work on the 1/10 scale

[jubaluba]

There are lots of replies, so didn't go through everyone of them....but is "slammed" similar to low rider? Does it have hydrallic shocks where the height can be adjusted? If not, I can see damages to the under carriage when going up a drive way or encounter a speed bump. The same for RC, if too low, sewage grid or uneveness on the road would scrap the underside and suffer road damages.

Just a thought, has anyone thought of putting a starter flint, from lighter under the RC so these slammed or low rider would create sparks when driving? I don't think a metal plate would work on the 1/10 scale

It means super low. Like someone just slammed it into the ground so hard that the suspension collapsed.

Most lowered VW's is using the adjustable "Puma" front suspension, and short shocks. And in some situations no shocks at all.

A guy at www.thesamba.com owns and drives a 1967 beetle, that is lowered so much that he's had to cut of some of the lower part of the suspension to get some ground clearance in the front.

There's a few pictures of it somewhere in this thread.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4494963

And a video here.

http://www.streetfire.net/video/slammed-ba...1-sup_45220.htm

Personally, I like to se the whole tire and a bit of air under the car. But there sure are some great looking slammed cars out there.

[tonysmini]

The lighter flint idea could work, my son has a scooter that has this, he wore it all out in three days but it looked very impressive.

I'm just wondering about what sort of speed you'll need to get up to so they will spark sufficiently, and if there will be enough weight in the car.

You could glue them to a small leaf spring affair so they trail on the ground like those anti static straps you used to see on cars years ago.

[Will16]

Looks great. Who makes the shell.

Will

[Skottoman]

Did you notice the creepy face in the side rear window on this pic? Hahaha....

Great looking project. I think the cup racer wheels 6mm off set would look great in rear (especially for the deep dish look), if they will fit.

Cheers,

Skottoman

[Dante77]

Nice vid!

Which dogbones did you end up using?

Today I installed shorter steering rods, 11mm between ball ends vs 18mm on a stock beetle..

And then I grabbed a rx, esc from one of my other rigs, pluss a spare servo and mounted them up..

Test time

After a small test on the carpet in the bedroom, I can confirm no rubbing at bodywork what so ever

Due bad lightning of the bed room my short video clip was too dark to be shown.

So I went outside and faound a small dry patch of asphalt in my driveway (two days ago there was 2" + of snow here)..

Will upload it as soon it finished

And here it is: http://vimeo.com/16121342

Still no rubbing outside either, just some small rocks that banged against the low chassis a few times

[caprinut]

There are lots of replies, so didn't go through everyone of them....but is "slammed" similar to low rider? Does it have hydrallic shocks where the height can be adjusted? If not, I can see damages to the under carriage when going up a drive way or encounter a speed bump. The same for RC, if too low, sewage grid or uneveness on the road would scrap the underside and suffer road damages.

Just a thought, has anyone thought of putting a starter flint, from lighter under the RC so these slammed or low rider would create sparks when driving? I don't think a metal plate would work on the 1/10 scale

Jubaluba explained this 100% correct..

Slammed is a term VW and small truck (both us trucks and other) uses when they are heavly lowered, some run airbags, some hydr and some normal suspension, the term is used on all these three systems..

But usually a thread is started like "slammed on airbags" or "slammed on hydrallic" etc.....

Low rider term is most used on big US cars that are lowered, like old Impalas etc...

I can raise the front of the chassis aprox 4-5mm, but I have to make that adjustable suspension rod first to replace the front damper..

Then it will have std Mchassis hight, there is a tiny bit of rake on this chassis now..

You can get drifting tires that contains flint in them to make spark wheen spinning, you could take a such tire apart and glue them on the bottom of the chassis, they are just 3-4mm high I think...

I won't have sparks on mine, I just think that is looking daft..

My will be a slow cruiser, with many details, like a show car, so I no park lot raicing for me...

I may also make a trailer later to haul this car around...

Thin sheet of alu would work great to protect the underside of the chassis, but I don't need one as the chassis will be in std M chassis hight when finished..

[caprinut]

Looks great. Who makes the shell.

Will

As stated earlyer, the body is Tamiya, made for the M02 and the M04...

[caprinut]

Did you notice the creepy face in the side rear window on this pic? Hahaha....

Great looking project. I think the cup racer wheels 6mm off set would look great in rear (especially for the deep dish look), if they will fit.

Cheers,

Skottoman

Thanx very much mate ;-)

Yes, somebody told me, didn't notice that first

Yes think the cup wheel will fit perfectly, tested with just a 7mm wheel without tire, the wheel is less then 1mm wider than the fender, and I haven't narrowed the rear suspension yet

[caprinut]

Nice vid!

Which dogbones did you end up using?

Thanx mate

Still running stock dog bones, I haven't narrowed the rear track yet...

Works fine when driving, binds a little when the car is of ground...

[beetleman]

That's a great project mate. Coincidentally I too have started a similar project a couple of weeks ago - a slammed Ford F-150. Can't wait to see your finished result!

[caprinut]

Update

I have done some more work on the bug...

The chassis is raised a bit to clear small rocks when cruising on the parking lot..

I guess it now have the double of clearance it had the before..

Can almost get a Tamiya wheel wrench clear under the chassis.

And I now have replaced the front shock with a adjustable bar.

My new steering linkage with 11mm between ball ends..

I have been thinking alot of my Erco wheels the last days...

Was thinking real hard about I really want to use my Buggy Champ Smooth Covers as my Erco wheels...

In of my part boxes I found 4x used front Buggy Champ wheels with total bald tires...

After some plundring I had this...

Left is front cover, BC middle part and backside, pluss beetle tire.

Right side is rear cover, BC middle part and backside, together with beetle tire..

It wasn't possible to get the BC middle part into a regular M size tire, the tire was too short in hight...

Frontwheel....

Rearwheel..

The front tire is now a bit round because the narrow sides squeeze the tire sides together...

Rear wheel is perfect, have to change the tire as for now I have just tested with racing tire and it's to square..

Diffrence in front and rear wheel covers..

This is how a BC wheel looks like..

Backside

Backside of my Erco wheels..

My first tought was to use Lunchbox/Hornet wheel hex, but these ads too much width of the track..

Backside of hex..

So instead I will try to make a slot for the drive pin into a Tamiya metal bushing and epoxi that into the wheel.

Pretty sure it works for the rear, not to sure on the front tho...

I like

[caprinut]

It works

Wheels did fit under the fenders, but the rear rub on the fender lip.

Just placed the wheels onto the dive pin and tighned up.

I have yet to narrow the rear track, so there will be plenty of space

The front tire is to much outwards, but I hope when I get my custom shackles that the tire will be tucked some mm further in.

This is how it looks

Thight on space..

Nut much in rear either...

I like

Next up is narrowing the rear track....

[Kevin_Mc]

this is starting to look REALLY good

can't beat a mad VW

[Kevin_Mc]

a LHD Bug has literally just driven into my street there, just as low as this - rusted roof and crappy paint with shiny mooneyes and white walls - looks and sounds great, still aircooled.

i thought my Punto @ -110mm was low but this thing is peeling the road

[SHY69]

Brilliant work!

I really like the "resto Cal" look= low, moon caps, two colour, no door handles etc (clean look), roofwhatsitcalled with an old suitcase

[commiedoor]

dude ! go the orange and white dub ! i have seen a set of wheels just like them on eblah too !

[Will16]

I love those wheels. The car looks great!

[lee172]

Are you going to sand the body? i find it a makes a big visual difference to smooth out the slightly rough edges.

[Dante77]

Great job, mate! Keep up the good work!

[caprinut]

Thanx guys!!

Yes I gonna sand the body, a bit rough now....

[caprinut]

More progress on the beetle....

I have now narrowed the left rear side, and there is plenty of space

I'm guessing that my Erco wheels has around 8mm of set...

Some more pics from diffrent angles..

And this is my wheel hex.

Standard Tamyia wheel bushing that I'd make a slot for the drive pin.

This will be glued on the rear side of the wheel with epoxi later on..

And for just for fun, I did it test with my 7mm drift wheels, works fine with a few mm to spare

On top you can see my ultra short upper arms.

For now I just used a cut down servo wheel.

Needs a bit cleaning later

A front suspension arm, now lives in the rear..

Orginal susp arm on the left, front one on the right side..

Had to cut of the shock eye on the susp arm to be able to use the stock shocks.

My bolts was too short, so I simply used a front inner suspension pin, mounted front to back.

With this set up I can mount a stock shock on the suspension pin with a shock collar and mount the shock in the stock upper position.

Rear wheel is built of:

Inner BC, center BC - both from front wheel and a rear cover..

It's not possible to narrow this set up, if you don't use the front cover that is...

I won't because I 'm after the deep dish look.

The center part is almost the hight of the tire, tight but not impossible

What happens if you don't use the center part you may ask???

Well, then you have no mounting point for bushing/wheel hex etc..

You can use a grinded down Lunchbox/Hornet wheel hex, but that ads 5-7mm ekstra mm to the width....

Front wheel without the center part.

The center part keeps the shape of the tire because the inner and outer part not really fit the M tire...

[caprinut]

I have now bought one pair of front Porsche Fuchs wheels and one pair of rears...

And because Bullitt was so kind to invastigate how M tires fitted the cup wheels, I don't need to order the cup tires

But I need to get 1 set of regular M tires and one set of beetle tires later for the cup wheels, so all wheel set's are complete when I want to change them according to my mood...

I hope they turn up soon

And I have payed for my custom shackles so hope they will turn up soon too...

And I'm leening towards orange/white paint job....

Update on the bug project:

I'm getting more and more pleased now...

My first problem was that my front wheels was too close to the fenders by a few mm's.

I solved that problem by placing a Lunchbox hex between the wheel halves and binned the center pice all together..

Before I installed the hex I dremled the webs that goies into the Lunchbox/Hornet wheel so it was flat on the mounting face.

The tires are now sitting puuuuuurfect with a nice round shape to them.

My try of narrowing a regular M size tire failed, I think I have the wrong super glue.

Need to get me some rubberised za glue.

I'm now using the Beetle size tire as they fit good, the regular size tire just popped over the egde every time I bolted the wheel together..

Clearance everywhere...

Pics from other angles..

No rubbing when steering either

Both sides are now narrowed in the rear..

I really like the shape of the front tires

Backside of the wheel, inside you can see the Lunchbox hex.

I ordred some 2mm bolts and nuts today so I can soon finish up these wheels.

Gonna sand and polish them before use, they have several scratches here and there..

[caprinut]

Got my custom shackles in the mail today

Time for some wrenching

[BangkokBulldog]

Hurry up and finish it!, Cant wait to see this finished, great work!