Noob With Lots Of Questions!

[gshaw]

Hi all,

Found a link to your site via Google when trying to figure out what I need for a little project

I bought a Tamiya RC car on the cheap (£3!) at a boot sale a few years back after seeing that someone on eBay was going to be making Metro shells (guess what car I'm into lol). It never happened and the RC went into storage for a while until I found out about these

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...sid=p2759.l1259

But then I found a problem...

The one I have appears to be this...

http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/468_1_17570.html

Which is 240mm wheelbase instead of 257mm The guy on eBay reckons the QD is a stretched M-Series chassis and what I need is a T-Series... hope this makes some sense? I've had a look on eBay and it seems that you have to build these from scratch, including the radio kit etc?

So what I'm wondering is whether I can transfer all the motors, wheels, radio etc from the Pug and put it onto a bare T-Series chassis? Not sure how quick the one I have is compared to "proper" hobbyist-built RCs so any advice would be much appreciated

Don't want to spend megabucks on this as it's an on-the-side project really, what do you think is the best route for me?

Cheers

[VagabondStarJXF]

Welcome to the TC gshaw.

So what I'm wondering is whether I can transfer all the motors, wheels, radio etc from the Pug and put it onto a bare T-Series chassis?

I'm not familiar with that chassis but, assuming that the motor is a standard 540 size, I think the answer is yes to all.

Pretty much all the Tamiya touring car chassis' are 257mm wheelbase. There are shorter wheelbase ones like the 247mm TA04SS and a few 251mm wheelbase TT01 chassis variants so be careful when buying as to make sure you don't pick up one of them by mistake. Use the main site's reference section to help you find out more before you buy. I've always found it useful to help me with my chassis purchases. Do you know which type of chassis you're interested in? Are you planning on going off-road in any way, like rallying, or staying strictly on the tarmac? If you're going to do some off-roading then I think the DF03RA would work out nicely because you can get a DF03 buggy shell and use it as an undercowl to protect your radio gear.

[TA-Mark]

The QD (Quickdrive) series is only just a step above a radio control toy, not even up to the standard of an M-Chassis. Certainly not a hobby class radio control. The £3 you paid is a 'take it off my hands please' fee.

There will be very little from the QD that will be able to be used on a real hobby class RC.

The chassis under the body you have linked is a 257mm wheelbase TA02 rally chassis. I would use a TA02 or a TB01 as a rally chassis long before I'd ever buy another DF03.

[qatmix]

You would be best of getting a cheap tamiya chassis of eBay and assume the shell. You can get a perfectly good tamiya rolling chassis at times for a reasonable rate £30(ish) although it might seem alot you will then have a car that you can upgrade and will be enjoyable to use. Pm me if you need help.

If your bodyshell is good on the peugeout you will be able to sell that on eBay as they are a wanted shell. His will help you towards getting a rally metro sorted.

[VagabondStarJXF]

I would use a TA02 or a TB01 as a rally chassis long before I'd ever buy another DF03.

Is there a reason for this? I've built a Dark Impact for a friend and I couldn't see anything wrong with the construction but then I've never run a DF03. Is there a serious design flaw in the DF03 chassis that you can only find after running? I usually run a TA04 but was thinking of getting myself a DF03RA because of the undercowl idea.

[qatmix]

Is there a reason for this? I've built a Dark Impact for a friend and I couldn't see anything wrong with the construction but then I've never run a DF03. Is there a serious design flaw in the DF03 chassis that you can only find after running? I usually run a TA04 but was thinking of getting myself a DF03RA because of the undercowl idea.

Imho Df03's are fine. Mark has has an issue with his idle gear. We've raced ones for well over a year with 5.5t brushless systems and not had any issues (racing on dirt, grass, AstroTurf, gravel etc . I've sold mine now (I got a 501x) but my mate still has his.

Btw this is not a dig at mark, he obviously has loads of cars and knows what he is doing, maybe it's the conditions that he races in down under.

Although if you want a rally car the ta01/02 are hard to beat and undesputibly a reliable chassis.

[gshaw]

You would be best of getting a cheap tamiya chassis of eBay and assume the shell. You can get a perfectly good tamiya rolling chassis at times for a reasonable rate £30(ish) although it might seem alot you will then have a car that you can upgrade and will be enjoyable to use. Pm me if you need help.

If your bodyshell is good on the peugeout you will be able to sell that on eBay as they are a wanted shell. His will help you towards getting a rally metro sorted.

PM'd

£30 ish sounds OK if it'll be quicker and better than the current chassis I've got. The Pug shell seems to sit pretty central on the QD chassis so not sure if it will only fit other QD's?

The shell is in pretty good shape, no cracks etc and all the stickers seem to be fine as well

[tonysmini]

The pug shell is identical to the ta03fs(TA03 Front motor Short wheelbase) 206 that I have.

How much do you want for it, or are you selling the whole thing?

Tony

[gshaw]

The pug shell is identical to the ta03fs(TA03 Front motor Short wheelbase) 206 that I have.

How much do you want for it, or are you selling the whole thing?

Tony

PM'd

[gshaw]

Got the shell today

A few quick questions to confirm what I've been Googling...

- what's the best tool and method to cut the shell with? Found a video showing a sharp knife and scoring along the lines repeatedly?

- paint-wise, is Tamiya paint the best bet? I want to do the car pretty much all in white like this...

- do I paint the inside of the shell or the outside? It's a Lexan shell if that makes any difference?

Thanks

[Swarm]

Hi .

You can use a sharp hobby knife and score along the lines ,I prefer to use a sharp heavy duty pair of scissors .

Tamiya PS paint is for lexan shells there is a difference .

Wash the shell once you have cut it out in soapy water and let it dry this removes any grease your fingers may have left on the shell

You paint lexan shells from the inside making sure you mask off the windows and other parts you dont want to paint.

Apply the paint lightly as you do not want it to run or bleed apply more paint if needed to get your desired finish.

When you have finished painting remove the plastic from the outside of the shell make sure you do this before applying decals some people forget to remove the plastic and decal over it ,It can be easily overlooked.

Stuart.

[gshaw]

When you have finished painting remove the plastic from the outside of the shell make sure you do this before applying decals some people forget to remove the plastic and decal over it ,It can be easily overlooked.

Stuart.

There's plastic on the shell?!

Just as well you told me that as I never realised! Thanks for the info, much appreciated

[tonysmini]

I paid about £4 for a pair of Ansmann curved scissors for cutting shells, an absolute god send,

[gshaw]

I paid about £4 for a pair of Ansmann curved scissors for cutting shells, an absolute god send,

Would you say those are better than the scoring \ knife method? The site I was on was saying the arches come out a bit rough with scissors (although scissors sounds an easier way to do the curved surfaces than trying to get the knife in a smooth curve)