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anthonyfa18

Tamiya 540 At 24000 Rpm

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hey guys i am looking to make my oem 540 silver can go fast for the spec class i am racing in and look what i found on youtube

how can this be done ??????????? and i dont thing a water dip can do this

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hey guys i am looking to make my oem 540 silver can go fast for the spec class i am racing in and look what i found on youtube

how can this be done ??????????? and i dont thing a water dip can do this

I heard that silver cans can have a difference in rpm up to 10% - I'm not sure if this number is correct, but is does mean that there's quite a lot of difference to be made from in essence quite a cheap part.

Good lubrication will of course speed up the motor further, and there are also 'silver' cans that have bearings, although I don't know if these are allowed.

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It's true that there's a lot of spread in the silvercans - I have experienced something that could easily be 10% difference. A good 540 Silvercan will outperform a poor 540 Sport Tuned, I would guess. Also pay attention to the various 540 silvercan versions: The one we want to use is the RS-540SH-7520 (edited from 540RH)

Some of you are probably tired of hearing me saying it, but I find that running a stock 540 silvercan on 3S LiPo (11.1Volts) is great and cheap fun. The TEU-101 seems to survive the 11 volts quite well (Just be careful with the non-BEC output).

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It's true that there's a lot of spread in the silvercans - I have experienced something that could easily be 10% difference. A good 540 Silvercan will outperform a poor 540 Sport Tuned, I would guess. Also pay attention to the various 540 silvercan versions: The one we want to use is the RS-540RH-7520

Some of you are probably tired of hearing me saying it, but I find that running a stock 540 silvercan on 3S LiPo (11.1Volts) is great and cheap fun. The TEU-101 seems to survive the 11 volts quite well (Just be careful with the non-BEC output).

where can i find this motor??? what is tha tamiya part number ?????

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all i find is rs540sh ????

Sry, my bad. It is the SH you want. I edited above post to avoid further confusion. Check the link (version) and you see the difference in power and supply voltage.

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The 7520 RS540 motor is definitely NOT the one Tamiya supply with their kits. It is a lot faster.

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the code at the end of the mabuchi motor (e.g. 7520) breaks down like this: the first number is the diameter of the wire and the second is the number of turns. So the 7520 is a 20T motor. the standard mabuchi is 6527 or 27T.

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You guys are funny. Almost anybody in racing knows that a silver cans and other sealed motors can be tampered with to advance the comm timing. It's called twisting the comm. Essentially you reach in through the hole of the can with some pliers and grab the comm. This will produce a lot of rpm and severely shorten the life of the motor and reduce efficiency (no big deal). This is cheating in silver can racing...

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if you google silvercan tuning tricks or similar you'll find lots of information, there doesnt seem to be hard and fast rules but finding a good silvercan is pretty hit and miss it seems. theres some old ones about with 4 slots in them as opposed to the newer 2 slot version that seem to be a bit quicker to start with, but are going for a pretty penny on ebay. then you can try breaking them in well so that the brushes sit flush with the comm, keeping them spotless and lubed well.

even then it does seem to come down to the freaks of manufacture that are perfectly balanced and can hit these rpms. buy 100 and a dyno and find your fastest one, sell the rest?

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the code at the end of the mabuchi motor (e.g. 7520) breaks down like this: the first number is the diameter of the wire and the second is the number of turns. So the 7520 is a 20T motor. the standard mabuchi is 6527 or 27T.

is this it

[No live ebay links]

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You guys are funny. Almost anybody in racing knows that a silver cans and other sealed motors can be tampered with to advance the comm timing. It's called twisting the comm. Essentially you reach in through the hole of the can with some pliers and grab the comm. This will produce a lot of rpm and severely shorten the life of the motor and reduce efficiency (no big deal). This is cheating in silver can racing...

This is one of the problems with silvercans... people are willing to cheat to gain an advantage. In theory the newer motors have a locked comm but some people will try anything. All the break-in "tricks" don't make much difference at the end of the day - basically the motors have an unusual brush profile, and need a LOT of running in before they make full power, the tricks just speed that process up. It's also true that the machine winding can be a bit inconsistent so some motors will just be slower.

Another issue is that there are SO MANY winds in a plain silver can. I went to a race meeting at a local club a few years ago, and my 19T brushed car got mixed in with the Tamiya silvercan class due to low turnout. The oddest thing was that one of the silvercan cars could keep up with me through the infield, and only lost a little bit at the end of the straight... very fishy and he got a bit of an ear bashing from race control until he admitted he had pulled the motor out of something else!

That's why we are using "labelled" silver cans in the local CWIC series... less chance of cheating.

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Take a look at the no load column, 24k RPM really is not that impressive: http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-bin/cat...T_ID=rs_540rhsh

We also don't know which silver can he has hooked up. IIRC there is/was a 16T version of the thing that from the outside looks like the 27T.

As 94eg! pointed out you are essentially asking how to cheat. What you'll find is the veteran racers at the track are able to spot a modded motor in a pack of "stock" silver cans.

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Very interesting post. What does Tamiya stick in the Re-re boxes today? The 20T or the 27T and with that questions what did they stick in the boxes back in the 80's and 90's? My re-re hornet is pretty fast for stock out of the box, does wheelies very easily using reverse, but almost does it just nailing it on carpet. I thought it was the ESC being more responsive and better than the stock MSC's of the 80's I was used to?

Is there an easy way to tell what motor you have by looking at it or opening it up?

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Most oem silvercan motors are 27T. From my experience the manufacturer will mention somewhere in the literature that the motor is less turns. My MRC Q-Tee coupe came with a nondescript 20T silvercan. On the box they say it is a 20T motor. As far as I know all Tamiya silvercan 540 motors are 27T. The Traxxas Stinger appears to be a mabuchi and it is a 20T motor.

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Tamiya uses two different stock silver can motors. There is the Johnson 540J and the Mabuchi RS540SH. As far as I know, the Mabuchi is only included in Tamiya chassis kits, and is not sold separately (I got one with my Lunchbox). Both are similar in performance, yet different in build. I believe most people find the Mabuchi to be the better performer of the two. In racing I'm sure there is different ways to prep either motor...

Tamiya 53689 Johnson motor:

53689.jpg

Johnson_Motor.jpg

Mabuchi RS540SH motor:

10009018.jpg

Mabuchi_Motor.jpg

The odd thing is that the Sport Tuned motor is only labeled as the RS540. I wonder if it's the same thing as the RS540SH, only painted black???

53068htm.jpg

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nice work thanks and also what about old Johnson 540 4 vent ???? is it faster then mabuchi RS540SH???

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Sport tuned is just a standard 27 turn 540 with advanced timing. There is apparently a 23 turn version available as well, but I don't think I've seen one.

Tamiya also include a shabby looking silver 540 motor in some of their kits that looks like this:

TAM7435035.jpg

- James

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