Tamiya 540 At 24000 Rpm

[WillyChang 1814]

...And you know what? It was nearly as fast on the straight with a TWENTY YEAR OLD silver can as the other new DT02s!

you dirty cheater

You've cotton'd onto the Racer's Secret... that the silvercans from 1990s kits (Johnsons) are faster than current crop.

Look for the ones with the big dotmatrix printing...

[WillyChang 1814]

the only mods we can do is run a 21t pinon and 2 ball bearing in the rear gear box. all cars must run sliver can 540 and tamiya esc. i can not do any

upgrade the chassis.

i meant upgrade to a TT01

TL01 has about 5pr more bearings/bushings and 3 more gear2gear interfaces in the transmission, all of which add up to extra friction over a TT01.

Are your gears greased? Wash out all the grease and lube with a tiny drop of silicone oil. Or run them dry, they'll survive 540.

Don't overgrease bushings either, especially the bronze pair on spurgear (or are these changed to bearings?).

Even then the TT01 will have lower CoG and be lighter overall.

[Singapore_959 18]

you dirty cheater

You've cotton'd onto the Racer's Secret... that the silvercans from 1990s kits (Johnsons) are faster than current crop.

Look for the ones with the big dotmatrix printing...

LOL - Willy gives the game away

Actually no, I was actually using the REAL old 540 with the black plastic cap end from the '80s. These definitely have no advantage.

Just go out and have fun, it comes down to consistent driving 90% of the time.

Willy - you ever up in the Gold Coast? I'll be there at Christmas with my folks as usu. Would be cool to meet sometime.

[WillyChang 1814]

Sure it wasn't a Kyosho Stinger 20T minus the label? they sure look like black plastic endbell RS540s...

no travel plans for xmas, only just landed back here anyways... nearly got caught up in the A380 kerfuffle but 'missed it by that much'

Hop on a domestic down this way and we'll give you a tour of Melbourne's RC offerings!

[anthonyfa18 0]

i meant upgrade to a TT01

TL01 has about 5pr more bearings/bushings and 3 more gear2gear interfaces in the transmission, all of which add up to extra friction over a TT01.

Are your gears greased? Wash out all the grease and lube with a tiny drop of silicone oil. Or run them dry, they'll survive 540.

Don't overgrease bushings either, especially the bronze pair on spurgear (or are these changed to bearings?).

Even then the TT01 will have lower CoG and be lighter overall.

the 2 ball bearings on the spurgear, i am taking a part my tl01la and removing all the grease and putting 3in1 oil, that what a guy told me at the track today and i will take his advice because he has wont 3 championship and beat tt01 with his tlo1. he also told me to do this before i play in the motor. he also said the best 540 is Johnson 540 and the tlo1 is a better handling car, he owned tto1 and tto1e and he put them bought for sale and went back to his tl01.

[WillyChang 1814]

the LA might be ok... mount all your electronics as low as you can, not on top of the chassis

must you use the stock shocks or can you have oil shocks? here's no way of making the rubber-tube things work properly, better to just remove them

run proper racing tyres and that's half the challenge covered

[anthonyfa18 0]

the LA might be ok... mount all your electronics as low as you can, not on top of the chassis

must you use the stock shocks or can you have oil shocks? here's no way of making the rubber-tube things work properly, better to just remove them

run proper racing tyres and that's half the challenge covered

we can only use tamiya racing slick tire (p/n 50454) but we can use tire traction, and we are not able to run oil shock.

also so i posted my topic on rctech.net no help what so ever, so thanks for all the help here and plz keeep helping me out.

[TA-Mark 195]

we can only use tamiya racing slick tire (p/n 50454) but we can use tire traction, and we are not able to run oil shock.

also so i posted my topic on rctech.net no help what so ever, so thanks for all the help here and plz keeep helping me out.

That's not real fair then. The TT01E has oil dampers... so why can't you fit TT01E dampers to your TL01?

If they're that strict on what you can modify from kit stock you should put the TL01 on the shelf as a body stand (or demote it to carpark basher), then as WillyChang suggested, buy a better chassis that atleast comes with oil dampers, full bearings and an efficient driveline.

[WillyChang 1814]

no TT01E doesn't get oil shocks, its the same TT01 with top deck, updated knuckles and steering linkage - still same spring shocks

only the TT01D & D TypeE have CVA oilshocks, apart from the typeRs

it takes a heap of work to keep a racecar running sweet on bushings

if they're serious about keeping racers keen, for a entrylevel class they should allow full bearings as a minimum

RS540s & Sporttuned are too variable in output so if organisers should consider allowing eg 13T 3000kV Hobbywing brushless

so everybody's motor & ESC are the same

[TA-Mark 195]

no TT01E doesn't get oil shocks, its the same TT01 with top deck, updated knuckles and steering linkage - still same spring shocks

only the TT01D & D TypeE have CVA oilshocks, apart from the typeRs

it takes a heap of work to keep a racecar running sweet on bushings

Eeewww!! Another reason I guess why I've never bought a TL01 or TT01 and would never consider them, even if they might have a nice body on top of it.

I went and looked at heaps of TT01E photos and they all looked like they had oil dampers. After you mentioned it, I went and looked in a manual and they do have spring pogo sticks.

[anthonyfa18 0]

it takes a heap of work to keep a racecar running sweet on bushings

if they're serious about keeping racers keen, for a entrylevel class they should allow full bearings as a minimum

RS540s & Sporttuned are too variable in output so if organisers should consider allowing eg 13T 3000kV Hobbywing brushless

so everybody's motor & ESC are the same

any tips to keep the bushing sweet???

also we can only run tamiya esc, i am using Tamiya ESC TEU-104BK Item #45041.

and we can run up to 4000mha lipo batteys

[94eg! 834]

any tips to keep the bushing sweet???

also we can only run tamiya esc, i am using Tamiya ESC TEU-104BK Item #45041.

and we can run up to 4000mha lipo batteys

Polish their thrust faces with some sand paper to glass smooth finish. Then hone them with the proper sized rod (in a dremel chuck) and a dab of tooth paste. You can also try under-cutting them (I think that's what it's called) so the bearing surface on the rod is narrower.

[anthonyfa18 0]

Polish their thrust faces with some sand paper to glass smooth finish. Then hone them with the proper sized rod (in a dremel chuck) and a dab of tooth paste. You can also try under-cutting them (I think that's what it's called) so the bearing surface on the rod is narrower.

what sand paper do i use ??? 800??? 600??? 400???

[94eg! 834]

what sand paper do i use ??? 800??? 600??? 400???

All those and more. I have a polishing kit (for model paints), that I've used. It starts at 1200 grit and works up to 24000 in about 6 steps. I've used it to polish bushing faces and it works surprisingly well. They were glass smooth and I could see my reflection in them.

Keep in mind that none of those tricks I posted will work on a Silvercan since the motor must dissasembled. I suppose you could put some toothpaste in and hone it by back driving the motor with a dremel, but I don't think you would want toothpaste to on the brushes...

[anthonyfa18 0]

i cant open my motor. but what i did do is polish all my metal part just like u said and wow its like i have ball bearings lol. i used a drill, Scotbright , soft cloth and some automotive compound. i also stared to reassemble my car with using no grease but using 3in1 oil.

[Singapore_959 18]

i cant open my motor. but what i did do is polish all my metal part just like u said and wow its like i have ball bearings lol. i used a drill, Scotbright , soft cloth and some automotive compound. i also stared to reassemble my car with using no grease but using 3in1 oil.

I'm not sure what you managed to polish since it can't (ie shouldn't) be disassembled)?

As suggested earlier a tiny drop or two of bushing oil on both top and bottom bushes is a basic first step.

Then comm drops are a second. To do this requires:

bright lamp

thin screw driver, allen key, or needle

com drops

- from the holes in the end of the can and/or the sides use the thin driver to lift up each brush arm

- this leaves a space between the brush and the com

- take your com drop bottle with its long thin need nose and carefully apply a drop of fluid. Repeat for both bushes.

Take care not too damage/bend and mis align the bushes/bush carrying arms.

Run in the motor using the technique in my prior post.

HTH

Ofcourse an easier way of selecting the fastest silver can in a group (race hand out or your own supply) is to connect directly to a battery and select the one with the best/highest pitch noise. Indicating higher rpm.

Race organisers take an impatient view of this usually however, as its considered a waste of time - silver can classes are more about learning to drive and set up the car to make the difference on track.

Enjoy your time on track. And buy the same type of car as the majority are using!

[anthonyfa18 0]

i polish all the metal shaft and diff on the car, every where i have a bushing i polish the metel so it runs like a ball barings. i cant open my motor because they check if it has ben open, must be sealed

[anthonyfa18 0]

hey guys what is the differences Tamiya 540 Motor 58148 and 540-J Motor 53689 ???

here is the photo if Tamiya 540 Motor 58148

is the Tamiya 540 Motor 58148 also a Johnson Motor??? is it faster ???

[mike_o 35]

also we can only run tamiya esc, i am using Tamiya ESC TEU-104BK Item #45041.

and we can run up to 4000mha lipo batteys

I'd probably find a 25C or 30C 1800-2200mAh LiPo to save weight and improve acceleration and handling. I dont think you'll run out of juice with a silvercan.

Also, a TEU-302BK is rated for twice the current of a 104 and should have half the resistance/loss of that. So, using a 302 insted of the 104 may provide a little (perhaps very little) extra power. Use good connectors and short power wires to further minimize losses. I think this a safer way to go far a little extra power.

And do - if possible - a selection of 540s as suggested.

Or do as singapore 959 and myself: Forget about the details and just have fun :-)

[Guest Greg67]

You can buy 'tuned' silver cans from a member on rctech.

But why? stock silver can racing should be enjoyed without thinking about motor tuning beyond the normal.

That's why most Tamiya organised races globally provide hand out motors which are returned at the end of the day, and at the next race repeated so you always get a different one, so all racers have a mover even chance.

Typical things done at all races I attend are 3-5min water dipping (they don't short, just connect and put the whole thing in a sturdy glass).

Oiling the bushings,

com drops under the brushes, onto the comm

light run in for few mins after that.

If you want to go overboard you can do this again halfway thru the day.

People who force the can to advance timing should be named and shamed and sent to the back of the grid and made to pay for a new motor.

Its obvious on the straight who has most power and cheating should be easy to spot. If you feel you are still much slower (same chassis) then check your bearings, hubs, etc and diffs. After that it comes down to your finger finesse at the TX!

I like to point out that absolutely the best days I ever have racing are when I don't give two hoots about the motor and have a problem with the car that means its not competitive, so I just have an tremendously fun time hammering it as best as possible without having any expectation at all of winning. I used to have this all the time with my 'Splitty M01 and most recently I put my ancient silver can Wild One in the Tamiya Cup 2wd catagory and with 20+ year old hard as concrete tires I slid and spun my way around every heat and race with intense concentration and a huge grin (or tongue between my teeth, lol) on my face trying to keep it in a straight line. And you know what? It was nearly as fast on the straight with a TWENTY YEAR OLD silver can as the other new DT02s! The rest of the track was another matter but it was huge fun.

Who needs the fastest silver can!

FTW!

[94eg! 834]

I'd probably find a 25C or 30C 1800-2200mAh LiPo to save weight and improve acceleration and handling. I dont think you'll run out of juice with a silvercan.

Also, a TEU-302BK is rated for twice the current of a 104 and should have half the resistance/loss of that. So, using a 302 insted of the 104 may provide a little (perhaps very little) extra power. Use good connectors and short power wires to further minimize losses. I think this a safer way to go far a little extra power.

And do - if possible - a selection of 540s as suggested.

Or do as singapore 959 and myself: Forget about the details and just have fun :-)

The weight savings is a bonus with a low mah lipo, but it does come at a price. As a pack is discharged, it's voltage steadily drops. With a low capacity pack, your voltage will drop much quicker during the run compared to others (twice as fast as a pack with double the capacity). That means your car will start off very fast, but fade much sooner than expected. When it comes to motors and batteries, you might find it's best to simply follow what everyone else is doing. Of course it may still be worth a shot.

Another bad point about a low mah lipo is that it takes much longer to recharge after a run since it must be set on to a lower charge amperage. A 5000mah pack will be full again after just a couple minutes, while an 1800mah pack may take well over half an hour.

[WillyChang 1814]

moreover i don't think there's any "crawler" size packs on the ROAR-legal list

There isn't that huge a benefit from running a smaller battery, there's better ways of saving weight...

You could search for the TL01 Lightweight chassis set, hollow carbon gear shafts & make a hollow main shaft. Titanium screw set.

But all this marginal weightloss will be negated the first time your car needs to be marshalled,

so the best route onto the podium is always more practice & neater lines, keeping speeds up in corners.

[anthonyfa18 0]

i am sorry i forget to tell you that i have wight limit of 1440gr with my radio,body and battery in my car. also i will look in too TEU-302BK

and rember i cant run any hop-ups

[anthonyfa18 0]

hey guys what is the differences Tamiya 540 Motor 58148 and 540-J Motor 53689 ???

here is the photo if Tamiya 540 Motor 58148

is the Tamiya 540 Motor 58148 also a Johnson Motor??? is it faster ???

any info on this this motor ?????

[WillyChang 1814]

58148 is a replacement sparepart for kit motor, what you get depends what the factory got supplied that week.

Regardless its near impossible to find 58148 in retail packaging outside of Japan as few LHS would buy them like that,

when you can just buy whole trays of unlabelled motors direct from a local wholesaler.

They'd date back to mid 1990s.