Tamiya 540 At 24000 Rpm

[anthonyfa18 0]

58148 is a replacement sparepart for kit motor, what you get depends what the factory got supplied that week.

Regardless its near impossible to find 58148 in retail packaging outside of Japan as few LHS would buy them like that,

when you can just buy whole trays of unlabelled motors direct from a local wholesaler.

They'd date back to mid 1990s.

ok but in performane, is 58148 better then 53689 540-J Motor ???

[anthonyfa18 0]

bump, is 58148 better then 53689 540-J Motor ???

[TenzoR 62]

bump, is 58148 better then 53689 540-J Motor ???

buy one and find out

honestly, I think for spec racing, your driving will probably count a lot more than anything else.

[anthonyfa18 0]

buy one and find out

honestly, I think for spec racing, your driving will probably count a lot more than anything else.

mabe that what i will do lol,

plz anyone some more info on tamiya 58148 motor ?????

[TenzoR 62]

mabe that what i will do lol,

plz anyone some more info on tamiya 58148 motor ?????

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/...ips-tricks.html

Go through this thread, lots of info, if you really want to learn all about the Silver Can

[Singapore_959 18]

Buy the TT-01 chassis, do whats been mentioned a few times already in this thread, and go out and practice more.

Practice, learning lines, subtlety of proper wheel glueing, shock setting, careful build and polishing/oiling, will improve your laptimes far more than a "faster silver can".

And for what I hope will really get you thinking more about the above than a faster motor -

is the fact that after your first run with your new 'hot' motor, it will be dirty and require maintenance to remain 'faster'.

The likelyhood is after 15 mins running the motor will be as fast as your original motor.....

Practice and enjoy the car. Less worrying about the motor!

AH yes, for my final contribution (which I have posted somewhere here previously some years ago) :

A former Tamiya Euro champion is a good friend of mine. Several years ago he turned up to a race day with a RM2 Datsun that he bought of ebay. During practice we opened the box, dusted it off, checked the bearings, put some additive on the tire and put in one of the battery packs from my mod'ed Datsun. We put in a modern receiver, but left the rest of the car as it was. 1970s mechanical speedo, servos and motor. Robi then put the car on the carpet. During the next 5mins he practiced with other modern F1 Tamiya cars. HE COULD LAP SOME OF THEM. Yes it was AWESOME.

And a VERY strong reminder that it is hugely the driving in rc racing that makes the difference.

Practice and ENJOY!

[anthonyfa18 0]

Buy the TT-01 chassis, do whats been mentioned a few times already in this thread, and go out and practice more.

Practice, learning lines, subtlety of proper wheel glueing, shock setting, careful build and polishing/oiling, will improve your laptimes far more than a "faster silver can".

And for what I hope will really get you thinking more about the above than a faster motor -

is the fact that after your first run with your new 'hot' motor, it will be dirty and require maintenance to remain 'faster'.

The likelyhood is after 15 mins running the motor will be as fast as your original motor.....

Practice and enjoy the car. Less worrying about the motor!

AH yes, for my final contribution (which I have posted somewhere here previously some years ago) :

A former Tamiya Euro champion is a good friend of mine. Several years ago he turned up to a race day with a RM2 Datsun that he bought of ebay. During practice we opened the box, dusted it off, checked the bearings, put some additive on the tire and put in one of the battery packs from my mod'ed Datsun. We put in a modern receiver, but left the rest of the car as it was. 1970s mechanical speedo, servos and motor. Robi then put the car on the carpet. During the next 5mins he practiced with other modern F1 Tamiya cars. HE COULD LAP SOME OF THEM. Yes it was AWESOME.

And a VERY strong reminder that it is hugely the driving in rc racing that makes the difference.

Practice and ENJOY!

I AM NOT BUYING A TT01 EVER

[Singapore_959 18]

LOL. It's good have firm feelings

[WillyChang 1814]

interestingly, if you revisit your pics of both the bagged AND the boxed Tamiya motors, they're both showing "62200"

not sure if current stock of boxed 540J still do though

re:-

You've cotton'd onto the Racer's Secret... that the silvercans from 1990s kits (Johnsons) are faster than current crop.

Look for the ones with the big dotmatrix printing...

just took a peek into the 540 stash, we favoured the "62200" - they are Johnsons

we also raced 4-vent Johnsons

the "62490" didn't feel as good, and there was a fatter dotmatrix font version (1st on left below) too whose ink has wiped off

didn't race the Mabuchis much (round sticker Japanese vs current kit dullcan laser-inscribed CHINA)

note when we raced we ran in both classes that mandated fixed gearing & open.

When gearing is 'open' then finding the motors with most torque allowed gearing up more

(ie the 4-vents and 62200s). Also depends on track size & layout as to which suits better.

End of the day, if you're serious about competing just bung them into your car and find which does fastest laptime.

And be vigilent on maintenance - we flushed them out with motorspray & relubed the bushings after every run.

[anthonyfa18 0]

interestingly, if you revisit your pics of both the bagged AND the boxed Tamiya motors, they're both showing "62200"

not sure if current stock of boxed 540J still do though

re:-

just took a peek into the 540 stash, we favoured the "62200" - they are Johnsons

we also raced 4-vent Johnsons

the "62490" didn't feel as good, and there was a fatter dotmatrix font version (1st on left below) too whose ink has wiped off

didn't race the Mabuchis much (round sticker Japanese vs current kit dullcan laser-inscribed CHINA

note when we raced we ran in both classes that mandated fixed gearing & open.

When gearing is 'open' then finding the motors with most torque allowed gearing up more

(ie the 4-vents and 62200s). Also depends on track size & layout as to which suits better.

End of the day, if you're serious about competing just bung them into your car and find which does fastest laptime.

And be vigilent on maintenance - we flushed them out with motorspray & relubed the bushings after every run.

your saying i need to find a old 62200 Johnsons 4 vent ???

[anthonyfa18 0]

where can i find an Johnsons 4 vent???

[anthonyfa18 0]

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/...ips-tricks.html

Go through this thread, lots of info, if you really want to learn all about the Silver Can

AFTER reading all this the best thing is to order a red dot racing motor, did any of u ever use one ???

[anthonyfa18 0]

bump and info in red dot racing motors ?????

[xismxist 1]

bump and info in red dot racing motors ?????

ok i bump it! its not as easy to understand like most ppl think... Tamiya has been used ALOT of different 540 motors over the years and still does. In general, the shiny cans with round label doesnt perform as good as the silver can versions. What i found interesting is that the motors who came with my super clod buster actually performs even better than the 540-J motor, because you can tell by looking at the amps draws at max eff that these mabuchi motors is slightly hotter than the 540-J.

i emailed mabuchi and asked about the nr written on the clod motors and from that they could track it down as 6527 and send me some info, and thats from a performance chart dated 1986:

13,746 rpm at best efficiency

286 g-cm torque at 13,746 rpm (at 7,2v)

no load rpm: 15,800 rpm (at 7,2v)

stall current draw 55 amps (at 7,2v)

current 8.19 amps at max eff (at 7,2v)

current 1.2 amps at no load (at 7,2v)

Output power 40.38 watts (at 7,2v)

however, the 6527 motors mabuchi has today has this performance:

14,710 rpm at best efficiency

268 g-cm torque at 14,710 rpm (at 7,2v)

no load rpm: 17,550 rpm (at 7,2v)

stall current draw 42.8 amps (at 7,2v)

current 8.27 amps at max eff (at 7,2v)

current 1.6 amps at no load (at 7,2v)

Output power 40.4 watts (at 7,2v)

so it seems, tamiya still using motors from 80's in their cars today... wondering how many millions of motors they bought in from mabuchi

and btw, their 540-J isnt the hottest motor from johnson they have been using either... theres another one who usually cames with spade connectors who performs slightly better, and thats the 7435079 motor.

as far as i know, here's that motor listed in johnson product catalogue: http://www.je-motion.com/mediando/index.ph...;IdProduct=1251

[94eg! 834]

^Dayum! That's some great info.

[markbt73 5315]

Buy the TT-01 chassis, do whats been mentioned a few times already in this thread, and go out and practice more.

Practice, learning lines, subtlety of proper wheel glueing, shock setting, careful build and polishing/oiling, will improve your laptimes far more than a "faster silver can".

And for what I hope will really get you thinking more about the above than a faster motor -

is the fact that after your first run with your new 'hot' motor, it will be dirty and require maintenance to remain 'faster'.

The likelyhood is after 15 mins running the motor will be as fast as your original motor.....

Practice and enjoy the car. Less worrying about the motor!

AH yes, for my final contribution (which I have posted somewhere here previously some years ago) :

A former Tamiya Euro champion is a good friend of mine. Several years ago he turned up to a race day with a RM2 Datsun that he bought of ebay. During practice we opened the box, dusted it off, checked the bearings, put some additive on the tire and put in one of the battery packs from my mod'ed Datsun. We put in a modern receiver, but left the rest of the car as it was. 1970s mechanical speedo, servos and motor. Robi then put the car on the carpet. During the next 5mins he practiced with other modern F1 Tamiya cars. HE COULD LAP SOME OF THEM. Yes it was AWESOME.

And a VERY strong reminder that it is hugely the driving in rc racing that makes the difference.

Practice and ENJOY!

I missed this thread the first time around... I have to say that I LOVE this story! Best advice ever: if you want to go fast, get good.

[94eg! 834]

^This is true. The hotter I build my car, the worse I drive. I'm a better mechanic than driver for sure.

[xismxist 1]

^Dayum! That's some great info.

Sure it is the clod motors having 50% more torque than the ones who comes with lunchbox for example... thats a huge difference

[Butler 338]

I AM NOT BUYING A TT01 EVER

LOL Good man. I hate them too. I would rather start with a TL01.

http://www.rccartips.com/rc-car-project-tamiya-tl-01.htm

[ideal2k 3]

LOL Good man. I hate them too.

+1, death to all TT01's! Round them up and throw them all on a big bonfire!

[Sayer 742]

+1, death to all TT01's! Round them up and throw them all on a big bonfire!

Every sale of a TT01 makes me wonder if TA01/TA02's are really so expensive to make that they don't produce those instead. Did they break the molds?

[TA-Mark 195]

Every sale of a TT01 makes me wonder if TA01/TA02's are really so expensive to make that they don't produce those instead. Did they break the molds?

TA02T re-release was out a few months ago (Ford F-150 truck). It's just a TA02 with mix of TA01 and TA02 suspension with CC01 wheels. My TA02RS with cff chassis plates and damper mounts is one of my favourite onroad runners.

[Sayer 742]

TA02T re-release was out a few months ago (Ford F-150 truck). It's just a TA02 with mix of TA01 and TA02 suspension with CC01 wheels. My TA02RS with cff chassis plates and damper mounts is one of my favourite onroad runners.

I've got that (TA02 with TA01 arms) stuffed under a SX2 body meant for a TT01. Why don't they just make that their base model rather than the inferior TT01?

[Zac_F83 117]

what I have found at least in slot car racing (it's basically the same as R/C motors) IS the magnet strength is what limits RPM's

what you could do to get a bit more out of it is-

1. break it in @ 3-4VDC in distilled water for 20-30 minutes

2. thoroughly clean the motor with electronic cleaner

3. lube with high grade oil (I use Royal Purple SynchroMax transmission lube as it's designed to creep in small spaces)

4. find someone with a magnet zapper and have the mags given a small bump in power

5. use a commutator lube (I use Slick7 slot car brand)

6. high current connectors from the batt. to/from the ESC and then to the motor

7. a high current battery- 4000+mAh NiMH battery

I just bought my 2nd TT01 and must say it's better than the comparable Kyosho chassis..

[xismxist 1]

Correct me if im wrong but arent the "62200" the 540-J motor? however it seems to be another one looking exactly the same but it comes with red and black cables instead, google: tamiya 7435043