Avante Coming Soon

[M pro]

Guys I have just been looking over the shocks on the new and original avante's

On my orignal one it's very soft and dosent take alot to push the front down but on the 2011 its much stiffer to push down

Can someone eles test this with the two?

[TamiyaDan]

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[NitroMusky]

I dont know how much difference it would make either way if you painted first or CA first. The guy who told me about it said he painted the edges then CA glued

CA being after the paint leads me to believe the CA is being used as a sort of makeshift sealer. We cover the paint job on all our handmade fishing lures with a couple layers of clear spray epoxy (envirotex)...sharp teeth make for ruined paint

[TamiyaDan]

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[NitroMusky]

well if you painted the carbon first it would not allow the CA glue to penetrate the sides very well.

If the only purpose is to protect the paint I can't see why you need to. Ive not heard of a 1:1 that has it's clearcoat under the color either.

[M pro]

Just took my one out for a blast and it's very nice!

Needs a little more power out of the engin but a very nice car to drive

Only had to wait over 20 years to dive one... Such a nice car!

[djmcnz]

If the only purpose is to protect the paint I can't see why you need to. Ive not heard of a 1:1 that has it's clearcoat under the color either.

Well yes, but you wouldn't use adhesive if the only purpose was to protect the paint. If you're using them for the traditional reasons I think you'd glue first then paint.

But then again how many delaminated chassis plates have you seen? Like ever? The CA trick isn't necessary.

[WillyChang]

the glue stops the CF splintering... and anyone's who's sufferred CF splinters before would know how razorsharp they are

[VagabondStarJXF]

the glue stops the CF splintering...

True. But would you glue before or after painting?

[Corpse Thrower]

I'll have to get a couple of these I think.....paint the can gold and whack it on!

[NitroMusky]

Surely the CA is applied first, after all is it not the sealing of the fibre which is the whole point to the glue??? Those of you that are keen on the painting idea would then just paint the edges afterwards whatever colour suits! It isn't something i will be following up personally but if i was inclined, that's the order i'd do it.

Personally, as long as the paint would go on the CF ok in the CFs 'raw' state ok (adhere, not 'soak' in etc) I would paint first, so as to protect both the CF from splintering as well as protect the paint from chipping BUT it wouldn't be CA glue, as it can yellow. Envirotex for me, thank you

[Sayroll]

Good news for USA customers the titanium screw set for the avante is in.

It's 84$

Well, it's still pretty expensive; I got mine from Banzai Hobby for 4730 yen shipped to France, approximately USD56. They don't have it anymore at the moment but might restock it so keep an eye out.

Anyway, I finished my built this week end, I'm still waiting for a steering servo before it's good to go. The Avante shell was done box art as well as the driver, something I don't usually do if you've seen my showroom, but I couldn't think of a better paintscheme...until I was done with it. So I might get another body set someday.

I enjoyed every moment of the built except for one thing, and it's the purpose of my post, to save others some trouble.

If you plan on building yours with the titanium screw set, pay very close attention to step 25 in the manual. When I was done with the drivetrain and putting on the wheels, I noticed the front ones wouldn't turn.

So here is the thing: in the manual, the cross member (PA5) is attached with two 3X18 tapping screws. The equivalent in the titanium screw set is 3X20 screws. Well, the problem is that those 2mm extras will push the plastic inside the gear box and press on the 1680 bearings, binding the differential and preventing it from turning. You have two options to fix the problem: first is to use the kit 3X18 tapping screws, or find 3X18 screws looking like the titanium ones. Or, and this is how I did it, is add two 2mm spacers on each side in addition to the BS6 parts (the 1,5mm spacers).

Hope this will save you guys some trouble with dismantling the front of the car, or even the risk of seriously damaging the car if trying to run it like this.

[M pro]

I'll have to get a couple of these I think.....paint the can gold and whack it on!

where are you getting those?

Never mind! got one

[ozace]

I just started my build, what a joy to work on so far. I do wish Tamiya had bought themselves into the 21st century and used hex head hardware as standard.

[Sayroll]

Are you sure you put the correct screws in the correct places as you were going through the build? I do not mean to patronise you but i'm pretty sure Tamiya wouldn't make such a silly mistake. Of course i could be wrong but surely when releasing a Hop-Up Ti screw set they merely replace the existing screws with identical Titanium ones so why would they replace two of the screws with ones of a different length?

I'm ashamed, you are so right! I just went through the manual again and found stuck between the first pages a little note that came in the titanium screw bag and that I had totally forgotten: it says that 3X18 tapping screws have to be replaced by 3X16 titanium screws. So I checked my built and realized that on another part of the car, I used two 3X20 titanium screws instead of 3X16 (they work fine where I put them).

Sorry for the "silly mistake", I will switch these screws where they belong.

[M pro]

Just finishing the driver on my shelf one soo I'll have pics soon

Let's see some pics of where you guys are with your build

[M pro]

Will the drivers all done for the shelf car.

I had to paint the underside also as its in a clear car and not seeing any white though the shell is the way to go

Driver in place

All done

anyone else want to post pics of theres?

[TamiyaDan]

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[RA1028]

Want to get a set of this ball diffs and torque splitter set for my 2011 Avante but couldn't make myself to pay 60 pounds total shipped to Hong Kong. Luckily, found this set on eBay last week for US$30. Paid a little over US$40 in total shipped to Hong Kong. Very happy to received in the mail yesterday. Now I have no excuse to keep my Avante 2011 nib.

[Taman]

Whats the benefit of the Ball Diff & Torque splitter set?

Also what size tyres fit the bonus rims?

thanks

[Corpse Thrower]

I finished one of mine tonight. I can't stop staring at it. What a beautiful buggy.

[tamiyoman]

Whats the benefit of the Ball Diff & Torque splitter set?

Also what size tyres fit the bonus rims?

thanks

I only know that even at £60 shipped w/wide the 53034 are selling FAST, we sold 17 of them in last 3 weeks, seems everyone wants one lol.

[TamiyaDan]

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[tamiyoman]

Jeez, that's good going. Personally i see absolutely no point in buying one of these. I won't race my Avante competitively and i couldn't see this particular 60 GBP making any difference anyway except to my wallet!

I'm surprised Tamiya don't re issue this although i guess if the Egress graces us then these will be cheap as chips to buy until certain re sellers buy all of jr-rc's stock of course!!!!

Maybe we will get the Vanquish instead of Egress

[tamiyoman]

I really hope we do and that's not for your sake!

Me too the Vanquish is better looking, cheaper and it does not have the duela ball diffs fitted as std