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Posted

Hi all,

I am unable to locate any good pics of the red/yellow box art. I mean original images by Tamiya. Were these only published on the original body parts set box? The original manual describes how to paint this version, but the pics are black and white. Please help.

Eitan

Posted
Hi all,

I am unable to locate any good pics of the red/yellow box art. I mean original images by Tamiya. Were these only published on the original body parts set box? The original manual describes how to paint this version, but the pics are black and white. Please help.

Eitan

Here are some scans of my rather second hand Sand Scorcher Body Box set of 1979 release. It shows the red / yellow combination. Sorry about the blurriness in the scan, the scanner isn't large enough to scan the box in one go, and it has a border around the glass with some depth so the box can't be placed flat, hence the blur. So I took a picture as well (always tricky to do, the flash reflects off the box).

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Posted
anybody else notice that the white goes all the way to the door handles and the red don't go as far...was this meant to be?

I assume so. This isn't just a color variation. Look at the lines on the roof as well.

Great scans by the way. My scorcherlust is growing.

Posted

Thank you so much Alistair, that is exactly what I was looking for. Suprisingly I couldn't locate it anywhere else! This is the legendary Scorcher after all, so you'd assume it would be a breeze to find.

I see that in this paint scheme the rear lights are all red where in the blue/white scheme the top indicator section is orange. That is the info I was after. Thanks again to everyone who responded in this thread!

Eitan

Posted
I see that in this paint scheme the rear lights are all red where in the blue/white scheme the top indicator section is orange. That is the info I was after. Thanks again to everyone who responded in this thread!

Eitan

Hey good observation! Never noticed that before! Also I see that the front indicators are a very pale pink in color in the red / yellow scheme SS, whereas they are clear orange on the blue / white SS. And of course the headlights have stickers on them on the red and yellow one.

I learned a few days ago that the TS8 and TS16 red and yellow SS scheme paints are back on sale in the UK now after they were withdrawn in Autumn 2007. Funny though I had some of the "dangerous" old formulation that I got from HK a while back LOL

I am in the process of renovating an old 1979 SS shell which had very thick yellow and red paint on it like a kid had painted it, and underneath they had used an ETCH primer :o like the one in Halfords used for 1:1 cars for painting on the metal surfaces, instead of using a plastic safe primer like Halfords also sell for doing 1:1 car bumpers with.

As a result the body was covered in many hundreds of DEEP dark grey scratches :( and the wheel arch edges had been mushed and melted and ruined B) I can't believe I went to the trouble of re-cutting the wheel arch edges almost from scratch back into the shell all around with a Tamiya Fine Craft Knife. It looks amazingly well done which always surprises me when I look at it, I'm not normally that good LOL. It's a good feeling to know I brought this shell back from the dead.

Unfortunately the roof guttering has the usual road rashes on it and I am busy filling it and removing loads of deep scratches from other places including the inside and it's cracked at the front where the nose mounts and at the rear of where the front wing joins the body on one side, so I've put thin liquid styrene cement into the cracks (Tamiya Extra Thin Cement using the built in thin brush or UHU Plast with it's needle style applicator).

I'm going to be reinforcing the section along the front of the bonnet (hood) where the nose cone screws in where the crack extends along, with strip Styrene glued on with Tamiya's normal thicker Styrene Cement (in the hexagonal orange lid bottle) and around the front body mount hole and also around the rear 2 body mount holes if I can. Might also strengthen the window pillars. This one's going to be my runner SS.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

Posted

Well the info came to me after I had already painted the rear lenses red and orange, so I guess I'll leave it be as this is too subtle to mess with. The real 1:1 lenses did in fact come in both versions (full red for the US market). However, as for the front indicator lenses I think the pink could be the art fading on the box, as it is likely orange ones were used.

Good luck with that restoration, lets see pictures!

Eitan

Posted
Well the info came to me after I had already painted the rear lenses red and orange, so I guess I'll leave it be as this is too subtle to mess with. The real 1:1 lenses did in fact come in both versions (full red for the US market). However, as for the front indicator lenses I think the pink could be the art fading on the box, as it is likely orange ones were used.

Good luck with that restoration, lets see pictures!

Eitan

Interesting about the 1:1 lenses. I don't think there has been significant fading of the box art since the red and yellow colors are still strong. Also BOTH of my 2 SS body box set boxes show the same light pink indicator lenses on the red / yellow SS.

I'll put some piccies on in a bit if my mood improves... since last night I found out that my crack welding didn't much work and I have backed them with small sections of sheet styrene but I don't know if it's going to be effective. I've got 2 shells with cracks in them, it's sickening. And I haven't the nerve to start doing the paint on my perfect SS shell yet, I was hoping to get a few runners going and practice my paint skills on these other two first. But if the cracks propogate then I am stuffed.

Why Oh Why did Tamiya think it was acceptable to re-release the Sand Scorcher with a white Blitzer Beetle shell I will never understand (IMHO). It's like a knife twisting in me. I'll only be happy when I've a few runners in my collection with original shells. I can't stand the BB shell on a Scorcher. The flat arches drive me crazy :lol: And yes I know I keep banging on about it but I feel VERY strongly about this, it upsets me. Oh if only I could go out and buy the original SS shell at 30 quid a box set... Tamiya are really slipping, the quality is still there but the attention to detail is sometimes found wanting these days.

I've also got to put the second rear wing on my Desert Racer SS (which is a Volksrod style custom thingy).

Cheers,

Alistair G.

Posted
Interesting about the 1:1 lenses. I don't think there has been significant fading of the box art since the red and yellow colors are still strong. Also BOTH of my 2 SS body box set boxes show the same light pink indicator lenses on the red / yellow SS.

I'll put some piccies on in a bit if my mood improves... since last night I found out that my crack welding didn't much work and I have backed them with small sections of sheet styrene but I don't know if it's going to be effective. I've got 2 shells with cracks in them, it's sickening. And I haven't the nerve to start doing the paint on my perfect SS shell yet, I was hoping to get a few runners going and practice my paint skills on these other two first. But if the cracks propogate then I am stuffed.

Why Oh Why did Tamiya think it was acceptable to re-release the Sand Scorcher with a white Blitzer Beetle shell I will never understand (IMHO). It's like a knife twisting in me. I'll only be happy when I've a few runners in my collection with original shells. I can't stand the BB shell on a Scorcher. The flat arches drive me crazy :lol: And yes I know I keep banging on about it but I feel VERY strongly about this, it upsets me. Oh if only I could go out and buy the original SS shell at 30 quid a box set... Tamiya are really slipping, the quality is still there but the attention to detail is sometimes found wanting these days.

I've also got to put the second rear wing on my Desert Racer SS (which is a Volksrod style custom thingy).

Cheers,

Alistair G.

For Crack welding I use Plastruct Bondene or MEK and works well, also back cracks with very thin styrene which is plyable even around sharp corners once the solvent softened it. I feel strongly the other way that the authentic scorcher shell can be identified from the rere, makes fixing and restoring original shells all the more worthwhile and rewarding.

James

Posted

I already saw it coming when they released the Buggy Champ. I said to myself, they'll probably re-release the Scorcher soon, but with the Blitzer body. Frustrating or not, to me it was obvious they wouldn't bother to recreate the original mold when they are still making the Blitzer body. I was even surprised they bothered to make it in white. The logic is simple; Tamiya are a commercial company aimed at profit only. From a "normal" person's point of view, the differences are too subtle to notice and this wouldn't hinder sales of the kit. And their aim is the "normal" majority of people.

That's just my two cents. Personally, I think it's great that we got a second opportunity to crack open a NIB SRB kit without having to sell a kidney.

Eitan

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