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Posted

Looks good so far.

It's difficult to judge from the picture, but it looks like there should be enough room to lay down the shocks a little more & fabricate a lower profile mount. I know it will change the suspension dynamics a bit, but I can live with that.

Posted

that looks really good.

when tackling the issue of the front shocks / mount hitting body, DO NOT take a leaf out of tamiya's book.

remember the holiday buggy 2010 unpleasantness . . . . . . :huh:

Posted
Looks good so far.

It's difficult to judge from the picture, but it looks like there should be enough room to lay down the shocks a little more & fabricate a lower profile mount. I know it will change the suspension dynamics a bit, but I can live with that.

This is exactly my plan. I'll mess with it more today and see if there is an easy way to do it.

Also, I have NO PLANS whatsoever to pull a "Holiday Buggy" mod to the shell. HAhaaaa..... :huh:

My first attempt is going to be to cut off the lower mounting point of the shock mount, drill 2 new mounting holes and try that.

Should move the shock mound down around 5mm. If possible I may remove the shock mount all together and put the ball nuts right where the shock mount was.

May have to dremel away some of the material so the shock will clear.

I'll know more when I mess with it today... But it WILL BE DONE! :D

Cheers,

Skottoman

Posted

You will probably need to move the top mounts outwards to maintain clearance for the shock bodies

I think you can probably do something with a small plate, alloy or carbon or similar.

This is what I did on my M04XL Stratos to put long travel shocks on it for "rally" use, too tall for the M06 / 911 combination, but the principle is the same;

img19691_11052009215839_7.jpg

Posted

So after building the shocks, and putting tires on the rims. I think it might just work "stock".

I spent 1 hour trying to modify a mount, and had some success. My goal was to not mess anything up on the actual kit.

After playing around and realizing I was ending up with NO suspension travel in front, I put it together stock, (with tires on rims), and set the body on.

Looks like it might be perfect as is. Might have to do a no post mounting system, but it might work out just fine...

Experimenting sure tells you a lot of stuff. I moved the rear shims to in front of the hub, as it appears the wheelbase is just a little short on the chassis. Every mm will help with the final look.

Some other things to note:

- The hex fit of the tamiya 12mm wheel adaptors, to the HPI is not a tight fit. For some reason it appears to have .5mm or so gap. A wrap of masking tape around the hex helps some.

- The axles of the M06 stick out very far on the HPI wheels and look funny. I currently am putting a spacer just before the wheel nut so the nut goes to the end of the axle. The nut still sticks out a bit, but looks better than axle sticking out.

- You MUST use the black HPI wheel nuts that come with the Fuchs wheels as Tamiya nuts are too large. Also they use the smaller end of the Tamiya tool to tighten. Smaller!

- I used a black O-ring on the step screws holding the shocks. Cuts down on a lot of free play there.

****took a break, then back to the build****

Ok, IT FITS!!!!!

Chassis is complete, electronics and all. Body is fitted and sorted. Wheels are spaced out to match the body as much as possible.

No change in front shock mount required. Excellent. I'll note that I did use no forward spacers on the top front shock screws, to keep them as close to the shock tower and as far away from the front of the car as possible. Saved about 3mm, which is noticeable due to the slope of the hood/bonnet.

Just moving this around for the pictures, it's really noticable how rear heavy this is. Like a Carrera should be... Super cool.

I'll note that in these photos, I have another pin hole to move the body even lower. Worked out like a charm.

Currently at this setting the hood/bonnet is not touching the shock tower. At the lowest setting (1 more pin hole down), it just touches the shock tower.

I'll probably add some aluminum tape once painting is done to protect from rubbing if I run it that low.

Now onto the paint and details!

Cheers,

Skottoman

m06_build5.jpg

m06_build6.jpg

m06_build7.jpg

m06_build8.jpg

Posted
- I used a black O-ring on the step screws holding the shocks. Cuts down on a lot of free play there.

Be careful using o-rings on moving parts like that. Any friction in the shock mounts will have an surprisingly significant effect on the handling.

Look forward to seeing the completed car.

Posted

Better to use ball ends if you can rather than o-rings.

Great to know it all fits & lines up, I knew it would be tight, but wasn't sure if we'd be lucky or not. :D

What tyres are those slicks ?

Posted
Better to use ball ends if you can rather than o-rings.

Great to know it all fits & lines up, I knew it would be tight, but wasn't sure if we'd be lucky or not. :D

What tyres are those slicks ?

I still have play in the shock mounts, so not worried about any friction issues there. Prob was the shocks were moving front/back on the step screw a good 3mm or more.

I have some aluminum M dampers on order, and will probably switch to ball ends when they come in. The kit shocks don't have ball end connectors on the shock caps, so can't use them with the kit shocks. Besides, I'd be afraid to snap that brittle clear plastic.

The tires are the HPI Cup Racer slicks. Must use HPI tires with these wheels.

Cheers,

Skottoman

Posted
The tires are the HPI Cup Racer slicks. Must use HPI tires with these wheels.

Cheers,

Skottoman

Ah, I wish I'd known that when I ordered the wheels & shell <_<

Oh well, I don't need them just yet anyway.

Posted

My M06 Pro is at the PO waiting for me to collect it tomorrow.

Can't wait!!

This my first M chassis.

I've built 2 DF03's and started a Hilift F350.

This will have the Renault body, but I'm yet to purchase it.

Can anyone please advise on what alternative Dampers can be fitted to replace the brittle see-thru ones?

Posted
My M06 Pro is at the PO waiting for me to collect it tomorrow.

Can't wait!!

This my first M chassis.

I've built 2 DF03's and started a Hilift F350.

This will have the Renault body, but I'm yet to purchase it.

Can anyone please advise on what alternative Dampers can be fitted to replace the brittle see-thru ones?

I heard the clear dampers are brittle yeah. I'd skip the CVA dampers altogether if you're buying new dampers - and I wouldn't go for aftermarket dampers either. Tamiya's M-chassis dampers, or TRF touring car dampers - is what you're looking for ;)

Posted

Tamiya used clear plastic for some of the DT02 gearboxes. The rear suspension arms also attaches to it, but it doesn't strike me as brittle. At least not broken yet...

Posted
+1 for the M chassis TRF's, they are superb.

Thanks for your steer.

Having looked around Ebay, it looks like either Tamiya 54000 or 84118 damper set then.

Posted

I have some of the M aluminum dampers on order...

My M06-HPI Porsche is compete!

It's a very smooth driver, and with a brushed motor has just enough power to do some "Oversteer" turns just like a real Porsche.

I think I am going to enjoy this chassis. Perhaps though a brushless setup is in my future. Haha...

Check out pix at my showroom.

Cheers,

Skottoman

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...96&id=22013

Posted
Tamiya used clear plastic for some of the DT02 gearboxes. The rear suspension arms also attaches to it, but it doesn't strike me as brittle. At least not broken yet...

It could be another type of plastic. It is possible (actually pretty likely) that they used PP for the dampers, which becomes brittle under freezing point/colder temperatures.

Posted
The 84118 set doesn't come with springs, but they are cheaper generally. If you already have springs then they will suit you fine.

And they're a lovely black Ltd. Ed. finish too ;)

Black is good.

Would I be able to use the kit springs on these dampers?

Posted

Yes kit springs will fit.

You also have a wide range of other options too, 53163, 53333, 53630, 31, 32, 33 & 49382 (whew, I'm sure that's not all of them either)

The M06 Pro kit comes with 42168, the same spec as 53333, but black overall.

Posted
Yes kit springs will fit.

You also have a wide range of other options too, 53163, 53333, 53630, 31, 32, 33 & 49382 (whew, I'm sure that's not all of them either)

The M06 Pro kit comes with 42168, the same spec as 53333, but black overall.

I really appreciate your info.

I'll research a bit more before deciding where to spend my money.

Posted

Just wanted to update this thread with some driving impressions of my M06 Pro with HPI Cup Racer wheels/tires.

I'm now running the M06 with the HPI Porsche RSR body. The driving realism is the best I've ever experienced with an RC.

The weight shift, the rear slide/cornering with the rear weight bias really makes this little Porsche drive realistically!

I can't speak to the handling of the M06 using the stock tamiya tires though, as I think they are S grip in back and regular 60D's in front.

This is the tire setup on the M04, and it understeers quite a bit.

I'm running HPI MX60 S slicks on this, and all 4 tires are the same. No tail happy oversteering car. Well balanced, rear is tossable as it should be for a Porsche.

I am so happy with the outcome of this setup, that I ordered 2 more sets of the Fuchs wheels and will try M slicks next time. Oh, and another Porsche body for the M06.

Tamiya really should release a version of the early Porsche for use with this chassis. It is just so realistic and fun!

I'm running a Trinity Monster horsepower 27T motor but will probably change it to a brushless system in the future. For now though, scale speeds and handling are where it's at!

Cheers,

Skottoman

Posted

Excellent news !!.

I'm glad to hear Tamiya have a docile (well as docile as it gets being rwd) rear drive chassis. Sounds like it's a big step forward from the M04.

I've never got on well with Tamiya tyres, even S grips, but it sounds like the HPI tyres are well matched to the M06.

You say you're running a Trinity 27, so it should be ok with brushless around 3000kv.

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