Manta Ray Rebuild

[paul_f 3]

My parents have had a sort out of their loft and have given me my Manta Ray which has sat unused for 16 or more years.

I want to get it up and running again, but unfortunately it had quite a hard life when I was young!

It is in bits as when I last used it I stripped the gearbox for the third time and broken the motor mount and couldn't afford to repair it on my paper round wages! The gearbox was stripping as I had a modified motor but the rest of the car was stock...

I have had a read of some other threads of Manta Ray rebuilds and have ordered the 50529 all plastic gear set.

The list of parts I have written down to get still are

New NIMH batteries (I have a charger for my mountain bike lights which will work for up to 4000mAh NIMh packs)

Uprated prop shaft

Ball bearing kit

New tyres (mine are totally bald)

I also need the following, can anyone make any recommendations as to what I should get. I just want to play about in the alley behind my garage and also with a mate on his farm as he is digging out his old cars as well. I don't want to spend too much

New motor and pinion

Speed controller

Servo

Alloy motor mount

I'll put some photos up soon

Cheers

Paul

[BritCrawler 0]

Apart from the suspension, hubs and 4 drive shafts, the Manta Ray is pretty much the same as a TA-01 and DF-01. You can still get most spares for those, including the ball bearing kits, so that's one starting point.

Also, the alloy centre driveshaft for the TA-01 (**not** the TA-02 - it's on a shorter bathtub) also fits the Manta Ray, I think.

Steel motor pinions are a must on those. Stock ones wear like mad. I agree with the other threads, stick to an all nylon gearbox otherwise as the alloy gear sets wear too fast. I don't think the original Manta Ray ran Ball Diffs (its been a long time since I had mine) but TA-02 ball diffs might be a possible upgrade. Otherwise stick to the bevel gear diffs if they are in good condition.

I also strongly recommend you get an Alloy motor mount as a priority to replace the crappy plastic one as they always break. The Yeah Racing one is the better one IMHO, as it's a one-piece design. The gearbox probably stripped as a result of the motor mount breaking under the strain of the mod motor. it causes major pinion/spur misalignment which is pretty fatal for the nylon spur gear!

If you are just messing about, chuck a standard silver can in it and see how it goes, as I remember the Manta Ray wasn't half bad on a stock motor. If you want a bit more speed, a decent 27T, 21T or 19T might be more useful but you'll need a decent electronic speed controller with those, the manual one won't cut it for long.

I've found from the TA-01s I pulled part a while back they tend to wear well. Be careful not to strip the threads in the plastic and it ought to come apart and go back together just fine.

For parts eBay is your friend.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Jasons-Store (in Japan so shipping is a week or so)

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Tonys-Tamiya-Parts

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/the-bitz-store

All good places for Tamiya stock an Hop Up parts.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Dinball

Is a good starting place for other aftermarket alloy parts.

[lego1978 0]

Hi.

As a long time Manta Ray fan and owner i have the following recommendations.

Important:

Full ball bearings in the car.

If you run anything more than a Sport Tuned motor you need a ball diff in the rear gearbox. This prevents your gears from stripping too easily.

Upgraded propshaft, 53079, same as the Top Force uses.

An ESC of course

Nice upgrades:

The one way bearing, 53071, Torque splitter set. This makes the car more fun to drive and gives you lots of oversteer.

The adjustable upper arm set gives you a little tuning possebilities

Everybody recommends the alu motor mount, but my standard motor mount never broke and I used to run a 12x2 motor.

Cheers

Lars

[Percymon 2183]

Fibre-lyte also do a few parts (chassis, front and rear suspention mounts) if you want to light weight and/or not keep original.

I'm also rebuilding one (blasted ebay !!) - its all completely stripped now ; motor mount snapped, and a couple of posts that hold the speed controller deck to the chassis have broken. Nothing major. Biggest issue is cleaning it all up - I think its last outing was in a swamp Need new body shell too.

Good luck with the rebuild

[paul_f 3]

Thanks for the all replies. I want to keep the car with the original chassis, but add a few updates that I wanted when I used it.

When I got it all out I was quite pleased as it wasn't quite as bad as I remembered.

There were 3 sets of gearboxes, but it turned out that I had purchased the A (front shock tower and gear casings) and B trees (rear shock and gear casings) as well as a new gear set and uprights, started the rebuild but never finished putting it back together.

I have stripped it all down and have cleaned it all (except the chassis as it wouldn't fit) in my ultrasonic cleaner.

Although I have the new plastic motor mount I will still purchase a yeah racing alloy motor mount.

Is the stainless propshaft better than the alloy yeah racing one? I'd like to get a torque splitter but they seem to be pretty rare/expensive.

Once the new rear gears (all plastic) and ball races arrive I will build up the rear gearboxes. Then I can look at the suspension, there seem to be a lot of play in the steering and top links when I stripped it down.

Anyway here are a few pictures. The chassis has two lugs broken off for the battery cover. I will drill the threads out of these broken lugs and then glue them back on. I will then use longer screws to bite into the hole that passes through to the bottom of the chassis. The shell is pretty battered, I had used layers of sellotape to stop it falling off

[TA-Mark 195]

If you run anything more than a Sport Tuned motor you need a ball diff in the rear gearbox. This prevents your gears from stripping too easily.

The bevel gear diffs are much stronger than the ball diffs. The outdrive splines are also longer on a gear diff. I've shredded many ball diffs in my DF01s while running high powered brushless. Both the outdrives splines sheared out and the diff melted from slipping. I'm still yet to break a bevel gear diff.

Manta Ray ball diffs (these are also used in the TA02 and Top Force DF01) are NOT adjustable. The only way to adjust tension on the diff is to add thin shims to the conical spring washers.

The best diff you can fit is a bevel gear diff packed with some Tamiya anti-wear grease (the sticky stuff) so the diff isn't quite so 'open'.

Use the TA02 all plastic gearsets. The DF01 two piece spur gears (aluminium gear fitted into the backside of the spur) and the aluminium idler gears in the rear gearbox wear very quickly. The plastic gears of a TA02 will last 10 times longer.

Also only use steel pinions, and toss the aluminium Tamiya AV pinions in the trash. The pinions are 0.6mod (RW Racing or Robinson Racing).

[paul_f 3]

I have a set of the plastic TA02 gears on their way to me.

Just been putting together the suspension pieces, seems there is a lot of play in plastic pieces that fit over the step screws, is that normal? Even with the new plastic suspension towers?

Cheers

Paul

[paul_f 3]

The best diff you can fit is a bevel gear diff packed with some Tamiya anti-wear grease (the sticky stuff) so the diff isn't quite so 'open'.

I have packed my rear diff, and it definately isn't as open! Should I pack the the front one as well?

I have bought the following

Ball races

Tamiya TEU104 ESC (ebay)

Tamiya dirt tuned motor (ebay)

21t steel RW pinion

New chassis tub (£3 on ebay)

Alloy propshaft (still waiting)

Alloy motor mount (still waiting)

So hopefully I can start the rebuild over the Xmas break

[paul_f 3]

Well 7 years on and I am finally rebuilding my Manta Ray.

I have reassembled most of it, shimming the lower arm to reduce the play.

Installed

-Ball races

-Alloy Propshaft

-New Plastic TA02 Gearset

-Dirt tuned motor with 21t steel pinion

-Tamiya ESC

 

[paul_f 3]

Unfortunately I have lost one of the coil lower mounts from the damper.

Rather than rebuilding and cleaning them I was wondering what the ebay aluminium damper sets were like.  Has anyone used these or can recommend something else to use?

 

[ThunderDragonCy 7285]

I have a spare pair of Manta Ray shocks in almost new condition if you want something matching. In my experience unless you spend out on G-made alloy shocks as a minimum you are better off buying tamiya CVA dampers than cheap alloy dampers. Only reason I have the Manta Ray shocks spare is I replaced them with modern black body tamiya plastic CVA shocks to go with my Terra Conqueror shell.

[Percymon 2183]

I probably have some spare spring platforms - let me have a look for you, i'll pop one in the post tomorrow if i do.

Tamiya CVA shocks are pretty good in fairness, and are less likely to leak than even Gmade.

 

 

[paul_f 3]

3 minutes ago, Percymon said:

I probably have some spare spring platforms - let me have a look for you, i'll pop one in the post tomorrow if i do.

Tamiya CVA shocks are pretty good in fairness, and are less likely to leak than even Gmade.

I do like the yellow ones, so it would be great if I could have one.

I have found I am also missing the rear body mount as well (E6) , you wouldn't have one of those I could buy off you by any chance?   It is quite expensive to  buy the whole E parts tree for the one little part that I need

[Baddon 858]

any other cars run this chassis?

[paul_f 3]

My body is awful, will replace that at some point (seen repros on eBay).   I got a set of yellow painted wheels and original tyres back in 2010 so will repaint the wheels and fit them for now.  My originals were damaged due to my glueing attempts and tyre removals when I was aged 12

I put U/J axles in the front of the car, I cant remember where I got these from though.  At the back I have the original plastic end dog-bones.

Should I just put the plastic ones in, or should I get something to replace them with?  If so any suggestions please

 

[Percymon 2183]

I have a complete D parts sprue you can have.

I'll have to go look again for E6.

[ThunderDragonCy 7285]

Metal driveshafts part number 9805551 drop straight. They will be fine in the rear.

[ThunderDragonCy 7285]

1 hour ago, Baddon said:

any other cars run this chassis?

Lots. DF01 chassis.

Manta Ray, Dirt Thrasher, Blazing Star, Terra Conqueror, Top Force, Top Force Evolution.

[Baddon 858]

Tell me do these have more ground clearance than a TT-02B, bought a Neo scorcher and while its fun its VERY low for a buggy.  Was working on my Terra Scorcher today and it has WAY more ground clearance.

[ThunderDragonCy 7285]

39 minutes ago, Baddon said:

Tell me do these have more ground clearance than a TT-02B, bought a Neo scorcher and while its fun its VERY low for a buggy.  Was working on my Terra Scorcher today and it has WAY more ground clearance.

A bit more, but not much. These are the first of the new wave of lower clearance buggies. I have a Thunder Dragon and it has loads more clearance than my DF01 or DT03. That said it's harder to get my Thunder Dragon not to grip roll on high grip surfaces like grass so there are reasons for them getting lower over the years.

[Baddon 858]

3 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

A bit more, but not much. These are the first of the new wave of lower clearance buggies. I have a Thunder Dragon and it has loads more clearance than my DF01 or DT03. That said it's harder to get my Thunder Dragon not to grip roll on high grip surfaces like grass so there are reasons for them getting lower over the years.

You can make a thundershot Dragon at lower but not the others higher

[Percymon 2183]

15 hours ago, Percymon said:

I have a complete D parts sprue you can have.

I'll have to go look again for E6.

No E6 sorry - message me your address so i can send you the D sprue

[paul_f 3]

Ordered quite a few things today

-Damper oil and new seals

-Steel dogbones 9805551

-Some M3 capheads and nyloc nuts to strengthen the gearbox top cover

- New alloy wheel hex as a couple of mine were cracked

[paul_f 3]

I only ordered new seals for the top of the dampers.  Need to order new seals for the bottom

The rear damper oil was very black, fronts like new

[ThunderDragonCy 7285]

Get the tamiya red seals. Better than the black ones.