Clod Buster Shocks Questions And Recommendation

[Rob Buckle 1]

Dear all,

I am looking to upgrade the stock shocks of the Clod Buster to oil filled shocks. I've read many posts here on the subject but still have a few questions that hopefully someone can answer, as I'm coming back to RC after many, many years away:

1. Most posts on the subject of shocks for the Clod Buster recommend first trying 4 replacement shocks as opposed to replacing all 8 original shocks. Why is that? Is it because the original 8 shocks make the Clod Buster too stiff?;

2. Assuming the answer to 1 above is yes, is it not possible to replace all 8 original shocks with 8 oil filled shocks with very soft springs so that overall the replacement shocks are less stiff than the original shocks (see text here for 'soft' springs: http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/dp0007sv...-p-1561.html)?;

3. What effect do different grades of shock oil have on the shock? Does it make the shock more or less stiff? If so, could this, in addition to soft shock springs help if I wished to retain the 8-shock-look of the Clod Buster but have a shock system that performed well overall?;

4. Should replacement shocks for the Clod Buster be 100mm long, or can they be longer if, say, the Clod was being modified to ride higher?;

5. Is the threaded collar on shocks there to increase/decrease stiffness of the shock by reducing travel of the spring? For example: http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/dp0007bu....html?picsize=1

6. Any recommendations for replacement shocks? I am looking for sleek/elegant looking units. Price is probably irrelevant if the shock is to my liking. Shocks must be good quality. The Traxxas big bore shocks are not my cup of tea (too bulky looking for my taste) but the following I quite like:

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=37578

http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/dp0007sv....html?picsize=1

http://www.junfac.com/shop/index.php?main_...products_id=209

Any additional recommendations?

Cheers,

Rob

[commiedoor 18]

hi mate , it was all basicly answered here .. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=59664 ..its about 4 threads down the page from this one ....... or try the search function ..cheers

[Jonesy76 0]

Hi Rob,

Well I had 8 Yeah Racing oil filled jobs on mine for looks mainly. Soft springs fitted and soft oil and it ran like a demon........way way WAY less bouncy than those awful stock things.

Got mine for £10.49 a pair from eBay here in the UK (stick "100mm shocks" in the eBay search function and it should find them), and got some shock oil from the same seller (he has a website called Racing Punk).

Not sure about using longer shocks. Technically it should be possible, but you're going to end up shrinking an already short wheelbase for such a big truck, and it may well affect steering if you're not going to use separate servos. I'd go for 100mm shocks but maybe a little bit of trimming of the black plastic bathtub to try and get more vertical movement........or go mental with an aftermarket chassis.

That's the problem with clods..........

Once you start modding there is no going back, and there's too much to play with!

[mike_o 35]

...

3. What effect do different grades of shock oil have on the shock? Does it make the shock more or less stiff? If so, could this, in addition to soft shock springs help if I wished to retain the 8-shock-look of the Clod Buster but have a shock system that performed well overall?;

...

The spring rate (stifness) and oil thickness must be matched. Too stiff springs with to thin oil will lead to an underdampened system that tends to oscillate, while too soft springs with to thick oil will lower ride height and lack bump absorption.

[TWINSET 1793]

1) The original shocks are fairly slow to 'react' when new, but get very sloppy once the damping sleeve is worn. Because the spring rates for similar length shocks are usually for larger trucks with more sprung weight, 4 is a good starting point. When you look at a E-Maxx etc, the motors, transmission etc is all attached to the chassis, so they need 8 shocks to keep everything level. The Clod chassis is a lot lighter once you remove the un-sprung weight (the axles)

2) It is possible to 8 shock it but the hop-up option is, I believe, the gold TLT/Juggernaut shock set which cost £lots and come in 4s (so that's £lots x 2)

3) Springs, oil and piston tuning (number of holes and size of holes) all affect the shock's compression/reaction characteristics, if you're really looking to tune the suspension make sure your final shock choice is tuneable - the springs are definitely not all the same diameter, so don't go for a Yeah/GMade shock if you can't get the springs. Out of your 'options' the HPI ones will probably have the most choice, unless you go for an Associated shock (the 1.24 is 4" I think) but again, you're venturing into £lots territory

4) 100mm is about right, there's nothing in the way of geometry adjustment on a stock Clod - if you up the ride height too much you will, by consequence, shorten the wheelbase, affect the steering (assuming the servo's still in the bowels of the chassis) etc.

5) The collar adjusts/limits the ride height (sag, settle etc.) - spring rate is changed by changing springs - If you crank the collar right down, the spring will be in an almost compressed state but still have the same rebound force - all you do is limit the amount of space left between the spring's coils, which limits the amount the shock will travel (IIRC)

[Rob Buckle 1]

Thanks TWINSET,

Just a few additional questions to help me understand, if you don't mind:

It is possible to 8 shock it but the hop-up option is, I believe, the gold TLT/Juggernaut shock set...

So if I understand correctly, the above noted shocks (these?: http://tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp?cid=97342) must be very soft?

Springs, oil and piston tuning (number of holes and size of holes...

By piston tuning do you refer, for example, to these: http://teamassociated.com/news/latest_prod...ore_16mm_Shocks!

Are these inside the cylinder and the rate at which oil can be squeezed through the circumferential holes by the shock shaft (sorry if I'm using the wrong terms here) governs the reaction time of vertical travel of the shock? Am I understanding things right?

100mm is about right, there's nothing in the way of geometry adjustment on a stock Clod - if you up the ride height too much you will, by consequence, shorten the wheelbase, affect the steering (assuming the servo's still in the bowels of the chassis) etc.

Understood. I figured I'd have to lengthen the four arms connecting the chassis to the gearboxes in order to retain the same wheelbase if larger shocks were adopted. Just wanted to see if, in principle, shocks of greater length could be adopted.

Cheers,

Rob

[TWINSET 1793]

It is possible to 8 shock it but the hop-up option is, I believe, the gold TLT/Juggernaut shock set...

So if I understand correctly, the above noted shocks (these?: http://tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp?cid=97342) must be very soft?

Those are just shocks that will fit

Pretty sure THESE are the official hop-up, but do some research before shelling out £loads

They're also standard kit on the TLT so include that in your searches if you're set on 8 shocks.

Springs, oil and piston tuning (number of holes and size of holes...

By piston tuning do you refer, for example, to these: http://teamassociated.com/news/latest_prod...ore_16mm_Shocks!

Yes, each manufacturer MAY offer optional pistons - GMade include them in the pack. You can always mod a piston by drilling a bigger hole in it, just make sure spares are readily available in case you over do it - Like springs, pistons are usually unique to brand - the thickness, diameter and rod diameter are all non-standard dimensions

100mm is about right, there's nothing in the way of geometry adjustment on a stock Clod - if you up the ride height too much you will, by consequence, shorten the wheelbase, affect the steering (assuming the servo's still in the bowels of the chassis) etc.

Understood. I figured I'd have to lengthen the four arms connecting the chassis to the gearboxes in order to retain the same wheelbase if larger shocks were adopted. Just wanted to see if, in principle, shocks of greater length could be adopted.

You could use longer shocks if you're prepared to make your own links, but the stock chassis doesn't lend itself to gobs of articulation so, again, don't go nuts straight away - chances are much more articulation will result in the tyres rubbing the shell

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=59225

[Rob Buckle 1]

...do some research before shelling out £loads

Don't worry, I have and plan to do so further. This thread (and upcoming others regarding esc, motors etc) forms part of that research.

...each manufacturer MAY offer optional pistons - GMade include them in the pack. You can always mod a piston by drilling a bigger hole in it, just make sure spares are readily available in case you over do it - Like springs, pistons are usually unique to brand - the thickness, diameter and rod diameter are all non-standard dimensions

Got it, thanks.

Rob