Sand Scorcher Painting...

[netsmithUK]

Stripped my SS shell now and its come up like new - now we get to the scarey bit... painting it.

Just wandered if you had any tips at all for that expert job, like

Do you spray the whole thing gloss white first and then the blue bits or do you just spray the white roughly where it is going to show.

Plus how the badword do you mask it?

Any tips would be great.

chris

[Dazmeister]

Spray the whole shell white first then use Tamiya masking tape as this is superb. It is very tricky to mask up but just be patient and you wont have too many bleed throughs when you spray the blue over the top. Take the masking tape off after about an hour or so and touch up any inperfections with a fine Tamiya modeling brush using the aerosol paint sprayed into the lid. Clearcoat or laquer the whole shell then leave in a warm place for about a week to let the paint harden. Use that fine brush or a paint marker to do the finer detail on the window trim and apply decals....Voila !!!

Macca

[netsmithUK]

thanks Daz,

how long do leave between coats - assuming i am doing this in a garage ie not drying in suns heat.

also which clear coat do you use? I tried it once but it ended up looking less shiney than if i brasso'd the last coat of paint i did.

chris

[rc-martin]

Take the masking tape off as soon as you can, I left mine about a day and it reacted with the white underneath so its back in the bucket. It does take a while to mask up, be patient, have a sharp craft knife. Good luck.

[netsmithUK]

what about the nose cone, sun roof and rear light pods - do you spray them seperately and then stick on when finished. Or stick them on and then spray?

[mr_lister999.]

I remove everything and then spray. No problems so far. I found this best as when you spay with the roof on, paint builds up in the gap and makes the lines less visable. (ok, i have only done 3 scorches so not an expert, but they are fine.)

[PandaBear]

quote:

Take the masking tape off as soon as you can, I left mine about a day and it reacted with the white underneath so its back in the bucket.

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id=quote>id=quote>

I have left the yellow tape on fresh paint for extended times without damage before... but is different matter when painting the 2nd layer over, fresh paint or not.

The tape is proving perhaps not impervious to spraypaint's solvent - imho this solvent soaks thru the tape and mars the masked layer. (The damage is usually only a matte effect which can be fixed with the later clearcoat, but on some metallics the metallic particles might get realigned unsightly too.)

Current technique is to use the yellow tape just for its clean lines, and then infill and cover most of that with a thicker other-brand tape; seems to work well.

Keep an eye out for *blue* 3M masking tape too. This is the stuff pros use for pinstriping, and is impervious to solvent. Not cheap but I'm told it works well... I'm still looking.

[Dazmeister]

I'll second pandabear on the blue 3m gear as its great. My local auto factors stock it, its not cheap but its cheaper than the Tamiya gear.

Macca

[PandaBear]

Whilst you're down at the auto bodyshop, grab some 3M wet-n-dry sandpaper too!! Buying their large black sheets of 1200/2000/3000 grit is cheaper than Tamiya's little grey tissues.

[Shodog]

sorry to drag up this old thread. I painted mine blue first then plan to spray a primer coat then white.

I thought it would be easier to tape for the white becase the door hinge is right in the path of where you would tape off the white to paint the blue. The hood also looks easier to fill in with a piece of tape than to tape around it to paint the blue. Did I screw up?

[netsmithUK]

I guess we'll find out after you've painted the white []

[Scorchio]

I've done it both ways now, I did red first on a red/yellow & white first on a blue white. My findings were as follows.

Red First on red yellow: easier masking but tricky spraying evenly with yellow as its all long narrow areas,

White first on blue: masking tricky but easier to get even spray finish. I experienced some bleed around bonnet pannels but thats probably just me.

Also on the issue of masking tape eating into to paint, I found this to be worse with Tamiya Pure White than any other colour.

Though I assume your scorcher has long since been built Chris :-)

[MadMax]

As this was my 1st detailed repro i used white primer then ford diamond white car paint left it for about an hour near a radiator then used tamiya masking tape before applying the blue again left it about an hour then i finally masked around the windows cut out around where the black would go for the rubber trim and used a 000 paint brush and matt black humbrol the whole body was done within a day.[]

[bone_mallone]

Did mine the weekend, the conventional way also experienced bleeding on the bonnet and door hinges. The top of the scorcher was perfect as its nice and smooth.

I dont know if the white primer will hold back the blue tho, good luck. []

[mymonsterbeetleisbroken]

ive not got a scorcher[V]

but i was thinking of painting my monster beetle in the scorcher colours.

but then i thought that would look daft[]

i collect tonkas, (real tuff toys ect ect,,,, big elephant stands on one in advert)

back in the 1970's tonka made vw beetles,

you can gess where this is going cant u[8D]

i'll post a pic when i get some film for my polaroid [][}]

[poulpit]

Originally posted by netsmithUK

Do you spray the whole thing gloss white first and then the blue bits or do you just spray the white roughly where it is going to show.

Plus how the badword do you mask it?

Any tips would be great.

chris

Hi Chris,

Another tip: when you've finished your paint, spray your light blue from the Tamiya can in one little cup. Then, you can use one fine paint brush to correct your defaults, irregular lines or curves due to the masking tape. The Tamiya paint is so fine, you can't see any difference of blue colour .[]

P.S.: Have you send me yet the SS repro decals? Thank's[]

François.

[bernhard]

paint makes the job complete dont rush.....if you put light coats of colour on, the paint wont bleed under masking after putting paint on and final clearcoat...wet flat clear coat using 1500 grit until finish is smooth bring shine back using farecla g4 then g10 polish available from motor factors

the principal is the same painting real cars... long time since i have painted an rc car body on the outside super champ first car

jay

[RichieRich]

I'm currently painting a Blackfoot Xtreme body. It's my first try at painting hard bodies. As bernhard said, I've read that painting a hard body is much like painting a full scale car. There's primer involved along with wet sanding and multiple layers of paint. Do you guys have access to Pactra masking tape in the UK? That's generally what we use here in the states. It sticks well and doesn't leave a residue.