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Posted

I am wondering if anyone has tried this before and how it will turn out..

I was doing my Christmas cards last night and a lot of very fine glitter came off all over my keyboard and it looked really good. I then got to thinking..

If I spray paint my new Sand Scorcher body and then cover it lightly with the super fine glitter and then spray the lacquer. Do you think this is worth a try or will I end up wrecking a body?

Posted

in the 90's we (family business) painted some powerboats using glitter paint.

the glitter was added into the laquer itself, in the spray gun, with a small bolt in there to rattle around as an agitator.

it worked really well - i think the stuff we had was from "House of Kolor".

theoretically what you are suggesting should work fine. the only problem i can forsee is getting an even coverage of the glitter.

maybe first see if you can hunt down some laquer with glitter already in it!

no paint job will wreck the body. if it goes bandy, just flat it down and redo it. or brake fluid the whole body and strip it back to bare and start again.

Posted

The surface will be 'bumpy' once you apply the glitter. You will need to put 5 or so clear coats (without glitter, drying between coats) over the glitter before you start to rub it back with fine wet and dry paper so that you don't sand the actual glitter. Repeat the clear coats (without glitter again), and repeat the fine sanding until you have a flat surface, each time being careful not to sand too much and sand away the glitter. You also need to be careful not to sand too much over raised details. Once the 'bumps' are all covered you can cut/polish it to a nice glossy mirror finish without any 'metal flake' bumps.

Wrapping the fine wet/dry sand paper around a new pencil eraser and securing it with a staple on the backside makes a handy scale sanding block.

Some glitters are made of metal coated plastic and will melt in some types of paint. It's best to get real metal flake like the stuff from "House of Kolor".

I've done the metal flake on many of my bodies, both lexan and polystyrene. It's a lot of work on a styrene body but well worth the effort with the effect you get.

It's very easy to do on lexan as you don't need to worry about bumps on the inside of the shell. Apply metal flake first, then the paint, then the backing colour to make it solid. The DF03MS in my avatar has 3 colours of metal flake in the paintjob.

Posted

Not sure whether its available in the PS paint range , but there is a Tamiya clearish silver metal flake in their TS range, and there's also the lame flake option (black with speckles of purple,green,gold etc). Not seen the former , but the lame flakes look a bit too big for a scale model to my eyes. Then again they are probably smaller than craft shop glitter would be.

Pactra do a silver (and gold) metal flake paint, but not in rattle cans..

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=21928

Tamiya Lame flake..

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=26466

Posted
this stuff works brilliantly. supposedly a polycarb paint but i used it over halfords paint on my balckfoot and gives it a right flip. I used the jade chameleon and i think they do a sapphire and a silver and a plain green as well
Posted

The difference between metallic and metal flake is in the metallic base that is added to make the metallic paint. It has a 'silvery' quality that will change the base colour of the paint. Yellows turn gold, reds turn pink, dark reds turn brownish, oranges turn bronze.

Because there is nothing added to the base colour when using metal flake, the colour stays more true to the real colour. So you can get that bright yellow, or bright red and still have the 'sparkle' metallic affect.

Be aware that a heavy application of metal flake will still change the base colour.

img20319_10022009021037_8.jpg

Bright yellow with a light dusting of metal flake on the DF03MS.

Posted

Parma Fascolor has a range of flake powders made to be added to their paint.

But since PS Lame Flake and now PS Pearl Clear came out... those cover 3/4 of most requirements

and avoid the need to 1, get a suitable airbrush for flake and 2, clean the ******s out properly each time

Posted
clean the ******s out properly each time

I'll attest to that! Horrid stuff to clean from the airbrush (or spraygun when doing it on a 1:1 car).

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