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Brushless Sand Scorcher/ Buggy Champ/ Rough Rider

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whats up guys just looking for a bit of help. I have been messing with the traxxas slash 4x4 for for some time now. So much i built my own trk and it is sweet. Just bought a buggy champ and want to put a brushless system in it , its way to slow for me. It is by fare the coolest rc I have ever owned. If anyone has some pics of what the have done to modifey the gear case as well as coverting it to a slipper clutch it would be great thamks again happy holidays :)

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I have a Hobbywing 13T Ezrun system in my Sand Scorcher. No need to modify gear case only needed to file a slot on the edge of the plastic motor cover/retainer for the wires to come through. The Sand Scorcher is a hoot to drive with the extra speed. It can be a handful as the SRB is not the greatest handling chassis but that is what kinda makes it fun.

DSC04960.jpg

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I have a Hobbywing 13T Ezrun system in my Sand Scorcher. No need to modify gear case only needed to file a slot on the edge of the plastic motor cover/retainer for the wires to come through. The Sand Scorcher is a hoot to drive with the extra speed. It can be a handful as the SRB is not the greatest handling chassis but that is what kinda makes it fun.

DSC04960.jpg

thaks for the fast respones but what hold the motor from twisting . have you sean a df03 slipper clutch set up on one yet. how do your gears hold up with the set up you run.

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how do your gears hold up, also have you sean a df03 slipper clutch in one. and what holds the motro inplace

The motor is held in the same as the standard 540 with the pins in the motor housing, just a small mod to the clear plastic motor cover to let the wires come through. The gears have been holding up fine and I recently installed the ball diff. The Ezrun system has been set up with a low punch setting to make it easier to get the power down but a slipper would be better. Seeing I only use it for fun I won't worry about a slipper. I am actually getting it ready to run it on the beach when I go away on holidays in a couple of weeks. I am so looking forward to running the Scorcher on the sand rather than just in the dirt.

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thanks for the insight. just ordered the slipper clutch from the df03 dark night and the ball diff to boot. once again IM ALL IN. THANK AGAIN GUY FOR THE HELP.

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If your using the DF03 slipper you will need DF03 pitch gears not buggy champ. I think DF03 use 0.5 module.

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The DF03 uses 0.5mod gears. The Buggy Champ uses 0.6mod gears. The only company that makes 0.5mod gears is Tamiya. The 19T pinion is a vintage part and can be hard to find.

The DF03 slipper clutch is not a direct fit into the Buggy Champ SRB gearbox. You need to modify the slipper and the SRB mainshaft to make it fit. Note that the gearcover no longer will fit over the slipper spring and also needs to be cut and modified.

If you are fitting a tame brushless system (think EZ-Run), the standard SRB spur gear and a steel RW Racing 0.6mod pinion is sufficient to stop things from breaking.

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i've completed my biuld and it came out great. slipper in ball diff in and brushless tacon 3650kv rippin it up in the dirt. oh 2200 blue lipo from nitro rcx.com

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I have a Hobbywing 13T Ezrun system in my Sand Scorcher. No need to modify gear case only needed to file a slot on the edge of the plastic motor cover/retainer for the wires to come through. The Sand Scorcher is a hoot to drive with the extra speed. It can be a handful as the SRB is not the greatest handling chassis but that is what kinda makes it fun.

DSC04960.jpg

Hi, can you please tell me what the brakes are like on your Scorcher's Hobbywing ESC when used with your Hobbywing 13T motor which is in your Scorcher? Are they weak like on a Tamiya TEU101BK when used with a silver can (stock kit motor) in a Scorcher, or reasonable but still not very good like on a Tamiya TEU302BK ESC or a Futaba MC330CR (which is about 20 per cent worse than the 302 ESC) when used in a Scorcher with a silver can? Or are they very good indeed?

Is that Hobbywing ESC and motor combination in your Scorcher as pictured capable of locking the rear wheels under braking? What is the approximate braking distance when coming to a dead stop from say half throttle on Tarmac / pavement / concrete / hard packed dirt?

I'm thinking about going with LiPo and this Hobbywing ESC / motor combo in my Scorcher, it looks good so far.

Which charger do you use with your Scorcher's LiPo? Has the charger got any faults? Would you recommend it?

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Also while I'm at it, may I ask if this Hobbywing ESC in your Scorcher is one where you reverse by first moving the stick from throttle to reverse (brake) segment, then you have to put the stick back to neutral, then you pull back the second time to get the Scorcher to actually move backwards (so called "double tap", this is like on the Tamiya TEU101BK, TEU302BK and Futaba MC330CR ESC's), or is your ESC one where the car moves backwards straight away after it slows to a stop (or after a small preset delay) when you pull back on the stick just once from a partial throttle position on the transmitter stick?

I prefer the Tamiya 101&302 / Futaba 330 style.

If your Hobbywing ESC doesn't do the "double tap" style of reverse (1st style, as described above) by default, can you program it to do so?

Finally for now also what Transmitter are you using (brand, model, frequency)?

The info would be much appreciated!

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Just thought on also, how strong are the magnets on this Hobbywing 13T motor?

Compared to e.g. a Tamiya Technigold or Tamiya Super Stock RZ or a Mabuchi RS540SH ?

Cheers,

ARG

EDIT: I just read that mostly on brushless motors of 540 size you can't feel the notchy-ness of the magnets?! :) IS this right? Wierd ;-

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=258104

...so this has I presume no connection with how good the brakes are.

EDIT: OK I figured out that there are 3 coils (stator) and there is only one coil energised at a time, and when the motor is unpowered there is no power to the coils, so no magnetism, so therefore nothing to attract the 2 rotor magnet halves, so no lumpiness to the magnets when you turn the motor!

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One more question please if anyone reads this, can you use 6.6V 2S LiFe ( LiFePO4 , Lithium Iron Phosphate , A123 cells ) battery packs with this Hobbywing 35A Ezrun ESC with success? With this 13T Hobbywing motor?

Would like to use the LiFePo4 batteries if possible so I can charge them safely in the house (LiPo can be dangerous, because of the thermal runaway problem, they will even burn underwater LOL).

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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i've completed my biuld and it came out great. slipper in ball diff in and brushless tacon 3650kv rippin it up in the dirt. oh 2200 blue lipo from nitro rcx.com

Hi, the 3650 does not refer to how many RPM per volt it does, so it's not "3650kV" but refers to the size, i.e. 36mm diameter, 50mm long motor. There is not one Tacon 3650 motor, they do them in various kV ratings ;-

http://www.hobbypartz.com/tamosa.html

...may I ask which kV rating your motor is? You use this in a Sand Scorcher? Does it fit the Scorcher gearbox nicely or did you have to Dremel the gearcase to get the motor in? Can you keep the motor cover on (whilst cutting a slot in it for the wires) ? Which ESC are you using with it? How good are the brakes on this Scorcher / Tacon 3650 motor setup ?

Many Thanks for any info

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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may I ask if this Hobbywing ESC in your Scorcher is one where you reverse by first moving the stick from throttle to reverse (brake) segment, then you have to put the stick back to neutral, then you pull back the second time to get the Scorcher to actually move backwards (so called "double tap", this is like on the Tamiya TEU101BK, TEU302BK and Futaba MC330CR ESC's), or is your ESC one where the car moves backwards straight away after it slows to a stop (or after a small preset delay) when you pull back on the stick just once from a partial throttle position on the transmitter stick?

I prefer the Tamiya 101&302 / Futaba 330 style.

If your Hobbywing ESC doesn't do the "double tap" style of reverse (1st style, as described above) by default, can you program it to do so?

Came across this post again in a search for ESC's and thought I would add one of the answers myself seeing as how noone replied to me to help me...

http://www.hobbywing.com/upload/manual/hw-13-v2.pdf

The manual says this controller is of the "double-click" style, same as Tamiya 101/302/Futaba 330.

Would appreciate it very much if anyone can answer my other questions above as I am strongly thinking of ordering this ESC for my Scorcher. Best UK price I found so far was 32 quid with 3 quid delivery. Best price on Ebay from a decent HK seller is 24 quid and free delivery (or 15 quid plus 8 quid postage (so no VAT) from a dodgy HK seller!).

Finally is this the motor that you used Southy? http://www.giantcod.co.uk/ezrun-3000kv-bus...r-p-403299.html , I ask as I see it says on this seller's webpages that it's got a 15mm long output shaft. I was thinking that because of that you wouldn't be able to put the gear cover back on. However, an RS540S motor has a bearing and a 10mm or so shaft sticking out of the bearing anyway so I assume that it ends up the same as with a 540S i.e. that you can still fit the gear cover on!

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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In addition to my other questions above (that I would really appreciate an answer to) can I ask please how tall the EZRun 35A ESC is that you are using Southy? In case I decide to fit a different brushless ESC to the radio box of my Scorcher?

EDIT: OK I just found out from an Ebay page that the dimensions of the EZRun 35A SL V2 ESC are ;- 31.5mm wide (excluding left and right "shelf" projections with wires soldered onto them) and 40mm wide including left and right "shelves"/ "shoulders" x 27.5mm deep x 24mm high (without fan) and 31mm high with fan.

I just found a 35A SENSORED ESC for 23 USD from HobbyKing that I have been told has no interference with 27MHz radios (unlike their 30A and 60A "Quick" car sensorless ones which have bad interference on 27MHz radios so I read), so I might try one of those, but it's new and I want to know if it's "DOUBLE-CLICK" for reverse (seems to have become the industry standard term for it now) and whether it's waterproof, whether I can use it with LiFE batteries, whether it has 2.6V cut off for LiFE, how good the brakes are with a 13T sensored motor in the Scorcher / SRB, whether I can get a 13T sensored motor cheap and fit it into the gearcase with no problems and also get the motor cover and gear covers back on (don't mind cutting a slot for the wires), etc. And where I can download a user manual from for it!

Apparently the 35A sensored ESC from HobbyKing is 27x31x34mm, where I understand that the 34mm is the height including the rather thick section fan, I'll have to go and check my Scorcher's original (well re-re LOL) style radio box to see if it would fit where Southy has put it.

OK I just checked my re-re SS2010 / BC2009 radio box and there is a 37.5mm absolute maximum height for the ESC and fan combination in there as best as I can see, where 0.5mm is allowed in addition for double sided tape (servo tape is nearer 1mm normally I think). So the 34mm high HK 35A sensored ESC and fan combo should fit in there nicely even with 1mm servo tape under it (or you could get away with Velcro of 1.5mm per hooks / loops half, just about, so you can swap the ESC between models).

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Has anyone ever used an approximately 13T or higher SENSORED brushless motor in the Sand Scorcher 2010 / SRB gearcase, I need to know whether I can get a 13T sensored motor cheap that will fit it into the gearcase with no problems and also be able to get the motor cover and gear covers back on (don't mind cutting a slot for the wires), etc.

Cheers,

ARG

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Has anyone ever used an approximately 13T or higher SENSORED brushless motor in the Sand Scorcher 2010 / SRB gearcase, I need to know whether I can get a 13T sensored motor cheap that will fit it into the gearcase with no problems and also be able to get the motor cover and gear covers back on (don't mind cutting a slot for the wires), etc.

Cheers,

ARG

Hi ARG,

Going of all the posts that I have been following on here, not only this discussion but severall others most people end up running 13turn ezey runs.

As anything lower produces to much power for this particular buggy to handle. Suspention, gearing yahda, yahda!!

I personally only run the tamiya black can, about 19turns give or take! with a 16amp fett style speedo, gives me about 20+ mins with a nice turn of speed, with out having to worry about modifercations to gearboxs etc.

I may drope a 13turne into one of my SRBs at a later date just for the badword of it, we will see!!

I think LRP are putting out a warter proof or resistant speedo in there brushless range, cant remember where I read that.

Cheers

Shaun

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It makes me laugh when I see pictures of an SRB with LiPo and an ESC. I remember what it was like 30 years ago trying to stuff two servos, a battery, the receiver, the speed controller and a Rx battery pack in that box!

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I notice that most of the brushless motors now have a group of 3 tabs sticking up out of the side of the motor casing close to the endbell, and that it is designed to have the big thick motor wires soldered on here. But that would appear to make it's installation into an SRB gearcase very difficult or make things look ugly, and I am also worried about these tabs and/or the ends of the 3 motor wires shorting out against the metal gearcase :rolleyes:

I see that the EZRun sensorless brushless motors have no tabs to solder wires onto that are visible in the pictures that I have seen, only wires coming straight up vertically out of the side of the motor case near the endbell, which are all insulated ;-

http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=257

...and appears to be the ONLY motor that I have seen at the moment where you can retain the motor cover and gear cover on your Scorcher.

Unless someone knows of any SENSORED brushless motor that will fit the SRB gearcase and allow you to retain both motor and gear covers? :)

There is a guy who has fitted a sensored 8.5T "4000KV" "HobbyWing" motor to the Scorcher here ;-

and I asked him whether the motor cover was able to be retained, and he replied ;-

"I don't have a sensored motor but that's not important" (weird, the 4000KV is definitely the 8.5T 540 sized and core sized, sensored motor on the HW website, maybe the guy meant 13T (which would make it sensorless and 13T)?, I'll ask). "I didn't bother with the cover. Wasn't worth worrying about. When I was a Kid, we didn't have brushless power but we did however have machanical speed controls which allowed us (and we all did it LOL.) to smash it straight from full throttle forward to full throttle reverse or visa versa. Inevitably this broke things! One day my motor spun in the gearcase after shearing both lugs from the RHside case. To fix this I drilled through the case exactly where the lugs had been and installed bolts into the motor.

So . . . remembering this (after 28years), I simply drilled through just the one lug so that I could install one bolt hidden behind the spur gear. This is enough to pull the motor up, firmly seating it in the gearcase and still locating on the remaining lug. This means the plastic end case is not required. A sticker usually covers the bearing in the back of a brushless motor and I wrapped a small amount of insulation tape around the motor right where the cover would meet the gear case so that it would be snug and not allow sand to enter the gearbox. This set up if flawless, neat and simple (just drill one hole). BTW, I did add a little Sho goo where the wires come out of the motor case because I know sand/dirt gets inside the HW motors easily. Russell."

I asked the guy whether he meant a 3000KV (and thus 13T, sensorless motor) and got this reply (!) ;-

"Here's one we've prepared earlier... This link shows an example of the system I have -"

(Ebay description "EZRUN-HOBBYWING-8-5T-BRUSHLESS-60A-4000KV-MOTOR-COMBO" as live links to Ebay items are not permitted on TC) "I could have cut the motor cover possibley but the length and shape of the motor can may not suit and what I have done is very neat and easy."

The motor on that Ebay auction page has "HobbyWing 4000KV EZRUN 8.5T Victor(y?)" written on the side of the can and the ESC is the sensorless 60A one. Seller describes the motor as sensorless. Yet the HobbyWing web page says 4000KV motor is the sensored one. But then again the HW webpage may be out of date I suppose. So I have to assume that this particular motor that he has and the one in this auction are sensorless.

EDIT: Seems that indeed there is a sensorless HW motor of 8.5T, it is model 8.5T/SL-3650, search Ebay for "Hobbywing eZRun 8.5T/4000Kv 3650 motor". 3650 refers to the can size (36mm diameter, 50mm long). My confusion was because there is also another version of the motor which is sensored (search for Ebay item "Hobbywing Xerun 8.5T 4000kv Sensored motor")...

I don't want to go with brushed motors anymore in custom models if I can since I hate maintainance and brush and commutator wear and I haven't got a motor lathe and am reluctant to spend money on one, and I can't dismantle the Sport Tuned motor for maintenance (or the RS540S) as they are just about sealed for life.

Also I want to go with brushless because of the much better brakes available for heavy buggies like the SRB (since the ESC's with brushed motors only short out the armature for the brakes and the thing can't slow down quick enough) and I like the long run times due to significantly higher efficiency of the motors and I am going to be using LiFE / LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) since I don't like the thermal runaway issues with Lipo if I accidentally set the wrong settings on my charger.

I had an MRC 969 charger and they screwed me over it (couldn't even do standard modern Lipo safely when it said it was Lithium battery compatible), and I was a month or so over the limit for their exchange program, so I changed recently to using a HobbyKing HKC6 charger which has a dedicated LiFE setting and remembers that it is set to LiFE when you power it back on from being unpowered. I am powering the new charger from my 969's PSU LOL (I wired up a female Deans onto the 2 bare tinned wires of the PSU and then a male Deans onto good sized cable and into a 5.5 x 2.5mm DC power connector off Ebay that was easy to solder and fits the HKC6 perfectly) and it works great every time with NiMH on the NiMH dedicated setting (I altered the delta peak to suit my purposes). Not tried any LiFE batteries yet though. Just sick of my NiMH's loosing half their capacity in a year so I wanna try this new fangled LiFE stuff!

BTW here is a video I found of a Scorcher that is using the "EZ-RUN , MOTOR 13T, ESC 60A, BRUSHLESS SENSORLESS" with the "70T main gear", note that the green one of the two is using a Super Champ rear set up ;-

, the guy says "The motor in perfectly fitted inside the metal gear box and I add little bit of silicone too on the plastic covers (motor and main gear covers). Is important to install the right motor with right diameter". Also this video from the same guy is using the same motor / ESC ;-
.

I can see here that this same guy uses 27MHz AM with the EZRun with no problems (check out the receiver!) ;-

. Pity that his camera is a Casio EX-F1 high speed (for slow motion) one that is bulky and heavy and expensive. When they build the slow motion feature into the compact Casio's and they are as thin as my own 22mm thick Casio EX-Z750 then I'll get one...

Also TC member TheOtherRacingGreen uses a 40MHz FM in a brushless Scorcher with his EZrun brushless 13T motor / ESC, here ;- http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=97332 (see parts 1 through 4)

What annoys me about these ESC's with fans is the horrific whining fan noise from the poor quality fan ;-

...so maybe I'll try a 60A ESC with the fan disabled on it, and maybe outside the radio box on a Twinset style chassis, but in which case the ESC would have to be virtually waterproof...

EDIT: After my Turnigy 35A Car ESC has arrived and looking at the manual I see that it says that it's waterproof and dustproof.

PS Handy Hint - I finally found a LiFePo4 battery pack suitable for the Scorcher's radio box, search Ebay for "A123 6.6V", they are available in only 1 practical configuration, as 2300mAh, 2 cells side by side, from a Chinese seller, for 16 quid delivered! I asked the seller for the dimensions of the pack and they said "For this pack,it is made of A123 26650 cells, the dimension is : (diameter) 26mm x (height) 65mm, we weld the cells in A2 configuration and then connect wires and wrap the heat shrink and red tape. Best regards, Ray (sz_ohmygod)".

[later EDIT: Oh darn. Looks like I may have been mislead about this. This page mentions that this pack is 28mm diameter ;-

http://www.rclipos.com/A123_Packs.htm

...and so will NOT fit the SRB radio box without crushing the pack a little, 26mm would fit nicely but I tested and 28mm height cells would not fit into the radio box in the configuration of being lying across the radio box, like an old Tamiya hump pack, without either the lid being not quite closed properly, or crushing the pack slightly.

HobbyKing's website even shows it as being 30mm diameter / height! ;-

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_..._JR_Deans_.html

Note that Tamiya's A123 packs shown here ;-

http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-55105-l...p-90013406.html

...Tamiya item 55105, is a different size, and fits SRB radio box as it's recommended by Tamiya themselves for use in the Sand Scorcher. It's a meager 1100mAh!!! Also expensive at 63 USD! An expensive joke, because at a fairly low to moderate sustained 15A load with a small-ish motor like the 380 can sized Hobbywing 13T 3000kV (and this exact motor can draw 50A on peaks so I saw on a Novak Sentry data logger) then this battery would last 4 minutes !!!! A cheaper equivalent is shown above on that rclipos website, item code AR18650-2S1PF, it's less than 1/2 the price!

You can't put the A123 battery of 26650 cell code and 2300mAh capacity from HobbyKing above in the SRB radio box length ways as ironically it's too long at 70mm, and you can only fit about 62mm at the very most in length in there, infront of where I plan to put the brushless ESC (same place as Southy is putting it, as is dictated by the length of motor and ESC cables on the Hobbywing 35A SL ESC and also the Turnigy 35A Car SL ESC, as the ESC cables are it seems the same length on both ESC's, and the motor cables on the Hobbywing 13T are the same length it seems as on my Keda C40/13T 3000kV motor, I can tell since my Keda motor and Turnigy ESC fits the radio box exactly the same as Southy's does above in that picture in post #2 in this topic). The restriction in length is caused by the position of the steering servo and linkage when on left steering lock! And there is only 31mm width between steering servo linkage and the left ledge of the radio box, plus there are motor cables sticking through the bottom of the radio box and winding around to the ESC which makes it impossible to fit the A123 26650 battery in length ways!

The larger Tamiya LiFe one (which doesn't fit SRB radio box as it's too long) is shown here ;-

http://www.etamiya.com/shop/search-p-90007404.html

BTW Here is the info. for the larger Tamiya 55102 pack ;-

Tamiya LiFe NanoPhosphate (A123) Racing Pack (p/n: 55102)

- Shape: Sub-C size hard case

- Cell Configuration: 2S2P

- Charge Connector: Deans Ultra Plug

- Balancing Connector: PolyQuest type 3 pin (Connection adaptor needed to be used for JST XH/Align tap)

- Voltage: 6.6V

- Capacity: 2200 mAh

- Approximately 1000 recharging cycles

- Max charging current: 8.8A (4C rate)

- Recommended charging current: 4A (2C rate) (to reduce the load for the charger & battery)

- Charge ONLY with A123 compatible charger. Do NOT use LiPo/NiCd/NiMH charger as this will damage the battery

- Dimensions: 134x45.5x23 mm

- Weight: 200g (approximately half of a Tamiya Ni-MH Battery 7.2V 3700mAh Advanced Pack 3700HV)

- A connection adaptor (Deans to Tamiya) is included for use with Tamiya speed controllers

- Tamiya instruction sheet & box is included

- Manufacturer: Enerland (a subsidiary of A123 Systems)

- Made in Korea

(it's also interesting to look at the info. on these A123 cells provided here - scroll down for scans of Enerland datasheets ;-

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/electronics...l-question.html

BTW LiPo batteries that will fit the SRB radio box can be found by searching Ebay with "search in description" (advanced search) for first "101", then 102,103,104,105,106 as width, along with "7.4V" and "Lipo" and /or "2s", this brings up Lipo's like Southy's above, and which are about 2200mAh and cost about 8GBP including delivery!

OK Just finally found 2 LiFE batteries that will fit the SRB radio box, the Hobbico 2100mAh ;-

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...LXYAS9&P=ML

...and a very similar 6.6v LiFePo4 battery from Poweredge ;-

http://www.rcaccessory.com/pe21002sLIFE.aspx

..."PowerEdge Lithium Solutions LiFe 2100mah 6.6V (2S) 20C RX battery. Includes 2 universal 20 AWG silicone battery leads and a set of 14 AWG silicone wires factory installed.

Specifications:

Charge Rate: Up to 5C. 5C Charge rate MUST be done through the 14 AWG silicone wiring.

Pack Weight: 3.9 Ounces including connectors

Wire Gauge: 22 AWG x 2 and 14 AWG silicone wiring

Pack Size: 12mm x 45mm x 106mm

Balance Connector: JST XH - Align Style

New! PowerEdge 2100mAh LiFe RX battery. Super lightweight, high energy density makes LiFe the ultimate in RX battery chemistry. Voltage regulators are NOT needed with LiFe batteries. Only charge with LiFe compatible charger.

The PowerEdge 2100mAh battery has 2 factory installed 20 AWG silicone universal battery leads and 14 AWG silicone wiring factory installed. Both universal battery leads can be used to the RX via a switch (5 amp rated switch required) or the 2nd battery lead can be used for charging. Use the 14 AWG silicone wiring for High Amp charging or to connect to a power distribution system or RX capable of this connection, ie Spektrum

Additional Information

http://www.PowerEdgeRC.com"

...so fits SRB radio box just fine, but a little pricey at 30 USD, and out of stock. On Ebay for 18 GBP and a tenner delivery from USA. Slightly over the 15 GBP import limit, so may be VAT'ed on it (plus RMPF clearance fee).

I would need to solder XT Deans (T connector) onto the two unterminated 14AWG wires, for charge / discharge.

See ;- http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=62724

Also beware that the maximum practical battery length for the SRB radio box, if you want to surround the battery with 5 to 6mm of foam to stop a soft LiPo pack from being damaged (which can be very dangerous) is about 111mm max. ]

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Just wondering if a brushless motor with with wires coming out the back instead of the side will help in making a simpler modification to the plastic case. :rolleyes:

...

The DF03 slipper clutch is not a direct fit into the Buggy Champ SRB gearbox. You need to modify the slipper and the SRB mainshaft to make it fit. Note that the gearcover no longer will fit over the slipper spring and also needs to be cut and modified.

...

TA-Mark

Could you post a pic of your modified gear case? Cheers.

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