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mutationracer

Brushless Sand Scorcher/ Buggy Champ/ Rough Rider

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It makes me laugh when I see pictures of an SRB with LiPo and an ESC. I remember what it was like 30 years ago trying to stuff two servos, a battery, the receiver, the speed controller and a Rx battery pack in that box!

So true!!! I totally forgot about the receiver battery packs!

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I didnt fit a brushless to mine, but I did fit a Traxxas VXL-3 esc with the std can. I run 3s 2200mah 40c lipo's in it with the speed gears. Gets up and goes very well now.

I also did the same with my wifes Brat. She fitted the speed gears and the **** thing steps out sidewards on the road when you cruise past at half throttle then give it full. Has some insain speed on the sand as well.

Get good run times from the 2200mah lipos. Makes us both smile when we run them.

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I didnt fit a brushless to mine, but I did fit a Traxxas VXL-3 esc with the std can. I run 3s 2200mah 40c lipo's in it with the speed gears. Gets up and goes very well now.

Out of interest, what are the brakes like when using that Traxxas VXL-3 in your Scorcher?

Also, has it got "DOUBLE-CLICK" for reverse (see earlier page) ?

The brakes on my Tamiya 101 and Carson Eco 27 are terrible when used with the King BlackFoot for example, but the Futaba 330 is a lot better and the Tamiya 302 is better still, but only just acceptable to me. Still not all that good. I want powerful brakes!

Cheers,

ARG

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The thought occurred to me that if I drill 4 holes in my Twinset / Junfac chassis and tie wrap the EZRun ESC down, UPSIDE DOWN, to the chassis plate, without the fan, making the heatsink contact the chassis, then that would surely provide well enough cooling for the ESC :) (provided that the ESC will still work without the fan ? :unsure: ). That would allow me to use the fan without the fan noise that I find so irritating from the poor quality fan that screams in these things. Unless I replace the fan with a nice silent, quality one (anyone know of one?).

OK so the ESC's heatsink would only then be touching by the ends of it's fins but maybe that would be enough, also considering that the ESC would then be in the airflow due to the movement of car plus breeze (not being enclosed inside an insulated sealed radio box!). Also I have checked the pictures for the EZRun 35A ESC and it seems like there is nothing in the way of doing this, i.e. the receiver connector and switch connector etc. are lower in height than the heatsink fins ends, and I can surely bend the 5 thick power wires out of the way sufficiently?

I still don't understand why the ESC needs a fan anway when e.g. my Novak GTX doesn't need one and that was a racing ESC which could pass a lot more current and was even smaller!

I just read at http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/%...FCAR%5FESC.html that the fan on this style of ESC can easily get ruined with debris and sand in it, so maybe it's a good idea to install the ESC in the radio box if you are using a fan to keep the sand and dirt out of it instead of just having the ESC servo taped down to the chassis. Also on that same web page it says that the Turnigy 35A brushless sensoreless ESC can be used WITHOUT the fan :) which suits me just fine.

BTW the EZRun 35A ESC has a plastic lower case, then a PCB with the control IC's on the lower side of it, then on the top of the PCB are the 18 or so FET's and the Aluminium heatsink which contacts the FET's on top of that, then the fan.

I thought about using a 60A ESC in the radio box without a fan, (wouldn't like to try it with a 35A ESC) but the Turnigy TrackStar 60A one wasn't sealed and looked not even water resistant, the Quik 60A is said to interfere on 27MHz AM making it unusable on those radios, the Scanner 80A ESC is horrible quality I read, the HobbyKing 100A has a firmware problem that shuts down the ESC at full throttle (reason unclear, maybe radio related), the Scanner 150A is not sealed and looks like it's not even water resistant, the HobbyKing 80A sensored one is too tall for use in the radio box, the HobbyKing 60A sensored one is also too tall for the radio box, and the HobbyKing 120A sensored is too tall for the radio box.

EDIT: After looking at my manual for the Turnigy 35A Car ESC (60A version has same manual) the dimensions are the same for both, so I would be able to fit 60A ESC into radio box with the fan if I wanted to.

The HobbyKing 35A sensored one has no user manual online that I can find and no one seems to know anything much about it even the people who have them and sell them! The Turnigy 60A ESC looks good (looks like a clone of the HobbyWing 60A).

I just found where one guy replaced his EZRun fan (but on the 60A ESC not the 35A one) with an Evercool 25mm 12V 3-pin, looks like for PC use type fan, model EC2510M12EA that is near silent compared to his noisy original fan ;- http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/110419-e...an-replacement/, so maybe I can use it in the radio box with a fan without the annoying fan noise after all! The guy says it was an easy job to do and you just use the red and black wires and not the yellow one.

I just bought this exact model of fan for replacing the one on any EZRun or Turnigy 35A ESC (the latter also uses a 25mm square bodied fan).

EDIT: Looks like the fan on the 35A and 60A ESC is the same, as I just found on Ebay a replacement high speed / high voltage fan entitled "EZRUN 2507 15V 0.06A cooling fan 35A 60A" (24.5 x 24.5 x 10mm). So maybe I can get away with the cheaper 35A ESC and a replacement, but silent (not Hobby Wing!) fan.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Oh cack... MadInventor wrote here about the EZRun (60A I think?) ESC ;- http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=62870
"once you've used the brakes once, they then don't operate until you use the throttle again. After braking hard to slow up, I then couldn't stop the car completely and it rolled off a 5ft drop"

By this I take it to mean that ;- I live on a hill, and in the case of when I am using the Tamiya 302 or Futaba 330, the car will slow down whenever I pull back from from neutral into the brake zone, and if the car is still rolling when I put the stick back to neutral then if I pull back the stick into the brake zone once again then the car slows down again... because the wheels had not stopped yet (needs wheels stopped to reverse) at least that's what I remember mine doing (I have both of these 302 / 330 ESC's).

BUT... if I were to use an EZRun ESC then if I pull back once from neutral then the car slows down, but if the car is still rolling and I let the stick back to neutral then pull back again the car doesn't slow down anymore (and won't engage reverse since the wheels have to STOP before it allows reverse to engage according to the user manual) so it keeps on going down our hill <_<

Now that really sucks if true... <_<

******
later EDIT: Not on my bench test of my new Turnigy 35A Car ESC with V2 firmware, it holds brakes on (proportional) until you let stick back to within about 15 per cent off neutral, and if you pull back stick multiple times, without letting stick back to neutral, brakes are still firmly ON. Tested by pulling on Spur gear with my thumb to try and rotate it with brakes held on on transmitter!

When I put this Turnigy 35A Car ESC into my Scorcher chassis and put on some rear wheels and tyres and tried rolling it along, the brakes were held on firmly when you press backwards on the stick once and the brakes are proportional and they are quite strong but you can still turn the rear wheels if you pull the buggy forwards with the brakes still on. If you pull the chassis fowards to simulate the buggy rolling down the hill, and you hold the brakes on, then return the stick to neutral then pull back again, the buggy always can reverse strongly (reverse is proportional), despite a stutter sometimes for a fraction of a second as the back EMF is sensed.

BTW you have to pull the brakes on to FULL stick backwards then let it go to neutral BEFORE the car will reverse with this ESC. It won't reverse with only partial brakes being applied with the 1st pull back of the stick.

******

Maybe I'll have to stick to a Tamiya 302 (best brakes I have found so far on a reversible brushed ESC) and Sport Tuned afterall. But the darned thing isn't remotely waterproof... but I don't wanna end up with e.g. a Mtroniks tio Storm 19, yes it's completely waterproof but that only does LiPo and not LiFe like I wanted...but more importantly if it's anything like the Carson ECO 27 (which was a clone of an Mtroniks ESC) then it'll have either reverse delay (which I hate) or the car will jump backwards straight into something just before it comes to an actual stop (like my Novak Rooster did) which will break the rear cage. So I'll have to stick with the ESC with the best control so far (Tamiya TEU302BK) which means I'll be back to using hump pack of NiMH's LOL as I don't like the fire risk of LiPo, and this 302 ESC has no LiPo cut off! And I just happen to have a 302 and a Sport Tuned and a hump pack of 3700's so I might have to stick with what I've already been using.

This sucks LOL

I notice however that the sealed SRB radio box has side "ledges" that the ESC can sit on, and a lower part where the water would run to, and also the water would take a little while to fill to the level of the top of the ESC where the FET's are on the 302 ESC, so that's maybe waterproof enough for me for now.

EDIT: Reading on in the post above, it seems that altering trims or maybe which radio you use it with solves the problem with not being able to brake more than once on the EZRun 60A ESC? If anyone has a EZRun 60A ESC and can confirm that it can brake multiple times I would appreciate it. I might risk ordering the 35A one then.

Cheers,

ARG

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After reading that the Turnigy 35A sensorless brushless ESC from HobbyKing was just about identical to the HobbyWing 35A ESC, and seeing as how the latter was on Ebay for 15 quid plus 10 quid postage but the Turnigy from HK was 19 quid delivered, including free upgrade to EMS 6 day delivery (the "Royal Mail" option), I have ordered the Turnigy ESC. I hope to be able to order an EZRun 13T motor to go with it when I can afford it and also a LiFe (Lithium Ferrite) battery (I have the HKC6 charger which can handle LiFePo4 cells). All to go in my custom Scorcher.

I'll report back what it's like.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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can you plz send me the e bay link in PM ?

PM sent! Hope that helps! By the way, if you get either the EZRun 35A ESC or the Turnigy 35A ESC, I would appreciate it if you could answer the questions that I wanted to know about, since it's always a risk ordering these things if you can't even find a user manual for them online (like the Turnigy 35A ESC)...

Well it's nearly 2 days since I ordered my ESC and it hasn't even shipped yet. Also I can't use the Hobby King forum until 14 days after my first order, so I was told!

Cheers,

Alistair G. (Live_Steam_Mad on TC)

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I asked on the Hobby King discussion section of the Turnigy 35A sensorless brushless web page "Does this ESC use "DOUBLE CLICK" for reverse like e.g. the EZRun 35A uses and mentions in it's user manual (i.e. put stick back to neutral after braking, then pull back the second time to reverse, and car will only reverse when the wheels have totally stopped rotating and not when still rolling forwards slightly)"

...and got a reply from Sergei "When you pull back to brake the first time, it will brake. Then after the initial pull after you return to neutral, it will change to reverse. The ESC has no idea how fast the motor is spinning (it is sensorless) so it just hard coded to brake for the first pull and reverse for the second pull".

Oh dear, I didn't think of that. Yes, it senses only the back EMF from the motor, it has no optical sensor in the motor for rotations and no Hall Sensor for the magnet position of the armature. Oh well, I've ordered it already now so I'll report back what it's like when it arrives (I am waiting for the ESC to arrive first before I order a motor!). It hasn't been dispatched yet, after more than 2 (EDIT: now 3) whole working days. I don't believe their webpage stating that it is in stock, or maybe they mean it's in stock at their supplier :rolleyes:

later EDIT: Now I have tried my Turnigy 35A Car ESC after it arrived, it is definitely "double click" reverse, just like Tamiya TEU-101BK / Tamiya TEU-302BK ESC's and Futaba MC330CR ESC that I own.

However, TC member Backlash mentioned here ;-

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=62860

...that "sensored motors can be damaged quite easily if they get wet (sensor damage).."

...an I want to run on the beach, through puddles of sea (salt) water! I wonder if the damage is permanent?

UPDATE: my ESC has now been despatched by HK after 3 1/2 days so we'll see what it's like when it arrives.

Cheers,

ARG

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Well my Evercool "ESC fan" arrived and yep it's pretty darned quiet. Not vibration free but still very quiet. Tried it on 9V from 9V dry block PP3 battery and it was quiet but wouldn't always start up, about 30 per cent of the time just would not start. It turns out that it's simply because of the rather high internal resistance of the dry 9V battery. I tried it on 7.2V from NiMH 3700mAH hump pack and it always starts, same with 6V NiMH pack of 2000mAh.

On 6V it's just about inaudible in a domestic environment. On 7.2V or 6.6V LiFe it will be inaudible inside the radio box. Still has enough waft of cooling on 6V I feel. I just cut off the Molex connector and wired up the red and black to the battery, don't bother with the yellow wire. Now waiting on the Turnigy ESC to arrive with it's loud nasty cheap fan thatI heard on a youtube page, and I'll compare them, and maybe get up the courage to swap the fan over after after testing the ESC thoroughly.

Now need to consider a motor. I heard that 13T 380 core made SS uncontrollable at anywhere over half throttle ( http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...7&sid=13023 ) so I'm looking for a 17T ish sensored motor and then I can upgrade the ESC later on to sensored also. Would like it to be able to fit the SRB gearcase with no problems and still be able to retain the motor cover (don't mind cutting a slot in it).

In the meantime, found another TC member who managed to fit a Castle Creations Sidewinder 4600 ESC and motor kit and retained the motor cover http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...mp;#entry398161 ...but I think that's a sensorless motor and it's way more RPM than the 17T that I would choose now. Also notice how the guy had to dremel away part of the edge of the gearcase near the motor cover, which is not something that I would like if I can avoid it!

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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It seems at the moment that the only 2 cheap motor options in my price range are ;-

HobbyWing 13T 3650 sized (i.e. 380 core with fins) 3000kV sensoreless from HobbyKing for 28 USD plus 7 USD EMS delivery i.e. 18 quid plus delivery, which is 3 quid over the new 15 quid (down from 18 quid) limit for non-EU imports which comes into force in a couple of weeks time in November. So I might be VAT'ed plus the Royal Mail Parcel Farce Clearance Fee of 8.50 GBP http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/u...?idProduct=7190

...Or the maybe more sensible (in terms of performance) BulliStorm 17.5T (540 core, 3650 can sized) 1900kV Sensored brushless motor at 23 quid delivered from Ebay http://bullistorm.com/ ("Titanium 17.5T Sensored" or "Blue 17.5T Sensored") and VAT'ed and RMPFCF (8.50 quid), unless I can persuade an Ebay seller to list one at 15 quid plus 8 quid delivery LOL...Maybe the motor cover can't be retained with this one.

If anyone can show me any more 13+ turn brushless motors at this sort of price that fits the Scorcher gearcase then please let us know :) I don't know if the BulliStorm actually fits but from it's dimensions it should do?

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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When you order from hobbyking you can specify the % of the total shipment value you want declared on the paperwork, so easy to get under customs limits. Never been charged yet on hobbykingorders and ive had a few largish boxes of stuff and smaller packages (motors and rxs)

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Thanks for the advice on the customs fees.

BTW just found a video showing the power of the Turnigy 35A ESC that I just bought and is in transit to me, powering a Losi Strike (1/10 I think) SCT ;-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2doYQCQC24

...it has only 12T with a 380 rotor size and yet it is pulling wheelies, I am shocked.

Really starting to think more in terms of the 17T 1900kV motor for my Scorcher, now as I have seen that! If I have to file out a slot in the SRB gearcase to stop the wires from shorting in the metal gearcase then so be it I suppose.

EDIT: OH dear, it seems that I maybe can't run a Bullistorm Sensored motor with a my Turnigy sensorless 35A ESC because of the problem mentioned here ;-

http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122885

"I have 2 Bullistorm 8.5T motors but the problem is when i power them up they turn sooo slow! these are 4000Kv and the wires gets heated up soo bad and the motor even more! It feels like a short circuit in side the motors !", where the guy is using a Sensored Bullistorm motor with an EZRun i.e. sensorless ESC and one other guy has the same problem when he also used a Sensored Bullistorm motor with a sensoreless ESC and had to buy a sensored ESC to solve the problem and then the motor works without heat problems. I only wanted to get a Sensored motor for later on when I get a sensored ESC but looks like I can't now.

Also the problem of actually getting a sensorless ESC to start a high turn Sensored motor, here ;-

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-r...less-motor.html

So looks like I should get a sensorless BulliStorm 17.5T motor, as shown on the Bullistorm website above. It's 1900kV, so a mere 12,540 RPM (IS THAT AT NO LOAD?) :D or at maximum efficiency?) on 6.6V LiFe, 14,060 RPM on 7.4V LiPo, and is 36mm diameter, 52.5mm length, 3650 can sized (540 sized motor can, and full sized 13mm 540 sized, not 380 sized, rotor) and (consumes or develops?) 450W (2/3 Horsepower approx) maximum. They are 19 quid on Ebay with free delivery (I might be able to get a seller to list one at 15 GBP plus 4 delivery to avoid VAT!).

Or there is a 2400kV no-brand sensorless brushless motor on Ebay for 8 quid plus 16 quid delivery that is also in my price range. Yes I am a cheapskate. The RPM for that would be 15,840 RPM on 6.6V LiFe and 17,760 RPM for 7.4V LiPo.

EDIT: Just spotted a Leopard brand 17.5T apparently sensorless brushless motor of 1770KV (11,682 RPM on 6.6V LiFe, 13,098 RPM on 7.4V LiPo), 52.5mm can length, 35.8mm can diameter, 15mm shaft length with 3.17mm shaft diameter, 25.0mm hole spacing in front of can with 3.0mm holes. Price is 12.5 quid plus the same for postage (no buy it now, auction not ended yet). Maybe a little tame in the RPM stakes?

Versus the 380 core'd 13T which is 19,800 RPM with at 6.6V LiFe and 22,200 RPM with 7.4V LiPo.

So seeing as how I would like maybe 2/3 the speed of the 13T, I will most likely order the 17.5T Bullistorm or any other very cheap 1900kV 540 sized sensorless motor.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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I'm losing sight of what you're trying to achieve Alastair. To my mind you're better off with a basic silver can brushed motor than the 1900kV brushless. If you wanted a bit more speed then a sport tuned is more than enough. You seem to be intent in going brushless and yet you're more likely to have issues with low cost products than the tried n tested routes.

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I'm losing sight of what you're trying to achieve Alastair. To my mind you're better off with a basic silver can brushed motor than the 1900kV brushless. If you wanted a bit more speed then a sport tuned is more than enough. You seem to be intent in going brushless and yet you're more likely to have issues with low cost products than the tried n tested routes.

LOL It's how my mind works... certain things annoy me such as when I bought the Tamiya Super Stock RZ motor and used it for just a few runs, through the salt water of the beach at Ainsdale for example, and found that the brushes and especially the commutator had been badly damaged :)

Now I know I can buy a comm. lathe and skim the comm but things like that stick in the mind and annoy me, it's also like when I used the same motor at a track and found that it got incredibly hot on the smallest pinion (and my NiMH battery got rather hot too), which also annoyed me very much.

And I hated the way that I bought several NiMH packs only to find that their capacity had dropped severely only after a year and several cycles did not restore the capacity. Another thing that is pushing me to LiFe batteries...

I am attracted to the new brushless technology with it's promise of just about zero maintenance and very much higher efficiency and cool running and better, more exciting acceleration and more torque and so on.

Also I do NOT like the way that a conventional brushed motor / ESC shorts out the armature to brake the car to slow down, which does NOT slow the heavy trucks / metal buggies down anywhere near fast enough compared to a light buggy / touring car, even with my best reversible ESC's that I have (Tamiya TEU-302BK).

The brushless controller can have such powerful brakes that it can lock the wheels, so I'm told. Much better for a 2WD heavy chassis.

Also I like the lack of brush wear, not having to replace brushes and spend money on them, and I like the lack of radio noise from having no sparking from brushes.

I was just waiting until brushless became cheap enough to take a chance with it, and I wanted "double-click" (for reverse) ESC control. The HobbyWing EZRun and clones seem to have that.

Also it's something new and exciting to play with.

Performance has to be a little more lively than with a silver can, but not too much.

The above is just where I am mentally with what I want right now for my custom Scorcher. No way would I do that with a 1979 Scorcher LOL.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Today I trial fitted a spare ezrun motor into some spare web gearcases. Dropped straight in !. Looks like my SRB #4 will be a brushless monster. Will be defining the 9T motor somewhat though!

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Today I trial fitted a spare ezrun motor into some spare web gearcases. Dropped straight in !. Looks like my SRB #4 will be a brushless monster. Will be defining the 9T motor somewhat though!

Which EZRun (sensorless) motor was it? What is a "spare web gearcase" :) ?! What does "Will be defining the 9T motor somewhat though!" mean?

Sorry but I didn't understand.

ARG

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Which EZRun (sensorless) motor was it? What is a "spare web gearcase" :) ?! What does "Will be defining the 9T motor somewhat though!" mean?

Sorry but I didn't understand.

ARG

Sorry Alastair, the spell checker kicked into action; should have read de-tuned!

Ezrun 9T 4300kV motor

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Little bit of an update on that Hobby KING 35A Sensored & Sensorless ESC that I probably should have bought instead of the Turnigy 35A sensorless one, someone finally reviewed it and provided some information on it on the HobbyKing website... pity it was reviewed just AFTER I bought the Turnigy one but that's life...

Machine translation via Google from German ;-

"I tested the controller now extensively and can say that one well-controller can no longer find better for this price. Even in sensorless operation is felt virtually no cogging. And with the control sensor is incredibly sensitive. Brake is absolutely amazing and wonderful set. The controller can be programmed only the map. And that is wonderfully comfortable. 've Also tested some engines, and with each of the controllers went smoothly. These include LRP - Robitronic - HK Motors - Ezrun and Nosram. With a 2600kv motor, the controller is not even lukewarm."

More at ;- http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/%...rehouse%5F.html

(make sure to click on show "all reviews" / discussions at the bottom of the page in each tab if you wanna see what the opinions are!)

And another guy wrote "The correct manual is the manual listed for the hobbyking 100A sensored esc, in which this esc is described", in which case the manual is at ;-

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/u...8X516388X13.pdf

...it needs the programming card to make changes to the ESC operation (so the manual says) which is an optional extra. But the good part is that it does have a 2.6V / cell cut off capability for use with a LiFePo4 (6.6V) battery.

And it switches over from Sensored to sensorless control automatically if the Sensor wire is broken on the Sensored motor.

Also it is a reverse delay type, the delay is 2 seconds, BUT it requires 2 seconds of continuous neutral on the stick before reverse is engaged, otherwise it only brakes. Also it mentions a protection whereby the ESC will not allow the car to reverse if the car is still moving forwards. Sounds OK (so I can brake multiple times going down my hill that I live on and the car will not go into reverse at any time until the car stops completely. UNLESS it's like the cursed Novak Super Rooster ESC that went straight into reverse just before the wheels had stopped :) ).

[later EDIT: there is NO reverse delay on my Turnigy 35A Car ESC that I just got, the "double click" reverse works as fast as you can manipulate the TX stick!]

Also has 6V 2A BEC and can use >13.5T motors. Later on I might give this ESC a try.

BTW found a very interesting video showing an ESC first without the Sensor cable on the Sensored motor and then with the Sensor cable connected. The startup seems to be as abrupt in either mode LOL. So much for controllability. I thought that because the brushless motors had absolutely zero magnetic lumpiness (due in brushed motors to the coils being wound round a laminated ferrite core which attracts it to the 2 magnets in distinct positions) that the startup, at least on sensored motors, would be super smooth?! :P How come this is apparently not so ? :D Or is it merely the guy in the video not being smooth on the throttle (probably using a wheel / trigger radio LOL).

[later EDIT: on my Turnigy 35A Car ESC that I just got, reverse is proportional and starts soft and slow (2100 RPM minimum), but forwards doesn't start from very slow, only from 7950 RPM minimum when timing is set at zero degrees. Next is to get some wheels and tyres on chassis (Scorcher) and see how it goes, since it will be different then.]

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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I just found that Rulok has installed an 8.5T EZRun sensorless 4000kV motor into his SS2010 ;-

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=103041#

...so I sent a message asking for details like was there any dremelling involved LOL. I like the idea of putting the 17.5T sensorless 1900kV HobbyWing EZRun motor into my own SS2010 gearcase.

I was thinking also that if I do decide to go for the neat option of just using the HobbyWing sensorless 13T motor (fins with 380 core, 3650 sized) which retains the motor cover and has no filing or dremelling involved, that maybe I could callibrate the ESC on 100 per cent or 120 per cent ATV on the throttle and simply turn down the ATV on my Futaba T6XS radio to like 60 per cent throttle when in use and then I would not have the problem of it being uncontrollable at above 1/2 throttle, I wonder how practical that solution is? <_< T6XS can use separate ATV for throttle and brake (reverse), so full brake force should still be available.

[later EDIT: Yes, the T6XS can callibrate the ESC at 100 per cent ATV for both forwards and reverse, and then turning down both fwds and rev to only 65 per cent ATV makes the ESC turn the motor at only 21,000 RPM max., but this is somewhat non-linear it seems, (even though EXPonent was turned off on my TX on throttle channel 3) since at 100 per cent ATV, RPM is 25,200 (1.2 of the value, and 21000 RPM is 80 per cent of 25,200 RPM, not 65 per cent).]

And it's going to be 12 per cent slower on a LiFe battery anyway LOL.

Cheers,

ARG

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OK Rulok replied and was very helpful ;-

"There was no need to remove the two pins or to dremel the gearcase out, I only made two holes so I could bolt the motor to the gearcase. When the motorcover is not used you have to bolt the motor to the gearcase.

With the EZrun 8.5 there was no need to dremel the gearcase for the 3 motor connections. It is a tight fit but I have about 1 mm space left between the gearcase and the three connectors.

I did not use the motorcover because I had to adapt the cover to much to make it fit. I used some silicone between the motor and the gearcase just to keep water and sand out.

I have enclosed four pictures so you can see how it was done.

Btw, in my showroom you can find a how to guide to install a slipperclutch in a Sand Scorcher.

Good luck with installing your brushless motor, you get more power and longer driving times. In my case I can tell you that a 8.5 brushless motor is fun but much to much power for a Sand Scorcher. Concerning the motorpinion my advise is always use a steel one and never a pinion of aluminium."

Cool info :D

Lovely pictures too from Rulok, what a diamond geezer (see below for attached pic's).

However the difficulty of drilling the 2 holes for the motor is something to be considered, as it is presumably very tricky to get them in the correct places as the motor cannot be used as a jig (template) to mark out the 2 holes unless you dismantle the motor (easy in a brushed modified motor, not sure how I feel about taking a brand new brushless motor to pieces). As a result I think I'm gonna order the 13T 380 cored motor instead where I retain the motor cover and not have to drill or modify anything at all...

EDIT: the thought just occurred that I could mark out for the 2 holes for the 17.5T brushless motor using the front of the can of a brushed modified motor?!

EDIT #2: I just worked out why Rulok countersunk at least the screw nearest the rear of the gearcase, it's so you can retain the gearcover!

Cheers,

Alistair G.

post-6936-1319680394_thumb.jpg

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Alastair, when I test fitted my ezrun 9T I just used the normal two raised holes on the gearcases that hold the gear cover in place. These are used for brushed motors. When I do eventually build mine up I will use the motor cover and just file a slot for the wires to come brought as others have done.

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