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Brushless Sand Scorcher/ Buggy Champ/ Rough Rider

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I've ordered a DF-03 slipper clutch set and 23T pinion gear from Japan, will trial fit that with my EZRun 9T motor, although i think i'm going to need need to buy 82T spur and 19T pinion to get the gearing better.

Undecided whether to go with a diff yet - opinions ?

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I've ordered a DF-03 slipper clutch set and 23T pinion gear from Japan, will trial fit that with my EZRun 9T motor, although i think i'm going to need need to buy 82T spur and 19T pinion to get the gearing better.

Undecided whether to go with a diff yet - opinions ?

Ball diff. makes a positive difference to the handling even on a beach I think I remember reading. Geared diff. could maybe be made to work as long as very thick grease is used? Like Tamiya's Anti-Wear Grease! TA-Mark did a guide on how to make the geared diff for SRB's.

19/82 is 4.3:1 instead of 4.66:1 that the stock gearing of 70/15 is. So less torque and more speed, not really what you want with a 380 sized rotor, and a TC member said that the 65/20 gearing makes the 380 core'd brushless motor hot, if I remember right.

I'm still waiting for my Turnigy ESC to arrive but at least after 14 days I now have access to the Hobby King forums LOL.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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I looked at Twinsets gear diff mod and decided it wasn't worth attempting without the correct tools (lathe etc).

Today i've ordered a ball diff and a 82T spur gear - i'm holding off buying the 18/19T pinions as i have a hunch that i bought these a while back in error, and they are just sitting in a spares box somewhere !

So on route i now have the DF03 slipper clutch set, the SRB ball diff and a 82T spur gear.

Hopefully that is enough !

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I looked at Twinsets gear diff mod and decided it wasn't worth attempting without the correct tools (lathe etc)

? I thought TA-Mark did that geared diff mod, unless my memory is wrong?

EDIT: Found TA-Mark's showroom entry at ;- http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?c...3&sid=20319

Is there another home made SRB geared diff that I am not aware of?

BTW my Turnigy ESC hasn't turned up yet, 3 weeks after it was shipped. There is still no tracking number for it from the HobbyKing website, and it was supposed to be delivered within 6 days at the longest (I paid slightly more for the quick delivery). They told me to contact my local delivery office (Royal Mail Sorting Office St.Helens) and there were no parcels waiting there for me, then they also told me to contact UK Customs (!) so I did by e-mail and Customs wrote back and said that there was no way they could find out whether there was an item of mine waiting to be processed through Customs, and that that was the responsibility of the UK Border Agency (!) so I told the Live Customer Service person at HobbyKing all of this and they are now checking with Hong Kong post for any trace of my parcel (how do they do that without a tracking number?!) and then finally AFTER 46 days it is considered by HK to be a lost parcel (read their Terms and Conditions!) and then they won't refund me but they might send me another ESC (I wonder whether I'll have to pay AGAIN for postage?!).

So looks like I won't be going brushless for a while on my Scorcher!

In the meantime I noticed that when I built my Scorcher gearbox that my Robinson Racing Pinion (1116, 16T hardened Steel, 0.6 Module, Metric) that I dug out (I think it was for my Top Force from memory?) was a very tight mesh with my 70T pinion and the gearbox sounded awful until I suddenly remembered that I need a 15T not a 16T doah :o so I am currently ordering a 15T RRP #1115 for it.

Finally I also noticed that my Spur gear was running with a wobble which annoyed me and it was catching slightly on the metal of the gearbox near the motor so I found a piece of 6 or 7mm O.D. hard plastic tube with 4mm inside diameter and then I enlarged it's inside diameter with a 4.5mm and then a 5mm drill whilst clamping the tube in my small table vice with non-serrated jaws (in the latter stages with the drill in it at the time to prevent it collapsing due to it's small wall thickness), and drilled it out with a cordless drill to 5mm ID.

Then I took a razor saw to it with a very thin blade and cut a slice of it to 2mm thickness and then tried it between the Spur gear and the gearcase, acting as a spacer, and hey presto the awful amount of play in the top shaft was gone but the gearbox was tight so I filed it down in stages until I hit 1.5mm thick and then it was perfect and the gear wobbled less and the gear teeth of the Spur didn't catch on anything anymore and stopped making such horrid noises. I tried it with a 1.5V AA sized dry cell and a 1.2V NiMH AA cell and it works fairly smoothly and with almost zero resistance (if still a little noisy for my liking), so at least that part is sorted out.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Sorry Alastair - you are quite corrcet, it was TA-Mark, so no other mod thread anywhere

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I looked at Twinsets gear diff mod and decided it wasn't worth attempting without the correct tools (lathe etc).

Today i've ordered a ball diff and a 82T spur gear - i'm holding off buying the 18/19T pinions as i have a hunch that i bought these a while back in error, and they are just sitting in a spares box somewhere !

So on route i now have the DF03 slipper clutch set, the SRB ball diff and a 82T spur gear.

Hopefully that is enough !

Hi there Percymon,

So is your SRB brushless setup complete, installed and running lovely...?

Let us know when it is... I'd like to do the same eventually, what's your total costs so far, I'm worried its a little too expensive..

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Still waiting on ball diff and slipper to arrive from far east. Found some 3mm ceramic diff balls for £7 delivered.

Total cost so far is nothing much more than the gearbox parts as rest is coming out of a box of spares i got and have so far managed one srb from and this the second.

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Think I have found another decent motor candidate for my Scorcher, and after having read that 3000kV was uncontrollable at anywhere over half throttle on a Scorcher, now this one seems maybe a little tame? But nevertheless... It was a motor in Stulec52's showroom entry ;-

http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=111358&id=2

http://tamiyaclub.com/pictureframe.asp?t=n...011190810_4.jpg

I sent a message to Stulec52 and he said that he didn't know much about it and they were obtained as a job lot by his local club I think. So I looked on the ORCA website ;-

http://www.orcarc.com/en/index.asp

...and there were two e-mail contact addresses, neither of which were for the actual company itself, I sent a message to the World distributer for them and was ignored, and sent a message to their USA distributor and got this reply ;-

"If you join the group TeamORCA USA on Facebook, you will be able to find some picture posted at there regarding the Spark ESC combo. The 2200kV motor is a 380 motor in a 540 sized can. It is similar to a Mabuchi Silver can (can use the same gear ratio). There will also be a 3300kV motor combo set - 50% faster. www.muchhobby.com will have stock very soon on both.

With best regards,

Hans Tang

TeamORCA USA

hans.tang@teamorcausa.com"

I had a look on the MuchHobby website but all I saw was the 3300kV motor which is too fast and looks just like the HobbyWing motor, so they are probably OEM HW, but HW don't do a 2200kV motor in a 3650 size can with a 380 sized rotor as far as I know, which is odd.

The facebook links seem to be ;-

http://www.facebook.com/groups/teamorcausa/

http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=209396768840

In the meantime, my Turnigy ESC from HobbyKing is missing presumed stolen. HobbyKing don't want to help me, I tried their Customer Services many times and they are useless in this matter. HK will NOT replace OR refund your parcel if it was returned to them for whatever reason (it's in their small print in their Terms and Conditions), and they wait 46 days before contacting Hong Kong Post and Royal Mail (some use that will be! NOT) and then eventually after a lengthy investigation you MIGHT be sent a replacement ESC. What a joke HobbyKing is. Don't think I'll ever be ordering from them again. Thankfully I used a UK seller for my HK charger.

I wonder if the ORCA 2200kV motor is more like a silver can or a Sport Tuned in a Scorcher? I suppose I really need a 2600kV 380 rotor in a 540 can, that would be ideal.

The one risk with the ORCA motor is whether it fits the re-re Scorcher gearcase that I am using, but since it would appear to be a HobbyWing motor (that does fit) then I think it would be just fine.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Think I have found another decent motor candidate for my Scorcher, and after having read that 3000kV was uncontrollable at anywhere over half throttle on a Scorcher, now this one seems maybe a little tame? But nevertheless... It was a motor in Stulec52's showroom entry ;-

http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=111358&id=2

http://tamiyaclub.com/pictureframe.asp?t=n...011190810_4.jpg

I sent a message to the guy and he said that he didn't know much about it and they were obtained as a job lot by his local club I think. So I looked on the ORCA website ;-

http://www.orcarc.com/en/index.asp

...and there were two e-mail contact addresses, neither of which were for the actual company itself, I sent a message to the World distributer for them and was ignored, and sent a message to their USA distributor and got this reply ;-

"If you join the group TeamORCA USA on Facebook, you will be able to find some picture posted at there regarding the Spark ESC combo. The 2200kV motor is a 380 motor in a 540 sized can. It is similar to a Mabuchi Silver can (can use the same gear ratio). There will also be a 3300kV motor combo set - 50% faster. www.muchhobby.com will have stock very soon on both.

With best regards,

Hans Tang

TeamORCA USA

hans.tang@teamorcausa.com"

I had a look on the MuchHobby website but all I saw was the 3300kV motor which is too fast and looks just like the HobbyWing motor, so they are probably OEM HW, but HW don't do a 2200kV motor in a 3650 size can with a 380 sized rotor as far as I know, which is odd.

The facebook links seem to be ;-

http://www.facebook.com/groups/teamorcausa/

http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=209396768840

In the meantime, my Turnigy ESC from HobbyKing is missing presumed stolen. HobbyKing don't want to help me, I tried their Customer Services many times and they are useless in this matter. HK will NOT replace OR refund your parcel if it was returned to them for whatever reason (it's in their small print in their Terms and Conditions), and they wait 46 days before contacting Hong Kong Post and Royal Mail (some use that will be! NOT) and then eventually after a lengthy investigation you MIGHT be sent a replacement ESC. What a joke HobbyKing is. Don't think I'll ever be ordering from them again. Thankfully I used a UK seller for my HK charger.

I wonder if the ORCA 2200kV motor is more like a silver can or a Sport Tuned in a Scorcher? I suppose I really need a 2600kV 380 rotor in a 540 can, that would be ideal.

The one risk with the ORCA motor is whether it fits the re-re Scorcher gearcase that I am using, but since it would appear to be a HobbyWing motor (that does fit) then I think it would be just fine.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

Alister i dont see why people worry about fitting a motor with too much power to the SRB'S . Most quality items these days are programable with settings from 'silver can ' to' full on insane '. With a little common sence and correct set up i seems to me the choice of suitable motors is vast .

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3000 kv is like putting a Dynatech in it. Nobody in their right minds want to do that.

Here's a little conversion chart I did, and posted on another thread:

Acto-Power: 3583KV

Dynatech 02H: 3472KV

Dynatech 01R: 3050KV

Technipower: 2819KV

GT-Tuned: 2638KV

Technigold: 2638KV

Sport Tuned: 2541KV

Technituned: 2388KV

Mabuchi 540: 2094KV

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Alister i dont see why people worry about fitting a motor with too much power to the SRB'S . Most quality items these days are programable with settings from 'silver can ' to' full on insane '. With a little common sence and correct set up i seems to me the choice of suitable motors is vast .

?? I have never seen that. I have taken note of all of the settings on the usual HobbyWing etc. programming cards and you have things like punch, brakes, etc, but there is NO setting for maximum RPM that I ever saw? :)

So the only way of "turning down the volume" on the 3000kV motor that I can see is by altering the ATV control on my Futaba FF6XS transmitter to something like 60 per cent (after setting it up first with 100 per cent). I'd rather have a motor that's suitable instead if I can get one, i.e. a brushless equivalent of the Sport Tuned. So about 2500kV to 2600kV. But I'm looking for a motor that I can retain the motor cover with on the gearcase. So the ORCA 2200kV was the closest one so far. If I can get my hands on one.

Can't order a motor yet without my ESC arriving LOL.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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3000 kv is like putting a Dynatech in it. Nobody in their right minds want to do that.

Here's a little conversion chart I did, and posted on another thread:

Acto-Power: 3583KV

Dynatech 02H: 3472KV

Dynatech 01R: 3050KV

Technipower: 2819KV

GT-Tuned: 2638KV

Technigold: 2638KV

Sport Tuned: 2541KV

Technituned: 2388KV

Mabuchi 540: 2094KV

Interesting, also from what I have read this chart looks just about spot on.

Cheers,

ARG

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?? I have never seen that. I have taken note of all of the settings on the usual HobbyWing etc. programming cards and you have things like punch, brakes, etc, but there is NO setting for maximum RPM that I ever saw? :)

So the only way of "turning down the volume" on the 3000kV motor that I can see is by altering the ATV control on my Futaba FF6XS transmitter to something like 60 per cent (after setting it up first with 100 per cent). I'd rather have a motor that's suitable instead if I can get one.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

Your correct on the Hobbywing but take a look at castle ect . With their link cable and a PC you can adjust just about any setting plus download their per set profiles to suit your own application or course . Their a little more expencive but in my opinion better quality . Its kind of like mapping on a 1.1 car so you can get things spot on .

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Yeah, after I did the chart I went straight out and ordered three 3050kv brushless motors :) I figure Dynatech 01R type speeds are well suited to DT02 and similar.

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What would happen if I stuffed a Castle 4600kv brushless in, and ran off 7.2v sub-c 6 cell pack?

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What would happen if I stuffed a Castle 4600kv brushless in, and ran off 7.2v sub-c 6 cell pack?

so long as you turned down the punch i would say that it would be fine . you'd maybe have to tweak the other settings but everything is fully tunable . 2s lipo is only 7.4 v and people seem to be under the false impression that lipo means more speed . Thats the wrong way to see it . All lipo gives is a more constant current without the 'drain' and longer runtimes .The castle esc can run on lipo , nicad and even normal brushed motors . Its a investment but allows you to use just about any motor .

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What would happen if I stuffed a Castle 4600kv brushless in, and ran off 7.2v sub-c 6 cell pack?

I'd say you'd be running with far too much top end speed.

Also, if you go for something like 2500kv you can probably get away with a 35A esc for example..

More motor => more cost of an esc.

Punch afaik only adjusts the initial takeoff speed, similar to what a slipper clutch would do.

If you'd aim to limit the top speed, you'd never be giving the esc 100%..

It just doesn't make sense.

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Your correct on the Hobbywing but take a look at castle ect . With their link cable and a PC you can adjust just about any setting plus download their per set profiles to suit your own application or course . Their a little more expencive but in my opinion better quality . Its kind of like mapping on a 1.1 car so you can get things spot on .

I looked at the Sidewinder V2 manual (probably the only one I can afford LOL) and there is no mention of an RPM / speed limiter as far as I can see B) ?

http://www.castlecreations.com/support/doc...rs_ed_guide.pdf

I don't really know what you mean? Is it something on the more expensive Castle ESC's that you can alter?

If so I can't afford it anyway!

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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I just asked, because I have 2 NIB Sidewinder V2's sitting around doing nothing that I picked up cheap as it's the last model C36 motors with the new ESC's.... Maybe I should try it and just see what happens.

Cheers,

Skottoman

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On the Castle setup software you can limit the top end. It's not on the main setup page, but how you adjust the throttle curve on the middle tab. Set it to "point" then put a single point at the far right hand side making the angle of the line less steep. This makes the top end slower. In this way you can make the Castle slower than a silvercan if you feel the need with the benefit of longer runtime from the more efficient system and a sealed motor. About 2/3 to 3/4 the way up the right hand side is about right for an SRB. I set nearly every model in this way to match the chassis type.

The Sidewinder 4600Kv systems are very affordable now and as a fully programmable system with infinite increments in the setup it can be tuned for almost any application (but not crawling).

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On the Castle setup software you can limit the top end. It's not on the main setup page, but how you adjust the throttle curve on the middle tab. Set it to "point" then put a single point at the far right hand side making the angle of the line less steep. This makes the top end slower. In this way you can make the Castle slower than a silvercan if you feel the need with the benefit of longer runtime from the more efficient system and a sealed motor. About 2/3 to 3/4 the way up the right hand side is about right for an SRB. I set nearly every model in this way to match the chassis type.

The Sidewinder 4600Kv systems are very affordable now and as a fully programmable system with infinite increments in the setup it can be tuned for almost any application (but not crawling).

Thanks Mark. Good info, will check it out. Hey would you believe it, my long lost Turnigy 35A brushless car ESC just turned up! It's took like a whole month to get here from Hobby King, when I paid for the "3 to 6 days" delivery option!!

Now to choose a motor.

PS. Whats that all about then? ;) I opened up the mailing box and it's a Turnigy 60A ESC for 1/10 scale car!! What is this, free upgrade day?! :D

OMG - Will it fit into the radio box? Oh Gawd... B)

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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OK Whoops, the screw up is down to Turnigy, it's in a 60A ESC box, but it has the 35A tick box on the end of the box, so it's a 35A ESC after all, so no free upgrade!

They are using the same box for the 18, 25, 35, and 60A ESC's!

At least it should fit my radio box now!

Cheers,

ARG

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Here are some pictures of my Turnigy 35A Car ESC (I can only attach 1 at a time unless the file size is small) ;-

NOTE THE TAMIYA CONNECTOR. Easy to remove and put on a Deans style, ribbed one, with gold plating, which I will do later on.

Also note that the Cutting Mat squares are 10mm each so you can see the size of the ESC.

Cheers,

ARG

post-6936-1321542566_thumb.jpg

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pic 4 (shows the height for radio box fitting purposes). The Cutting Mat squares are 10mm. As you can see the height is 31mm if you include the bolt heads on top of the fan.

ARG

post-6936-1321542765_thumb.jpg

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