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mutationracer

Brushless Sand Scorcher/ Buggy Champ/ Rough Rider

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A close up shot with the new fan +ve and -ve soldered on. It should be that when you pull on the wires with moderate force, they do not come off, then you know you have a sound mechanical joint with very low electrical resistance. Joint should be shiny too, ideally.

Also do NOT bridge the solder connections accidentally. Use a magnifying loupe and then after that a multimeter to verify that there is zero continuity / inifinite resistance (no reading) between the pins either side of where you have soldered.

The original 2 bolts will hold the fan on quite enough, even though they are a little short now with the 3mm taller fan. The ESC plus fan (34mm total height, and 35.5mm total height including bolt heads on top of the new fan) still fits in the SRB radio box with room left for 1 or 1.5mm thickness of servo tape, and doesn't rub against the box top when I put the radio box lid on.

Cheers,

ARG

post-6936-1329946088_thumb.jpg

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Here is a picture of my Keda C40/13T 3000kV motor with 3650 can size and 380 core size, that did slightly less RPM than a Sport Tuned, when the Keda is at 6.6V (and the Sport Tuned at 7.8V) with ESC punch and timing set to minimum. Looks familiar?! It's identical to the Leopard / Hobbywing motor, it seems (not that I have one of those).

ARG

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2 pic's more. Notice nothing written on the can whatsoever. Aluminium can. No sticker on back of "endbell". 3.5mm male bullet connectors, Gold plated. Very good press fit into the Turnigy ESC 3.5mm Gold plated female connectors.

Cheers,

ARG

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Heres some vids of mine & my sons 13T brushless Sand Scorchers. it makes them much more fun to drive, but to be honest I think the 17T would be more than enough! Although having your sand scorcher do wheel stands on the sand is pretty cool!

Enjoy

Jak

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Here is a pic' of the Turnigy 35A SL Car ESC and Keda motor and the length of the wires and how it can fit the radio box (i.e. wires from motor can reach from motor to radio box bottom hole for motor wires, then go through and ESC can sit where Southy has his fitted, same as with HobbyWing ESC and HobbyWing motor. Fits just great. Radio box fits into place great when I hold it in the right place to test it with front Brass torsion bar into front groove of radio box and back end of radio box just trapping the first 1/2 inch or so of ESC 3 wires wire just after the 3.5mm female sockets.

ARG

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Keda motor fits SS2010 gearbox perfectly. No modifications needed at all. Motor front holes engage onto both lugs inside gearcase, no problem. Motor cover still fits as long as a slot is cut in it as here where I did a quick hack in it with a file (sorry about the plastic dust created and that white stuff around the edges of the gearcase is a thin Silicone "gasket", which was NOT waterproof at all when I tested it... Oh well LOL). Pity that I now have to plug up the 2 holes in the motor cover! Not sure how I can do that though?! :lol:

Cheers,

ARG

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Here is the Storm LiFe 6.6V (so Keda motor is at only 20,340 RPM max.) battery for my Scorcher that arrived today ;-

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...st&p=451764

Will be 25 per cent slower than yours on LiPo Jak, using the exact same spec. of motor that we have! What a difference 1 Volt makes!!

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Now for some info. on my new Turnigy 35A SL Car ESC. When I first unboxed it and I turned it on, the fan accelerated to top speed and got loud, using a 7.2V NiMH pack, what happens is that the red LED comes on, stays on for about 4 seconds, then LED goes off, fan stays loud, this seems to be the "boot up / self check" time. Repeatable behaviour, does it always with that pack (GP cells).

But with another identical pack, ESC powered on, but the fan ran MUCH slower and quietly, and LED flashed green. Initially I thought this was the ESC looking for the TX signal (which was present but ESC did not respond) Also I thought that maybe this ESC was sensing the internal resistance of my cells when switched on (rather like my Vapextech AA cells 30 mins fast charger does), and doesn't like packs with a "bad" cell in them on NiMH (LiXX of course have lower internal resistance).

Odd.

HOWEVER, it turned out that I am so used to brushed ESC's (Tamiya TEU-101, Tamiya 302BK, Futaba MC330CR) going beep-beep (pause) (beep-beep) (pause) (repeat) meaning "TX signal lost", that I didn't know that this ESC was DIFFERENT. That sound from this Turnigy 35A Car ESC with GREEN light means that there is something wrong with the battery voltage, it does NOT mean loss of TX signal like it does on those other ESC's! Turns out my one of my NiMH packs was almost dead needing recharge, hence the slow running fan, and once recharged all was fine, and red LED came on 4 seconds then went out, and ESC responded to TX as normal, thank goodness.

My Keda sensorless motor worked really well with this Turnigy sensorless ESC, and I finally realised I could bench test at full RPM no load without failure of bond on the 2 rotor magnets, due to rotor being only 3000kV when the exact same rotor in the Keda 9T 4300kV was going to be rotating much faster even with some load. Motor gets just a little warm, about 25 Celcius, when running for a few of minutes at full RPM, whereas my old brushed motors would either be hand hot or skin burning!

ESC stayed cold with new slower fan.

So far on bench test, brakes and reverse works every time, reverse and brakes are both proportional and reverse starts soft and slow (1656 RPM minimum @ 6.65V), but forwards on the Keda motor doesn't start from very slow, only from 6314 RPM minimum @6.65V, even when timing and punch are both turned down to their lowest setting. No wheels / tyres on yet, just motor turning gearbox.

Also there is NO reverse delay on this Turnigy ESC, it's "double click" style reverse works as fast as you can manipulate the TX stick!

ALL wires on this Turnigy 35A car ESC are either soldered directly onto near the PCB ends (which projects outside the dustproof / waterproof seal formed by the heatsink / PCB middle / plastic case "sandwich") or are soldered to a plug whose socket is then soldered to near the PCB end.
No wires AT ALL enter the casing where the internals of the ESC are, instead the PCB tracks do, which means no worries about water or dust ingress to the ESC internals.

However the fan is external, which can get clogged with dirt / sand easily and be damaged (so I read), the heatsink can also get clogged up by dirt / mud / sand, leading to ESC overheating with powerful motors, except when it's in the SRB radio box which keeps out the dirt.

You do not need to do anything to the TX to program the parameters of this ESC, it's all done purely through the set button.

Looking at the instruction manual I found out that this ESC supports Low Volt Cut off of either no protection, or 2.6V/cell, or 2.8V/cell, or 3.0V/cell, or 3.2V/cell. or 3.4V/cell. So I have set it to 2.8V/cell setting for my LiFe battery packs. Even though the LiFe battery box mentions that my warranty will be void if I let the voltage drop below 3V per cell.

I just bench (static) tested this ESC and how it works is that, from partial or full throttle, you pull back into the brakes zone on the TX stick, and the motor stops, and if you hold the stick in full brakes and attempt to move the rotor via rotating the Spur gear with your thumb, the rotor is held from rotating quite firmly, not locked up but quite firmly held, you can move it but it's like there is a brake band on it, and the coils whine when you try and rotate the rotor.

You can release the stick ALMOST back to neutral, multiple times, say within 25 per cent of neutral, and the brakes stay on every time, but it's nice and proportional and the hold on the rotor is variable depending on stick position. Once stick is within (less than) 15 percent approx. of going back to neutral, the brakes are cancelled when you next pull back, and reverse (which is nice and slow and soft at small reverse stick travel) starts. Will hopefully report back with a test of the RC car on the hill where I live and see how the brakes are there.

This Turnigy ESC has a Tamiya connector for power. The three sockets for the motor plugs are all 3.5mm internal diameter. The three plugs on my Keda motor are 3.7mm at the widest on the metal part and the widest part of the motor plug is like a "cage" that bows out and rotates freely. This "cage" gets squeezed automatically when you plug it into the socket, ensuring a good connection.

I think that this ESC is the same as the HobbyWing 35A SL ESC with Version 2 firmware. Even the user manual for this Turnigy 35A Car ESC is identical to the HobbyWing 35A Car ESC manual (except for the name on the first page). Even the same typo is present in the user manual compared with the HobbyWing manual ("For 7-9 cell NiMH or 2 cells Lipo: You must change the fan", should read "3 cells LiPo"). Set button, construction, everything is the same that I can see.

How to program the Turnigy ESC: You switch on ESC whilst holding down the set button (red LED flashes for about 4 seconds) until you see one green flash (that is the 1st parameter i.e. "Running Mode"). Then immediately let go of the set button. Then the number of red flashes (it repeats them over and over, with pause between them) indicates the programmed value. If you want to change the value, tap the set button, and verify that the number of beeps matches the value wanted, and watch out for long beep = 5 short beeps! Then switch ESC OFF and now it's done (memorized).

BUT when you want to alter a different parameter, let's say the 2nd parameter ("Drag Brake force") then you have to do the same thing from the start, but this time hold down set button (red LED flashes) until you see first one green flash, then 2 seconds later TWO green flashes, then immediately let go, now you can alter the value on this 2nd parameter in exactly the same way as for the 1st one. Works a treat, I just tried it and managed to set and check all parameters in the user manual.

I ordered the programming card for it anyway and am waiting for it to arrive.

Manual says ESC is waterproof and dustproof.

The BEC voltage that I measured from it along the throttle cable was 5.94V when the battery input voltage was 6.60V. At 7.73V battery input, BEC was again still 5.94V.

I am using a Futaba FP-R146iP PCM1024 40MHz receiver with this ESC (this RX does NOT have BEC built in) and powering the RX via the BEC of the ESC i.e. only throttle (channel 3) and steering servo (channel 1) are the only two plugs in the RX. Transmitter I am using is a Futaba Field Force 6XS (T6XS) on 40MHz PCM1024 with throttle and steering gate from TC member Ant88. No problems over many tests.

That's about all the info needed on this ESC LOL.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Came across 3 more alternative 3650 (36mm OD, 50mm length) can sized ("540" sized) motors with "380" sized rotor (i.e the diameter of the armature that was inside the RS-380S motor, 380 the motor itself being 28mm OD x 38mm long) that *may* fit the SS2010 gearcase. The 1st is the Turborix ;-

http://www.r2hobbies.com/eng/proddetail.ph...cps9152848_code

...in 3 different turns available for this size ;-

Turns Max Amps Resistence RPM/V I0(A)

6 69 0.0058 6560 4.5

12 34 0.0221 3279 1.5

20 21 0.0621 1966 0.6

Length : 28mm

Width : 48mm

Gross Weight : 230g

...now I0 means I (current) at 0 load I think. RPM/V is the KV figure. Mentions that it's a 380 (rotor size). The 20T one looks interesting (1966kV) when used on LiPo, when it would be at 14,550 RPM - probably at Maximum Efficiency, so maybe about 15,935 RPM max. no load (when I take into account the behaviour with the Keda motor), which is lower than an RS-540S (Silver Can).

However the measurements for the motor seem to be stated wrongly, but seem to indicate a "2848" i.e 28mm "internal size" but adding of fins bringing it up to a 36mm external diameter, with 48mm length, and I have seen a Tacon 2848 that was a 380 core, 3650 can sized motor so it might still be the same size can as the Hobbywing 13T / Leopard 13T / Keda C40/13T. Note the 2848 in the product code for the Turborix.

In fact the dimensions match my Keda motor in the picture they show here of the Turborix ;-

http://www.r2hobbies.com/images/rcps9152848/02.jpg

...which shows 36mm OD x 65mm total length (have to assume it includes the shaft, which is 15mm length on these motors, and it is important that the shaft is the usual 3.2mm OD size, to fit our pinions on our SRB's).

The Tacon 2848 one is here ;-

http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m10-car-2848-3000.html

Looks familiar?!

code 96M10-Car-2848-3000

Net Weight (g) 171

Watts 400 (maximum power consumption, not actual output power, which depends on efficiency AT THAT POWER)

Outer Diameter (mm) 35.8

Length (mm) 50

Stator 25MM

No of cells (LiPo) 3

max efficiency (%) 85%-89%

max efficiency current 32

no load current (A)/7.4V 1.2

Internal Resistance (milli Ohms) 0.0258

Shaft Diameter (mm) 3.175

Shaft Length (mm) 15

KV (RPM/VOLT) 3000

Turns (for cars)Poles 13T/2POLES

Max Voltage 12.6

Wire Size 0.34

Bullet Connectors YES

Bullet Connector Size 3.5MM

design for FSD

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y133/Eras...RC/DSCF2158.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y133/Eras...RC/DSCF2157.jpg

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...st&p=368646

(thanks to PaPeRo for the pic's)

BTW the Leopard 13T 3000kV one is here ;-

http://www.skyrc.com/index.php?route=produ...p;product_id=98

...click on the specifications tab to get ;-

Item Name Leopard 3000KV/13T/2P BL Motor for 1/10 Car

sensorless No loading @7.2V Current 1.2A

Turns 13T Max current 51A

KV value 3000KV Resistance 0.0246

Poles 2P Battery range 1-3S

Diameter 36mm

Motor length 50mm Max Temperature 150°C

Extend shaft diameter 3.165mm

Length of extend shaft 15mm Suitable ESC 35A or higher

Weight 176g Connector Type 3.5mm

...there's a TC topic about the Leopard one here;-

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=58230

Then there's the Etronix motors that TC member bromvw showed me ;-

http://www.etronix-rc.com/etronix-photon-b...less-motors.php

...once again these are 380 diameter rotors and stators in a finned can to bring the diameter up to 3650 sized. Winds are identical to the Hobbywing ones, and they look just like my Keda motor but are more than twice the price!

The spec's for my Keda 13T motor are ;-

Motor Diameter: 35.8mm

Motor Length: 50mm

Shaft Diameter: 3.17mm

Shaft Length: 15mm

Weight: 160g

Mounting Hole Size: M3, pitch 25mm

Mounting Hole Depth: 4mm Max.

Order Name RPM/V No-load Current Max. Amps Resistance

C40/13T 3000 1.4A 32A 0.0248

...and the spec' for the Hobbywing 13T motor ;-

13T/SL-3650S

Product Code: 90020050

3000 KV

35.8mm OD

50mm length

3.17mm shaft diameter

15mm shaft length

25.0mm between mounting holes across the diameter on the front of the can. Front mounting holes have M3 thread

Same size as a traditional brushed 540 class motor, suitable for all 1/10 scale chassis.

Top quality materials:

Aluminum shell (case)

High quality magnets

Copper wires of high temperature endurance (!)

High quality bearings

Dustproof design (!)

Large output power

Note that none of these motors seem to have a seal on where the motor wires enter the motor, which may (?) allow dirt and water to get in, like on my Keda motor.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Got this reply from GiantCod about my Keda motor ;-

"We get some parts from middle men as they are cheaper. Sometimes they try it on as in this case. I will label these as Keda now I'm aware of what has happened. Some of our stock is definitely Hobbywing so I'll check which is which.

If you want to send it back please do so, if you want to keep it you can.

Let me know what you decide to do.

Regards,

Rob"

LOL trust me to get the con job one :rolleyes: Well I don't know what to do now! Motor seems fine though, might use it, especially as it is 7 quid cheaper than the Hobbywing one and has 2 good reviews. Anyone know if Keda C40 motors have any problems?!

I did notice that the Keda motor has only very little vibration compared to my RS-540S's! They are smooth and rather quiet, with a nice sound even at max. RPM on 6.6V when running free out of the gearbox when I just tested it. Bearings seem to be good also. In comparison the 540S sounds terrible.

Seller has changed the web page now to say Keda. Still has EZRun on the page though, which is a HobbyWing name!

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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As I am still not quite happy with the low amount of cool air provided by the new 12V fan being run @ 6.6V or at 7.4V, I did a quick test and found out that by soldering 5 off 75R (75 Ohm) 0.8W metal film resistors together in parallel and then having the group of resistors in series with the fan, I can drop the voltage quite a bit. I used 5 NiMH cells input @ 6.42V and found that I now had 1.73V across the resitors and 4.69V across the original fan. After a minute of running the resistors were just a gnat's wing above ambient temperature.

I am now searching Ebay for a 5V miniature CPU fan of the same size, with much better quality than the original fan.

I know that this is possible since for example my Uncle George gave me his old PC and the 80mm fan on it was horrendously noisy on 12V. So I replaced the fan with a Xilence brand "Red Wing" fan of the same size and wow it really was completely silent at 12V !! :wub:

Unfortunately Xilence don't seem to make a 5V 25mm square fan. But Sunon do, in 5V, in at least four different powers (0.9W, 0.625W, 0.4W, 0.3W) and in several types (ball bearing, Mag-Lev), which spin up to 13,000 RPM and the 0.4W Mag Lev fan was quoted at 16dB noise which is near silent. For example ;-

http://www.buyextras.com/25mmdc5vfans.html

I'll try ordering a 5V 25mm square x 10mm tall Sunon Mag Lev one with the lowest noise figure. Then maybe I'll get the full cooling and near silent operation LOL.

BTW just noticed that stock fan has 7 blades, when my 12V fan has 5 blades. No wonder you get so much cooling out of the stock fan.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Here is a video showing the IMHO horrendous fan noise of the original stock fan on 6 cells NiMH ;-

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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I was looking for an Efficiency Curve for the HobbyWing style 13T, 3000kV, 3650 can sized, 380 core sized motor and the closest I could find is this one (same size core, almost exact same kV rating, same shaft diameter, also brushless) ;-

http://www.flybrushless.com/motor/view/184

I find it interesting to see the much flatter efficiency curve, and what is alarming is just how many Amps these things can pull out the battery and through the ESC if you can give it what it wants! My ESC can only take 35A continuous though, and my Storm LiFe battery can only give 42 Amps continuous, and in any case the peaks due to accelerations would be fairly short lived (unless on sand, ironically, when nearly full throttle will be used through deep sand most of the time, like on Jak's video LOL). Maybe I'll be changing to the 60A version ESC and a fan with more cooling than this new one...

However NOTE the yellow line being on 3S LiPo (11.1V) whereas the blue line would be of interest to me (2S LiPo, 7.4V) and on my 6.6V battery the power and current consumption will be lower still, thank goodness.

The Io in the table beneath means Current at No load and the kV figure is 2888 (do plane ESC's use timing? My kV figure was lower by about 50 when I was using zero degrees of timing and lowest punch, instead of ESC defaults, and at 6.6V the kV was 213 lower, at 3072kV, as though it was a non linear RPM response to throttle with my Keda motor).

As an interesting comparison (if a little silly maybe LOL) here is a comparison with a Reedy 10 double brushed motor ;-

http://www.petitrc.com/Tech/RCCA_DynoTestR...ModifiedsTi.htm

Note that the curve in those graphs in the Reedy motor link are REVERSED left to right with respect to "normal" !

ARG

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I was looking for an Efficiency Curve for the HobbyWing style 13T, 3000kV, 3650 can sized, 380 core sized motor and the closest I could find is this one (same size core, almost exact same kV rating, same shaft diameter, also brushless) ;-

http://www.flybrushless.com/motor/view/184

I find it interesting to see the much flatter efficiency curve, and what is alarming is just how many Amps these things can pull out the battery and through the ESC if you can give it what it wants! My ESC can only take 35A continuous though, and my Storm LiFe battery can only give 42 Amps continuous, and in any case the peaks due to accelerations would be fairly short lived (unless on sand, ironically, when nearly full throttle will be used through deep sand most of the time, like on Jak's video LOL). Maybe I'll be changing to the 60A version ESC and a fan with more cooling than this new one...

However NOTE the yellow line being on 3S LiPo (11.1V) whereas the blue line would be of interest to me (2S LiPo, 7.4V) and on my 6.6V battery the power and current consumption will be lower still, thank goodness.

ARG

ARG . A few years ago i was very into scale rc fight . Personally i'd take those power curves with a pinch of salt . The reason i say this is that from experiance the loads on aircraft motors are almost constant ie the prop is spining at full speed 90% of the time with only air resistance to overcome . In a rc car you have to factor in the power loss through the gearbox and drag of the tires . Theres just no way a motor is going to run as well in a car as a aircraft . Also consider the amount of cool air a motor gets in flight .

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ARG . A few years ago i was very into scale rc fight . Personally i'd take those power curves with a pinch of salt . The reason i say this is that from experiance the loads on aircraft motors are almost constant ie the prop is spining at full speed 90% of the time with only air resistance to overcome . In a rc car you have to factor in the power loss through the gearbox and drag of the tires . Theres just no way a motor is going to run as well in a car as a aircraft . Also consider the amount of cool air a motor gets in flight .

LOL yes and I am a little concerned about the low air flow on the new fan and the only 35A ESC (even though it can do 190A Burst current, which for batteries is usually quoted as being for 10 seconds). So I *may* shortly be ordering the 60A Turnigy ESC (exact same as the 35A one in characteristics apparently, they even share the same user manual) as having a hot ESC in an insulated plastic SRB radio box concerns me a bit...

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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LOL yes and I am a little concerned about the low air flow on the new fan and the only 35A ESC (even though it can do 190A Burst current, which for batteries is usually quoted as being for 10 seconds). So I *may* shortly be ordering the 60A Turnigy ESC (exact same as the 35A one in characteristics apparently, they even share the same user manual) as having a hot ESC in an insulated plastic SRB radio box concerns me a bit...

Cheers,

Alistair G.

just a idea but why not buy a twin fan ie Ansmann and cut a vent hole in the radio box lid ? actually cool the whole box ? just a thought

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My Turnigy Speed Controller Programming Card just arrived from HobbyKing (and my very nice looking Deans XT style i.e. high temperature Nylon Gold plated T-Connectors which hopefully will be the same quality as a batch I got a while back from elsewhere which were excellent EDIT: Yep, just tried these HK ones and they are great, accepting solder easily and a firm connection when you plug them in) and I followed the instructions for switch off ESC and then disconnecting ESC from battery pack, pulling out the throttle cable from the receiver, and then putting ESC throttle cable into programming card socket on top right of card into the right hand one of the 2 sockets when looking at the card from the front.

Note ;- be VERY careful, the ESC throttle plug has not got the lip on the edge like on a Futaba J plug so can be plugged in accidentally the wrong way round - take note of the little diagram of -+¬ (can't find a symbol for it...) on the card next to the correct socket, where -ve is black, +ve is red, white is signal (waveform wire).

The above is if you are using an ESC with built in BEC. If your ESC has no BEC, then you have to use a 4.8 to 6V pack in the left hand socket to power the card with.

Then reconnect ESC to battery pack and then switch on ESC. Within 1 second, the LED digits lit up bright red with a dash, then goes out, then the digits appear within 3 seconds. Then I started pressing the button for "item" and was able to go through the ESC settings very easily and check them, because they are written on the front panel of the card. Only the last 2 values (motor rotation and Lipo cells number) are not available on this ESC (which matches what the user manual shows for the ESC, i.e. those 2 values are not available on this ESC in the user manual).

Here's a couple of pic's of the programming card, with the thin plastic not peeled off the LED display yet ;-

Cheers,

Alistair G.

post-6936-1330112524_thumb.jpg

post-6936-1330112547_thumb.jpg

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Here is the card with plastic peeled off the LED display. Flash shows scratches that you can't see in normal lighting.

Nice looking card, works perfect, low price. And this time got here a LOT quicker than the ESC (11 days instead of about 3 weeks), with standard delivery this time.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

post-6936-1330112802_thumb.jpg

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Here is the sound of the replacement Evercool fan on my Turnigy 35A Car ESC for my Scorcher, and the sound of the Keda C40/13T motor. Nice and smooth and quiet! On the 6.6V LiFe battery the Evercool fan is spinning at a mere 4000 RPM (fan gets the full battery voltage at present).

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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OK so my new Sunon brand 5V fan model GM0502PFV2-8 (25mm x 25mm x 10mm) with MagLev bearing arrived today for use as a replacement ESC fan, and I tested it on 5.39V (6.41V from 5 cells NiMH, then though 5 off 75 Ohm dropper resistors (which stayed cold) in parallel to give the 5.39V across the fan) and it's supposed to give an Air Flow of 3.0 CFM (which it probably does, it's shifting a massive amount more air through it than the 12V fan that I used previously, when I used the 12V fan on the 6.6V battery voltage) at a Fan Speed of 10,000 RPM.

But no way is it the Noise Level of 16 dBA that is quoted. I have a Xilence 80mm fan running at 12V cooling the HDD on my PC and that was quoted at 15dbA and that really is silent when you plug it in and out with the PC on, whereas this Sunon fan is about 1/2 as loud as the Turnigy fan. There is significant vibration from the Sunon fan, but not as much as from the Turnigy one.

Current consumption is 0.08A (80mA), Input Power is 0.4W, Connection is on two bare leads 5" long.

On reflection I am going to try some more dropper resistors in series with the Sunon fan and get a compromise between cooling and noise.

Oddly I just measured the fan speed of the Sunon at a mere 2.55V and it's already 6,200 RPM (!), with quite a bit of vibration (but rather quiet) and moving about 2x more air than the Evercool fan at 6.6V!

At 3.83V the Sunon is at 9,150 RPM (!), and is reasonably quiet. At 5.11V it's at 11,450 RPM (overspec) and starting to become very noticeable in loudness. At 6.57V it is at 12,820 RPM and is maybe 2/3 as loud as the Turnigy fan and with a lot of cooling available.

OK so I found my compromise, it's 6,900 RPM at 3.01V on the Sunon fan. Almost no sound but just enough to hear the fan a little so as to be assured that it's still actually running at all. This was achieved by using 4 resistors (2 lots in series, and each lot consisting of 2 in parallel), every resistor being of 75 Ohms each, 0.6 Watts, Metal Film type, which get to just about hand hot (not over about 52 degrees C), not enough to affect the radio box as they are so small. When the ESC is held in with servo tape I will tape the resistors to the radio box, that should do fine.

Here's a couple of pic's of the fan. I have since added a reflective square on the fan so I can take readings off it with my tachometer through the transparent radio box.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

post-6936-1331143128_thumb.jpg

post-6936-1331143177_thumb.jpg

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Hello Alistair . I've just fitted a Etronix sensorless 4370kv into a Buggy Champ/Funco . With the std low ratio ie 15t pinion/ 70t spur its perfect . Fast but driveable . The fan is very quite and temps are well within margins . I have run it on a 5000 mAmp 2s lipo hardcase with no problems at all . Fitting was a peice of cake . Its exactly the same fitment as the sdt tamiya motors . The only mod needed was to cut a bit of the motor cover away to clear the 3 wires . Overall its a very easy conversion and once set up ie lowest punch its great . If going above 3000 kv ie EZRUN than IMO the ball diff is a must but the DF 03 slipper clutch is not needed .

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Hello Alistair . I've just fitted a Etronix sensorless 4370kv into a Buggy Champ/Funco . With the std low ratio ie 15t pinion/ 70t spur its perfect . Fast but driveable . The fan is very quite and temps are well within margins . I have run it on a 5000 mAmp 2s lipo hardcase with no problems at all . Fitting was a peice of cake . Its exactly the same fitment as the sdt tamiya motors . The only mod needed was to cut a bit of the motor cover away to clear the 3 wires . Overall its a very easy conversion and once set up ie lowest punch its great . If going above 3000 kv ie EZRUN than IMO the ball diff is a must but the DF 03 slipper clutch is not needed .

Very nice, that's the motor that I see here ;-

http://www.etronix-rc.com/etronix-photon-b...less-motors.php

...it's the 9T, "380 sized" rotor diameter one, the fastest they do (highest kV). A good thing that your ESC is rated at 60A continuous ;-

http://www.etronix-rc.com/etronix-photon-b...-controller.php

...even if the ESC would be a bit hot at 60A continuous, even with the fan running LOL [ouch, just melted my radio box! ] according to that web page. Of course, if on smooth ground then only an initial surge in Amps is encountered, it's not continuous.

Unfortunately that ESC is 40 GBP so too much for me to spend on my first taste of brushless motors. My Turnigy 35A Car ESC was like 18 quid! Also notice that that ESC looks like the Turnigy Trackstar 60A ESC ;-

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_...0A_Car_ESC.html

...which HobbyKing is selling at 18 quid!

Also the Etronix motor is 35 GBP which was double the price of mine.

The combo of Etronix motor and ESC is 70 quid, too expensive for me.

Glad to hear that the fan is quiet! My Turnigy fan was LOUD!! Good thing it can be changed fairly easily.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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So what motor/esc would you recommend just for the beach runs?

Let me know what you think.

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So what motor/esc would you recommend just for the beach runs?

Let me know what you think.

I'm interested in opinions too....

One reservation I have in finding a brushless system for beach use (either sensored or sensorless) is that the ESC's have small fans and I'm sure they don't like sand.

I've been considering the Hobbywing brand; either EZRun (sensorless) or the JS4 sensored system in 13.5T (does anyone know the difference between the JS4 and XERun systems, they are both sensored)

Also, is a sensored system worth the extra money over sensorless??

JS4: (sensored)

http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-combo-js4.html

EZRun: (sensorless)

http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-35a-brushl...stem-combo.html

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I'm interested in opinions too....

One reservation I have in finding a brushless system for beach use (either sensored or sensorless) is that the ESC's have small fans and I'm sure they don't like sand.

I've been considering the Hobbywing brand; either EZRun (sensorless) or the JS4 sensored system in 13.5T (does anyone know the difference between the JS4 and XERun systems, they are both sensored)

Also, is a sensored system worth the extra money over sensorless??

JS4: (sensored)

http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-combo-js4.html

EZRun: (sensorless)

http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-35a-brushl...stem-combo.html

the small fans on brushless systems are'nt a problem on sand . all you need to do is fit a peice of nitro air filter over the fan . it still allows enough air flow while keeping the sand out of the fan . fit a water proof ESC and alls good . the ezrun motors are a direct fit in the srb's and the 13t seems to be the most popular fitment . IMO its about right in terms of performance . anything more powerful makes the srb a rael handful to drive . keep in mind that sensorless will be less prone to any salt water damage if your going beach running as they basically a sealed unit with no elecronics to go wrong .

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