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dan12

How To Get A Silvercan To Scream?

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Hi all,

I have been using a ansmann clash 21t, but i am getting bigger wheels for my fighter buggy so want more torque, right?

I have an old silvercan what hasnt been used much, but i want it to rev higher. How can i do this?

I am going liPo but i think 2s is as muvh as i can go as i am using teu101bk. I know of poeple using 3s, but this would mean i couldnt use my clash with 3s.

Would a 2s make a difference over the 7.2v?

Is everyone sure i cant go 11.1v 3s lipo with stock motor and esc?

Also what sort of speed would i be getting from a 2s on silvercan?

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get your self a cheap bushless system . you can get them as cheap as 59.00 USD through hobbypartz.com they work nice and way more power the brushed. I have even water proofed the cheaper one's . well worth the money. a 2s will make it scream

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the lipo will seem faster, it's the discharge rate that makes it quicker not the minor increase in voltage.

i'm about to try 3s on a teu-103bk esc (twin motor esc).

i'm going to try it out on a car that i have a teu-101bk in as well. they are cheap and i have a bunch of them.

i know that the silver can is pretty quick in my grasshopper. but i can't say how it will move a fighter with truck tires on it.

i'd love to tell you that the 3s works fine, but the 3s i got off ebay still isn't here. the seller gave me some story. hopefully it will be here soon.

i got it for my clod first and foremost.

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Plus with a brushless setup you can sell your stock ESC and motor for about half that too. A much better solution and you can use 2 or 3s with it.

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get your self a cheap bushless system . you can get them as cheap as 59.00 USD through hobbypartz.com they work nice and way more power the brushed. I have even water proofed the cheaper one's . well worth the money. a 2s will make it scream

I dont have the money for brushless, im only 13!

I just want to get my buggy to hit around 30mph with either the clash 21t or silvercan.

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I dont have the money for brushless, im only 13!

I just want to get my buggy to hit around 30mph with either the clash 21t or silvercan.

that's going to be tough.

i have seen guys run 14.4 volts through silver cans, it drastically shortens the life of the motor. but these are guys who have alot of these motors laying around, like myself, so if they die it's no big deal.

sounds to me like you need to save up some $$ or beg grandma or whoever. thats what i had to do when i was a kid.

better yet, get one of your parents or an uncle into rc, then they can help "feed your addiciton". lol

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The bigger wheels will slow the acceleration, greater initial mass to get moving. Torque is the word to keep acceleration

If you aren't too bothered about the acceleration aspect then the bigger diameter wheels will ultimately, with enough time and space give you more speed, assuming the motor can eventually spin up enough. A relatively low friction surface (car park concrete or tarmac) and some tyres with less contact patch (either narrower or knobblier) will also aid a little bit.

You may however find the limiting factor is your motor budget - as you increase speed, it becomes harder and harder to find the next bit of speed. This is no different to 1:1 road cars, you need to double the horsepower in a VW Golf to gain only 30mph improvement in top speed (200bhp GTI vs 105bhp 1.6). Same with supercars - Porsche Carrera GT only needed 550bhp to get to 200mph, yet a Veyron needs 1000bhp to get to 250mph. OK, aerodynamics pay a big part in the 1:1 world, and aren't likely to have much effect at 20-30mph, but you get the idea !

I reckon you need upwards of £30 to see any improvement over where you are currently, by which point you are verging on a used brushless system via ebay.

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Ok then guys.

I also have a ansmann clash 21t which revs to 25.300rpm on 7.2v, this is very fast on a light buggy like the fighter rx (with the small wheels anyway)!

I thought maby by gearing up the silvercan and by putting lots of volts through it it would be quite fast. Maby i should keep the clash 21t but run it on a 2s lipo for more torque?

Cheers.

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sounds to me like you need to save up some $$ or beg grandma or whoever. thats what i had to do when i was a kid.

better yet, get one of your parents or an uncle into rc, then they can help "feed your addiciton". lol

My dad and brother have rc's but they are all nitro. Plus my dad has had lots of problems with them and sorter given up!

He has already spent about £100 in upgrades with my tamiya and another £200 on my smartech speedy tiger nitro buggy!

:(

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sounds to me like you need to save up some $ or beg grandma or whoever. thats what i had to do when i was a kid.

better yet, get one of your parents or an uncle into rc, then they can help "feed your addiciton". lol

My dad and brother have rc's but they are all nitro. Plus my dad has had lots of problems with them and sorter given up!

He has already spent about £100 in upgrades with my tamiya and another £200 on my smartech speedy tiger nitro buggy!

:(

By the way there is a long thread on getting the most out of your silvercan already:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...c=59309&hl=

Fun read

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Going back to the original opening post, i'd be tempted to see how the old silvercan compares to the ansmann clash 21T firstly. The Clash motors are OK for their price (about £8 onebay), but you might find its little different to the silvercan anyway. Also i'd check the brushes int he silvercan, maybe a quick overhaul will see the silvercan deliver more than the clash ?

You could possibly try another clash motor, possibly a 15t. If you can find an old MSC for peanuts somewhere it doesn't matter if you blow the resistor pack with the 15t. £10 on an old MSC and a 15t clash might satisfy your need for speed, even if its short lived !!

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Is everyone sure i cant go 11.1v 3s lipo with stock motor and esc?

As per your other thread. There were a number of opinions saying it would not work, however the people that actually tried it said it works fine. So whats stopping you?

Just use low gearing and check the motor and esc temps regularly to start with.

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The ansmann clash 21t autruns the silvercan by far! The silvercan i have is in good condition but needs a clean thats all.

I need to be sure that a 3s lipo will work ok with the stock teu101 because I have a budget of £40 and a better esc will cost around another £25.

Is there a big difference in parformance with 2s and 3s?

I want to het this sorted so what do you experts think? Will it work or not?

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The ansmann clash 21t autruns the silvercan by far! The silvercan i have is in good condition but needs a clean thats all.

I need to be sure that a 3s lipo will work ok with the stock teu101 because I have a budget of £40 and a better esc will cost around another £25.

Is there a big difference in parformance with 2s and 3s?

I want to het this sorted so what do you experts think? Will it work or not?

I think you already have your answer - there are people using 3s 11.1v with the teu101 without issues, but its a risk and you don't know precisely what set-up they have (tyre friction, gearing, vehicle weight etc) and how long they have succesfully run for. If you want to run on grass, heavy dirt for 15 minutes then you're likely to burn the esc in my opinion, but on tarmac for short spurts you may be OK, especially given the light weight of the FB RX. I appreciate you perhaps don't have £20 to throw away on risking your esc, but i think you need to be prepared to try it with your set-up speciifcally.

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I just want to get my buggy to hit around 30mph with either the clash 21t or silvercan.

Dan,

I get just below 30mph out of my Desert Gator running a Sport Tuned motor and 11,1V 3S LiPo. That is measured with a huge GPS unit (Garmin Zumo), and the Gator might just hit the 30mhp mark without the extra weight. I don't think you'll get 30mph out of a Silvercan if you want to last (theoretically 4S could do it)

Also, why is the 30mph mark important? I can hardly control the Desert Gator on 3S, so putting more power in a lesser chassis will only bring you broken parts, I think.

The only reason for me to advocate the 3S hop-up, is that LiPo's are so easy and cheap to come by these days, and the only change required to the car is soldering in a £1 regulator. If you have a nice 21T motor, go and have fun with that instead :-)

PS: You are displaying great dedication and communication skills for a 13 year old - Keep up the good work!

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I think you already have your answer - there are people using 3s 11.1v with the teu101 without issues, but its a risk and you don't know precisely what set-up they have (tyre friction, gearing, vehicle weight etc) and how long they have succesfully run for. If you want to run on grass, heavy dirt for 15 minutes then you're likely to burn the esc in my opinion, but on tarmac for short spurts you may be OK, especially given the light weight of the FB RX. I appreciate you perhaps don't have £20 to throw away on risking your esc, but i think you need to be prepared to try it with your set-up speciifcally.

I think 3s is just to much for it. I like having lots of fun in dusty gravel car parks so i think it woulld be better to go 2s.

My other option would be to put a good 7.2 pack with a 18t ansmann clash.

sooo many options!

thanks

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Hi all,

sorry for all the questions, but am in a pickle at the moment!

I have been considering 2s and 3s lipo's and can't decide which one to get.

I will be running the stock teu101bk esc.

I would like my fighter buggy (2wd) to wheelie and all that stuff so what will i need?

Would a 2s lipo and a sport tuned motor do this?

thanks

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Hi all,

Yes another question!

I really want my 2wd buggy to wheelie so am in need of a torquier motor.

It needs to be ok running with the teu101bk.

Do tamiya make 550 motors?

thanks

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tamiya dont make them but traxxas etc do, but firstly your kit tamiya esc will not be upto the job and secondly you would have to make sure that the longer motor will fit without fouling the wheels etc. why not just fit a inexpensive brushless system like an ezrun.

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Dan, You will have a hard time getting the DT01 to wheelie with the limitations of a TEU101. The poor man's option is to move the battery further back in the car. Somewhere near the motor. Then it will wheelie even at sane speeds and save you breaking anything :-)

Or get a Lunchbox or a Wild Willy :-))

Let me know how it works if you move the battery- I was tempted to try that out my self...

I just had a crazy idea: If you installed a headlock servo in the right orientation and connected it to the ESC, then you should be able to run your car on the rear wheels only.... Just don't ask me how to steer it :-)))

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Dan, You will have a hard time getting the DT01 to wheelie with the limitations of a TEU101. The poor man's option is to move the battery further back in the car. Somewhere near the motor. Then it will wheelie even at sane speeds and save you breaking anything :-)

Or get a Lunchbox or a Wild Willy :-))

Let me know how it works if you move the battery- I was tempted to try that out my self...

I just had a crazy idea: If you installed a headlock servo in the right orientation and connected it to the ESC, then you should be able to run your car on the rear wheels only.... Just don't ask me how to steer it :-)))

Nice idea!!!

Just struggeling to decide to play the safe option of 2s or 3s!

Its soo hard to decide!

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Can I just ask a question here, as no one else has pointed this out;

You do realise the TEU101 has no LiPo cutoff right ? Without one, the first time you run it flat the cells will go under voltage & your expensive LiPo becomes a pretty paperweight.

Another point; The TEU101 has no BEC, can your receiver handle 11.1v input ? You may not get chance to flatten your LiPo if the receiver & servo goes up in smoke.

It just strikes me that you're approaching this all the wrong way, for what you will need to invest in chargers, balancers, cutoffs & a decent LiPo pack or two, you could put a brushless system in it.

The only way your buggy will reliably hit 30mph with a silver can or Ansmann motor & only spending £50 is if you drop it off a bridge. That sounds harsh but it's true.

Seriously fella, save yourself a lot of grief & go get an EZRun combo. You will have more power than you know what to do with, even using plain old NiMh cells. When you can afford to go for LiPo it will deal with that too, without needing a separate cutoff.

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Dan,

given your limited budget as a teenager, it might be easier to seek advice on motor specs...

Ansmann don't list torque figures, but the Clash 21T is rated at 25,300rpm, 7.2V and 9A, whereas the 23T is rated 23,200rpm, 7.2V and 16.5A. Online specs for Tamiya silver cans vary a bit from website to website , but a 540J is 27T, with 7.9A, 14,500rpm 255g/cm torque at best efficiency whilst a RS-540SH 13A, 19740rpm and 312g/cm torque at max efficiency. RS540 Sport Tuned would give you 18,300rpm, 12A and 350g/cm torque at best efficiency.

As has been said before for wheelies you really need torque, not necessarily a rapid (high rpm) motor. Your current motor might give more top speed, if the motor could spin up high enough with the gearing, but its less likely to jump off the line and potentially lift the front end (light as it is on the fighter buggy). Its difficult to get any feel for how the Ansmanns compare in torque, but something like a sport tuned Tamiya could potentially be a big upgrade to the Ansmann.

As an alternative to moving the battery back you could just add a bit of ballast to the rear end - a good chunk of plasticine stuck onto the end of the gearbox case should do it lol!

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The only way your buggy will reliably hit 30mph with a silver can or Ansmann motor & only spending £50 is if you drop it off a bridge. That sounds harsh but it's true.

A tall bridge... :lol:

The terminal velocity of a buggy is only about 62MPH so the bridge would need to be reasonably high to even achieve 30MPH. "Throwing" it off a bridge might help.

But I digress sorry OP.

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