Old 3-speeds and modern Radio. It works!

[Fantuzzi]

After all my tries failed, to get information if modern 3 (or more) channel colt type radios would work on my bruiser, I had to buy one to check it out. I decided for the Mpx Profi Car 403 and finally got to the result that it works great. You can change the gears precisely with a tip of your thump by using one of the buttons located around the steering wheel.

regards from a happy 3-speed owner

[chungleong]

I used a Futaba Magnum 3PDF in my Mountaineer with pleasing results; set the third channel to three-position shift so you can bang off sequential shifts without farting around with getting the gearbox to engage with a gear stick. Worked pretty well in my opinion.id="Century Gothic">

[night_owl]

Thought of that. But I suppose then you have to remember to release the throttle trigger before you shift yes? Else.....

[Fantuzzi]

It’s not to complicate. Due to the large amount of clearance within the gearbox and drive shaft, you just have to released the throttle a bit to interrupt the forces effecting the driving system. Comparable with shifting a motorbike without using the clutch, just by taking away the drive forces, the shifting process on the bruiser gearbox is fairly smooth. Another advantage is that the shifting process is fast and precisely.

[WillyChang]

"Sequential Shifts"..?!? (snigger)

How often do you guys shift anyway?

In real life our 1:1 Pajero had a little stubby lever "L/H" that never get moved until you went offroad and had to climb out to hub-lock the front. Imho the 3spd's gearbox is the same as this stubby lever's 'transfer' box, its not the 5-spd gearbox hanging off the engine which you'd row to get you moving from the lights.

The 750 motor's torque should be enough to pull off the full range of gears from standstill. Whereas the 3-spd Tamiya trucks are slightly different... they are designed to be shifted on-the-move.

PS: welcome back ChungLeong; where've you been hiding? []

[DJTheo]

I also believe that changing without load while the 3 speed is rolling is better than when its stopped, have had quite few times some gear didnt engage while the truck was stopped, and then when you want to start comes that sound from the gearbox I hate! []

[chungleong]

quote:Originally posted by WillyChang

"Sequential Shifts"..?!? (snigger)

How often do you guys shift anyway?

In real life our 1:1 Pajero had a little stubby lever "L/H" that never get moved until you went offroad and had to climb out to hub-lock the front. Imho the 3spd's gearbox is the same as this stubby lever's 'transfer' box, its not the 5-spd gearbox hanging off the engine which you'd row to get you moving from the lights.

The 750 motor's torque should be enough to pull off the full range of gears from standstill. Whereas the 3-spd Tamiya trucks are slightly different... they are designed to be shifted on-the-move.

PS: welcome back ChungLeong; where've you been hiding? []

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id="quote">id="quote">

How often do I shift? Often enough (its easy enough to be less than a conscious effort). And yes I do get off the gas first. Although I am secure in the knowlege that I have a backup gearbox in my other truck its an option I hope not to exercise.

Where have I been hiding? In the world of mountain bikes where 27 speeds of my choosing are available at the flick of a finger.

Seriously though, its because I changed computers and forgot my password after Roby shifted over here. I took a while to hit-and-miss with the login. The password recovery facility didn't send me my password as promised.

[WillyChang]

quote:Originally posted by chungleong

Where have I been hiding? In the world of mountain bikes where 27 speeds of my choosing are available at the flick of a finger.

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id="quote">id="quote">

Heh heh... the primemover trucks' gearbox are more of a preselector rapidfire mechanism... []

Thought you were stuck in NS!! []

[chungleong]

No I wasn't stuck in NS. Been out too long already. Final semester in school - after which I get to work a bit and maybe line my pockets to expand my collection again!

Say, any luck on those Tamiya Civic and Supra?

[WillyChang]

quote:Originally posted by chungleong

Say, any luck on those Tamiya Civic and Supra?

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id="quote">id="quote">

You still after some? Bits or Kits?

I thought you had gotten everything you wanted already.

[chungleong]

Bits and kits.

Basically looking for complete kits and/or bodies. Would be interested if there were ST185 Celica GT Fours as well.

I've been working on a RWD drifter based on the TA03F chassis that runs RWD but gets all four wheels to help in the braking.

In the meantime, anything you might want from my sunny little island? I'm also looking to head Down Under for a couple of years of undergrad studies. Exploring opportunities, but its probably going to be at Melbourne or Queensland.

[WillyChang]

quote:Originally posted by chungleong

I've been working on a RWD drifter based on the TA03F chassis that runs RWD but gets all four wheels to help in the braking.

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id="quote">id="quote">

Hmm... interesting concept... but a bit contradictory.

If its an 'f' then its motor in front, with belt to behind. If you put a 1-way on *backwards* on the front layshaft then you can disconnect the drive to the front whilst still having 4-wheel brakes. Dunno how it'll perform. The belt's gonna have a hard time though!!

How about getting a M04L. Then put an additional chassis spacer to make it longer, then put TL01 arms on instead of the Mini ones. Imho this would have a most interesting drifter!!? [:I]

[WillyChang]

quote:Originally posted by chungleong

Bits and kits.

Basically looking for complete kits and/or bodies. Would be interested if there were ST185 Celica GT Fours as well.

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id="quote">id="quote">

'Fraid not.

All the local GT4 and Supras are all long gone, last time any kits of shells were seen on shelves were about 1997. I wouldn't mind a runner myself, love those Supra lightcups. [] Lots of used ones appearing though, but their bodies are usually shot.

Can still find the occasional dusty Civic. If found they're usually at 'normal' Oz shop prices of approx A$290-350 on the shelf (imho you can probably do better in eBay). I stopped looking for them after I found my Mugen trio, but if you're interested let me know which one and I could go scouting.

[WillyChang]

quote:Originally posted by chungleong

In the meantime, anything you might want from my sunny little island?

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id="quote">id="quote">

Nothing much apart from the food, I'm afraid!! []

Is there much more old NOS Tamiya stuff still to be found around there? We cleaned out a few places the last time I was there. But a most of the shops now know how much to scru you for nowadays. []

quote:Originally posted by chungleong

I'm also looking to head Down Under for a couple of years of undergrad studies. Exploring opportunities, but its probably going to be at Melbourne or Queensland.

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id="quote">id="quote">

We were at GoldCoast over CNY2002. Not sure how it is to study there, but Brisbane is pretty boring... [|)] I flew up there again myself in March - did 220kms visiting 6 hobbyshops in 1 morning, nothing worthwhile found. BNE's Chinatown is *tiny*, I had to circle 3 times around it before I realised I was already driving right through the place each time.

Melbourne's not a bad place to live; barring the occasional student shooting. [V] Oh well:- life is short, play hard.

What course are you leaning towards?

[chungleong]

quote:

Hmm... interesting concept... but a bit contradictory.

If its an 'f' then its motor in front, with belt to behind. If you put a 1-way on *backwards* on the front layshaft then you can disconnect the drive to the front whilst still having 4-wheel brakes. Dunno how it'll perform. The belt's gonna have a hard time though!!

How about getting a M04L. Then put an additional chassis spacer to make it longer, then put TL01 arms on instead of the Mini ones. Imho this would have a most interesting drifter!!? [:I]

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id="quote">id="quote">

Yes its contradictory. A 4WD drivetrain that only works when you hit the brakes. I didn't do the reversed one-way bearing on the layshaft; I did it in the front differential. By my estimates that one-way bearing is going to see quite a bit of stress and I do expect it to break.

I did drive it for a couple of battery packs to get a setup into it though. On the first few runs I was already getting the tail to step out some, so I think it might work after all. I'm trying to replicate FR-drivetrain in RC seeing that no one else does it.

I do have a RWD M02M with a Mazda MX-5 body on it if I wanted a cheap drifter...... [|)]

[chungleong]

quote:

Nothing much apart from the food, I'm afraid!! []

Is there much more old NOS Tamiya stuff still to be found around there? We cleaned out a few places the last time I was there. But a most of the shops now know how much to scru you for nowadays. []

We were at GoldCoast over CNY2002. Not sure how it is to study there, but Brisbane is pretty boring... [|)] I flew up there again myself in March - did 220kms visiting 6 hobbyshops in 1 morning, nothing worthwhile found. BNE's Chinatown is *tiny*, I had to circle 3 times around it before I realised I was already driving right through the place each time.

Melbourne's not a bad place to live; barring the occasional student shooting. [V] Oh well:- life is short, play hard.

What course are you leaning towards?

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id="quote">id="quote">

The shops are pretty much cleaned out as far as old stock is concerned, but seems like the local Tamiya dealer gets their new stock in fairly quickly (after Japan announces it). Not much old stock left for them to jack up the prices anyway!

I'm leaned over on Landscape Architecture. Looking to be there early or mid-2004.

[WillyChang]

quote:Originally posted by chungleong

I did drive it for a couple of battery packs to get a setup into it though. On the first few runs I was already getting the tail to step out some, so I think it might work after all. I'm trying to replicate FR-drivetrain in RC seeing that no one else does it.

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id="quote">id="quote">

Are you using 'same' tyres all round?

Hmm... maybe we should take a tip from the 1:1 guys too. I notice they all have big fat fancy fronts, but have the skinniest crappy rears; less grip at back might be the key.

How come you want 4WD brakes?? Who uses brakes..? []

[WillyChang]

quote:Originally posted by chungleong

The shops are pretty much cleaned out as far as old stock is concerned, but seems like the local Tamiya dealer gets their new stock in fairly quickly (after Japan announces it).

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id="quote">id="quote">

Yeah, we know Uncle Tony at TS well. He is very good mates with the Tamiyas, afterall he's been importing their stuff since the 1960s. He brings in containerloads every week or 3; there is very good volume through S'pore, especially since they supply Indo & M'sia as well.

I must remember to ask him, next time he's in Japan, to put a good word in re: SandScorcher re-release. []

quote:

Not much old stock left for them to jack up the prices anyway!

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id="quote">id="quote">

Nth Bridge Rd is not the culprit, its the smaller shops that "used to" sell Tamiya with boxes of old parts. $10/sprue unbagged that's OK, but when they start dreaming of pricing it at JPY RRP at Y30 = S$1 that's when things get ridiculous. [V] $50 for a Frog bumper?? No thanks.

Actually a few yrs back circa 1996 TS had some good chuckouts. Try $99 for a Amigo/Mju kit, they had quite a few too... but I only got there about 2 mths too late, all gone.

quote:

I'm leaned over on Landscape Architecture. Looking to be there early or mid-2004.

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id="quote">id="quote">

Sounds interesting, sorta like "ID" only outside. []

Word of warning... I know heaps of young S'poreans who've come over for study... and a lot of them end up applying for PR after graduation and staying on!! [:0] At this rate LKY might ban overseas study pretty soon, to stem the braindrain.

[chungleong]

quote:Originally posted by WillyChang

quote:Originally posted by chungleong

I did drive it for a couple of battery packs to get a setup into it though. On the first few runs I was already getting the tail to step out some, so I think it might work after all. I'm trying to replicate FR-drivetrain in RC seeing that no one else does it.

---

id="quote">id="quote">

Are you using 'same' tyres all round?

Hmm... maybe we should take a tip from the 1:1 guys too. I notice they all have big fat fancy fronts, but have the skinniest crappy rears; less grip at back might be the key.

How come you want 4WD brakes?? Who uses brakes..? []

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id="quote">id="quote">

Well until I get the hang of it, I'm running the same meats front and rear so that it doesn't break loose too quickly.

4WD braking to me, gives a more subtle weight shift than rear wheel drive braking. Its akin to using the handbrake everytime you want to slow down, and the car *may* swap ends so quick you can't recover from it.

The 1:1 scale drifter guys, the good ones, don't use the handbrake to initiate a drift.

Its my goal to get the car tuned to just a bit less than neutral, biased to the front wheels, such that the weight shifting under braking gets the tail to hang out nicely.

[WillyChang]

quote:Originally posted by chungleong

The 1:1 scale drifter guys, the good ones, don't use the handbrake to initiate a drift.

Its my goal to get the car tuned to just a bit less than neutral, biased to the front wheels, such that the weight shifting under braking gets the tail to hang out nicely.

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id="quote">id="quote">

Why not try a TA03F's tub in your car... even more weight forwards.

Actually, you shouldn't be using the 1:1 handbrake under *any* circumstances... the cable isn't designed for hard yanking. (Handbrake turns aren't very good for cars either.)

Real 1:1 drifters would never use a handbrake; yeah sure they brake whilst approaching into the corner - this shifts weight to the front, more grip to the front wheels.

To get the rear end moving, you'd then step on the gas (best be in gear-range where you have the best torque). Modulate the slippage with the throttle only, never brakes; countersteer in direction of intended travel. Overcook the power and you'll do donuts or go off backwards [:0] (don't ask, just between me and the borrowed S2000, ok?).

Locked rear diff or LSD would probably help too. When the tyres came back to grip in the '73 240Z (another 'wow' drifter! With brandnew tyres on the front and 20yo Michelins at the back, whaddya expect??[:I]) the diff/drivetrain always had a defening KLONK. Having the seat pretty much on top of rear axle also makes for good control.

Surprisingly one can drift with a FWD too... just steer, weight-shift, countersteer. However you cannot control the drift length and definitely cannot drift around a circle.

These days I only get to drift with a Bit Char-G... [^]