Drift Car

[blee007]

hello everyne

after running with several tamiya off road rcs i want to get an on road drift car.

my experience so far shows me that u d better start of with a nice high performance kit than getting a simple kit and spending triple the money for hop ups and improvements.

i am between the 84132 TA05 or the 84109 TB-03R... i even consider this one 42184 TRF417 but i am afraid that i am gonna have problems with it if i go off road..

please advise and share your opinions.. other models not mentioned above are also welcome

thanks for ur time

[TWINSET]

Having had a little dabble in drifting, the setup of the car seems far more important than anything else - suspension characteristics, diff actions etc.

Tamiya and HPI both do a selection of drift spec kits, ranging from around £170 to £340 (for the 84132)

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?sear...ch_string=drift

The TB-03R is a rally spec chassis, so you'd need to then source the appropriate drift 'tyres' although it will allow you a degree of 'off-road' but you'd need to tune for the two different running surfaces.

Can't see the 84132 tolerating much in the way of off-roading at all though

[Tamiya1/10]

Got to agree with you. Better to start with a well design and more expensive model than buying a cheapy and pay big bucks for all the hop ups, which in the end is still not that much better. This will only come from experience as some would want to have the badest cheapy model...kind of like spending $50K on a civic when one can get a M3 and still out run the civic.

[merckx]

i have had two drift cars, one is a tamiya tb evolution 3, its an old shaft drive touring car racing chassis, the other is a xray T2r 07 model, its a belt drive touring car racing chassis. both drift really well, and slightly different to eqch other. i also think its worth buying a decent chassis, perhaps someones old race car, and using that. it is what i did. all you really need to do to turn a race chassis to a drift car is fit some drift tyres. i have found HPI T Drift tyres to be the best mix of controllable slide and straightline speed. its also really helpful to fit a spool or fully locked diff to the rear. this helps it to hold a nice consistent drift slide. if you have a normal rear diff, it will tend to do what it is supposed to do, and try and grab traction, which makes the car more likely to spin a 180. up front i have just run standard one way type diffs, seems to work fine. you can go crazy with motors too, heaps of power is no problem, i ran 8.5 novak brushless, but you could easily run 6.5 or lower. of the two, i prefer the tamiya tb evolution, it is much much heavier, and this really helps the momentum of the drift. the xray is a very light chassis, and i found it a little harder to master sliding it, but once i did it was a lot of fun also.

[blee007]

can u please provide me some links with info about the rear diff options.. i really have no clue about it..

i think i m gonna go with the tb03r (compared with the other 2 models is more of a race chassis i think) and start from there..

your help is very helpful

thanks

[Static Age]

A locked rear diff is a must, infact I have both diffs locked on my drift car.

If the chassis you buy has ball diffs then you can lock the rear just by tightening it up. Then maybe tighten the front diff slightly so that it acts as an LSD.

If the car has geared diffs then you can lock them buy putting a bit of hot melt glue on the planetery gears, this can easily be picked off if you wish to have the diff's functioning again.

[blee007]

ok i see

do u need to tighten the rear diff so as the wheels wont move at all in different directions (assuming the shaft or main drive belt are not moving) or they need to move a little (just to make it difficult for the car to oversteer)

can i try that on my durga db01 just to see the different effect.. (it is a ball diff model with a belt) or i wont see any difference?

[aldebaran]

do u need to tighten the rear diff so as the wheels wont move at all in different directions (assuming the shaft or main drive belt are not moving) or they need to move a little (just to make it difficult for the car to oversteer)

can i try that on my durga db01 just to see the different effect.. (it is a ball diff model with a belt) or i wont see any difference?

That is the point exactly. When the differentials are locked, the two wheels on the same axle will move in the same direction.

I took my non-drift car through its paces yesterday and it oversteered too much, making huge arcs around pylons. I was side swiping my furniture left and right. I have a locked rear differential on order and I'll see how much it helps.

What might help even more is to disable AWD and lay down power only to the rear tires.

[TamiyaVancouver]

Here's my take, take it with a couple of grains of salt. I found myself wanting to get a drift car myself just before Xmas. I am a Tamiya guy and love building the kit. I also had a budget. After doing some searching I found that the Tamiya Drift Spec kits were too expensive especially once you add electronics. So I started looking at TT01ED kits which came with ESC, LED lights, and sport tuned motors. The problem with this kit is it still needs some work on the diffs and those hop ups would add to the cost. Cheapest I could find one of those kits was approx $230 US including shipping.

So it pains me to admit this, but I ended up buying an Associated TC4 ready-to-run. It was $250 USD from the local hobby shop and I am selling the included TX/RX to offset the price. Of course I didn't get to build it (which sucks) and I still had to buy drift tires, but it is much more of a car than the TT01. Has a lot more adjustment in terms of camber, comes with a 17T motor, and has a better suspension setup stock. The drivetrain is also bullet proof and requires no other modifications to drop in any brushless system you desire if you want to do that. That being said, it will probably be my only non Tamiya car because the build is 75% of the fun for me.

Mark

[Static Age]

If you settle for a Tamiya chassis then be sure to get a steel pinion gear. The added strain of locked diffs kills the soft aluminium pinion in no time at all, often taking the spur gear with it.