actualday 7 Posted January 16, 2011 Hi Chaps Can I call on your collective expertise again please? this time in the search for a contemporary 4WD buggy... I am considering a DF-03 [i cant find the cash for a RERE Avante which is a shame, but hey ho ] I am hoping to save up for a new 4WD buggy, that still has hop ups available and am currently musing over the DF-03... anyone got an opinion on what these are like to build and drive? also what hop ups are available for these [i ask before i go out and buy a 2011 Tamiya Catalogue ] Am i right in thinking these are still a current model and that a double deck chassis is available for these? cheers guys actualday Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gruntfuggly 562 Posted January 16, 2011 I really like my DF03 - it's good fun for bashing - with an EzRun brushless system in it's fast too. Plenty of hop-ups available - although I don't think I've seen a double deck chassis for it, but then I don't think it really needs it - it's a light car to start with. The one thing you may have a problem with is the alloy idler gear (there's your cue Mark )... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
actualday 7 Posted January 16, 2011 Plenty of hop-ups available - although I don't think I've seen a double deck chassis for it, but then I don't think it really needs it - it's a light car to start with. Thanks for your positives on this buggy Gruntfuggly, I did find a double deck chassis with the help of google http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-df03-ch...2f31de73cd4d0d3 anyone got experience of this one?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gruntfuggly 562 Posted January 16, 2011 Looks cool, but expensive - are you bashing or racing? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Rat 0 Posted January 16, 2011 Grunt, Can you give me the full elec spec for your DF3 im thinking changing mine about a bit. Quick? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
actualday 7 Posted January 16, 2011 Looks cool, but expensive - are you bashing or racing? bashing with a view to racing later on [ if i can find a local club that offers this class...] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gruntfuggly 562 Posted January 16, 2011 @The Rat - Nothing special - an EzRun 9T brushless combo - got it when they first came out (a fair bit cheaper then). Plenty fast enough for me - too much tyre wear! Decent run times too... http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...5452&sid=32 bottom pic... (although I've changed the nasty tamiya battery connectors for powerpoles now)... @actualday - I think I'd definitely stick with the tub chassis for a while if you're bashing - those decks look too nice to get scratched! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TA-Mark 195 Posted January 16, 2011 First upgrade above all others: Five Stars hardened steel mainshaft part number FS7038 (standard shaft) or FS7039 (slipper shaft). This replaces the problem aluminium gear on the Tamiya mainshafts. I was gettting about 10 battery runs per shaft with a 4600Kv brushless, and about 300 orso runs with the kit motor/ESC before the shaft and the idler/bevel gear that runs from it were toast. I've since sold two of my three DF03s as a bad joke and moved onto a much more reliable 4WD buggy with a fully sealed driveline, HPI Cyber 10b. The DF03 I kept is the only one I could get a Five Stars mainshaft for, they are a hard part to get outside of Japan. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WW-nut 0 Posted January 16, 2011 Am i right in thinking these are still a current model and that a double deck chassis is available for these?cheers guys actualday Believe Tamiya have stopped making DF03 kits now, so it may be replaced with a newer model soon(ish). Though as you are possibly going to have a go at racing a Durga/Baldre/DB01R would probably be a better choice for you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
actualday 7 Posted January 16, 2011 as far as belt drives go are they reliable at all?? I could imagine the belts stretching and coming off if i put a hot motor in it?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
terry.sc 16 Posted January 16, 2011 as far as belt drives go are they reliable at all?? I could imagine the belts stretching and coming off if i put a hot motor in it?? Considering all the top spec touring cars are exclusively belt drive, and a lot of buggies including the current euro champ TRF511 are belt drive, and they all run much hotter motors than you will ever run, belts coming off are never a problem. Belts take years to stretch that much, can't remember the last time I had to buy new belts for anything. Given the choice between belt or shaft drive I would choose belt drive every time. If you are ever planning on racing the Durga/Baldre/DB01R cars are a world apart from the DF03 even with the DF03 loaded with added options. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
actualday 7 Posted January 17, 2011 If you are ever planning on racing the Durga/Baldre/DB01R cars are a world apart from the DF03 even with the DF03 loaded with added options. Thanks Terry SC, are the Durga/Baldre/DB01R cars still currently in production or are all the stockists just selling off old stock? Its the parts availability that is a big issue for me these days... trying to keep costs sensible whilst still building a car that is a hoot to drive... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
terry.sc 16 Posted January 17, 2011 The Durga and DB01 are very current: Durga DB01R If you are planning on adding all the hopups the DB01R is the cheaper option, but unless you are racing seriously you won't notice many differences. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WW-nut 0 Posted January 18, 2011 Though even if you don't race as you're planning to put a hot motor in it, you'll need to buy a slipper clutch for a Durga/Baldre - the DB01R comes with one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
actualday 7 Posted January 18, 2011 Though even if you don't race as you're planning to put a hot motor in it, you'll need to buy a slipper clutch for a Durga/Baldre - the DB01R comes with one. NOW I show the true level of my newbyness... What is a slipper clutch? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
terry.sc 16 Posted January 19, 2011 A slipper clutch sits around the spur gear, and allows some slip in the transmission. It has two uses in a buggy. Firstly on low grip surfaces you use it to cut down on wheelspin, you adjust it to allow the clutch to slip slightly when accelerating hard, it means the tyres still grip the surface so giving more acceleration than if the tyres were spinning. With the soft tyres we use for racing these days it isn't the most important reason for a slipper. The big reason to have a slipper is to prevent damage to the drivetrain when landing from jumps and bumps, every time the wheels leave the ground there isn't a load on the motor any more so the motor (and wheels) spin faster. When the tyres touch the ground again the wheels suddenly slows to normal buggy speed while the motor is still spinning quicker, rather than taking the teeth off a gear or damaging the motor the slipper clutch allows some give in the drivetrain that prevents any damage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BeetleLover 4 Posted January 19, 2011 I'd fully recommend leaving the DF03 alone and just go with the DB01 chassis instead, Baldre/Durga etc... Really nice cars, plenty of performance and upgrades available. I've managed to beat cars twice their price on the track and had people on the stand saying things like don't let that Tamiya beat you etc! It was straight out of the box with kit tyres and no real finesse on the settings... I think you will find the DF03 limited and expensive once you've bought all the hop ups and then I still think the DB01 will have you stock standard! James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
actualday 7 Posted January 21, 2011 A slipper clutch sits around the spur gear, and allows some slip in the transmission. It has two uses in a buggy. Firstly on low grip surfaces you use it to cut down on wheelspin, you adjust it to allow the clutch to slip slightly when accelerating hard, it means the tyres still grip the surface so giving more acceleration than if the tyres were spinning. With the soft tyres we use for racing these days it isn't the most important reason for a slipper. The big reason to have a slipper is to prevent damage to the drivetrain when landing from jumps and bumps, every time the wheels leave the ground there isn't a load on the motor any more so the motor (and wheels) spin faster. When the tyres touch the ground again the wheels suddenly slows to normal buggy speed while the motor is still spinning quicker, rather than taking the teeth off a gear or damaging the motor the slipper clutch allows some give in the drivetrain that prevents any damage. thanks for the clear explanation, i had always wondered what a slipper clutch was, and waht it was for! I'd fully recommend leaving the DF03 alone and just go with the DB01 chassis instead, Baldre/Durga etc... Really nice cars, plenty of performance and upgrades available. I've managed to beat cars twice their price on the track and had people on the stand saying things like don't let that Tamiya beat you etc! It was straight out of the box with kit tyres and no real finesse on the settings... I think you will find the DF03 limited and expensive once you've bought all the hop ups and then I still think the DB01 will have you stock standard!James more good advice, and refreshing to hear tamiyas doing well at the track... i will have a look at the DB01 again with this in mind, thanks for posting Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
