Hobbywing 60amp Esc's

[bx4525]

Hey guys what would be the max motor kv a 60amp ezrun or xerun esc's can handle? Would a 4400kv motor and 60amp ezrun esc be ok? A 5200kv would no doubt need a 120amp correct?

[stu22]

Since EzRun sells the 60A ESC paired with their 5.5T 6000kV motor I'd say you should be fine. The 60A rating is for continuous current, the thing is rated for 380A burst.

[bx4525]

Thanks Stu. Just saw that on hobbypartz. Guess that answers my question.

Since EzRun sells the 60A ESC paired with their 5.5T 6000kV motor I'd say you should be fine. The 60A rating is for continuous current, the thing is rated for 380A burst.

[kaiser]

depending on application hw recomends no lower then 8.5 for off road, no lower the 5.5 onroad.

that being said i have run the 5.5 off road in my b4, silly fast, but everything worked fine and stayed cool. (i did this with an xerun)

they are pretty good esc's.

[stu22]

I was running the EzRun 60A/5.5T on my Hyper10SC before switching it to the "standard" Novak 4.5T SCT setup.

The 5.5T (with a LRP ESC now) has found a new home in my B44, but it might have to wait for spring until it really gets run I got the gearing out of the manual but suspect there will have to be adjustments.

[bx4525]

I was about to order a ezrun 60amp with a tacon 4420kv motor. Tacon does not label number of turns on their motors. Most of my trucks will be on road/street driven anyway. Maybe the 60amp will be ok?

[tamiya monkey]

i have a 60amp esc and 4000kv motor in my traxxas slash and it runs great. top piece of kit.

[kaiser]

I was about to order a ezrun 60amp with a tacon 4420kv motor. Tacon does not label number of turns on their motors. Most of my trucks will be on road/street driven anyway. Maybe the 60amp will be ok?

you should be fine, you'll on the cusp of what hw limits the esc at, but we all know they kind of under rate them. 4420kv, on 7.4v is what most manufactures that use turns would call 7.5t.

[MrUnlimited]

The manual says onroad 5.5t and offroad 8.5t. It should stay with that to avoid damage to the esc.

[Mighty flex]

mine will happily run 11.1v on 4000kv off road all day.

[Origineelreclamebord]

I'm not really a fan of the Hobbywing brushless combos (huge cogging) - but apart from that they seem to offer good value for money. I have an 8.5T system on a 60A ESC in my TB01, and whereas the motor can get pretty warm at times, the ESC is pretty cool under the circumstances in which it's usually running (onroad driving, tub/dust cover over the car).

[qatmix]

I'm not really a fan of the Hobbywing brushless combos (huge cogging) - but apart from that they seem to offer good value for money. I have an 8.5T system on a 60A ESC in my TB01, and whereas the motor can get pretty warm at times, the ESC is pretty cool under the circumstances in which it's usually running (onroad driving, tub/dust cover over the car).

Are you gearing your car properly? We don't get any cogging on ours apart from a minor amount when engaging from a standing start.(And it's only noticeable when compared to my sensorless systems) if you want dodgy try H.a.r.d sensorless mega rough)

[Origineelreclamebord]

Are you gearing your car properly? We don't get any cogging on ours apart from a minor amount when engaging from a standing start.(And it's only noticeable when compared to my sensorless systems) if you want dodgy try H.a.r.d sensorless mega rough)

I am sure the gearing isn't too high for the motor, actually I was planning to put a higher gearing on it because the motor sounds like there's no weight to push around when driving. From what I know a low gearing doesn't increase the chances of big cogging, right? If it does, I better take back what I said about it

I do know that there is no cogging at higher speeds, but at walking speeds and lower, cogging is present, and very bad - so bad that I feel sorry for the gears. Especially if I compare it with my Tamiya sensorless brushless system (relabeled Team Orion) and my sensored Losi Xcelorin system (because neither of them gives any cogging - not even the sensorless system).

[kaiser]

i've never had any cogging with ezruns.

and the xeruns are sensored. but the ez runs have been great.

i did plenty of slow driving this weekend with my clod and dual 4000kv ezruns and no cogging.

[Origineelreclamebord]

i've never had any cogging with ezruns.

and the xeruns are sensored. but the ez runs have been great.

i did plenty of slow driving this weekend with my clod and dual 4000kv ezruns and no cogging.

That's strange, for me the more frustrating as mine is so bad - and on the other hand, pretty amazing too! The mere thought that my EzRun wouldn't have any cogging is pretty impossible to imagine.

Perhaps then I'll have a look again at gearing - Oh, and at what punch setting did you set it?

[kaiser]

on my clod(60amp) the punch is @ 7.

on my m03 (35amp) it's @ 1

[tamiya monkey]

im sure my punch is set at 6 or 7 too on my 60amp esc.

[stu22]

I am sure the gearing isn't too high for the motor, actually I was planning to put a higher gearing on it because the motor sounds like there's no weight to push around when driving. From what I know a low gearing doesn't increase the chances of big cogging, right? If it does, I better take back what I said about it

I do know that there is no cogging at higher speeds, but at walking speeds and lower, cogging is present, and very bad - so bad that I feel sorry for the gears. Especially if I compare it with my Tamiya sensorless brushless system (relabeled Team Orion) and my sensored Losi Xcelorin system (because neither of them gives any cogging - not even the sensorless system).

This is the first time I've ever heard of gearing by sound. I always go by the motor temp. It's possible to overheat a motor by having it under geared too.

I currently have a half dozen EzRun systems and have never had an issue with cogging. The only times I've ever seen it happen on any sensorless system are on crawlers with some really high turn motor or, and this really isn't cogging but looks like it, when a battery pack can't supply enough current when accelerating or at W.O.T.

[Origineelreclamebord]

This is the first time I've ever heard of gearing by sound. I always go by the motor temp. It's possible to overheat a motor by having it under geared too.

I currently have a half dozen EzRun systems and have never had an issue with cogging. The only times I've ever seen it happen on any sensorless system are on crawlers with some really high turn motor or, and this really isn't cogging but looks like it, when a battery pack can't supply enough current when accelerating or at W.O.T.

Cool It seemed to work so far... There's a difference in sound between when the motor is under load, and when it's not. It mainly has to do with the RPM it can achieve, but you can definetely hear when it's struggling because of a high gearing. Temperature is a good thing to check too though, which I also regularly do - by feel though, no measuring equipment. I can still touch the motor after running (even though it's much warmer than my Dyna Storm's sensored 10.5T brushless system - the difference in turns and the weight of the car may affect this though), and with 25-35 minute runs with my 3200mAh LiPo, I think it should be just fine. Both methods are probably not as accurate as finding actual gear ratio charts though

[stu22]

...Temperature is a good thing to check too though, which I also regularly do - by feel though, no measuring equipment. I can still touch the motor after running (even though it's much warmer than my Dyna Storm's sensored 10.5T brushless system - the difference in turns and the weight of the car may affect this though), and with 25-35 minute runs with my 3200mAh LiPo, I think it should be just fine. Both methods are probably not as accurate as finding actual gear ratio charts though

Given that a properly geared motor would be running at about 160F, and 160F will feel the same as 200F, you really can't use your finger.

I wouldn't rely on the charts too much either. I've had a car setup and running at 150F on one track and go to over 180F on a different track using the same gearing. Difference was the second track was much faster and didn't have much of a "technical section" to give the thing a chance to cool down, the motor was under geared and heating up because of it. Of course after re-gearing for track 2 I would be over geared for track 1 I would find myself over geared.