One Piece Driveshafts Still Need The O-ring?

[unrise_lyrical 0]

I just swapped out the stocko Tamiya 2 piece driveshafts for some aftermarket one piece ones. These came with no instructions, and when I put them in without the rubber o-rings that sit inside the stock axles, there was a considerable amount of slop in the shafts (shifted 2mm and made the bearings shift around). I figured that was a recipe for disaster, and put the o-rings in the inside axles instead (the ones that run into the diff). This has taken the slop out of the whole system, but now the shafts are really pushed into the o rings a fair amount. The front wheels wont sit facing directly forward (there is no serve in place at the moment) and will gently turn either left or right. I would think once the servo is in place, this won't matter, and the torque of it will be enough to control the steering, but I didnt want to have too much lateral force on the bearings in the hubs or anything that is going to cause undue wear? Hopefully I have explained that clearly enough? Thanks in advance!

[sosidge 624]

I just swapped out the stocko Tamiya 2 piece driveshafts for some aftermarket one piece ones. These came with no instructions, and when I put them in without the rubber o-rings that sit inside the stock axles, there was a considerable amount of slop in the shafts (shifted 2mm and made the bearings shift around). I figured that was a recipe for disaster, and put the o-rings in the inside axles instead (the ones that run into the diff). This has taken the slop out of the whole system, but now the shafts are really pushed into the o rings a fair amount. The front wheels wont sit facing directly forward (there is no serve in place at the moment) and will gently turn either left or right. I would think once the servo is in place, this won't matter, and the torque of it will be enough to control the steering, but I didnt want to have too much lateral force on the bearings in the hubs or anything that is going to cause undue wear? Hopefully I have explained that clearly enough? Thanks in advance!

It would help if you mentioned the car you have and the shafts you have bought...

In general, if the car has the kind of diff outputs that fall out if there isn't a driveshaft in there, then you will need a spacer of some sort that keeps the diff output engaged without binding up on the driveshaft at any point in the suspension travel. If the o-ring is too thick, but no o-ring is too loose, try to find a smaller or softer spacer, perhaps a cut down slice of nitro fuel tube, or one of Tamiya's urethane bushings.

At the wheel axle, you can take out any excess free play with shims - normally the Tamiya cars will have a good 0.5mm tolerance at the wheel bearings, so depending on how you choose to shim it, you can move the driveshaft in or out of the diff output too.

[TamiyaDan 8]

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[WillyChang 1814]

cheap aftermarket 3rd party products... aren't unknown to get their dimensions wrong,

package the wrong part &/or generally not work properly without some corrective modifying