Clod Buster Chassis Suggestions

[Percymon]

So guys n gals, i've bought yet another sad case , but fear not i have a plan for this one !!

After expressing my views that the Clod wasn't for me (bouncy nature as seen in most of the video clips on youtube !), and with a little nudge from Pete (kaiser) I've taken the plunge, bought a sad case for an original Clod (bought t primarily for its wheels and axles, which with hopefully minimal expense can be refurbed , rather than forking out about £150 in new parts !!).

The plan is to fit the relevant bits into a better chassis, biased towards cornering and jumping, rather than rock crawling. But which one ?

Much as i'd love some of the more exotic ones..

G-made Dragoon http://www.gmade.net/bbs/zboard.php?id=cra...sc=asc&no=1

Team PRP Berzerker http://www.teamprpracing.com/clodbuster.html

...I'm going to have to keep costs in check with this build; which given its a Clod is somewhat difficult ,and i'll have to wait some time before a dual brushless finds its way into the chassis.

So looks like my options are..

Clodzilla 2 - not realy keen on these due to the open nature of the chassis and they look to my eyes to have a high centre of gravity, and the clodzilla4 race chassis is too pricey

CPE Predator - cheap enough, but the knurled bars aren't the best solution for the damper bottom mounts

CPE Terminator - seems to be more what i want, CNC machined lower links for better damper mounting

Thundertech Racing Rage - similar to Terminator

Does anyone have any views on these options, i know kaiser went with the Terminator after comtemplating the Rage.

And is there anyone in the UK (or mainleand Europe) selling any of these chassis - i'd rather not pay high shipping costs, import duty and VAT !

Many thanks

[backtomyroots]

Thundertech Rage Chassis is nice too:

http://www.thundertechracing.com/rage.htm

[kaiser]

you know where i stand david. but i must say that i have always wanted a dragoon. i have never seen one at any of the monster truck races so i have no idea how well the perform, but they sure are lovely.

thundertech's ripper is the better of their two chassis.

here's a link to really get you going, all the chassis are listed here:

http://www.clodparts.com/catagories/chassis.html

enjoy

some pics from the weekend:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...mp;#entry401205

[SteelRat]

Good man Percy! Modifying Clods is (imo) amongst the most fun you can have in RC. So many different options, and you can make your perfect RC car at no matter what speed you choose to run it.

Will look forward to seeing your progress

[Sayer]

Good man Percy! Modifying Clods is (imo) amongst the most fun you can have in RC. So many different options, and you can make your perfect RC car at no matter what speed you choose to run it.

Will look forward to seeing your progress

Whenever I see a modded Clod, one question always springs to mind "How is that still a Clodbuster?"

[SteelRat]

Good man Percy! Modifying Clods is (imo) amongst the most fun you can have in RC. So many different options, and you can make your perfect RC car at no matter what speed you choose to run it.

Will look forward to seeing your progress

Whenever I see a modded Clod, one question always springs to mind "How is that still a Clodbuster?"

One question sprang to mind when I read that: "Why does it matter?"

[Percymon]

Good man Percy! Modifying Clods is (imo) amongst the most fun you can have in RC. So many different options, and you can make your perfect RC car at no matter what speed you choose to run it.

Will look forward to seeing your progress

Whenever I see a modded Clod, one question always springs to mind "How is that still a Clodbuster?"

Well if all goes to plan mine will be a Clod Buster Buster :P

[TWINSET]

Don't forget the Gecko either; http://www.rcguy.com/category-s/24.htm

The disadvantage with some Clod chassis is they rely on clamps around the lower links to secure the shocks - At the cheapest, the 'clamps' are plastic P clips for serucing cables and not much cop for securing shocks.

Thundertech, GMade and RCGuy (Gecko) all have machined lower arms so the shocks bolt to the arms, not clamp them.

For bashing, secure shocks are kinda handy - for crawling it doesn't matter quite so much

The Dragoon you linked to is the GMade truck - no Clod bits are used at all on that one, the Dragoon chassis for Clod axles is here; http://www.junfac.com/shop/index.php?main_...ae1f6b5baefcaa4

Always go to Junfac for 'proper' GMade pricing, GMade's site usually shows RRP

This is a fairly old add now, might be worth a email; http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp?cid=94489

The Spider is a very bashable chassis

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/moviecomment.asp...667&uid=169

[kaiser]

cpe uses nice machined links now, very strong and easy to mount shocks to.

[TWINSET]

The Predator still uses their knurled links, machined links are an option part though

http://www.crawfordperformanceengineering....?products_id=50

It's well worth going for the machined links, the shocks can't slip then

Also, check what the chassis you get replaces; The Clodzilla II for instance still relies on you fitting the steering servo in the stock, mid-chassis position - to fit the servo on to the axles you either need to buy extra bits or mount the servo to the axle-tube braces.

The Clodzilla II is really only an aluminium version of the stock chassis - the shocks still mount to the axles in a similar way (making alternative servo placement a pain) and the battery still goes 'up top' whereas most other conversions now have the battery mounted right near the bottom of the chassis.

It's unclear on CPE's site whether all their chassis include the centre mount for attaching the top links to the gearboxes - it might be worth checking that too.

On the carbon fibre Terminator they mention it, but not on the aluminium version

[kaiser]

i just got an email from brett@cpe.

if you get the complete chassis kit (terminator i know for sure) you get the upper link mounts, bta steering w/axle mount servo, rear lock outs, body mounts, shock mounts and all hardware.

i should have asked him if the next batch of predators will have the machined lower links. they are a $50 upgrade for the predato at the moment.

terminators and predators are due back instock next week, weather permitting.

[TWINSET]

That's a pretty sweet deal then - the BTA is definitely worth a look as the Clod's a pretty poor steerer without.

[Sayer]

Whenever I see a modded Clod, one question always springs to mind "How is that still a Clodbuster?"

One question sprang to mind when I read that: "Why does it matter?"

Because it doesn't make any sense to say "I love the m-chassis, it's so moddable!" if the car I'm referring to is a Swift body mounted on a Lunchbox.

[kaiser]

if it has two clod axles it's a clodbuster in my book.

[SteelRat]

Because it doesn't make any sense to say "I love the m-chassis, it's so moddable!" if the car I'm referring to is a Swift body mounted on a Lunchbox.

But it makes a whole lot more sense to say "Clod" than "Clodbuster Axle Based Custom RC Vehicle"

And in any case, whether it makes any sense to you or not is irrelevant. It makes a whole lot of sense to the people that build them, run them and enjoy them and that my friend is the only thing that IS relevant.

if it has two clod axles it's a clodbuster in my book.

And mine.

Although frankly, I don't give a stuff what the label on it is, if it makes me grin like a fat man in a pie shop you could call it a Goat Molester as far as I'm concerned.

[TWINSET]

But it makes a whole lot more sense to say "Clod" than "Clodbuster Axle Based Custom RC Vehicle"

They used to be mod Clods, then the 'mod' just got forgotten.

If you bolt a chassis conversion for a clodbuster to a clodbuster, it's still a clodbuster, just with a different chassis.

But anyway, tell me more about this pie shop

[SteelRat]

They used to be mod Clods, then the 'mod' just got forgotten.

If you bolt a chassis conversion for a clodbuster to a clodbuster, it's still a clodbuster, just with a different chassis.

But anyway, tell me more about this pie shop

I daren't!

[Sayer]

But it makes a whole lot more sense to say "Clod" than "Clodbuster Axle Based Custom RC Vehicle"

And in any case, whether it makes any sense to you or not is irrelevant. It makes a whole lot of sense to the people that build them, run them and enjoy them and that my friend is the only thing that IS relevant.

And mine.

Although frankly, I don't give a stuff what the label on it is, if it makes me grin like a fat man in a pie shop you could call it a Goat Molester as far as I'm concerned.

Right. Fair enough. I've certainly been thoroughly told. Carry on with the pies and the grinning then.

Whenever I see a modded Clod, one question always springs to mind "How is that still a Clodbuster?"

Well if all goes to plan mine will be a Clod Buster Buster :D

lol nice

[Percymon]

The search is over, but the wait begins.

Done the deal with gordb on the Gmade Spider kit, shipping from Canada not the cheapest sadly so it'll be 3-6 weeks shipping.

Plenty of time to rebuild the gearboxes and make a start on repairing the body.

Thanks for all the suggestions and help both on the forum and by messages int he background.

Cheers guys.

[TWINSET]

Well done chap

If you've not chosen one yet, most of the Maxx size shells look good on a (modified) Clod (taste permitting )

The Spider comes with long and adjustable body posts, so pretty much anything will fit.

[Percymon]

Well done chap

If you've not chosen one yet, most of the Maxx size shells look good on a (modified) Clod (taste permitting )

The Spider comes with long and adjustable body posts, so pretty much anything will fit.

Hey mate it was your trawl back thru the classifieds that put me onto it.

Will have a pop repairing the body I have, before looking elsewhere. There are some nice hpi American pick up truck bodies I like but need to check dimensions.

[TWINSET]

There are some nice hpi American pick up truck bodies I like but need to check dimensions.

It might be worth checking the shells out in a store too if you can - HPI used to use quite thin lexan in comparison to Proline, so although their shells looked great, they were a lot weaker/thinner - especially in tight '3 way' corners like where running boards meet wheel arches and side panels.

Their Bronco is one of my faves; http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/7179/

[Percymon]

It might be worth checking the shells out in a store too if you can - HPI used to use quite thin lexan in comparison to Proline, so although their shells looked great, they were a lot weaker/thinner - especially in tight '3 way' corners like where running boards meet wheel arches and side panels.

Their Bronco is one of my faves; http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/7179/

HPI quote 'thick 0.040 inch" lexan for their bodies, but i've read people say some poiunts of their shells are extremely thin.

I really need to see some shells in the flesh as veen HPIs website for 1/8th bodies has listings for cars with 200mm wheelbase, and my 'Cloider' will be nearer 450mm !!

I like the Proline Baja shell (thank Clodparts logo for that one lol!), the HPI Bronco you suggested and three other HPIs..

The Ford F-100 pick-up..

and the Bounty hunter for all its graphics..

plus the Grave robber (lowers the overall vehicle height)..

I wish websites would quote length and width, plus distance from wheelarch centre to centre to assist in buying suitably sized shells. Something like the Baja shell with only half wheelarches allows a lot more scope for wheelbase.

I already have a NIP Monster Beetle shell, so i'll see how that compare to the original clod sheel to give me a feel for things.

[TWINSET]

The 0.040" is before they drag it over a mould - there's probably only 0.040 in the roof!

Proline use 0.060 for a lot of theirs.

Once you get down to the bottom of the HPI Rubicon, the lexan's like paper.

Given the articulation and possible shell fouling, it's unlikely many bodyshells will fit perfectly without a bit of trimming - They're all designed for trucks with 'buggy' suspension where the wheel moves up almost vertically.

If you look at my old Spider, although the shell was Maxx/Savage size, the rear arches went altogether along with the rear panels and the front flares had to go too;

The Ford F-100 pick-up..

I like Proline's more;

And it's not a Cloider, it's a Spod.

[SteelRat]

This is the nice thing about the Proline shells as well is that they give you the dimensions including the wheelbase. They also tend to come in one bit rather than lots of bits like HPIs. I will also echo TwinSets comment about how thick the Proline shells are as well. When you cut the body out of the mould, you're going to need more than just a craft knife, so if you do go down the Proline route, if you haven't already get yourself a decent set of lexan body scissors.

You mention the Proline Baja shell as well.. the SWB version of that fits rather well on the standard Clod - so that should give you an idea of Wheelbase.

A standard Tamiya MB shell has a wheelbase of about 240mm, the standard Clod one is about 285mm (from memory). Out of the box crawlers tend to be a little longer at 310-320mm.